idosubaru

"new tires" can be dangerous if they're gauged by tread depth, which is relatively common for daily drivers. this car obviously sat - if the tires are 5+ years old then they need considered replacing immediately.

HAHAH. c'mon, list it on USMB?!

$3k-$5k. There are people who feign and sweat over low mileage. They aren’t members here That’s a EJ25D. But no matter, low mileage cars are really hard to value. They will usually sell for way more than people on this forum care to pay for cars. But it’s nothing special, it’s not even an SUS or something beyond average desirability. So yeah it’ll command more but not extravagant.

COPs, so no wires. haven’t checked for arcing. Maybe I should pull COPs and checks for oil leaks but there’s not a drop of oil anywhere and no CEL so I doubt it’s that. Im wondering if I can pull data, freeze frame, if that’s easy enough to do in a situation like this. Look at throttle, O2, etc.

Yes. OEM.

A tire is money and a tire shop will let you borrow or have one. Set the oil pan in the tire and use 2x lumber to prop up the side you’re working on.

How do you diagnose a light misfire with no check engine light? 2006 Tribeca 210,000 miles, new plugs and air filter. Constant light misfire. Runs and drives fine as a daily driver, seems to under perform a little which isn't ideal as it's my main tow vehicle.

"Dealers" don't use belt sanders. I didn't say that, you're conflating some facts. Remember, many dealers don't resurface heads routinely. The *machine shop* used a belt sander, not a dealership. The local Morgantown dealer uses this machine shop, but for other services, not heads. So the dealer isn't having heads routinely belt sanded there. I think the Morgantown dealer is one that doesn't resurface heads, so belt sanders aren't getting used on heads here and I don't think it's common. That's why I said to call and ask, so you know. I wouldn't check the block deck on an average daily driver needing routine headgasket work. Clean it appropriately. Removing the engine is the way to go. Doing it insitu is possible but only a good fit for a very small percentage of people and situations who need or want to avoid pulling an engine at all costs.

Sure thing. You’re as local as I’ll get on here! was in Parkersburg in March. won the state racquetball championships and topped the younger folks for #1on the radar at 144 mph. I dont know any mechanics or auto enthusiasts there or I’d ask a local. If you resurface them or watch as it’s done, the high and low spots are obvious as material comes off. It’s worth doing for such an expensive and labor intensive job on an engine prone to headgaskets issues. once you know a shop or have the flat surface and sand paper it’s really easy and quick and not hard to do. There are no timing concerns. Resurfacing of heads is completely normal and expected during the design phase of the engine, that’s why Subaru put limits and specs in the FSM from the factory. One resurface isn’t going to be OOL. if someone really wanted to skip the step I wouldn’t do the job personally, but I’d also say that many Subaru dealers haven’t been resurfacing EJ25 heads for decades and they don’t have many problems at all within their 12,000 mile 12 month shop warranty. It’s rare for them to have issues. I wouldn’t skip it but if someone was desperate too I’d tell them to at least check it for flatness if they can, ask a shop too and they have a reasonable chance of being okay, or as okay as Subaru dealers.

1. Call the highest rated local shop on facebook or google and ask them who does their head resurfacing. 2. Call the local subaru service or parts department (or other New dealerships) and ask them who does their machine shop work like resurfacing. But - the Subaru dealer in Morgantown uses a shop that will let any one on staff toss the heads on a belt sander and call it good machined below limits with fingernail gouges on them (I've posted pictures and measurements on here before, I'm not disgruntled consumer). So I just do the post apocalyptic method myself, it's super easy minus the learning curve of getting supplies. So, once you have that recommendation try to make sure they're using a preferred method for head resurfacing. Ask the machine shop what they use to resurface heads - a blanchard grinder or other preferred method should be used, not a belt sander. If they say a belt sander, call someone else. 3. Or call *machine shops* and ask if they'll resurface heads without pressure testing them. Just decline any warranty, it's useless anyway on those EJ heads, there's no way they're cracked or bad unless was severly abused and has melted timing covers, etc. If it was abused you're going to loose a bottom end bearing before any head issues arise anyway. Resurface is like $100 give or take. Many shops want to do a full on resurface, valve job, and pressure test for $500 -$750, you don't need that on these heads for the reasons already stated. Some shops that don't do a lot of Subaru's will want you to have it pressure tested. Don't think badly of them, sometimes they need CYA from bad customers. Or yeah - all of this pushes some people to do it yourself. My time is more valuable than driving, dropping off, waiting, driving again when I live far away from anything and don't have good options anyway.

