idosubaru

I'm not sure what you're asking. Are you wanting to buy the right header? In that case you need to look at the one you're replacing first, that's the only definitive way. If the motor was swapped it could have either or. Dual port manifold for a 95 will look like this: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_7/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_2/ Single port EJ22 will look nearly the same except the part that bolts up to the engine will just look like the flange in this picture (keeping in mind everything else is different in this picture, just using this as a reference for what the "port" difference where it bolts up to the head looks like): http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_1/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_4/ As you can see it funnels/converges very quickly from 2-to-1 pipe right out of the head. Look at the first couple inches and it's obvious. And yes you can count bolt holes too.

right, that's what i said, was that a question? of course by ER i just mean the front two. The heads have two ports, but the headers quickly converge from 2-to-1 on each side. should be easy enough to find a picture if that would help.

struts won't air up unless the solenoids are opened while the compressor is running. but you know that. not sure why the compressor would be shutting off. have you tried jacking the car up and pulling the struts down by hand? sometimes when they're fully compressed this will happen. it's like they're so far out of limits the system acts quirky. getting the car off the ground and allowing the struts to extend can prompt it to come on and pump up. i would think it's that or the computer. if it were a solenoid, strut, height sensor, or the tank it should at least "try" to air up for more than a second. maybe the previous owner disconnected something or the computer? is the air suspension light coming on at all? i guess if it starts for one second it's actually hooked up though. i am curious to know if the air suspension light is flashing, that's sort of the "check engine" light for the system, it should start flashing. not sure if you can get it to spit out codes like you can for ABS, TCU, ECU, etc but i feel like i've done that before.

Sounds like miscommunication or the guy just didn't know. Your 95 EJ22 should be dual port heads. Meaning two exhaust ports on the heads, easily noticeable on the exhaust manifold as well. Single port is just one siamesed port like the older EA/ER engines.

crap, what was i thinking?

actually the air suspension if refurbished (cheap and easy if you follow my directions above) is reliable and cheap. seal it all up and it'll outlast the vehicle. struts wear - I own a Legacy and have had to replace struts, coils, and top mounts. Parts that air suspensions don't have. But most folks won't put any effort into it and end up where you're saying....frustrated and out a lot of cash. Actually Subaru did offer it on subsequent models, though your point still stands, i like the use of capitals on EVER. :lol:

i don't know what size that nut is. i guess measure it or cut out something the same size. some of the better shops will have a set of calipers to let you go out and measure. i guess you don't have an old rack lying around to just take the nut/rack with you? what issues are you having that make you look into the rack? if you removed a rack, adjusted it, and reinstalled it - it could have just been the reinstallation that "fixed" it due to loose or old bushings. replacing the bushings OR retigthening everything may have sured it up. loose rack feel or "delays" in steering are often bad bushings. the higher performance ones (Whiteline used to sell them) are nice and firm and inexpensive. i recommend them if you have to remove a rack anyway. i would have been surprised if more than one person actually replied with info. i've never heard of it being an issue, i've owned 30 or 40 Subaru's and worked on a few dozen or hundred others. a quick internet search or on other Subaru forums turns up nothing. i'm guessing the play you're seeing is normal and your issue lies somewhere else.

you don't "need" it, but you might want it. you need something to get the inner tie rod off but not a special tool, i'd use a wrench, readily available and useful for lots of other things. i can't imagine not being able to get that off but I don't know what your tool selection looks like. if you're concerned about it, then it might be best to have it on hand. buy it locally and you can return it if you don't need it...or some places like Advanced Auto Parts an Autozone have tool loaner programs. i already mentioned, wrenches and monkey wrenches (pipe wrenches) will get it off.

Okay, I just remembered that I ordered an inner tie rod for a Subaru Outback not too long ago and went and looked at it. It has all new hardware with the tie rod. New nut & lock washer. But if you buy the cheapest thing you can find it may not.

i've replaced a few tie rods and i've never bought the locking tabs....but i can not imagine that i would install the old ones so i would assume it came with the hardware. i think it can vary by manufacturer. like some axles come with nothing, some with nut, some with nut and pin. some ball joints come with pinch bolt, nuts, and pin, some just the nut and pin...etc. seems like the higher quality stuff tends to come with the hardware. new nuts, pins, bolts, etc. the cheap stuff might just come with none or fewer parts. i don't buy cheap stuff on tie rods, i'd installed a used Subaru OEM unit before buying the cheap stuff here. i just did a stinking inner tie rod last year and can't recall...

