idosubaru

I'm surprised these companies don't list more cross references, seems bizarre not to market your product well? Guess that's why college folks with marketing degrees can get a job, there's still companies that can't run a business right. I pulled the ones off my XT6 (which I install impreza bushings into) and will compare to the legacy. I'm confident they're all the same as well.

i have NAPA's "something ONE" or something like that, on my H6 OBW and am happy with those. i wouldn't worry too much about brakes except to get a decent quality pad (not the el-cheapo's at the chain stores), and replace all the clips. the ones i got from napa came with all new clips. do that and don't forget to grease the caliper slides/boots with brake caliper grease only.

yes - swap your ABS control unit. on your 97 legacy it should be either to the right of the glove box behind the dash area or under the passengers side seat. they are auto/manual specific. i just pulled one from a 97 Legacy GT like a couple days ago and it was behind the dash to the right of the glove box.

are the timing belts new though? they could be 10 years old? that's not typically acceptable on an interference engine particularly.

not really much to worry about it's only a few dollars anyway. most mechanics charge for their time...so $40 for him to document a bad gasket (since many places charge a minimum 1 hour) doesn't work for most people. it wouldn't even be worth my time and hassle driving around, waiting, diagnosing, mailing, calling, faxing.

Those pictures look just like the one i got - shiny black parts....which ended up being black paint and it was obviously cleaned and prepped to look good. I can see paint in the pic's. Mine came from Cleveland, don't recall the name of the place, probably doesn't matter I'm sure the risk is fairly low.

Moneypit - yes i've heard that before too about mileage - i've heard it's an emissions mandated thing. Low mileage isn't necessarily a great thing, that can mean lots of short trips which fall under harsh conditions and require more frequent oil changes because it's not good for the engine. That being said, it's still the same motor with the same head gaskets. Without quantitative proof i would not assume it's got any new updated gaskets. I've gotten a JDM engine with bad head gaskets before, fun, fun. They offered to send me two new head gaskets It was a good deal, but I'll pass on doing that again when there are plenty of other options. I can certainly match whatever price they give you. Their motors are not likely coming with timing belt gear and head gaskets, so we can hash that out. Email me if you're serious....looks like you are, but I'll run through what I got and we'll talk that way.

Somehow I found one in 4 seconds after searching for ever then posting this thread? Oh well, i'll peak if you have another link.

Anyone got a good picture of a 1999 white SUS sedan? Google and yahoo weren't given me much.

Anyone have any information on this? I've checked online subaru parts places. Subaru's opposed forces and other online retailes and can't find much. Looking for aftermarket steering rack bushings for my H6 OBW and I'm betting the impreza whiteline stuff fits, but can't confirm any interchangability between leg and imp stuff.

i would leave the rear main seal if it's not at all wet. they are the least likely seal to leak and the reason i say not too is the frequency with which they leak after being replaced. i've never had one leak, but i've seen enough of them leak by folks that know what they're doing.

Nah, bad deal, just get one in the US. The EJ25 headgaskets were blowing with 30,000 miles when they first came out...this isn't anything new or age related. They have issues, there's no point in paying top dollar for an unknown. For around the same price I'll sell you an EJ25 that I know is good - I have two - 80,000 and 120,000 mile motors. Gotta be better than an unknown that got shipped half way around the world. Keep in mind - any EJ25 you get you'll want to put new timing gear on it. At 10+ years old it's not wise to risk that on an interference engine. If the tbelt breaks you'll have internal engine damage.

maybe i didn't see something right, i didn't see you mention if the donor car is turbo or not? the axles and trans both need to be from turbo or non-turbo to match. the pedal assembly is my least favorite part of the deal, but i've heard it's easier if you remove the steering column first. haven't done one since hearing that tidbit of info. i would drop the donor trans. a transmission "can" come out way quicker than an engine. you can have the trans on the ground in 30 minutes, *you* will not even come close to having the engine and trans out by pulling that way. working from under the car is HORRIBLY annoying. on your back, fluids, dust, and rust getting your eyes, no room to work, harder to get your tools in place. it's far simpler and less actual work to do...but much more annoying and troublesome...so it depends on you, how easily/hard the thing comes apart (rust, etc) and your work space/tools. that being said on XT's and all combinations of EJ's (auto, AWD, EJ25, FWD, EJ22)...i've been able to pull and install the entire lump..engine and trans bolted together. if that's true on your loyale you can pull both at the same time and install both at the same time.

