idosubaru

if Maine = california then you're hosed if Maine = WV then no one cares.

right on mike, i wasn't trying to start another one of those threads , i've talked to him before off-line about legacy's, EJ's when he bought this one.

what's wrong with the knuckle? borrow, rent, or buy a pickle fork. good chance the ball joint won't come out without a wrestling match without one. they make a 30 second step out of a potential 2 hour debacle. i'll post a link to this in the subaruxt.com forum, there's some alabama guys and the one has some parts i think.

that's exactly what i was talking about. yes the engine will come "up" a couple inches that way. unbolt the rear trans mount from the car too so the engine can "rock" up while the trans "rocks" down so to speak. sounds to me like you're going to have enough room to pull it off without yanking the motor. yes - quality left handed drill bits are hard to find. i got a set once but they sucked, can't recall where but they didn't last at all. talked to a friend that's a machinist and he said order them online, but that's not very time friendly i realize. if you can start center though they will work. you drill with a small bit first to try and keep it centered. once that's started, move up another size. once you get close to the diameter of the bolt it will spin out, it's awesome. use lots of lubricant and keep the drill bit cool, it'll last much longer. just the heating and cooling alone (metal expands with heating) can help break it loose, that's why i say drill, cool down, drill, cool down. that will give it a chance to spin out while cool and not heated (expanded). good luck - you've had some brutal fortune as of yet.

given the conditions and circumstances it seems like it would be wise to just replace the ball joint? do you need to specify which side? there's a few in alabama: Arley 1-800-231-2768 Calera 1-800-884-0105 $35 griffin GA 1-866-233-3881

the SUS wasn't offered in 2002, so do you mean a 1999 SUS or a 2002 XYZ? SUS was only in 1999, except a few SUS in 1998 in new england only, so maybe there is a statistical sway for the NE states. although by now i'd think enough in the NE have rusted out that the population distribution is the same nationwide. :lol: the SUS's really do look sharp. they're all EJ25's and all come in automatic only. they are rare and hard to find a good deal on, but they also pop up from time to time, so keep your eye out if you want one cheap. you can also "make one" so to speak if you had the desire. by another legacy and paint the bottom two tone stripe on it and you've got an SUS look. this greatly expands your years from one and a third to 95-99 and multiple models. you can swap trunk lids and hoods to get the scoop but the GT already has both. or OBW bumper on the SUS. i think i started a thread about "making" an SUS out of my legacy. never did it though, ended up hitting 3 deer in it and repaired it but just not worth all that work now.

that's the usual lower end failure mode. there's a couple folks on here that have seen a lot of this that could comment, maybe they'll show up. if you're just guessing on the out of round stuff then it's probably likely that won't be the case and a standard rebuild will suffice.

i also noticed a ground point centrally located on the fire wall just behind the throttle body i thought on my 02. but that's newer and i'm not sure what they're grounds for.

do not use an EZ out. reread the northwets comments on them. they're terrible excuses for a tool. wow, this really stinks you got stuck with this. i'd wing it and try to remove it with the engine in the car. it's a risky proposition though but i wouldn't be too bent on replacing an EA82 if i had to. depending what it looked like i'd get a right angle drill and work on it that way given the location you said it's in. you could unbolt that sides motor mount and probably get the engine to tilt a little bit further up too. you can also get right angle drill attachments to put in any regular drill, but the actual right angle drills are nice. i'd start with the left handed drill bits. drill some then let it set, then drill some more. the heating up/expanding contracting may help it break free. quality left handed drill bits are hard to find but great tools for stuff like this. pulling the motor is the better option, it's just a long one.

nice hit, report back in a while if you think about it and let us know it's fixed for sure or you drove it off a cliff. i'd never heard of that one before. glad you figured it out, that's tricky. makes me want to clean my grounds.

