idosubaru

As am I. Subaru head bolts are not TTY and need not be replaced if they’re in good condition (99% of the time they are and most of the 1% are old gen blown heads that have sat for 10 years) The reasons people are confused vary. Some think the angle torque spec, or Fel-Pro “requiring” them to be replaced, means they’re TTY. Or archaic approaches, unfamiliarity with Subaru’s, “better safe than sorry” thinking, it worked - therefore this anecdote must be codified natural law now.....it matters not - they do not need replaced.

Pandora's box discussion. Due to the functionality you mentioned it's possible to have two bald tires and two brand new ones on non-LSD rear diff subarus. install one new one up front and one new one on the rear...usually the opposite side rear - though that's for traction I presume and not differential reasons. there are tire shops in low economic areas that do it. The problem is the front driven wheel will be the small one - so you're already bald tires will wear faster than the new ones. But it can be done as a work around or to buy some time, etc. Yes they can tolerate mismatched tires *somewhat*....but it depends what you mean by "temporarily" and "mismatched" - do you mean slightly different tread depth, different brands, running a spare, or waaaaay different tire sizes? Many auto's use that functionality you reference, for the FWD fuse. They come stock with a FWD fuse holder from the factory that's empty. insert a fuse and you have FWD. The VDC's don't have this circuit but you're asking about MPT's. So yes it "can" tolerate it but it depends what you mean....how bad, why, what circumstances, how long - do you mean as-is tolerate, or do you mean with some effort? Force it into FWD or install a switch and run whatever tires you want. Which means you can also install your own switch/wiring to go from FWD to nominal ops to "locked". And for all of those reasons and more - it's generally simpler to just say - "buy mismatched tires". But there are options for those with some mechanical understanding or willing to ask and find out what they're options are. For those willing to learn - the hard part is knowing who to listen too. This is probably the best forum to do so - the others are full of inexperienced anecdotal commentary that's hard to navigate if you're unfamiliar. Most folks spouting off have never even looked inside a trans or repaired them or tried any mismatching tires and have actual data to go on. They're just regurgitating Subaru talking points - which is good for the general public. If you're asking these questions - you aren't the general public. From there it gets into a loooong discussion about nuance - how long, how different, does it matter, and most opinions are going off anecdotal reports or gut feelings with zero experience. There's an entire tribe of people who swear your trans will Little Boy if tires aren't matched perfectly, quote subaru spec's, and declare as if the laws of nature are written by subaru tech's that these mystical "engineers" designed it that way and it should never be questioned. And as a general one-size-fits-all rule - that has very strong merit. But there are options and the auto's can be forgiving. I've run tons of Subarus over a quarter century on mismatched tires and have never had issues. I wouldn't do it on modern EJ manuals, the older gen manual trans seem to almost never have issues, i've seen one potential case in 25 years. I've seen meticulously maintained low mileage one owner Subarus get torque bind. They're so old that tens or hundreds of thousands of rusty ones aren't worth the cost of 4 new tires and people routinely do wonky tire stuff to old rusty subaru's. they're just not posting about it and pontificating it all day long. they're just getting by day to day. and for all of that - the difference is striking between how many issues they incur (like zero - or not a signfiicantly greater than average amount) - compared to what internet lore might suggest. I'm pretty abusive to some of my mine - and i'm surprised how few of those in the general public like that which are all but ignored except as cheap daily drivers - never have isseus. There's no hard and fast rules but clearly they can be very forgiving in general - and they're very forgiving if you can pay a little attention.

