idosubaru

Right on sounds like more work than I'm interested in. What Subaru's come with controls on the steering wheel - or it's a dealer installed option on new stuff?

hhhmmmm, intersting, maybe it's "normal"? or common.

Don't know the code - something about O2 sensors, I can check again been wanting to get it straight. Fuel mileage is around 21-22 mpg highway. Runs and drives fine.

oh right on, i'm not familiar with pre-88 stuff at all (well excluding 87.5 XT Turbo but that hardly counts!).

There's no problem if the driveshaft is disconnected and it means nothing to the rear diff. This is done all the time, disconnecting the shaft is fine. If a rear differential fails due to spinning, it's certainly not capable of doing it's job while under load from the engine. They are very simple units really.

Hm, good point. It *seems* more than it should be. I have terrible sense of smell and shouldn't even notice it. The XT6, while 0.3 liters smaller and older is a six cylinder but not nearly as bad. Checked the plugs? You mean spark plugs? I think they were changed about 40,000 miles ago.

2002 OBW - very strong smell. Can't really describe it, maybe it's running rich I don't know. Right at start up, stinks up a garage in no time. Also have an O2 sensor code but both front O2 sensors (The H6 has two fronts) are new OEM Subaru O2 sensors.

Sounds like a good idea. I'd probably do the same thing. You don't think there's a cheaper filter alternative somewhere? $50 is rather nuts for a filter. I'd go with an adapter. In 1998 Subaru added a screw on external filter to their auto trans maybe you could get an adapter and use those, they would be the specifications and such that you would want for your 4EAT. Very little difference between yours and a 98+ 4EAT from a functional standpoint. That's what I would do. I haven't heard of anyone checking trans temps except maybe twice but i don't recall any results. I have one of those laser temp guns guess i could check. Subaru doesn't design them to run hotter than they're supposed to. If yours was too hot it would point to something being wrong, not just insufficient cooling. Subaru auto trans are very robust so the system is designed well. Failure is usually attributable to poor maintenance - infrequent fluid changes, tire rotation, getting towed, etc. Now if you're towing or doing some high capacity work that might be different. But that's rare for folks to be towing that much.

i've run without that hanger before with no issues but i see what you're saying, certainly won't help or increase he life of the exhaust.

How do these work - are they for the entire radio set up - CD, radio, sirius? I'm wondering if I can buy a controller equipped steering wheel and interface it with my stereo.

that rear exhaust hanger isn't necessary.

$30,000 purchase and a few hundred in parts to get what you want, I say bite the bullet and go for it.

Yeah you're gear ratios are going to be off if what you're typing here is correct like JCE said. Swap the rear diff. I asked this once before - where the "conversion" takes place for different gear ratios/speedo's and i forget what the answer is.

This would have been a good case of asking before hand. The oil pump backing plate screws come loose, very common, I remove every one every time I do a timing belt. What I'm not sure of - is if they actually can cause noise or reduced oil pressure - but my guess is yes. Personally I would reseal or replace the oil pump. Parts are like less than $15 for a seal, oring and anaerobic sealant. That being said, it could be a rod bearing as these engines are known to loose those. But I'd hate to assume that on something simple like the oil pump too. Might want to mention this to the mechanic and see if he'll cut you some slack.

sweet - that's great news the light doesn't work. Makes it simple as it probably has a code - read it. Battery light on will point to alternator/battery/cable issues or more likely might be dead battery due to constantly trying to start it.

howdy, this place is great. xt6.net is now subaruxt.com, come back to us over there. your old login should work there. we ended up loosing our domain name, but we're back for all your xt specific needs.

this only works if you can turn the car on.

Don't know about NGK being OEM supplier. All I know is what I said - these engines are not forgiving at all with wires, it's quite annoying. If he doesn't want to throw money into it then there's not much he can do, I can't think of any definitive test that will tell him exactly what is wrong. But I would go have the codes checked. Electrical problems are usually intermittent like this which is why I suspect coil/crank/cam sensors.

Yes - like I said all the nicer GT's, LSi's, SUS, and OBW (except 96 MT) have the EJ25. Buy it and swap in an EJ22 then sell the EJ25 - they're very easy to sell for a good price given their propensity to blow head gaskets and loose lower end bearings. That's what I did - I bought my LSi in my sig and yanked the EJ25. I like my LSi way more than any first gen stuff. Hey - go test drive that GT you posted a link to. I personally like leather seats though, I never was impressed with cloth seats. But they're easy enough to swap in later too.

i'm not sure what he means by 4EAT's and 5MT's not fitting, but i don't believe that's the case. they should fit just fine. there are EA82's that came with 4EAT's and they aren't any different than the EJ 4EAT's - actually they're interchangeable if you swap wiring.

has to be AWD and yes it will need to be towed. just disconnect the rear driveshaft - i always disconnect them at the rear differential, just 4 12mm bolts and i can typically leave the shaft just laying there on the protector that a lot of EJ's have. found one with a blown EJ25 huh, man they're a dime a dozen!

Looks, newer, and nicer are what I like about the newer stuff. The lower end legacy's are just that - lower end. If you don't like cheap trim and low end feel don't get an impreza and don't get a brighton or L model Legacy or plan on some upgrades. I wouldn't want an early gen legacy nor would i want a low end base model 95-99, they're equally low end. Subaru just offered more trim levels, not got cheap in my opinion. Get the cheap trim levels and yeah they're cheap - roll up windows still, really? The problem is the nice ones also get the EJ25. But that has a silver lining since it's easy to buy a nice one cheap as dirt with a blown motor (I...and others, have done it plenty of times). I'd look for an LSi, SUS, OBW, or GT with a blown motor or trans. Go test drive one with larger brakes, wheels, leather heated seats, etc: you won't get the feel of cheap or a step backwards. Then drop an EJ22 in it. You get all the niceness of a nice car without an EJ25. The nicer models also come with nicer rims, 15" or 16" aluminum wheels, dual piston front calipers, rear calipers (not drum), nicer stereo's, remote entry, and have possibilities of other options like heated side view mirrors, heated seats, etc. That's the best option of you can do the work yourself.

great idea, i like it. but +1 on their recommendations - it did load slow for me too. like it was panning. their notes for searches are crucial, but only if you think folks may be directed to you by search engines.

I'm getting lost in the various discussions here. You're interested in the no start issue? I'd just swap in another coil - it's right on top the motor, costs little for a used one and takes a few seconds. Crank/cam sensors are suspect too for a no start. Have the check engine codes read, maybe there's a stored one even if the CEL isn't on.

MY proceeds the year of the vehicle - so you're talking about all 1988 stuff here. A 2000 Subaru will have a 1999 build date etc, with some minor variance logistically speaking I would guess. The 1987.5 XT Turbo was a beast unto itself, literally only made for a half year, never to be sold again (in the US anyway). pardon the side track, we got it figured out that it's a non-turbo 88. hope you find a good solution between your available cars. guess this means we'll loose an XT member on the xt board. BOO!