idosubaru

Very loud roar. - That’s a bad rear bearing. Fish tailing rear end at 40+ mph. Massive rear tire wear. Can’t tell if fishtailing is due to tires being bald or something else. Can bad rear diff bushings cause that or it’s probably alignment/suspension?

What vehicle is this for? Both sides are doing this or just one? if both then I’d wonder if the new bearings are wrong? damaged Or rusty splines on axle or inside hubs can cause the axle to hang internally. But if you were giving it “axle nut torque” I’d expect it to pull through. How much torque ?

These are so difficult. Is it possible to test continuity of each wire from that fuse? Need to look at the FSM wiring diagram for that. I would disconnect the light control sensor and AC control module and see if the car still is drivable. If so I’d drive it like that and see if it blows. But then you could get stranded again....which almost seems likely given the details you’ve given. I really hate to guess here because it needs to be diagnosed specifically. But those codes make it seem like the BIU or trans or engine harnesses. But it’s possible those codes were just artifacts from momentary spikes caused by the blowing fuse and not real codes. ***How often do you get codes - every time the fuse blows or just this time? 1, Rodent damage. I’ve seen chewed wires under seat carpeting that didn’t look like mice could get too. You can only find this by tracing each wire with a tester, unless the wires and damage are really easy to view. But then again - if it’s an inconsistent short you might not catch it. Two contributing factors I’ve seen: In urban areas - If car is parked in an area where mice and chipmunks are common in the parking this might be a clue. Or if the car has food crumbs in it from kids or pets which could attract mice. The chewed wiring I’ve seen were all parked in urban areas with chipmunks everywhere, I think they were running around while I worked on the vehicle, or parents with kids and years of food crumbs in the car. * ideally you trace each wire from the fuse and find which one is broken. Use the FSM wiring diagram to find the end of each wire that passes through the fuse. But if you have an intermittent short I’m not sure, electrical is one me my weaknesses but the few

I was thinking about like that, that’s why I replaced the driveshaft, I didn’t want that letting loose at highway speeds and it had a very light clunk to it, the wheel bearings weren’t hot or having play yet so they seemed unlikely to cut loose. I made it to my families house in Maryland. Will investigate a little tomorrow morning before I head home. Thanks for contacting me, it gave me confidence to keep going and test it out another hour and by then it wasn’t getting worse.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Subaru have play in the bearings. Maybe once and I’m forgetting. They’re always sneaky for me. Im not counting the ones with so much play they wander and the abs sensor is freaking out. they’re so bad there’s no reason to test. I’ll be checking it out tomorrow morning before I finish my trip.

Changes when I turn, might be the brand new wheel bearing.

I thought it would be awhile. a yard close by had a driveshaft and i swapped it in one hour. I backed the Tribeca up on a spare tire and that was enough room to work with no jack needed. Shaft - It slid rearward all the way out without removing the heat shield or exhaust. I unbolted one passengers side heat shield bolt, bent the corner down to get the carrier bearing bolt out. Maybe Tribeca has more room?

Kick a$$. Thanks. I think I’m good. A couple hundred miles and it’s getting no worse so I’m going to keep going. I’m about 30-40 minutes from your exit if things get worse in the next hour I’ll be calling and seeing if you’ve got a real jack to check wheel bearings and rear diff.

Well I swapped it in an hour which is quicker than I thought but it’s still there. Dang it. Bearing or rear diff I guess. it is really loud im going to drive an hour and see what happens. Lol.

got the shaft in place tightening bolts and hoping this fixes the issue Point to the seven sisters and wish me luck No fluid came out. That was Surprising but I did drive over the spare tire from the rear and angled the car so the rear is higher.

And how much fluid am I going to loose pulling the shaft? I think I’ll still have enough to drive to the closest store and top off right ?

ive got a raging roar getting louder fast, doubt I’m making it back from NH to WV like this. I think it’s the rear drive shaft. once it’s unbolted they rear will pry put somehow right? It’s unbolted at the flange but is in there tight and I haven’t gotten it out yet. Still removing two front carrier bearing.

