idosubaru

Yep, that doesn't matter. Bellhousing pattern changed in 98, but it'll still bolt up just fine. Use all the ones that line up. What does matter is that the EJ25 changed from Phase I to Phase II in 1999/2000 (depending on model). Since yours has a different bellhousing it could be a 98 or 99. If you cross referenced then it doesn't really matter, I'm sure you just didn't go randomly buy a subaru engine right? As long as you have a 1996-1998, or 99 Phase I it'll drop right in and plug and play. Phase I is easily identifiable as DOHC - which means dual cams on each side - the timing cover will look the same with two "indentations" for the cam sprockets. if the timing covers look different then it won't work. Of course - you'll want one with the proper EGR set up, but you already know that from your other debacle. Sorry to hear you couldn't find a way around that, what a stinking mess.

You got it - 4WD is true "locked" 4WD and should never be used unless you're offroad or in slick conditions...like all that snow you get down there .

There's no need to pull the engine to do the head gaskets on these. They're so easy to do in the car I wouldn't waste the time. These are fairly easy to get seated. Follow the procedures properly and basically %100 success rate, it's not a crap shoot. Not having been there I can't say what went wrong, but something did. If you think you torqued everything down just fine then the heads need to be checked and possibly the block face, but that's rare.

Anyone replacing the tie rod is not going to align the car. If you do it right there's no need for an alignment (see my notes above). I never get an alignment after replacing tie rods. "alignment" is such a marketed term these days, no one really understands it, everyone thinks it's some mystical thing. $150 is reasonable. Not cheap but reasonable.

You don't specify inner or outer by i'm guessing it's the outer? Tie rods are really easy, it's only two nuts and that's it. They're also very critical, probably one of the most dangerous items on the car should it fail. So if the boot is broke or it's loose definitely a good thing to replace. But there are a few things to note: * Count exactly how many rotations it takes to remove, then reinstall the other the same number of turns. This maintains your alignment. I also don't back the nut off much to keep alignment of the tie rod itself close. I'd use a Subaru unit so everything is made the same. If you don't do this step then you might be off a bit and need to get an alignment. * Have a pickle fork to make your life easy. The tie rod is tight fit in the hub and can be hard to get out. A pickle fork means it takes 6 seconds every time. PLaces likes advaned auto parts or autozone have loaner tool and tool rental programs so you can borrow a tool like this for free. stop in and ask them. * Rust is not your friend. The nut on the tie rod might be tight. Spraying it all down really good with PB Blaster before hand, like a couple days even...even a couple times (both ends of the tie rod is a good idea) helps. The more rusty it is, the more annoying it may be. Loosen the inner nut first before remove the tie rod from the hub. I've actually replaced tie rods before without even jacking the car up and removing the wheel. I don't recommend it, particularly a bad idea your first time, I'm just saying it's possible. That being said - it's well under an hour job at a shop, so it shouldn't cost much to fix.

in 1996 this is a known glitch and your car is exempt from such testing. what year is your vehicle? Autozone can read the codes, but may not be able to actually read the monitors. Those are different things. Your 75 miles may not have been enough.

compression tests are only as good as the set up. if the throttle plate is closed and the battery isn't fully charged you can get all sorts of readings. you're right, it doesn't look good, but it's still silly to toss a car away without knowing for sure whether it's the internals or $50 in wires.

Yeah avoid the EZ out. If it comes out with an EZ out it will come out with all sorts of other methods too.

Right on compressed air, haven't done that yet. Thanks. All of the ones I have have 2 shims on each side bearing plate. Anyone seen other variations? Just curious.

Never heard of anyone doing the test or following through with these kinds of things. May be required by law? You probably own dozens (if not hundreds) of things that "require" things like this. essentially CYA on the manufacturers part. You fire alarms have a date stamped in them with a replacement date. My guess is most, in older homes, are way beyond that date. and on and on....

anything can be made to work, Subaru engines are put in airplanes, Volkswagens, Porsche's.... there are two varieties of EJ25's in 99, so that will make a difference in how hard it is.

