idosubaru

Yep, you can do whatever you want. All it takes is resources. Tank tracks on your subaru - go for it. Jet engine on your car - tear it up. Run on propane, sure. Yes the STi trans should bolt right up. Beyond that, good luck! I would think the STi should have the gearing for top end. Are you keeping the EJ25? Why not swap to a turbo motor? NASIOC has gobs of turbo threads, are you familiar with that? Same EJ engines and all. With your questions it sounds like you're really going to need turbo pistons (might as well get a turbo block?) and engine management.

what did you do? did you get a new one, how did it go? did you repair yours, how did that go? glad to hear it sounds like it worked out somehow.

they can do better. a quality brake job can do wonders, my 97 impreza jumped 3mpg after a brake job. folks don't always properly grease the caliper slides and the rubber boots can be compromised with age. they work fine, they can just drag a bit i guess. i'd suggest using the cruise control and making sure the a/c is off for freeway driving? also - mileage drops considerably the faster you go - mileage at 60mph can be a far cry from what you'll get at 75mph. automatic and 4WD. also, being an OBW it has raised roof, raise suspension, full size wagon, and roof racks too, it's not an eco-car that's for sure.

so if you do that you end up with EGR stuff installed on a nonEGR engine? the sensor just dangles and the EGR you leave off?

oh i gaurantee that, i was thinking much less than that.

the wrecked car is a good bet, it was known running before it was wrecked. ask the previous owners if the head gaskets were ever replaced? offer then $100 less?

mizpah engineering. $3clean yours or $7 rebuilt, something like that. i personally hate doing more work than i have too - so if yo'ure not positive it's a HLA then just replace the oil pump and see what happens. removing the timing belts is easy any way. oil pump is far more likely usually. i haven't heard any HLA related TOD "come and go" - they've always been bad and always made noise or not. sounds like oil pump seal related to me. a new pump will likely seal the new gaskets/seals just fine.

you know i've heard this before too, but i've never seen any associated issues with it like overheating or anything so it might be benign.

I think i would recommend this: ask the mechanic to replace any that are noisy or not smooth. There's no hard and fast rules and the risk of it breaking if you leave all the existing idlers is very, very tiny. I just tend to be on the anal side and will avoid really small risk. that certainly isn't a necessity. The newer cars tend to have decent idlers, so it's a bit of a stretch to say you "must" replace. I replaced one on my friends 2002 Legacy the other week and the idlers were fine - at 230,000 miles too. For a $10,000 car a few hundred dollars for new pulleys and a gauranteed 100,000 miles (until the next timing belt) doesn't sound that bad either. But it's expensive and the risk is very low if you don't - just depends how you view risk and if the extra expense if worth that small amount of risk.

Man, you're nuts!! Does that mean the bearing preload or backlash will need readjusted too? Good luck, that's awesome! (i mean that in a technical, you're the man because you're going to do it kind of way).

Sounds like typically EJ25 head gasket issues. If you have added or lost any coolant recently then you have air in the coolant system and it needs to be properly bled. search for "burping" or bleeding or air bubbles here for tons of information. If it is - then your "tune up" is only coincidental, there's no possible way it affected the over heating. When overheating - pop the hood and if it's bubbling into the overflow - it's head gasket problems. Or if the reservoir looks dirty, that's not a good sign either. Lots of information on EJ25 head gasket problems here, start reading and good luck.

16 flashes means nothing specifically. it's essentially the "check engine light" for the trans and means the TCU has a code stored. at this point you need to check the code. inserting the FWD fuse should get rid of torque bind. if it doesn't then the duty C solenoid or clutches (or both) are hosed.

when these things interfere it's the valves that get bent, there's no piston damage. and without the timing belt the engine will turn over just fine because the cams will end up in the "relaxed" non interference position once the belt breaks, so they all turn over just fine. since they only incur valve damage, the heads are easy to repair if necessary. the only reason i wouldn't is that if the cam seized, that's likely due to oil starvation - were any other parts compromised as a result of that oil supply issue to that cam or just the cam? this is not an unheard of issue and has happened before, if other folks have fixed it i'd just repair it.

