idosubaru

"a front end issue", maybe? i'm not picturing any issue that this would help diagnose. i would be very careful, like huge blocks to make sure it aint going anywhere.

did you pull the distributor out of the housing at all? like up and then back down? if so you're distributor is installed. an ignition wire, rotor, or cap is the problem.

oh come on you're gutless! just kidding, i never saw that. well good you got heads and all then, you just need a block.

Oh man R you're taxing my memory, it's been awhile and I can't even recall which vehicles did it, but I know I distinctly remember it like you said - it stood out how bad it was in specific instances and not noticeable any time else. I'm inclined to think the fronts...either because i'm blindly assuming it, have a faint memory, or seems those would get the hottest in that situation. I would think you have one of those temperature guns? Those things are awesome, get one if not, you'll start using it for all sorts of stuff you couldn't think of before having one. Next time you go down a ramp hit them all and see if temps tell you anything. I'm sure you know, the rotor temps are all over the place depending how/where you hit them. If one is that bad I would think it would stand out, but I just got my temp gun this year and never used it in those situations.

The bellhousings will differ, but it will still bolt up just fine. 97's won't have the external filters that the 00 has but that doesn't have any bearing on the swap working. As far as electronics, I'm inclined to think it'll work but I haven't done it. The boxes (physical trans case) are identical minus the two very minor issues above. The only issue I can think of is with speedometer and speed sensors - not sure if/when they changed the speed sensor set ups. Also - the final drive ratio needs to match. They will be either 4.11 or 4.44's, but that's easy to solve as well, you have the entire parts car so you could swap the rear diff too if you have to match.

Guess I missed something but your original post says TOD? that doesn't require engine replacement at all. if you got a cheap EA82 just run the thing forever with TOD, turn your radio up. throw an oil pump and new seals at it and call it a day.

if you're looking for a cheap EA beater just buy one and do the headgaskets. if it's done right and not a turbo they can last a really long time. problem is their value isn't in the vehicle at all, zero value. they're value is in you can make 100,000 miles really cheap with them, that's about it. There's a few that can get 35-40 mpg but noone wanting good mileage wants an older car like this. Complete EA82's: 1-866-480-7278 $350 in Gary, IN 219-981-0122 in Merriville, IN 1-800-225-9025 $150 for just a short block in Columbus, IN

I've definitely had rotors that vibrate only when heated. I've had some that would only vibrate coming off of highway exit ramps at high speed, but otherwise felt normal. Fairly good vibrating too, not just a light pulsing.

+1 to what GD said. Ebay sells kits you can copy those. You can also buy the rubber connectors and pipe and make your own. Some filters are also not as efficient and require oiled filters which can contaminate the MAF sensor wires if that's the style sensor it has, not sure about all EJ's, maybe some are MAP? There's little to be gained. You might *think* or *feel* better about some mod's but realistically speaking you're not gaining anything. So depends what you want - novelty and *feel* or a real world car that moves, has dyno and quarter mile times that show it. Should be some info, pictures and such on here, ebay, and NASIOC, it's been done plenty of times before.

Oh right, I'm not as familiar with the older OBDI stuff in terms of connectors and such, I'm sure he'll chime in. A built EJ22 like you're talking about would be easy. I have an EJ22 intake manifold installed on my EJ18 heads as well, bolts right up, basically exactly what you're doing but mine is OBDII.

Most of us are aware of this, but this it just general auto information, not anything specific to the question concerning EA/EJ differences. Older vehicles are more poorly maintained...grease, caliper boots, seized calipers, not babied like newer cars, cheaper brake parts are used....but even still have fewer warped rotors?

Radiator hoses. Not necessary (i think i've done both ways), but probably a good idea to unbolt the rear trans crossmember so it can "hang down" and put less stress on the trans crossmember bushings. very easy to do anyway, just a few bolts (4 i think).