98-ish era OBW.

the fuel pumps aren't really insulated acoustically at all and external, so they typically are louder than other cars that are in the tank, etc....though i'd expect a new one to be relatively quiet?

that's the procedure for pulling the AT codes right? ah, too late, i'm in maryland until after christmas.

sure the blocks are toast? maybe it's something else? if engines are hard to find i'd see if you expand available motors - are EA61, EA81, EA82's easily bolted in place as well?

guy i know had that run around this summer. had it worked on 2 or 3 times at huge expenses at a shop and still had issues with the clutch. brought it to me and i declined to dive into it not having any clue what they did or didn't do and why it kept having to come out, i was worried the trans was hosed or i wouldn't be able to figure out what the problems were. he had the clutch replaced *again* and it's been fine.

what vehicle? GL hatches and wagons have different engines - i'm assuming yours came stock with a turbo so it must be a wagon and EA82T? not all subaru's have knock sensors. someone here will know for sure if a 87 GL has one. it's located under the throttle body-ish, usually easiest to access from the passengers side, only sensor under there that threads into the top of the block. i will put my turbo dunce hat on, others will have to comment about that. they might want to know what kind of boost you're running, do you know or have a gauge?

would you rather quit telling yourself that or ignore yourself? engine start up routines are not going to save, or blow up, head gaskets. but sometimes having a routine or how you feel about something means more than any quantitative or statistical representation so if you like it then roll with it.

give them a call and give them the code, fairly sure they'll provide you with something. how close it is might be another story. be aware the metallics are harder to match (more likely to look different) and a little trickier to spray. i just sprayed a metallic not too long ago out of a can. turned out okay but didn't match all that closely, luckily it was on our car we care the least about. in my recent paint exploration there's a two stage, mix in a can, spray can clear coat. follow the directions to puncture the internal cylinder and you've got 2 stage clear coat. our local places, including a sherwin williams next door, would not provide the clear coats like that. they said they used to so it probably depends on the area.

Great, thanks GD - not sure if you saw it but I'm going to go with propane instead of acetylene. You're right, propane doesn't have the flow restrictions of acetylene.

with those kinds of details no one will buy it and it's not worth more than scrap prices. i can infer some things by your comments but year, auto, manual, FWD, AWD, EA81, EA82, turbo, non turbo.... if this is one of the models with only 5 digits, how do they verify that it's only actually 39,000 miles and not 139,000 or more? i've wondered that because you see them all the time listed with low mileage....but i know all of them don't actually have that low of mileage. saw one for sale today actually, a 1983 GL10. a really nice 1983 Turbo GL10 wagon automatic was just listed on here for $2,500 and sold very quickly so I'm assuming the final price was close to that. You could find that thread to see.

you don't have to pull the engine to do the valve covers, they do take awhile as they're very tight to get to. get a 10mm ratcheting wrench if you don't want to spend 10 hours doing it.....i'm pretty sure they're 10mm? find out where the coolant is coming from. there's a coolant line coming off the bottom of the engine that runs over to an oil cooler fitted inline with the oil pump. that line carries coolant and can leak. if you really do need a headgasket job and are going to get it done, then wait to do the valve cover gaskets as they'd be much easier to do with the engine out of the car, which it's going to come out for a head gasket job. headgasket are really rare on that motor, i've only seen it once from another board member. *** you mention body shop - was it in a wreck? if so definitely check the coolant hoses, radiator, and that lower coolant line to the oil cooler.

that sucks RG, better luck with the next one. as a last resort, you might be able to find some cheap used spares from a junk yard to throw on it so you can snag your snows. or more annoying have a tire shop swap out old throw aways onto your rims if you just want the snows. put it on craigslist for cheap, someone will get it for a couple hundred and get you your tires back. the EJ25 is low end Subaru reliability, that's why none of my fleet of daily's has one.

i've said it 10 million times but rebooted subarus or MWE is the only way. good luck busting it out, it's actually really simple and quick minus the tricky parts which aren't hard - just need the tools and experience and it's easy.

cams are about all that's worth doing as far as mods on the non turbo EJ22. Deltacams will set you up, they are members here. i would expect 30 mpg out of an EJ22, but others that have one can comment. i thought there was a mpg for lifted rigs thread? you need to source some parts and price compare. EJ22, EJ trans, EJ22T is a HUGE price range. seems like simple Ej22 swap would be the best starting point. they're so cheap and the obvious choice for budget constraints. if all goes well you'll know you can EJ22T it later.

yes, nice info! larger tips - are tips standardized - meaning one tip can fit on any torch...or are there "sizes" of torches (besides lengths - i've seen all different lengths). so tank, regulator, hose, torch, doesn't make a difference in how thick of a metal can be cut? spent a good couple hours reading about it and didn't see any mention of that. a Victor a guy has locally seems like a good bet right now - everything but tanks for a good price, but still want to be informed about what is what. y'all are great, thanks for the input.