idosubaru

oh yeah you're golden, tha'ts a good call. the steering responsiveness factor of the cybrid steering is really lame anyway. if there's really any speed sensitive adjustments i've never noticed it. but i've only owned 20 or 30 XT6's:lol: power controller is the black box to the drivers side of the pump. there's also a power steering recall for the XT6 that only requires the installation of one wire. that runs a light blue wire out of an empty harness connector plug on the drivers side strut tower. not sure what that's all about but you might want to mark that pin out location and find out what it's for in the FSM so you can recreate that in your wiring. it'll be very obvious, a lone blue wire coming out of a connector running across the top of the fire wall orginating at the d/s strut top area. you'll want the steering lines/hoses as well since they obviously differ. but like you already suspect/know the fitting ends are identical to other power steering set ups so it just screws right in....well at least on XT's, so I just assume other EA82's.

Subaru prices are stupid, there are two much better options: MWE - i've bought a number of axles from them. MWE and CCR are completely separate, actually they used to share some facility space but dont' any more. $75 does not include shipping. so you'll be out shipping costs and return if he wants a core, you'll have to ask. i believe the number on the site is wrong, they should update that. He has common stuff in stock - EJ being very common since they're all the same left, right, auto, manual, FWD (when it was available), EJ25, EJ22, wagon, sedan, impreza, legacy forester - all interchangeable! You don't get much simpler than that. Another option is to get a used Subaru axle and reboot it. I get used axles for $30 locally and I buy all newer axles (that fit your car). It's not hard to get on in good shape still too - with good boots. You can slap one of those in there and reboot it once it breaks or just reboot it before you install it. My experience is with the newer axles you can easily get away with just rebooting the inner joint and not the outer. The inners break sooner and the outers last longer - particularly the newer style with more convolutions like yours has. Definitely impact on the axle nut, not sure who would say not to do that, but it's definitely not an issue on Subaru's. Your current axle is not likely to blow up any time soon. Not that I recommend abusing it but you shouldn't have to worry about time here. My axle boots broke on the way to colorado in my lifted rig - 4,000 miles later and some vibration i still made it home just fine. And I was playing in the sand years ago in Georgia with busted boots - bad idea, sand makes mince meat of axles. I still drove 900 miles home that way with lots of noises and vibrations but made it nonetheless. if you stuffed some grease in the joint by hand the vibration would go away. done it a bunch of times.

the annoying thing about the steering sensor is that without it the power steering won't provide any assist. i'm forgetting how it works but i had one that was disconnected once and you essentially only had power steering at start up for 20 seconds...you can probably read how it works and get the jist. maybe my memory will be better tomororw, i gotta go right now.

i woudln't worry about the pump heater, i've never needed it - gets down to negative 10 around here (well it's been colder than that but -10 is about as cold as i have experience driving in) and i've never noticed a difference.

if you're anal run them. if you're practical don't. there's no reason not to run them - it's all in your head. so - what's in your head? you're not going to get a clear answer, lots of folks that run them off road have replied - i offroad mine, no problem yet. i had a timing cover come loose and rub a hole in my ATF hose which started leaking......so they're less reliable:lol:

i missed it - why can't you use the EJ rack, EJ inner tie rod an EA outer tie rods? seems like the EA outer tie rods should thread onto the inner? i compared my XT6 and EJ stuff the other day and they look like the same dimensions and thread.

14" rims will not fit an OBW due to the brake calipers. you can swap to single pot front calipers to run the smaller wheels i'm in the same boat - i have dual pot WRX calipers to put on my XT6 but i've still got a good set of 14" wheels with snow tires so i'm waiting to wear those out another season or two first.

I've never seen one like that. There aren't many other gaskets right? Subaru doesn't sell a set like that. And since you'll want Subaru exhaust, intake, and front seals you'll probably just piece together the few others you need - valve covers?

to mock up the XT6 system would require quite a bit of wiring as it has the pump, power controller, computer, and sensors. you said you know where the speed sensor is - which does it use for the power steering input? like john said you'll have to have an XT6 steering column or fit the apparatus fromt he XT6 to yours if it's possible.

+1 you might want to describe what's going on or what you're trying to track down. people don't typically get a car up to operating temperature and start feeling around the engine bay for no reason....hey it's cooler by this bolt than that bolt, what does that mean? aftermarket thermostats are known to suck and cause all sorts of cooling issues. when you put one next to a subaru unit you can see an amazing difference visually.

steering racks are really easy to replace, much simpler, quicker, and cheaper than head gaskets.