EJ22 and EJ25 engine side harness plugs are the same, so that won't matter. You can run either engine on either ECU. They are also interchangeable. So you could have: EJ22 body harness EJ25 DOHC engine with intake and harness EJ25 ECU I'm not sure what harnesses you keep referring too (body or engine or both) but it should be easily doable either way. As far as wiring and ECU's - in 95-98 EJs you can swap EJ22 engines and EJ25's all day long, just pull one out and install the other, there's no work to the wiring, harness, or ECU. they're all interchangeable. All DOHC EJ25's (available 96-99) will plug right into the EJ22 harnesses. EJ22's are more reliable as the EJ25's have head gasket, piston slap, and rod bearing issues on occasion. It's personal preference since there's a variety of goals - reliability, performance, costs, etc.

knock sensor install is posted on here, complete with pictures from the FSM. the FSM is way better than chiltons/haynes anyway, they're more like kids books - nice to get started on but forgotten about once you learn your way around.

Same here, I pulled the door panel and looked at the wiring harness of my 1997 GT and I saw no heated mirror plug. There was a plug, I guess for tweeters? By courtesy lights - do you mean the lights down at the bottom corner of the door? The GT has those, but I found no heated mirror plug. I also checked my 96 LSi for foglight connectors and it didn't have those.

1996 Legacy Lsi. I found a connector taped up inside the door panel wiring harness. What is it for? I'm thinking tweeter speakers? I originally thought it would be for the heated side view mirrors, but no such luck. I have a set of Legacy heated side view mirrors and the plug is different, so it's not that.

Yeah the midpipes rust out far more often than the headers. I got one off ebay for $100 or so earlier this year for a friends 97 Legacy. Very easy to replace, it's like 4 bolts, but the bolts/nuts are usually rusted in place so they need cut/grinded off.

You are exactly right, the bolts are not the issue. Gaining clearance for the sump and baffles in the pan is the issue. The pan has baffle plates with only a small margin for moving and tilting, giving it no clearance to come around the crossmember. Engine has to be lifted up. As for the gasket if you like an actual gasket you can make one. Subaru used to have gaskets and they weren't that reliable, folks started coating them with RTV to make sure they sealed. Probably because the pan holes get concave or not smooth or something, but the gaskets would often re-leak on older models.

yep, they just get noisy and annoying but are completely benign. I rip them off. But that causes catastrophic issues and you should never do it because things burn and die and blow up (disclaimer for all the anal people out there).

Yep - EJ's go through rotors more than old school stuff. Like you, I never bother with rotors on XT6's. On EJ's i'm starting to have them turned or buy new rotors much more often. Heavier? More HP?

You have a tough scenario here - you originally had problems to begin with. We have no idea what that is. Then you reversed the battery polarity and fried some other stuff. Let's keep this simple: Does the car turn over? Does it get spark? Are the timing belts good? A bad distributor (crank angle sensor) is my guess, but there's certainly multiple things that could be the issue here.

I think installation glitch or a bad hub is the culprit. Hub can be hosed by the press. I'd go ahead and replace the hub with the bearings. You can find a complete used rear assembly cheaper than the bearing job parts probably. Some bearings used to come in packaging grease and needed cleaned before packing. Not sure which ones that applies to though.

Good news - looks like a zero dollar repair to me. Your exhaust pipe is not rotating 15 degrees, you would have been posting a thread about a VERY loud exhaust leak. By the picture looks to me like your heat shields, like all of us are saying, are loose. That hose clamp is not supposed to be there and was someone's attempt in the past to quiet the heat shields. They need to be screwed or welded into place. Clamps are temporary, I'd avoid doing that. Or remove the heat shields altogether, which I've done on quiet a few of my vehicles.

If I remember correctly those plastic speedo gears aren't too expensive from Subaru? might be worth having a new part than old plastic.

Crank seal 2 cam seals 2 cam cap orings Oil pump - 3 total - one pump to block gasket, oring and shaft seal Water pump gasket (if you replace water pump) Thermostat and gasket * get a Subaru tstat, the aftermarkets suck, they look like toys compared to the OEM. The Subaru seals are better, I've had aftermarkets be problematic in EA82's...very rare as I've used them fine lots of times in the past too, but Subaru is 100% so far.