This might not work or be the correct one but the process for extracting codes for yours might look something like this. Earlier trans have different procedures, so the process changes sometimes, but this might work for yours. So this is more of an illustration...but it might work. Either way, there's other info out there, this is just the first one I found. The ProcedureStarting condition: key off, headlight switch off.Steps 1 through 7 must be performed within 10 seconds.1. Turn key to ON position. This is the normal running position, the click just before starting, when all the lights on the dash come on, but before you twist to START. Don't start the engine!2. Within 3 seconds, turn the headlight switch ON.3. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times.4. Turn the headlight switch OFF.5. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times.6. Turn headlight swtich ON.7. Press Trip/Odometer button 4 times. At this point, the DTC display will begin.8. Turn headlight switch OFF. Not necessary for the procedure, but your display may be dimmed and hard to read in bright sunlight. Besides, why drain the battery?The DTCs for each module will display in order: ECM, TCM, ABSCM/VDCCM. Press the Trip/Odometer button to cycle between modules. The FSM states that the display will cycle between modules automatically every three seconds if the button is not pushed, but that did not happen in my car - I had to push the button to cycle the display.For each module, there are three display states:- Receiving DTC from module (blinking "P" or "C")- DTC detected & displayed ("P" or "C" followed by 4 digits)- No DTC found ("P" or "C" followed by "----")If there is a CAN (Controller Area Network) bus communication error, you will see only "----" in the display. Basically, that means that the network in your car is broken. That will need to be repaired before anything else can be done.

Correct -TCU codes aren't read by many OBDII scanners. Some Subarus around the 00-08 time frame have a procedure you can go through which makes the AT light flash the code. First slow flashes are 10's digits, next fast flashes are 1's digits. So 2 slow and 3 fast flashes are a 23. Do that immediately. Maybe you'll get lucky and see something obvious. You could also assess the dent location compared to schematics of components adjacent to that area under the pan. And/or test the circuits involved. Remove the pan and very carefully inspect all components under the pan - particularly by the area that's damaged. I think the 5EAT's don't have any exposed solenoids like the 4EAT, so you'll most likely be checking wiring and connectors for insulation damage, cracking, impingement, etc, and making sure the dent isn't right under the uptake for the trans fluid. "Small dent" is relative but often times I'd replace the pan. They're hard to repair and the long, thin mating surface lips are prone to deforming and not wanting to seal well when reinstalled, even when they're undamaged. But it's just a pan you'll figure it out. Unless a causative incident happened since purchase it's nearly guaranteed the sale and trans issues are related. Occams Razor, it's nearly certain. I've bought 50 Subaru's, helped many others buy one, and looked at zillions more..... But it also doesn't matter, we're looking forward not backwards.

2007 I thought was CANBUS? 99EJ22 is basically identical to a 99-04 SOHC EJ25 but with 2.2 liters. Has the same valve part numbers, intake manifold, etc.

1. pull the AT code. Maybe the 2008s can flash the code for you with no tools/scanner? just using dash lights. Look up that procedure, if that doesn’t work it’ll need scanned, get the code. 2. any current check engine lights? 3. check the trans pan for dents or signs of recent replacement. It doesn’t take much. I’ve seen them dented restricting fluid flow, or signs of removal only to find cracked solenoids underneath - they are very close to the pan. 4. check subaru website for TSBs or notices about 2008 trans issues. I’ve seen a 5EAT or two with valve body issues but I’m unsure of the symptoms or how to verify. Usually you’re looking at a trans swap. I’ve never seen good diagnostic or symptom specific identification for Subaru TCs so most people aren’t going to guess for that much labor or cost. That you just bought the vehicle suggests it was sold with known issues which is more likely to mean egregious issue over easy fix. But of course you want to rule out and diagnosis. The pre-CANBUS (before 2005) transmissions run in 3rd gear, locked 4WD, and no TC lock up if you unplug the trans harness or TCU. It’s a helpful test or band aid to drive awhile and get around some drivability issues. I drove an XT6 (first 4EAT) like that for a year, too much body rust to warrant repairing.

that's what I had in my head - the early ones had the 9 and they went smaller somewhere in the middle of the 00-04 generation. by this age, it should be checked in case the engine was ever replaced, which is very common. i have no idea how many EJ25 vehicles i know had the engine replaced - it's very common. when getting a used EJ25 it needs new timing gear due to being an interference engine and the oil pump might as well be resealed while it's apart, so it's basically zero effort to check it or replace it. have a 9mm on hand and return it if you don't need it.

