idosubaru

OEM gasket, new hardware, clean mating surfaces and you're done. Install new Subaru OEM exhaust gasket with new OEM studs and/or exhaust nuts onto clean mating surfaces to achieve proper clamping force. if you just install new nuts, or don't install any new nuts/studs - chase all the reused studs/nuts with a tap/die set so they're all clean metal and you get good clamping force. address any studs that strip as needed. often times the nut just pulls the stud out with it and thus the stud/nut combo functions like a bolt. sometimes the studs strip the engine block. sometimes the nut is so rusted it just rounds off and won't come off. address each individual scenario as it occurs, there's no way to predict if it will or won't. use good 6 point sockets, do NOT touch those with 12 point sockets. they're the same thread and pitch as older Subaru's so you can do the same thing as mentioned many times - tap to that commonly used 7/16" or whatever it is exhaust stud size. i forget, i've got all the parts to do it though. tap to 7/16" (i think), bottom tap to the same, then install your new gear.

Simply put: 1. you can ignore it without issues if the engine is asymptomatic. 2. If you absolutely need the cruise control or to pass inspection, I would do "tiny converter" O2 sensor insert (not the spacer kind but the "tiny converter" kind. This is for example only I'm not recommending this one or this company but I would try it: https://www.racdyn-usa.com/PROD/130+10+10+012.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgZiku6DQ6wIVRr7ACh251gpFEAQYBiABEgIrdvD_BwE 3. A shop around rust areas should have torches available for extracting the sensor. They do get REALLY bad though with rust so it could be a lost cause. Can't tell without seeing it. 4. Subaru converter and be done with it 5. Get another car....might be a reasonable optionif rust is starting to eat away the exhaust and rear quarters. 6. Aftermarket exhaust - local shops can cut and weld in a conveter for $200 or less. But it'll be low grade and might not work or could fail in a year. More details. P0420 is mechanically *benign*. You can drive 100,000 more miles all day long without issues. This doesn't mean to ignore other issues. If you have any *other* existing issues like bad gas mileage, hesitation, cylinder misfires - those need fixed or addressed. If the vehicle has no other issues it'll run fine with the code and causes no long term issues. This can often be fixed without replacing the converter but it takes someone who's really knowledgeable to track it down without egregious guesswork. That person is not me nor does anyone who frequently posts on any subaru forum online typically have the time to walk someone through it. If there was I'd love to learn more effectively how to diagnose it. 1. Make sure you have all recalls taken care of...if any. 2: If you plan on keeping the car for awhile - consider doing routine maintenance on it now: replace the spark plugs, change the air filter, make sure there are absolutely no: a. vacuum leaks b. exhaust leaks c. check engine codes (other than the P0420).

It is a one bolt repair. Very easy. 22mm crank bolt, 12mm to adjust tension. Done. Many could literally do that repair with eyes closed. You’d have to be really unlucky to have issues with it. +1. Locktite is anecdotally, needlessly addressing previously mis-installed parts. Properly installed dry it’s never budging, just like they don’t from the factory.

Thanks for all your comments here. Got it. Did that need addressed due to the security system or the auto to manual swap?

That’s an incredible work around. Is the “interrupt relay” part of the inhibitor switch or a separate part?

Great, that's gotta feel good. So it did end up being the security system right?

Make sure your hoses or orings aren’t bad and sucking air. Used, rebuild it, or new. Avoid aftermarket completely. They’re terrible. I’ll install used ones all day before I buy aftermarket. anything 2004 and earlier is really easy to get a good used OEM pump. Get one from Lmdew above, he offered. 2005 are a pain in the €¥‘&)!! because Subaru OEM frequently have issues after 10-ish years and there are no rebuild kits for them.

I have an inhibitor switch from a 2002 H6 if you end up needing If neither will be pulling their deigned load due to be disconnected/unused then I wouldn’t expect this to be an issue. if they’re being tired together for a reference signal, and not pulling amps for the original designed circuit load, the size shouldn’t be indicative of the load any more. i haven’t followed all of those last replies related to the switch to know if that’s the case here or not.