That's a small area. I'd check into a local facebook group or google reviews with a mind towards subaru specific experience. Resurface the heads and use Subaru gaskets and you'll be in good shape. OEM timing kit, water pump, valve cover gaskets, cam seals, reseal the oil pump and you're done.

17 is spec for 95-99 Phase 1 and will work here for your Phase II 99 the FSM from Subaru is free all over the internet for that car. Get that and work off of it. There’s an angle reference for the pigtail they want to retain as well The numbers referenced are so close that theyll fall within the +/- range and average tools in old threads won’t be accurate anyway. Unless it’s freshly chased and cleaned block side threads and a new bolt, using lube, and a really good torque wrench that has been calibrated recently, and the angle of access and extensions/adapter interfaces aren’t reducing that number.....it’s not going to be exact anyway within the small range of those numbers posted. Do 18 and call it a day.

drill them out. you could try cutting down the length of that aluminum as far as possible and then just wedging a chisel into your cut and wailing on it until it brakes, or spreads open, that ear. Repair or replace afterwards. i see it's all hogged out - otherwise, i would keep drilling. i'd probably try a punch and a tiny bit to see if i can get it centered. or a large bit and use it to flatten out the central area as much as possible to then use a tiny bit. or just use a large bit and drill all the way down as-is and repair or replace the intake once you've got it all off. the alumnium will drill out far easier than the shaft of the bolt. high quality drill bits are key, i just ask a machinist friend to point me int he right direction and buy a set online, i don't buy stuff from local box stores for stuff this bad. i have one dedicated set of drill bits for situations like this that i don't use for anything else. keep the drill tips cool, lubricate them and give them many breaks if necessary to cool off. otherwise they'll heat up and dull quicker.

Yes it does fit. I've done it many times. Knock the tone ring off the Outback axle, it's not held on by anything except tight fit and old corrosion/rust/debris. Hammer, chisel/screw driver and tap the tone ring off. You never mention if you're talking about front or rear axles I'm surprised everyone missed this the first time you posted, sorry about that.

That’s the way to do it.

I've driven thousands of miles on noisy bearings at least 6 times. But it's also best to make an informed decision to do so, not just use one-size-fits-all blanket statements like "yes" or "no" to decide. How did you discover this? If these are Subaru bearings, the noise is light, hasn't increased in the past two weeks, and there's no play - then chances are heavily in your favor - like 90%+ you'll be fine. I've recorded the time between "onset of noise" to "bearing failure" and on multiple occassions it's been over 10,000 miles - usually around 12k-18k. I've driven thousands of miles including road trips many many times on loud bearings. I wouldn't do this on aftermarket bearings though, but knowing they're Subaru I'm not worried about it. You also know before hand - so what are your options if it starts to get worse (louder) while you're driving? If it starts to get louder and you still have 2,000 miles to go I wouldn't continue...etc. I'm not recommending it generally speaking, but but in my experience it can be done if an individual has a good bead on how bad it currently is, recent history, and a plan forward. if you absolutely had to do it, and have a game plan for keeping an "ear" on it, and had a back up plan, the chances are heavily in your favor that you could do it without major issues. The only hard part would be if you're half way - 1,250 miles and it was getting progressively louder really fast (which is highly unlikely to happen). If you recently left home or are close to your destination - and it starts You're in a rust free area of the PNW - find the used knuckle assemblies you need to complete this repair and buy them before you leave and end up in MI where no such thing exists for a vehicle that old. At which point - if you have a good rust free assembly - you might as well install it before you leave.

