idosubaru

I wouldn't use it if the car is consuming any oil, or you haven't driven it long enough yet to know. I'm not a oil snob freakazoid so I don't get all into the details over that trashy discussion - but my limited understanding is that Rotella is great oil but the different formulation is bad for converters in gas engines that consume oil. I'm not sure when the cutoff is for the oil consuming control rings of the FB engine in your car, but you're really close to it and I'm almost positive I've heard of 2019's consuming oil. If it's a new to you car I'd get the oil and maybe wait a few oil changes to make sure it's not consuming any oil.

what he said - FP headgaskets, the rest from dealer. the FP kit won't have the reinforced metal orings for the lower corner of the cam carrier, or none that I've ever seen have it anyway. intake manifold, tstat, water pump, exhaust are all better quality from dealer. sometimes I might use FP valve cover gaskets but mostly just because if they do fail again it's just a minor oil leak and they're easy to replace. i don't want that risk or work load for intake mani or coolant.

Ask the seller for one. They might have more incentive than you to have it on hand. This won't work for most buyers - but I could pull this off most of the time. If I was "probably picking up Tuesday" i'd be nearly 100% sure I'm getting it - as long as it hasn't been wrecked or have more rust than I anticipate from pictures/discussion. I'd say something like....I'll buy it if it has no more rust than I expect and hasn't been in an accident - could you get a carfax report and I'll reimburse you for it if it hasn't been wrecked or lived in a rust state?" Tell them exactly why you want it. I've bought like 50 subarus and helped people buy like a couple dozen others, so i've got a lot of experience. I also buy almost ever car I go look at - I don't have time to window shop and screw around, so I'm pretty serious and people get that when I talk to them. I'm up front, not going to lowball (I usually am already looking for lower priced vehicles and I'm willing to throw cash and even add more $$$ to their asking price sometimes if I want), and that makes a difference in how I communicate. Anyway - I'm just saying don't expect them to bite but I'd be able to get them to agree most of the time just based on my confidence and doing this many times. I know what people do and don't want to hear. Also google the VIN number and see if it's registers under anywhere strange - auctions, etc. I also concur with GD's response - if you don't find a way to get a carfax quick, just pay for it. You're time can't be that invaluable if you're buying a 5 digit car. If you're unsure about buying the car then buy one of those "packages" that allows you to VIN search a few vehicles. If you're fairly certain you're going to buy the car - then pay for the carfax. I've used carfax lots of times. Some times I do, sometimes I don't it just depends what i'm buying, from who, where, price point, etc. For most people though - just buy it. Looking at a 5 digit car and commensurate maintenance over it's lifetime and trying to save pocket change isn't really worth the time.

Yep just have to be mindful of what you’re doing, not flippant about it. Ive done the same with stuck wheels. Loosen lugs and drive 100 feet. Done.

XT6 is on Reddit, well I have seen everything. didn’t look at the pic but think that one is just clip in if it’s the small front corner light. Been awhile though so I could be wrong.

Thanks for followed up. Good to know and have for the next person. If the dust shields aren’t bent, it’s due to rust on the rotors. Hitting them with an angle grinder or Demel will fix it. Or Turning the rotors will fix this as well. do that and high quality OEM originals often will last the life of the car. I’ve done it with a Dremel and angle grinder more as a test to isolate where it happens. Not worth the time unless you’re a DIY minimalist purist, but I wanted to leave and isolate exactly what the cause was. Now I just look at those adjacent ridge and inner area right up where the edge of the pad will touch to assess and turn or replace them like you did. I at least learned how to replace only problematic rotors and not all of them for no reason. The rotors get rust outside of the brake pad contact area. Like the clean area wiped by the pads stays clear. Just on the inside of this and just on the outside edge of the rotor will have a ridge of rust - sometimes not a very big one. some minor change (someone working around the area, new pads, dirty or tweaked clips) can cause the pads to start just nipping at the edge of that rust and causing a grind noise. Sometimes only when going backwards. And this can be caused just by new pads having a slightly different shape or rotor contact due to the clips same with inside parking shoes though they’re a little less prone to rust due to less exposure.