I think the beeping can be disabled on these, but yes they beep and that’s the standard configuration if you don’t change it. If it was previously set to “no beep”, then maybe it would retain that. But if the key turns aren’t working..??? I’m unsure how that lock out functionality works to test it any further. This is definitely 2003 wiring side? 2005+ would be problematic but I’m sure you know that.

The engine doesn’t turn over at all? Or it turns over but doesn’t start? I think you’re saying it doesn’t turn over at all. check for voltage at the starter and the starter circuit in general. did you install more than just the engine and TCU wiring and maybe included the 2003 wiring for the stock alarm system? If a 2003 Outback lock out is triggered it won’t allow the engine to turn over. The remedy in a stock Outback is to put the key in the ignition and turn the key to ON (not start) then off, three times in a row. This is a stock functionality. typically one installs just the engine and ECU wiring so this is a non issue. but I’m just making sure you didn’t include more than that. its an OEM starter or aftermarket?

spacers would be easy and sounds like a good fit for avoiding strut work. Personally I’d look to see if I could easily find stiffer or slightly longer springs. if You can buy generic springs they can be inexpensive. I’ve done it from ground control before, numbchux talks about them a lot and that’s where I bought springs. Though last time I looked I couldn’t find their catalog I’ve seen before. someone has probably done it before and can tell you what length and rate spring to get.

Agree, I think my last reply should make sense. It’s more obvious with larger than stock wheels.

Good pic - looks like what a general disorder said, and exactly what happens with XT6s like I said earlier. The larger wheels make it more obvious. As the tire diameter increases the gap difference becomes a larger percentage of the total. A rough illustration: imagine the gap is 9” and 10”. The front is just over 10% more than the rear. Small percentage. If you increased tire diameter 8” then the gaps would be 1” and 2”, and the front is now 100% more.

Yeah I think you’re right. I hate to make assumptions but I don’t think that’s what you’re after. I lift most of mine and have helped folks do exactly what you’re asking - OB struts on 95-99 legacy sedans, but I’d guess it’s more than you want, it’s likely to look the same as now except too high instead of too low, there could be minor alignment issues due to the lift changing wheel location and cv axle wear due to higher angles with no body spacers of the OB. Not a big deal and us lifted folks wouldn’t flinch but it just doesn’t seem like the best solution in this case.

Okay so you are only interested in the height. Not struts at all. Got it. Id just install some spacers.

OBW struts in legacy is common. Its a 2” lift. You can find a picture and see what the rear clearance looks like.

How positive are you it’s sitting lower than jt should, or say, when you first got it? can you post a picture? although maybe it doesn’t matter if it’s sitting low? You want the rear raised, that’s the bottom line right? if so and you don’t need struts - could you go with the spacers? XTs have notably incongruent front to rear wheel arches too that do the same thing - can give appearances that it’s off particularly with suspension changes.

They raise it 2” in the rear and may look raked and increase CV angle. But yes 95-99 outback

I agree - though tolerate me for a moment - Isn’t it commonly discussed that there are some Imprezas that appear to sit lower than stock in the rear after 20 years. this has caused many “saggy butt” comments, threads, spacers and swaps over the years. What does that mean? I concur and am often the one replying not to replace springs - if these are original subaru springs on an average daily driver with no weird history then springs seem unlikely. I’ve seen bad Subaru rear springs cause a bump steer (don’t know the correct term), the rear of the car jerks to the side over bumps at high speeds, and they didn’t make the car sit noticeably lower. Those have also had a donkey load of miles over 200K and were treated like work trucks more than DDs. some legacys around that 95 era were recalled or had a special service call due to rusting springs that would fail early but that’s clearly not what’s going on here and I’m almost positive was front struts only.