Early models like 2011-2014. You can probably get a general idea by looking at Subarus extended CVT warranty, which was their response to CVT issues. Im not well versed but the little I know I recommend people aim for 2017+ if they’re looking for 2010+ vehicle.

I think it does have one. Why wouldn’t they have a lock up converter? Many many years ago someone from NZ or Aus said they installed an EJ 4EAT into and XT6 (Same trans) by repinning or swapping harnesses.

No.

pull off belt and with crank mark lined up rotate cams by hand . Do they rotate? Line up crank and cams and install belt. Verify they still line up after pulling tension. post pics of crank and cam marks to make sure they’re right.

You’re sort of juggling a few issues at once it seems - mixing tires, cost, and a shimmy. I understand that. As far as mixing tires I gave you what you need to know to do whatever you want. It’s not a big deal at all if you just pay a little bit of attention. There’s nothing to worry about, don’t let online doomsday preppers dissuade you. The general commentary about it is wise for the non mechanically inclined masses, but otherwise It’s practically irrelevant for those who dont mind paying attention and can follow logic.

Gotcha. I don't think it matters and wouldn't cause what you're probably seeing anyway but thought it would be good to get on the table since we're in this far. Good luck!

have you ever added Subaru coolant conditioner to this vehicle ? Heater cores on Subaru’s can usually be ignored in situations like yours and comments about them on Subaru’s are often anecdotal, incorrect, guesses. I’m almost positive the 100 times I’ve heard “.....the heater core.....” about diagnosing a Subaru has been 100% wrong. There are Subaru’s, like Tribecas, with heater cores that do clog up and cause lack of heat to either the drivers or passengers side, or both. They never overheat eventhough that have egregious internal heater core degradation. My guess is that At most it’s a symptom of hot inconsistent coolant flow patterns and characteristics dislodging debris internally and not a clue, or hint, to causation.

cram some qtip or absorbent sponge like material into the weep hole. If it’s saturated you know it’s emanating from there.

Yes like 4 digit grit body work stuff. Start with scotch brite pads. aftermarket cardboard gaskets suck here. Notoriously leak.

GD is right for General one size fits all recommendations. That’s best practice. Keep the newer ones - newer is better for winter and rain traction. That being said I do it all the time. If you care at all about snow or rain traction use the newest tires that haven’t sat outside I mounted on a vehicle exposed to the sun. Age and sunlight destroy the material compounds and degrade snow traction like flash paper. Don’t go by when you bought them or how old you think they are - There’s a 4 digit date stamp on the sides of tires that tell when they were manufactured. Go by that. That aside - these older Subaru’s wear quicker on the front tires. Measure disasters (or tread depth if they’re all the same model tire) and install the two largest circumference tires up front and they’ll wear down to match the rears. No big deal. if you’re worried about it run the two larger ones up front in FWD, rotate the front two tires to wear down via the driven wheel if needed and they’ll wear down right to the rear diameters and no worries about it. That’s just a waste of time for me though but if you’re worried it’s an easy remedy.

That doesn’t seem like great news, If it’s really bad it’s worth noting. How did the gaskets fail the first time - what all symptoms presented ? Keep in mind it’s a 16 year old overflow bottle with normal old age ambient grime on the inner walls that’s never (or once maybe) been cleaned and is now exchanging overheating coolant with the radiator daily. I would be careful to assume too much unless it’s egregious or I can see and diagnosis the car history and amount in person.

If it's coming from the weep hole - the pump needs replaced. If it's from the gasket - clean the engine side surface and water pump surface REALLY GOOD - green scotch brite pads, i'll even use very light grit sand paper on some, but you shouldn't do that unless you're very familiar with subaru/aluminum engine work like this. install a Subaru OEM gasket and make sure all the bolt holes and bolts are clean. Buy a Subaru or AISIN water pump

Headgaskets. Resurface the heads and make sure all the head bolts and head bolt holes are clean and lubricated during assembly.