Those are later EJ25's. you want the 610 gasket: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Engine-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Top-End-Engine-Gasket/49500367/11044AA610.html

The 610 EJ25D headgasket is MLS - use that, resurface heads, clean surfaces, and clean and lube head bolts. Nifty on the dual port. Ours were 90-95 only, and all EJ25's of course.

I'd try to move along from that car as quickly as possible and not put much effort into it. Or carefully inspect it - post pictures underneath for us to guage how bad it is. I buy my cars from out west and south just to save asinine hours of dealing with sheared bolts, rusty parts, and more work. In the past few years my daily drivers have come from Florida, Georgia, California, Texas, and Florida again. I rarely have to use my torch any more and I haven't drilled out a bolt in years - it's glorious! The oil leaking headgaskets can drive a long time and slowly get worse. When the factory original gasket leaks oil they almost never overheat - they're just going to keep leaking more and more oil over time. Since yours has been replaced, that increases the odds of an overheating event, but usually it's just oil and maybe there's a chance it was never replaced to begin with. It's not hard for "valve cover" to upgrade to "headgasket" through 3rd party, circumstantial, buyer/seller conversations by the time a car is sold.

He means ozone - that's exactly the ticket for what he needs.

Also think about it in reverse instead - what does the car need? The engine/trans assembly needs dropped - engine crossmember, trans mount, pitch rod, radius rod #7 looks like it would be a good candidate for sliding between the engine crossmember and body.

Stereo is possible culprit for dash - who knows what funky wiring is going on. Power the window and see if it moves. Need to find out if it’s the switch or motor. You can access the window motor wiring at the plug between the door and body frame, pull the rubber bolt and plug out there and give it power. Need the wiring diagram. For that matter just follow the FSM trouble shooting for a nonworking window. FSMs are widely available free online. It would also have the replacement instructions if needed I hate replacing Subaru window motors, used doors are so cheap ive found a color matched door and swapped it instead multiple times. Lol.

If it doesn’t have a check engine light and gas mileage is not low, then it may be normal. Is the check engine light on? Gas mileage might be hard to know on a new car or if it’s not used on long consistent drives. Plugs, wires and air filter should be tested or replaced. Are they good? Those engines usually have 30,000 mile plugs so there’s a good chance they’re old. NGK is best for plugs or wires on that engine That’s a small engine we didn’t get here in the US so none of us would have experience with it specifically. But it’s probably nearly identical to an EJ18 we got in the same vehicle. They aren’t fast, are often considered underpowered, and they’re larger than yours. So depending what vehicles you’re coming from it may feel slow.

You’re on it. Install all new Subaru pulleys, tensioner and belt. New Subaru water pump and thermostat isn’t a terrible idea but those modern EJs aren’t prone to leaking even at high miles so they can be skipped. But at 10 years old and next change being 250,000...the original isn’t young. FSMs online as she stated in last post.

Great - that’s perfect. I’m going to assume your 90-94 engine is the same as our 90-94. Here’s the easy way for you: Bolt your EJ22 heads to the EJ25D block and then use your EJ22 intake manifold. It’ll be as if nothing changed. It’ll bolt right in, no wiring, no ECU needed and you’ll have new headgaskets (EJ25D headgaskets - match the gasket to the block). If you wanted to run the entire EJ25D engine and not swap heads then you would look into simply installing your EJ22 wiring harness onto the EJ25 intake manifold. You can do this with 95-98 EJ22s but I’m not sure about 90-94s. when swapping a 95-98 EJ22 and EJ25D you swap the entire engine - plug and play compatible. The wiring connectors are identical. You can’t swap manifolds as the EJ22 doesn’t fit onto the EJ25D. But there’s no need as the wiring is plug and play anyway. But this also means you can’t just bolt your 90-94 manifold onto the EJ25D. Hence you’d have to see if you can swap your harness onto the 25 manifold. the 90-94 intake manifolds are the same bolt pattern as 95-98 EJ22 so they’re interchangeable physically, But the electronics are different.

Thanks. I try to avoid videos so I probably wouldn’t have found that. I’ve looked up rack rebuild write ups. The best one is a good early generation legacy specific write up a guy did that would be very similar, if not essentially identical to, the xt6. XT racks can be bought remanned for like $80 on eBay or rockAuto sometimes. I bought one a year or two ago. Worked fine but I’d rather have a resealed OEM XT6 rack.