It sounds like we might be conflating two topics here - needing new struts and raising the vehicle. Which is it or is it both? Are we sure ride height is due to struts? Usually it’s springs, could it be bushings? If it’s just raising the vehicle then new Subaru springs should do it. At that point most people would install new struts with new springs. Alternately you could try spacers. I’m not recommending these and often I think they’re like $30 but here’s an illustration which I think fits your vehicle: https://www.amazon.com/spacers-Subaru-FORESTER-IMPREZA-Leveling/dp/B076KWYF34 But if the struts and springs are a quarter century old I think I’d start there.

Presumably the car was level when new - so $70 KYB struts should get you right back to where you were. At most add in $30 for new Subaru springs. That’s $100 per side. aftermarket assemblies should be substantially different sizes than stock. So either way, if you’re looking for something other than stock - you could still need spacers or different springs. But that’s a different topic ive bought custom springs for a little more height. Ground control used to sell springs and they were not very expensive though I don’t recall the price. Some Subaru’s have readily available spacers too, which just slide onto the top do the strut for a small bump. I know they exist for the front and imagine they do for the rear The aftermarket strut options are tough. I’ve seen new mounts fail in a day, new mounts balloon upwards such that I wouldn’t trust them more than to limp around locally, and complete new assemblies float so bad I can’t believe anyone would tolerate it. I’m not very discerning in my “ride comfort” at all. I don’t even care how it rides, my roads are atrocious, gravel public roads, as long as it’s tolerable I’m happy - and some of the new units are awful. I’ve had people bring me their subarus after a local shop tossed on the complete Monroe or Gabriel or whatever assemblies. Hard to imagine they could drive that bad except that I’ve seen it. I guess there are some that are tolerable but there’s too many issues and I don’t trust longevity at all enough to try any out.

you can look up them up on a subaru part side and click "what this part fits" and it shows all the years/models. this is good to know since you may also want to cross reference rotors, pads, caliper brackets, etc.

If it's been done, it's not widely known or public so you'll have to do a little more legwork. That's why I gave you what I know about converting and retrofitting Subaru radiators. You won't find a highly visible or well known answer to your question so you'll need to do some legwork to find any. Predominantly new users ask the wrong questions and frequently are working on misdiagnosis or wrong assumptions, so we need to get to a point of understanding quickly or it's just a waste of time. We are experienced Subaru people and it wastes less time getting straight to the point. And we got there. You want aluminum and not just because your cousins friend suggested it as is normally the case. This isn't a big deal. Take the advice that's helpful and move on from the rest. It's a bit over the top to think anyone's objective goal or care is even remotely related to how you spend your money or what you do.

GD is straight to the point. hear him out, take notes, and listen to or not listen to him. Most of the time he is more right about Subaru's than anyone else you'll find online. He's like a bunch of us, and owned and knows all about $200 Subaru's. I promise he's not judging you, he's just been around hundreds or thousands of them and knows most people don't spend that much to maintain them or waste time upgrading, turbo charging or other wishful thinking type initiatives. if you're an outlier, and want to put forth the time and effort, then no big deal, he's not forcing you to do anything. Just move on to the next reply. I'd recommend aftermarket too, they're cheap, last a really long time, and aren't prone to damage unless the car is being constantly beat at which point i'm not sure i'd want to install a more expensive aluminum. I get it - i've looked into aluminum before too - it's a lot of time figuring what works, fabrication, etc - time that in the long run is better spent on other issues you'll encounter in the next 10 years. In general it's not common to install aluminum radiators in that era. 95-98 legacy radiators should all be the same - you can do a parts search online and see what vehicles a 95 radiator fits. that might help expand what you're looking for as you search for the closest fit you can find. The fan mounts, lower legs, and radiator hose locations and diameters change over time and are the parts that require modifications if you find one that physically fits in the location.

They won’t lock or unlock right? Your rear doors have cylinders to insert a key into? Maybe its a valet key and not a full key. If it is a valet key, Ask the dealer parts department if they can look up the key code via the VIN. Make sure you get someone experienced and not just a counter check out person. I haven’t done it in a long time but that was the standard way to do it and worked on all 90s Legacy/Impreza/outback/Forester/XTs. Or you’ll have to read the 4 digit code off the key cylinder in the passengers side door.