If you're draining the master cylinder - that's a sizable leak. First step is to simply go look under the vehicle for signs of fluid leaking. The obvious starting point may be what the mechanic said - rear wheel cylinders. He could have just been guessing, maybe he didn't pull the covers, I don't know - you'll want to confirm, but that's the first place to start. 1. pull the wheels and drum cover off and look for fluid around the wheel cylinder. Google image search or get a Brat FSM or diagram of the brakes so you know what you're looking at. Almost any 80's rear drum brake is going to look similar conceptually speaking and give you an idea of what to look for so it doesn't have to be the exact same year or even a Brat, you just need a Subaru rear drum brake, preferrably from the 80's. 2. Follow each brake line from each rear wheel starting at the wheel and working your way away from there. Follow each line and look for signs of rust or leakage. A rusty line will have scaled and layered rust which the brake fluid "soaks into" and it can get weak, loose brake pressure, and not drip onto the ground Sometimes there are real clear obvious guesses you can rule out first. Due to age and lack of information it's hard to guess here. It would be best to verify exactly where the leak is coming from and not guess. You're more than likely to get it wrong - like it looks like you were going to guess and replace the master cylinder which, at least with what I see now, doesn't seem to be leaking or the problem.

If the master cylinder is leaking, replace it. The title says "leaky master cylinder" and then discusses front caliper rebuilds, rear cylinders leaking.... If you already know what's leaking - replace it.

1990-1998 EJ22 are all equivalent. 90-96 are "better" but a 97-98 becomes equivalent if it has new Subaru OEM timing belt, pulley and tensioner. Don't use a 99+ Ej22. 1. If a 98 and earlier EJ22 isn't an option, or I wanted high miles and long use out of the engine (and couldn't find a low mileage/known good EJ22), I'd probably lean towards a JDM 2.0 engine. Use a US EJ25 intake manifold, flywheel, and ECU and it installs just like the 90's EJ's you're considering. All those EJ25 parts bolt right up to the JDM 2.0 and then it's all easy from there: https://jdmenginedirect.com/new-products/02-05-subaru-outback-20l-sohc-engine-motor-jdm-ej203-legacy-outback-forester-crydd-awlal 2. a complete car is another option - if they've been damaged they're a good candidate as it's known running/driving engine. 3. www.car-part.com for engines - search all legacy and impreza stuff from 1990-1998, they're all interchangeable and useable for your project. Avoid 99 and up EJ22's. 4. The owner of SuperiorImports in Portland is a member here and may have some EJ22, or other, engine options for you.

05-09 legacy have different top hats than outback, they have smaller top side spring holder. get top hats (strut mounts) to match and you should be golden. can you ask the company you bought them from? I might even have the top hats/mounts you need. They’re the smaller ones from a 05 legacy.

I’ve got a JDM EA82 block it’s just not worth enough to pull it. I’m sure you can find one if you look a little bit. I see them around from time to time.

I always thought they were interchangeable and I’m almost positive I’ve done it before. I’ve swapped a few of them but don’t recall paying attention to the years. All the 95-99 legacy units function the same, none have auto control or any exotic feature like that. I would guess the difference is minor like a lighted button was added or update but form factor and functionality is all the same.

Passengers side code is on the lock cylinder of every XT6 I’ve looked at. I think they needed removed to be read, it’s been awhile but I don’t think I could read the numbers without pulling it.

Fresh gas. Tank might need cleaned. New timing belts and regrease or replace timing pulleys. One of The pulleys are NLA. Plugs wires cap rotor air filter and make sure there’s no bugs or debris or mud dauber nests in it. 95-04 Legacy front struts. Keep the rear FWD XT6 or use any EA82 and you can dial the height in with whatever length coil spring you want. They’re a common size diameter. Get whatever length and spring rate you want. I have 10” and 200 pound I think and it sits above stock height. or email me and sell it to me.

I’ve done it on XTs which are EA vehicles. I’d use OEM gaskets. if all the exhaust nuts are rust welded onto the studs, and pull the studs out of the engine, it’ll be easy. Lol.