idosubaru

Are you wanting to just swap in an EJ25 block in place for an EJ22 and retain the EJ22 heads intake and ECU? If so - yes you’re good. If you’re wanting to use the EJ25D manifold then this is more nuanced. In the US the EJ25D manifold is plug and play into 1995-1998 EJ22s but not 1990-1994 just because the connectors are different. you might want to be a little more clear what you’re doing before I lead you astray!!

Yes. All day long. I’ve swapped a bunch of Phase I EJ22 and EJ25 ECUs and they all perform identically with exactly the same long term gas mileage.

It’s not the fuel filter. Dragging brakes, CTS, plugs/wires/air filter, check engine light issue...? The CTS (coolant temp sensor) is the connector and sensor right by the thermostat housing. They get corroded and are problematic all the time on XT6’s. All the time. Like I have no clue how many bad ones I’ve seen. If it’s bad, the connector usually needs replaced. I’ve even just soldered each wire directly to the coolant temp sensor terminals. Install little clips so you have a pigtail to disconnect if needed. Or get a new fuel injector connector (there’s a generic one that’s identical and fits) and splice it in place. You can try cleaning it all up it with sand paper or files but it’s a go of work for low grade results. Also take note if the corrosion goes up the wire - sometimes it can go many inches up inside the wiring insulation.

You know and are perceptive. You owned it most (all?) of its life that’s a big plus. and you know to be perceptive and not put off anything. like that radiator. Normal average repair for you could have been a $5k failure for someone who limps, ignores, or gets a low grade shop/ repair, or buys a used car that had those things already happen. they can be reliable but they’re unforgiving so lack of attention and familiarity is a huge cost.

The laws of physics and math dictate turbos have to be less reliable just based on them having more parts than non turbos. more hoses clamps bearings seals orings gaskets... Add in the additional heat which taxes the coolant and oil for the engine and that makes them also far less forgiving when they do have issues. A leak in a nonturbo means a $300 seal or hose replacement and fluid top off. In a turbo that could easily quickly turn into a 4 digit engine replacement real quick. Great cars but know what you’re getting. Ideally get it new or buy a used one with a blown engine and have GD build your new engine and turbocharger. A 10 year old used one will be a gamble.

Yeah boss, thanks for the feedback. A Subaru supplier sounds ideal, those aren’t widely known as easy to install perfect fitting solutions. A Subaru specified supplier sounds good. for specific info post the brand of the chains you have and your current tire sizes. Maybe the width is wrong or the chains have overly generic “wheel size”, etc.

Yes sorry to hear about mom. It’s very hard to predict pricing on ultra low mileage Subaru’s like that particularly if they’re not a brat or wagon or 4WD, where most of the demand is. Toss it up for for sale on Subaru forums or sell it at auction

I’d scour around for JDM if you can find one. Are they completely nonexistent? Call them and ask? There’s a handful of JDM Subaru importers they shouldn’t be hard to find - eBay, google, etc.

What does a leak have to do with this? If you’re concerned about leaks that’s a separate topic. the point is: 1. You’re missing an oring 2. You’re concerned about oil pressure Lack of leakage seems immaterial to those two points. Not all orings prevent external leakage - some seal components internally Those gauges read notoriously low - some of the owners manuals indicate this. I realize you tested it at one point - that doesn’t mean the sender or gauge are as accurate now as they were. Maybe they are. Maybe they aren’t. But it’s not far fetched to expect a 30 year old engine to not be factory new, particularly with known issues. I don’t know what that missing oring does. my guess has always been: very little. but you suspect issues after working on the oil pump and it’s missing an oring. Seems logical to find out what that orings does, Ask about it and/or replace it while verifying the other components. The FSM also specs sealant at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock areas where the oil pump rests against the block halves junction.

Enjoy the drivable XT! I guess you’ve already diagnosed it but the power steering rack side shaft seals are usually the cause of leaks.