I read the writes up they're saved to my hard drive. I didn't see mention of those orings or metal gasket things. Curious what those metal things are for. My ring gear used the larger bolts and the LSD chunk smaller, so I had to do a lot of drilling what a PITA. Now that I have metal shavings everywhere - any chance this LSD chunk is worth installing? Is there any chance of flushing any metal out from all the nooks and crannies inside? I had it covered and all, but not good enough. Sprayed it down, will spray some more. Doesn't seem like there's anyway to get all that metal out from inside though.

cylinder misfires are very common and usually caused by spark plugs or wires. have they ever been replaced? and these engines happen to be very picky, NGK and OEM wires only. if the compression test was done without opening the throttle and a full power available from the battery or a charger i wouldn't necessarily trust those numbers. but it doesn't sound good, that's a big differential. if it is the valves, a thorough head job and timing belt job might be an option. if the car is in good condition another 100,000 miles out of the engine is very possible if the job is done right. about $1,500.

There were two shim plates under one bearing cap (but not the other). I assume the shims stay with bearing cap which stays with the case/ring gear. Right? Basically just swap the chunk and everything else stays together. There was also a large o-ring under the caps. Do you guys generally add a coat of sealant to the oring or not? Oh and really important do you guys use the 3.7 LSD plate or the 3.9?

you need an EG33, wiring, and computer. then you need to either couple the EG33 to the XT6 trans or better yet go with an EJ transmission. that's a big increase in hp for the XT6 trans, particularly one with a quarter million miles on it. it's a big job, it is by no means a drop in and plug and play swap.

I think there's lots of things not listed in service manuals that tend to be wear items - tires, wiper blades, light bulbs, floor mats, brake caliper boots, yellowed head light lenses, strut parts, axle boots.... I mean I see your point and differing opinions are cool, but I'm not seeing much value in everyone coming to a consensus on how to view repairs.

Power steering is really simple actually, nothing to it. I'd much rather do that than mess with oil pans, so what that tells me is you're way over qaulified for whatever this steering leak throws at you. Even if you have to swap racks it's super easy and Subaru steering racks very rarely fail which means used ones are dirt cheap.

hmmm, yours is phase II being an EJ22 so I guess that's sort of out of range for comparison purposes.

the permatorques are just plain head gaskets, etc, nothing all that special about them.

Yeah, I can't think of any bolt on any Subaru ever made that's supposed to be replaced when removed. Except maybe those shear-head bolts you have to drill out of ignitions!:lol:

i'm not super familiar with retorquing heads but i believe you're not supposed to drive the car. i think it's supposed to get up to operating temperature then retorque. that being said if you end up needing to re-do it, there's a much simpler way. get the Fel Pro Permatorque gaskets, that's what nearly everyone on here uses. they're designed to not need retorqued, well worth it. many of us crank them an additional 5-10 pounds too just for good measure. as to retorquing already leaking heads, i'm not sure about that. my guess is that it's not ideal but will probably buy you time. i've *heard* people even say they've tigthened old heads before that were leaking to slow down/stop leaks. that's not ideal obviously but if that actually did anything you *might* have a chance retorquing these.

Thanks fairtax, actually your part number won't help what I'm asking for, but would be interesting to know probably for someone in the future. I thought the numbers were just stamped right on the ECU - it's under the passengers side foot carpeting. I can check one of mine that's already removed if you're interested in digging it up. I'm looking for myself, but need one from an automatic. And the other person (GSIR...they have another thread) needs one from a 97+ model.

I like the 95 and 96 better than the earlier generations. they always seem messier in the engine bay, 95+ seems simpler but maybe that's just the nature of older motors, worse maintenance, etc. either way, same great motor, no issues to be found. 97+ is an interference engine and a slightly less reliable timing tensioner design. 96 should still be non-interference.

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Woah yes - is it a manual or automatic? I had a 98 OBS without EGR a few years ago too, still have the motor.