Swapping in another EJ25 is fine. I prefer selling a good car to folks too, like you. But in this case people in the market for an EJ25 vehicle are going to be looking at lots of other vehicles with unknown EJ25's on it. But I find it easier to get higher money on ones up to date - new head gaskets, timing belts, etc. You can ask more and get it, of course some people are just cheap and low ballers and don't care, just pass on them. You're fine either way, I think you'll have an easier to sell car with better chances of more $ if you attack the HG's.

Take the car back, it's not for you. There's no way around this problem unless you buy a vehicle with smoke stacks instead of exhaust So yeah if you were driving through any wet conditions (which you said you were) - this is just slush/water/snow burning off the hot exhaust.

this is really simple. find out what your check engine light is. there are plenty of codes that are rather benign but it's always good to know what it is rather than assume it doesn't matter. it could very well be that your car was out of limits a long time ago but not to the point of causing drivability problems - but now it is causing problems. have the code read. "fuel delivery" is highly unlikely to be the problem. folks that don't know much about cars typically say things like "sounds like it's not getting fuel" or "your catalytic converter is plugged" or some other canned inexperienced answer when in reality those almost never happen to subarus.

Crank and cam sensors are known for causing no-starts on these. You've heard of a MAF sensor causing this before? I've never heard of a no start caused by a MAF, but i'm sure it's possible.

i started to as well! then realized he just didn't know.

Have you tried to find them yet - NAPA, Advanced, etc? If you take your motor/brushes into an automotive electrical shop they're likely to have something that will work on hand. But of course that means down time which you're probably not interested in? I don't do this to my own stuff, but since it looks like you're into saving a few bucks - you can take them apart, clean them up and reassemble them, that is sure to take care of the problem. I've done it before to help folks out, might last 1 month - or 10 years The insides of electrical motors are typically very dirty.

heater is not internal. only ones i've seen are like thin "blankets" that wrap around the pump, but many i come across now don't have them. so either the "wrap" style i've seen isn't stock or they have problems and get removed a lot.

the EJ front diffs are the same in EA's for auto's as well. i think it's covered in that other thread, sift through there. there's a few, but i don't know them off the top of my head. ebay almost always has some for sale, i'd imagine some for auto have to be on there? google?

i'm curious about that too since i have the same engine. this is pretyy well documented ont he subaruoutback forum, might want to check there? as an update to my friend - he had a clutch failure - poor guy has gotten the run around like crazy on that trans/clutch and i didn't time to do a clutch job for him. Anyway - his clutch failed so he ended up having the plugs done at the same time the clutch was fixed.

Do not proceed until you know for sure what is going on. At 10+ years old a dirty overflow reservoir means little without knowing a lot more about the previous history of the car. The "oil" could just be dirt or left over. It's very possible if you bought it second hand the head gaskets were replaced and that reservoir was never cleaned thoroughly...or it could just be dirty - i see lots of older cars with dirty tanks. Of course I can't see it - so "dirty" is relative. These cars do not blow headgaskets without overheating. If it has a bad head gasket it will over heat at some point. The only exception to that would be if the gasket was already replaced and they didn't do a good job - giving it an odd/abnormal headgasket failure. Also - these cars dont' have running issues - they run absolutely perfectly when the headgaskets are blown - minus the absolutely random overheating of course. First - any check engine light? Sound like simple cylinder misfire stuff to me which means plugs and wires. Old gas never does good things to fuel systems/engines either. They have additives for gas that's going to sit for awhile shoudl you run into that situation again. It might have head gasket issues but the current running issues I would think are something else. Good luck and hope it's not the HG!

Oh man, GD apparently you need to update your title to "I'm and rump roast chewer" :lol: Don't sweat it Animal - he wasn't being mean, he just states the facts. You'll appreciate it when you need help because he knows his junk and does not BS. If he replies it's because he probably knows the answer.

Beautiful - sounding more and more like a broken timing belt! Woo hoo! No - these are non interference engines so no worry of internal engine damage. Get the belt right and you're golden. Get an ebay timing belt kit - they come with all new pulleys and tensioners. No point in going all that way and installing a new belt on 25 year old pulleys that certainly are devoid of grease now (I have never seen an EA82 with smooth pulleys). Or you can get a $3 needle attachment for a grease gun and shoot some grease under the bearing seal on each pulley - i do that too. Don't overfill or it pushes out as it heats up.