Its shown adjacent to the oil pump rotor: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Engine-Oil-Pump-Seal-O-RingSeal-for-Oil-Pump/49287738/806945020.html

I have seen an SVX or two for sale in the last year locally and see them ocassionally. Besides mine I haven’t seen an XT6 in well over 10 years. That being said SVX availability is getting worse by the day (but so are any older Subaru’s including XT6).

The SVX is a nice ride - it’ll make up for some of the small size by its comfortable seats and ride. Parts are difficult at times but certainly better than XT6s, some things are EJ compatible, reliable engine, robust 4EAT trans and they have a much more modern engine design and control overall. Almost an 80s look with less 80s baggage.

For standard fare, KYB is the go to Subaru strut and mounts. Others suck trash. And I’m not even that picky, my potholed unmaintained roads don’t allow being picky. If you’re looking for performance or coil overs that’s beyond my experience and familiarity.

Aren’t there 3 on EA82s? Shaft seal, Mickey Mouse gasket and an oring? XT6 only have the shaft seal and Mickey Mouse gasket but people accustomed to EAs used to toss the oring on the XT6 too because the pumps look the same.

What he said - Read the owners manual. Read the chain directions and sizing carefully. Some are not easy to install -if they’re supposed to fit they probably do if you read the directions and labels correctly. My first guess is you gave up too soon - it’s easy to do with chains or even “chains”. If you have significant snow needs then chains are kind of a band aid - best for temporary emergency use not as a real solution to winter needs. 1. Studded snow tires 2. Nokian or X Ice snow tires 3. Name brand All seasons with the highest snow ratings. 4. Low grade and even average tires SUCK for long term snow use. Average snow tires or all seasons degrade quickly - by year 3 they don’t perform as well as the Nokians or XIce....and that’s if they’re even really good in the snow to begin with.

Dealers have specialists that come in every week for minor body repair of used car inventory so they should have an already existing option to address yours. If you have to check the car every time you drop it off for service, documenting with a video or photos would help. if the area/shop are that bad then more than likely they also have customers who misrepresent their cars and blame the shop for things the shop didn’t do. I’m saying this from experience - for all the crying about untrustworthy shops, customers can be horrible - demanding, lying, litigious.. would be good to have evidence so you’re not lumped in with shady customers. Whenever I have an issue I want to as quickly as possible not have them associate me with one of those people.

How do you know they caused the scratches?

Don’t forget to review the fuel pump sock, fuel filter, as well as fuel pressure regulator and injectors (if they can clog) to ensure all lines from tank to engine are clean.

Great. Look forward to that first test drive report. Well done tracking this down. Very interesting how intermittent the gas tank debris was. I have a feeling sheared and stripped bolts would greet us folks in rust prone areas if we messed with gas tanks. And we wouldn’t want to be torching tight spots next to a gas tank!

Awesome!!!! You definitely found the issue. Well done. You deserve a cookie! that’s a brutal job to pull the tank - how was it? Do you think the accident that caused the rear quarter damage caused the tank damage? Do you think the original burnt ECU is related or just an artifact of sitting, someone previously working on it? So You found wiring tampered with, body work, and a burnt ECU...

It’s an EA82 fuel pump. So what you’re asking is probably configured exactly like an EA82 with minor XT specific geometric differences.

Excellent! That nose up/nose down sounds telling if it's repeatable and happens the same way every time like you said. Not sure what it means, but good info. Describe debris? I've changed a ton of old Subaru fuel filters and they'll always spill out perfectly clean gas with no signs of debris or dirt at all, not to even mention a clog. I've seen so many like this over 25 years I question the efficacy of replacing them and have significantly cut back how often I do so. I'm interested in what you saw. What about the fuel sock on the original fuel pump you pulled - on the intake is a small plastic screen cap, did that have anything on it? I've equally never seen them have anything on them either.

that's what I was thinking but I don't know for sure or have anything to back it up.

EA81 wagons are nifty. After that I’m done with wagons except newer ones.