You got hosed by an unscrupulous seller - they knew it was bad or were flipping it. Head bolts should not be replaced on this motor. If the mechanic is replacing head bolts - go somewhere else that knows how to do Subaru headgaskets. You do not replace the head bolts in subaru engines, any mechanic that doesn't know that or care to look up if they're torque to yield bolts shouldnt' be replacing head gaskets on your car. Typical rate for head gaskets is $1,200, that's what the local dealer charges. Good job for your mechanic replacing the timing belt - that's definitely a good idea and should be done. Lots of info on how to do a proper head gasket job on this forum, a saerch will bring all that up. Price and shop around. I don't know Oregon but there's a number of oregon people on here.

without coolant loss and overheating i would not assume the head gaskets are bad. of course it doesn't sound good, but that kind of info is important.

there's a high percentage of subaru's with the original belts that are 30 years old and in great shape. i've noticed some odd fraying on rare ocassions and have always thought "man what did the previous owner due to make it do that"? can't recall ever seeing any 80's stuff with frayed belts but i'm sure it's happened.

Woah - man, no one with feedback? That's odd, I thought lots of folks were running these? I've gotten their cams before and was happy with them, but never really got numbers on them - it was other folks vehicles I installed them in and the ones I installed in mine were aggressive, not meant for street, and I blew the short block up in a week in that car! Oil starvation, engine and cams seized so I didn't bother trying to keep them.

Dave, Ah ha, I think that describes mine as well - the 4-3 downshift at highway speeds. If you ever hear anything about that, post it! I don't really mind it, I've always disconnected the "shift resistor" on older 4EAT's to firm up the shifting, but this is particularly hard and the wife drives it a lot! Good luck.

I remember that thread too i think it was fairly recent, did you search for it? I thought it was something about 10 years..or i'm confusing that with the SRS system which is *supposed* to be checked every 10 years by Subaru. As a last resort someone on here would probably sell you used ones that weren't frayed for next to nothing.

Wow, that's amazing how hard to get this boot has been. What you want to do is avoid confusion by looking for EJ25 boots. Yours is an oddball since it's the only EJ22 OBW ever offered and it was only offered one year, for manual trans only. Good chance of getting screwed up trying to find the right boot with that info. Use 1997 or 1996 OBW EJ25 for looking up brake hardware for this as most/all of the EJ22's have a single piston set up.

does it do it all the time or only certain times? same cold/warm? my H6 OBW doesn't shift great, has some harshness to it, but i've never worried about it. it's most noticeable when passing up a mountain grade at interstate speeds, dont' really notice it for around town and normal driving. I avoid all additives for transmissions, drain and refill for now sounds good to me over the quick fix route. The LSD additive for the torque bind is one exception. good luck dave and report back.

crank/cam gears don't need switched on these older engine swaps, i've never done it. hard starts after engine swaps are often vacuum leaks. spray some starting fluid all around the engine bay, if it fires up while spraying you have a vacuum leak. i would also double check timing belt installation and plugs/wires. if you put aftermarket wires on it, that might be your issue. these engines should only get Subaru wires, they're not forgiving. i've seen brand new aftermarket wires make a car undrivable before.

The legacy auto's are great transmissions as far as automatics go. It's the 4EAT, they are very robust but your major concerns as with any vehicle is how it's been treated over the past 20 years. They "can" be very reliable but you've got 20 years working against it. Turbo's have more parts to have problems with over time. More hoses, clamps, places to leak and the turbo has seals itself so they can also fail. Failing turbos is a bad thing. If you need reliability I'd plan on changing fluids and a complete timing belt job - including all new pulleys (the ebay kits tend to be $80 for older stuff but i've never bought a kit for the turbo's before). Checking the turbo for shaft play would be nice and making sure you don't have old/brittle hoses.

woah that sounds just like me! let us know how it turns out.

sweet, i knew you wouldn't be in an old gen, so i was thinking that's what you were doing. rear EJ axles are different than EA axles, they aren't pinned on each side for one thing. actually - i forget when/how it changes or is different but a lot of EJ's don't have stubby shafts like the old school EA's and they don't have a stubby shaft on the hub side at all. i'm sure it's been done an talked about, someone here can pipe in with details. i've seen them all but never sat down and tried to put it together and delineate all the details.

Yes.

man your fired up about being cheap with that cheapo recall unit or rebuild yourself!? a search here showed someone that tried to swap but it didn't work. plugs were different, they swapped those and it didn't work. sounds like it's a bolt in but something else is up. probably a work around for that. i only spent a few seconds, might be more info.