just finished fixing this. i did it all with screw drivers and brute force method. it was fun. just have to get in there and figure it out. take some visual notes: there are two rods, each is slightly different, note which you need. and also note their relation to each other and how you remove them so you can install the new one the same way. mine broke but the pieces still stayed in place. extract them and take note how you pulled it out so you can install the same way. takes some guiding around wires, speakers, and twisting at the right times. when installing i intalled the "pronged" "W"ish end first, snapped it into the center pivot, then installed the looped end (U shaped). it's under some serious tension. i laid in the trunk, feet up in the air holding the trunk where i wanted it...rather than it slamming me in the head (once) or locking me in the trunk (once). get it all in place with the u shaped section above the swing arm bracket that swings and needs the bar clipped onto it. with the swinging piece below the bar you can pry the bar with a screw driver and get the swinging piece to clip right into place. with a huge screw driver (flat blade) it only took like a few minutes....but took me a bit to figure out how to do it. good luck with my on the fly terminology, it'll make sense if you try to do it. LSi sedan and GT sedan bars were different but i installed the GT into the LSi and it's fine. no doubt just slighly different ratings for the spoiler.

will, awesome to see you stick around that's a plus! i guess you'd have to see what you think of the seats based on the posts/conversations from before? that Ej25 is interference so you'll want all the idlers and tensioner replaced...or I would anyway with that kind of mileage. the "newer" style tensioner is less reliable in my experience than the older style (like your 95 has). actually....you can swap the old style tensioners on newer cars if you have the bracket. torque bind is an easy fix - i fixed two this year just by flushing the fluid. one had the LSD additive added since a straight flush didn't fix it, the additive fixed it instantly (there's a thread about that). as for ticking, i guess surely the oil pump on the EJ22 has been resealed at some point? see if reseal or new pump fixes the EJ22 tick and drop the entire lump into the forester!?!? only thing is that's not a direct swap...you'd have to swap the EJ25 harness and cam sprockets onto the EJ22 block.

you've already been told the next steps and some questions were asked, I'd focus on following through on that. So yes, that's why i said the next step is to fix your problems and clear the code. trying to track a code with known issues is convoluted. hopefully you're lucky and it was that simple (yes that happens).

No they don't, can you send me the mirrors? Just kidding, I already have a set. HEATED MIRRORS IN FLORIDA? i'm going to recommend you be banned, that's just ridiculous. like you have any reason! Actually mine are going in my 96 Legacy LSi and I haven't done it yet but my guess is they are not there. The good thing though is that it's really simple to wire, I think it's just one wire...two max? Either way it's really simple, get the body side plugs just to make it even simpler and smoother and the button which is part of the mirror control.

already covered a good bit here and probably at NASIOC. no it's not plug and play. the twin turbo is not a direct fit item...but of course anything can be done with enough time, money, effort, etc.

you mentioned something being wrong - a broken hose? fix what is broken first then clear the codes and progress from there. why are you looking for the EGR? it's huge and attached to the rear of the drivers side head - close to the brake master cylinder, starter, that area. Running condition is not affected at all by the check engine light itself. Of course...if something is wrong it's possible to run bad and have a code. But just having a code does not mean the car will have any running problems, most of the time check engine lights come on with no other signs.

get a used one, which mount are you talking about the rear trans mount? post in the parts wanted forum for a mount, folks on here have parts cars and transmissions lying around. they rarely fail so they aren't worth much used, should be real cheap.

no, doesn't quite work like that. the only way that might work is if you can find the extremely rare automatic that didn't have EGR. i've had one car (97 or 98) impreza OBS that was automatic and no EGR. but those are probably like the most impossible subaru part to find, it's the only one i've ever heard of. in that case (oh man do i wish i would have saved that ECU), it might work.

yep, common and the fix is exactly what you did. yo'ure good to go!

the only down side is the EJ25 isn't worth much (if you're honest) after this treatment and prolonged driving. it's worth $200-$300 right now as someone would install gaskets and run it rather than the $1,000+ for a junk yard EJ25. since i've bought perfectly running low mileage EJ18's and EJ22's for those amounts (even less), the economics work out pretty good. but finding cheap EJ's might be hard as of late, i know Dave (and myself) pretty much bought all of them last year around western PA. maybe they have more now that he's slowed down?!?

okay nice, so this is a very small button only kind of contraption i'm looking for? i did follow all the wires from the box and it got me no where. found some going to a sensor with a LED - i guess for the alarm, some connecting to plugs going up towards the ignition maybe...and then others all bundled and hard to trace...guess the button is up in there somewhere. so the button is close to the control box...like inches away?

thanks a lot nathan - yeah all i want is remote entry, so sounds like aftermarket might be the way to go.