can you take the mental ego or “gas mileage” hit, whatever it is you love about MTs when going to an AT? once you’re over that hump relax and get an automatic. If moving a 4” stick around is a necessity then you’re at least easily entertained. The automatics are far superior. offroading, loading trailers, reliability, drinking coffee. popping the clutch to jump start an MY is the only advantage to an MT. With the availability of tiny portable power packs that’s almost a nonissue. contrary to your comments the manuals have PITA clutch wear items, synchro failures, input shaft bearing failure, less forgiving 4WD vlsd failures, are commonly replaced instead of repaired, and they’re not easy to find which doesn’t help prices now or in the long run. Much of that is user wear but not all of it and all 20 year old cars means buying used transmissions and repairing/replacing with equally used ones. You mention autos being scrapped when repair is needed - Manuals get scrapped and swapped when they fail too. No one replaces synchros and many swap instead of repair input shaft bearings. The autos don’t fail enough to be a statistically viable concern. As said earlier age and history are the driving variables. 01-04 H6 were my go to car to help people get (and ive owned a few) for 10 years or more. Great cars. Now there’s just too much rust around here to consistently recommend local purchases. that being said EJ25 headgaskets aren’t hard to do. Widely available, you could buy a blown one and get a short block from Subaru for $2,200 or so with 36k 3 year warranty to start with a near new engine with warranty...(cue building movie music)...in front of an MT. I don’t know which years got which oil pumps but I doubt it’s a one year answer. probably more like Forster X got it but legacy Y did not....etc. you could look up the part numbers on a Subaru online parts store and click “what this fits” to see years/models

There are no DOHC EJ25s in those years. 99 was their last year. They don’t fit into 01+ easily and won’t run without modifications so that’s not a concern. the passengers and drivers side front timing covers have two HUGE circular impressions on them for DOHc. All SOhC are smaller and don’t. google timing cover pictures if you’re not familiar. but again you’ll never see one in 2000+ subarus anyway.

Better sockets grip better (tighter/more uniformly) and will be made with better materials. Impact sockets are preferred if you're going to be using them on an impact. If you want to use average sockets, they can work. I'd get impact grade14mm, 17mm, and 19mm impact grade sockets, extensions, and adapters, and the rest can be whatever you already have. My basic craftsman sockets have seen many serious rust battles in 15 years, sometimes with a 1,000 ft-lb impact. I've broken tons of adapters, extensions, and five 14,17, and 19mm sockets. Smaller sockets probably the bolt will shear/round off before the socket breaks. When they break now I replace any adapter/extension or 14mm+ with impact grade stuff. The cheap non-impact craftsman sockets have held up fine otherwise.

It's not like that. This isn't a "subaru problem", with a few minor caveats I'll get to in a moment. Rust is about exposure to caustic chemicals used all across the northeast, midwest, and a few areas out west (apparently yours, or your car came from somewhere else that did in the past). Year/make/model is not the right question to avoid rusty Subarus. That's why there are plenty of rust free old Subaru's out west and down south. There are a few variables like minor weather advantages, Subaru's are low to the ground so are closer to caustic chemicals and have tight unibody parts that hold them better/longer. And they are simply USED in the snow, and see caustic chemicals. Very few Subaru owners avoid snow or have a 2nd vehicle for winter driving like german car or garage queen truck/jeeps. But those aren't a big deal - it's mostly about exposure to caustic chemicals which can be avoided if you search down south and out west like Portland, Seattle, Colorado, and see 1980's and 90's Subaru's with zero rust. it doesn't matter. Simply put - avoid the 1996-1999 DOHC's and all the rest are about the same in terms of practically considering cooling/headgaskets. Ej251/253 - The differences were minor 10 years ago and the nail is on that coffin 20 years later due to age. The "EJ253 improved cooling" comment should be entirely ignored for a litany of reasons that I don't have time for and would require logically and statistically pointing out the absurdity of all the internet hypothesis, guesses, and anecdotal points over the decades that you'll see searching online. Factory installed gaskets usually leak externally so there's little chance of stranding events. They usually leak externally and get worse over 10's of thousands of mile. This means they aren't prone to multiple serious overheating events like the DOHC. In those terms, and due to age, all the post DOHC EJ25's are practically the same when considering buying 15-20 year old ones. If they leak - use a Subaru MLS gasket, torque specs, resurface the heads, clean the block properly, and make sure all bolts and threads are clean and lubricated when torquing.

the intake gaskets can also leak into the cylinders - that's far less problematic in some ways...although that pic looks really b ad. Depends what you mean and what are your goals (more original, more modern, cost, ease, minimal wiring, power). For most people, any engine they want is going to require wiring and fabrication so it's basically all the same. EJxx is the standard modern upgrade. In the US it's the 1990-1998 EJ22 is the preferred option. Easiest wiring, more reliable, significantly more power, readily available parts. A non-turbo would be the closest in wiring. that would be as close as you can get to "plug and play" with minimal wiring work but you'll still be looking at diagrams to ascertain differences. I've put a non-turbo EA82 into an EA82T XT Turbo and gotten it to run before with no wiring work at all.

