idosubaru

quart per 700, that is a lot. sounds like you've investigated it fairly well. good luck tracking it down, i've always wondered about the "full" question you asked as well, i'm not sure.

you looking to replace just the boot or the actual joint? boots are fairly straight forward once the axle is off the car. i did my first one recently and think i have a thread on here as well. forester, impreza, legacy axles are all the same (they're even interchangeable 99% of the time), so don't worry about model.

you can do whatever you want. tank tracks on your subaru, yes it can (and has) been done. you're only limited by your abilities, so we can't really help without some more feedback. you want something along the lines of changing a light bulb or you ready for some welding and cutting and have lots of experience? you doing the work or paying for it?

"oil pan leaks" often are not oil pan leaks. Due to the design of the motor nearly every possible leak on the motor will make the oil pan mating surface wet and look like it's leaking but where the oil ends up doesn't matter. It's sort of like looking at your parking spot in the garage and saying "Oh man my concrete is leaking!" Track it down and verify first. Lots of posts on here about doing oil pan gaskets if it turns out to be that. ** i'll add to your description it's not so much about oil pan/bolt access as it is about gaining clearance from the cross member to pull the pan out. the pan is not empty - it has baffles in it and a sump passing through those baffles, you only have very limited room to twist/turn/pull the pan off and that clearance isn't there on all Subarus without lifting the motor.

did you check out jamal's amazing brake thread? it covers most of subaru's goofy brakes.

I didn't realize later model EJ trans were much different than older ones, which I've never seen a problem with. I was sort of lumping them altogether. I'll edit my previous post. In that case - are the older transmissions more reliable, so swapping those in would actually be a better fit even for newer stuff? Might he have another option - pulling the trans yourself and then having a shop or subaru person repair it for you if you know the problem and can get a bead on costs?

No tutorial. If you want to sell this guy this engine I suggest doing a lot of searching and reading to figure some of this stuff out. They are correct: Exhaust will be different - he would need your matching exhaust manifold to swap into his. Intakes do not interchange. The bellhousing bolt pattern is slightly different too - easy to work around but different. Crank or cam sensors also changed with some Phase II stuff - I'm not sure how/where that change occurred exactly but it could very well be a stumbling block as well.

+1 make sure it's not just old PS fluid draining elsewhere? let's hope for good luck on this? i realize this doesn't mean much but i haven't ever seen a head gasket leak like that.

hubs don't have any electrical wire/sensor attached to them unless they are ABS equipped. so you can visually check behind each tire, if there's not wire coming out from the metal between the engine bay and fender area and no wire/sensor bolted (with one bolt) to the hub then you don't have it. the ABS motor is up front on the passengers side - a huge honking thing with lines all over it.

sealing up that leak should help. get Subaru OEM gaskets, they're a lot better quality than aftermarkets. oil dripping on the exhaust usually smells bad too.

Oh yeah - I'm not sure on that one, good call. Someone else will verify. EJ18's were OBD1 but I thought the EJ22's were OBDII? Last resort is swap the Ej22 engine harness onto the Ej25 intake if there is an issue there.

from subaru's website: there's only one bearing: #5 there are two seals: #2 and #6

rear hubs are completely different between FWD and AWD. so when I look on rockauto i'm seeing two that are listed for both FWD and AWD - that has to be front bearings, so just have to make sure they're legacy's. looks like they're showing multiple brands, but the same part.

FWD and AWD front hubs are the same actually, no difference in legacy's. Are you in wilmington DE, these guys have a used hub for $30: 302-322-3344 AH - scratch my remarks about impreza's, that difference is not in the hub. I'll edit that. In 93 the loyale was still offered, so it might be listing those as well.

93 could be AWD or FWD, but for the fronts I *thought* FWD and AWD hubs were interchangeable for the most part in legacy's. rockauto is very confusing, it tends to list parts that are not for the vehicle you're searching for. sorry i can't be any more specific than that but sometimes just typing the part number in google will bring up more specific applications and what years/makes the part is for.

i thought this seem very pointed. seemed to me he wondering if this was plug and play or not and specifics didn't matter. this discussion on the electronics has already happened on the XT boards (phil swapped one in his XT6) and it's been mentioned on the subaruoutback.org forum as well.

have one shipped, they're easily found for $1,500. has to be rare to find one of those in the cheaper yards. if they're only getting $175 for an engine they certainly didn't pay much for the car - these cars are expensive even when wrecked though - so it's not going to be "common". another option is getting the entire car, finding a wrecked one for instance.

the one i was thinking of:

this car will absolutely suck - send me a link so i can see it. Offroading means all sorts of things, it would be worthless for some things, fine for others. I use mine all the time and it does exactly what I need it to do. they're fantastic in the snow and off road for what i've used it for. they do have lots of quirks and some hard to get parts, but otherwise are really nice for an older subaru. they're old as dirt, cheap, but still run and feel like a nice ride. mine is a daily driver and it's not gutless to the point of annoying. the air suspension rides really nice (if it works ) visit subaruxt.com for all your xt related needs. mine is lifted, you can see pictures of it posted here.

drive in tight circles on dry pavement to check for torque bind. it'll feel like a dull (or severe) braking action. search here for torque bind for more info.

search - this swap is done all the time, though like he said most are going the other way. all of that info will apply to you. you don't touch the wiring/computer, it's easy, you ignore all of that. that being said - i'd replace the headgaskets in or carefully inspect the EJ25 being installed first - just type in "Subaru headgasket" to your favorite search engine to see why. you don't mention auto verses manual but if yours is a manual trans then you'll have EGR issues. engine will swap and run just fine but the EJ25 will have EGR where a manual EJ22 does not. car will run just fine you'll just need to ignore the check engine light (doesn't matter in our state) and make a block off plate. in 95 EJ22 auto's have EGR so that would be a straight up swap. you'll also be going from a noninterference engine to an inteference engine. this means if the timing belt breaks on the EJ25 you'll sustain internal engine damage (not so with your 95 EJ22) - best to replace all the timing components on it before installing - belt, pulleys and tensioner (runs $200+) and water pump too.

Gloyale (or someone) has a detailed thread on repairing the transmission i believe. if you're doing it yourself, get one with a warranty. last used trans i bought had a 3 or 6 month warranty, but i didn't (and never have) needed it. you can search boards like here and other forums to see how frequently things pop up. your best bet is low mileage and from a wreck. and then change your transmission gear oil regularly. how often was yours changed?

you will also need to swap axles. non turbo and turbo transmissions have different spline counts where the axles attach. simple solution is just to swap the axles as they are the same in every other way.

That hasn't been my experience or the experience of lots of other folks on here. It's not too hard to come up with a good trans, I've yet to be hosed.

you can't swap 6 cylinder and 4 cylinder motors without significant wiring harness issues and actually more issues than that. you'll wan to stick with 4 cylinder stuff if wiring/full on custom stuff isn't your gig. turbo's are good for a lot of horsepower, i'd just plan on getting another block. "blew a turbo and needs a new engine"? are you sure the motor is toast?