Like they said, the ignition or knock sensor sounds likely, although I would expect a code if it's that bad. But I have seen problems with no Check Engine Light before. A really bad knock sensor can cause a drivability problem like he's describing. Often they're benign and the car runs fine but they also *can* cause a lot of issues. A vacuum leak is also notorious for doing exactly what you're talking about. Car starts but won't drive without tap dancing the throttle and then even then it usually stalls. So - the spray down may have knocked a vacuum hose loose. Spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner around the engine bay while the car is idling will show a vacuum leak very quickly.

it's probably a leak or the tank sensor/solenoid is fouled. or it's just "stuck" from sitting flat so long like he said. but at the same time the compressor probably may have failed previously from running too much. your best bet is to put your efforts into a coil over conversion. that stuff is covered here and super well documented on subaruxt.com. the air suspension system is really nice, don't get me wrong, but it's awfully symptomatic with age. having sat for so long the air bags may be compromised, the rubber is dry, cracked and pitted from the rusted struts, one or more of the 2 dozen orings in the system is bad, the sensors are plugged with corrosion, the tabs on the fittings crack with age, the base of the fittings on the drier crack often, the valves in the compressor and solenoid in the tank can get corroded...etc. it turns into a nightmare and makes the car no fun to own. here's a plan to keep to keep these systems reliable: go through and replace all the orings - at the compressor and each strut. this will also show you any bad fittings (the tabs or bases often crack causing leaks). replace any of those that are bad. remove and clean the tank solenoid and pressure sensor. treat each strut - de-rust the bases and paint them to prevent further rust (i have a thread on this at the subaruxt.com forum). do that and get the system operational and they're actually very reliable and they do ride very nice. i've never liked a coil over ride as much as the air suspension. and it rides exceptionally nice considering how high it sits. good luck!

I've never had a problem with the tab, guess it depends on the vehicle.

The inner tie rod is never a problem getting off since it doesn't sit entirely exposed and prone to rust like the outer tie rod. You will find both nuts to be the pain to remove, not the inner tie rod. well at least in my experience. wrenches, monkey wrench/pipe wrench will get it off no problem.

i've ordered from radiatorbarn before too with no problems, but never EJ25. i have a couple used ones dave, but you probably already have some too and probably not worth shipping.

I'm from Westminster. Don't know what high end import you went too but in my experience they are not the place to get work done around the baltimore metro area. I've never been impressed with any of them, but that's totally not my style either. They need your money to help pay for the $15,000 paint job and $13,000 stereo in their "show car" on display.

I'm not sure what you mean by "older"? I'm not really familiar with the newer stuff and interchangeability. I recently saw a sweet 2008 EJ25 with only a few miles on it (i mean really low - i thought they said it was like less than 10 miles on the engine) for only $1,000. 724-525-1210 Dont know anything about it or the seller though.

yep, standard head gasket job, good surfaces, new Subaru gasket and you'll be golden. sounds good.

Yep - it could be more ominous too - like an inner tie rod. Either way if you're experiencing sypmtoms i'd get it one sooner rather than later.

maybe fix the leak or the input shaft bearing? i'd go with the non-leaker. leaking is annoying an usually gets worse or leads to other problems, but i've never seen a leak there so i'm not familiar with it.

The LSD is nice but my use is more utilitarian, like hunting, driving around my property. I don't do hard core or off road for fun (well it's fun but it's never the goal i guess) so I'm not pushing the limits. So I've never really thought about trying welded. I think I notice it most when pulling someone or something heavy, seems less likely to start slipping if I'm on a slick surface.

If it's DOHC then it's Phase I and will drop in place, plug and play. Just deal with the bellhousing bolts, otherwise everything is golden.

You can also visually inspect the tie rods, there's hardly anything to them. A boot - which will be visibly torn or play, which will be obvious. I've yet to see any Subaru tie rod with play, but I'm sure it happens. Broken boot is much more likely.

A tie rod is what connects your steering to your front hub (think - wheel). When it breaks (rare) the wheel/hub is free to turn anywhere it wants regardless of where you turn the wheel because it's no longer connected. That's why I say it is a safety concern, there's hardly anything more dangerous. Tie rods fail inspection typically when the boot is busted or it's loose. Usually it's just a busted boot. It is very unlikely to fail if it's not making noise. They make noise when they run out of grease and start to grind metal on metal. Even then it will be awhile before they fail. If the car has ever been in an accident or severe collission, the joint may have been stressed outside of normal wear and tear. That's cool if you like getting an alignment, but it's not necessary and I wouldn't advertise that it is. It's been done for decades and is fairly easy to maintain alignment when replacing a tie rod. Actually it's really easy and done all the time. If someone is performance minded and such then I doubt they're worried about saving cash replacing a tie rod to pass inspection. I might not post this same response on the NASIOC turbo performance forum. With the frequency you should be rotating tires on an AWD Subaru you can keep an eye out for improper tire wear and get an alignment when you notice it or your rotating mechanic will let you know. That's what I do and I haven't paid for an alignment in 10 or 15 years except in rebuilding a wrecked car.

Phase II = SOHC and Phase I = DOHC. I believe the thrust bearing was moved (i know it was for EJ22's, probably same for EJ25's). So you probably do have a Phase II. I haven't done it but options that might be possible are: Bolt Phase I heads to Phase II short block Install Phase I engine wiring onto Phase II long block. The intake manifolds are not interchangeable, so it's not as easy as just swapping manifolds. I believe Phase I to Phase II went MAF to MAP so that confuses things if the "Phase I heads on Phase II short block" doesn't work.