Great, either one is a great fit then.

bolting the 99 heads to the 07 gives you newer block, new head gaskets, and simpler wiring. If it was a 98 or earlier, or you can find one, I'd go with an EJ22. A 2007 EJ25 has the 99 beat by 8 years which has merit compared to the issue prone 99 EJ22, and a 3 year only (99-01) engine. I feel like it's mostly a toss up but if that 07 forester is CANBUS or imobilizer ,it'll be a disaster trying to run it. So yeah the 99 will be way easier and plenty of power. Or if you wanted to cobble something together try to install the 99 wiring onto the 07 engine and just ignore the VVT stuff and find a work around for idle control and drive by wire (if equipped).

Is the bearing play causing excessive wear anywhere else? If it's early bearing failure and damage is only in the bearing itself....then yeah theoretically it should work if you can assemble the block back to original. If that wear results in play and wear on another component - that's where problems will arise. So investigate how that bearing is set up and what parts may be impacted and how you can test or perform some educated guess on that. But - it's never done. Bearings are rarely replaced as it is...not to mention any unique approach like this. If it is, it's going to be anecdotal, at best. And probably more like 3rd party, missing comparable information, etc. So it's impossible to get a good experience/data driven answer.

good luck nip!

Depends what you’re towing too. For most people choosing to tow they’re going to size it appropriately and a 4 will do fine. If you’re pushing weight/temp/grade limits, the same weight can pull like a parachute or smooth. Subarus are shorter than most trucks, tall loads can drag bad if they’re considerably higher than the vehicle. That’s not a big deal until you’re approaching or exceeding limits - weight/temp/grades.

Right on beast, that was just to clarify for anyone not following the thread. Carry on boss!

wild unlikely options: 97+ pistons may be higher compression, don’t know if they interchange, but if it’s bored that’s maybe off the table anyway shave heads or thin custom gasket - probably a bad idea due to piston protrusion

Yep, You’re right. I was answering your question about location - it’s easy to find. for replacement the dohc EJ25 is far more cramped than an EJ22. disconnecting the ancient plug can be tricky, dropping something down there is a time sucker.

It is. But this discussion is about which ECU to use, not engine. OP already has the engine.

Found these, first search, took 30 seconds: https://images.app.goo.gl/rWRZ1Zx73dhzDwJv5 https://images.app.goo.gl/c5EhBsFre8x9bBN1A

It’s super easy. Have a good flashlight handy. To the drivers side of the throttle body, straight down, the only thing with a 12mm bolt facing straight up. there are zillions of FSMs for free that show it and people have posted the image countless times.

Like I said earlier - no for a practical daily driver. EJ18s were indestructible reasonable gas mileage beasts since day 1. Theres no compelling reason to go out of your way. Us “purists” would put a little effort into the small improvements from an EJ22 intake/wiring since it’s easy at your starting point. It sounds like you really don’t care at all. I’m all for EJ22 wiring/ECU, it’s like having a modern house with standard construction verses a cabin with odd windows spacing doors and trim. but go with the EJ18 stuff and never look back. It’s minor and not a big deal. They have so few issues, if you did encounter something it would be minor (notwithstanding any disclaimer about 25 year old engines in general) Go look for “EJ18” issues - it’ll be a long and boring search as you find it all but impossible to find any frequent issues. Some of this is from them being statistically less common, but whatever they’re beasts of an engine for longevity and reliability.

It’s not fully seated. Remove the ball joint and hog out the top of the inside of the knuckle with a drill/stiff wire brush, small chisel/screwdriver so the ball joint can seat all the way to the top. Get any layered rust or debris out of there. Are the knuckle ears spread apart egregiously or cracked due to spreading them too wide? This is rare but happens.