Thanks, I knew you were in no mans land sometimes, so I'm not surprised. I've never heard of shops doing it here, most are large scale operations which pose a few speed bumps but yeah I'm sure some place out there has done it.

Would you be able to tell me about this shop? Like could I mail them a rack to rebuild for an XT6? Yes, I've been daily driving XT's since 1992....(good grief that sounds terrible). My current one I lifted in the late fall and it needs some tweaks, but I'm not too worried about driving it with the amount of salt they've got all over the roads right now.

No - that's a terrible way to look at it if you're just asking which engine swap to do - EJ25D or EJ251. For an EJ25D you simply install the EJ25D and EJ25 ECU - they're plug and play compatible (caveats in last reply because you haven't given us enough info) For an EJ251 you'd need hours of wiring work and splicing. So the EJ25D "wiring" and "ECU" work would take 15 minutes....the EJ251 would take 15 hours. Completely different orders of magnitude.

No - you're conflating a lot of different variables and ideas that don't mix. No one knows what you're trying to do and you're mixing up frankenmotor verses engine swap verses piston swap information. Let us ASSUME you have the US 95-98 style EJ22: Remove it and install the EJ25D. Done - it'll run perfectly fine. People do it all the time. You may or may not need a different manifold and minor EGR tweak but we can't answer that until we know what motor you have..."EJ22E" isn't enough. Which one? If you wanted the EJ25D ECU - remove the EJ22 ECU and plug in an EJ25D ECU. The wiring is the same and they're plug and play compatible. No big deal. But I've done it and noticed zero difference in 160,000+ kilometers of using various ones. It's a complete waste of time for me. If you're doing a frakenmotor then maybe the compression changes things (depending what you do), but people install frankenmotors all the time without issues and without messing with engine management or wiring - it's commonplace. And they run fine and they aren't installing standalones. GD is also installing stand alone power management and doing huge engine builds. So sure, compared to NASA the stock ECU is lower grade. For your purposes - it's probably worth looking into what other DIY folks are doing verses 5 digit budgets.

Good. Yeah the rack rebuild looks like a nightmare. I would like to do it as I have a few irreplaceable XT6 racks I’d like to seal up. But I’ve avoided it so far, disassembly looks miserable.

checking heater hoses first would be a good data point just knowing you’ve got hot coolant on both sides. Correct - they can vary somewhat when they clog but it’s not as binary as you describe, waxes and wanes in intensity more than on/off and can even vary from passenger to drivers side. If yours is on and off variability then yeah that’s electronic and like I said I have only sent that on Tribecas. Yours sounds electronic as GD said and you guessed. One of my best friends has an 06 and immediately went to JDM and aftermarket option like GD said. He hates working on cars and figured it all out himself. So it should be easy.

Go to Subaru and buy an alternator. That year happens to be like $85 from Subaru instead of the normal $300-$600. Don’t buy the parts store garbage no matter how many warranty, brand, employee, or guarantee claims they have.

That’s actually really common and usually not an improper installation. I have no idea how many of those I’ve seen with the same pinched smaller circular passage of that gasket. I’ve probably got some old ones laying in my garage and we could google images of the same. Im unsure what causes it but Ive suspected inconsistent mating surface clamping force between the pump body and engine block which allows that portion of the gasket to get sucked in. keep driving it and the new gasket has a good chance of doing the same thing. If you don’t have any ticking then this is probably a nonissue. Besides ticking the pumps are robust. high mileage or warn engines will have internal wear influencing oil supply which won’t be remedied at the pump.

No heat as a stand alone symptom points to control unit or clogged heater core. Those 06 controls are a bit convoluted. Are both heater core hoses in the engine bay hot? Are the control unit functions all working properly - display, temps, and does it properly change from feet to vent to defrost airflow positions, etc...? Can you hear the blend door moving when you switch HVAC output positions. Some 06+ era Subaru’s would have lack of heat due to internal coatings clogging the heater core. It may have only been Tribecas but it’s worth looking into. The solution is to flush the heater core or replace it.