idosubaru

I'll save you $1,000 - I'll do it for $1,100. When are you available? Okay, well avoid that dealer or tread very carefully around them. $2,100 is a complete rip off for this job. The transmission doesn't even have to come out to do it, a few hours tops and parts are not that expensive. It's well documented here, I've recently replied to numerous threads on how to address this issue. Search for "torque bind" practice using the search function. With proper care you might get away without putting any work into it. I just helped a friend fix one, the torque bind went away with a few fluid changes. You'll find this isn't all that bad and you have a few options. Spend some time reading and then ask questions once you have a basic idea of your options.

Those part numbers are for the non-air suspension bushings and Subaru didn't even get it right. They came into today and were wrong. Did some digging and came up with these which should hopefully be right: Rear air strut top mount upper bushing: 21047GA870 Rear air strut top mount lower bushing: 21029GA050

technically you can do anything you want with enough time and money. you could fit your EJ25 manifold to an older diesel tractor motor if you wanted to, or pay me $10,000 and i'll make it happen. *could* it be done, yes. the EJ25 intake manifold is different and doesn't bolt onto the EJ22. but even if it did you still have a major problem because the EJ22 block (heads) have no EGR fittings machined into them. there's no easy bolt-on way to make the EGR system fit on the EJ22. look at the EGR on your EJ25 and realize that the hole and fitment in the head is not available on the EJ22 so it's not simple. with some research you might find a way to make your 98 *think* it's a 95 and not trigger the light. that would be my plan and it's been done before, i'm just not sure if there's any wiring differences between the 98 and 95. might be as simple as installing a 95 or 96 ECU (not sure if 95 ECU's are different plugs?) from a manual trans (without EGR), then no code. EJ22 and EJ25 ECU's are interchangeable all day long with no noticeable differences.

this is covered in previous swap threads. the 95 manual is likely to be non-EGR and your existing 98 EJ25 has EGR so you'll have a check engine light to deal with. it's a direct swap, plug and play, and will run fine (i have the same swap) but with a check engine light. my state doesn't care, so i just ignore it. theoretically you can properly ground the MT pin in some ECU's for manual trans.

on the H6 OBW's like mine (i'm sure the EJ25's are the same) the foglights use headlight bulbs. standard 9006 or something like that, forget the exact number.

Hey nipper - got any pic's to attach of your lifted OBW? A friend is looking at a legacy and I wanted to show him a lifted one.

the sylvania silverstars seem to do fine, i just installed them last week in mine, they're a step up from the stock.

can you buy the car you want and a used dedicated (cheap) towing vehicle? i absolutely hate driving my truck, but it sure is nice to have. i drive it a few times a year. if you're only towing that few times a year then maybe a forester is okay. keep in mind it is far less safe than a truck when towing heavy loads and you'll be okay. trailer brakes would be nice, hopefully you're driving flat lands, etc. the dangers of towing become apparent the first time you have a trailer start oscillating or someone/something/some animal "appear" in front of you. i'm fortunate that i was in a truck each time those things happened. if a full size truck gets pushed around in those situations i wouldn't want to see what happens to a car and the brakes.

You can run all day long with the FWD fuse in place, it won't hurt anything. As a matter of fact you should to prevent strain on all sorts of other components from the binding. Depending how the Duty C is failing, the fuse might not work. It sounds like your clutches might be fine and your Duty C is hosed. Plan on replacing the Duty C for sure. You have the option of leaving your existing clutches since it seems like the solenoid is the problem but many folks would go ahead and replace all of it while it's apart. If the car has been well maintained, tires rotated, not improperly towed, fluid changed, etc - then it's likely the clutches are fine. Binding is often caused by simple things, make sure these are checked: 1. make sure all your tires match in size and tread depth. rotate frequently 2. change your transmission fluid (all of it, one drain and refill is not sufficient) There's some great threads and pictures on here, just keep searching. You can drop the rear extension housing (which has the Duty C and clutches in it) without removing the transmission. All in all it's not a terrible job. There's another thread with all the part numbers you'll need (though it doesn't include the part numbers for the clutches).

indeed he is having that happen as well, so that's definitely the problem. i suppose he's seeing this since i sent him the link.

The front half is the part that varies.

Look up the codes and find out what they are. A google search or search here would tell you (us). As for overheating, these motors are notorious for needing to be properly bled when you fill the radiators back up again. If you didn't properly bleed it then that is your problem. Search for bleeding or "burp" / "burping" on here for how to properly do it.

Reliability isn't likely to be an issue. The EJ25 has been around for almost 15 years now with it's kinks worked out and Subaru hasn't changed much with transmissions hardly at all in decades. Very reliable and robust. Maintenance. Consistent tire rotations and transmission oil and diff oil changes every 30,000 miles if you're towing. At 100,000 you'll have typical timing belt job which depending on age and condition would include water pump, oil pump reseal, cam seals, and timing pulleys. Based on the questions you're asking I would think you might find some value in looking up reviews and getting feedback on local dealers and who will be doing the service/warranty for you. I guess the H6 isn't an option since Subaru still refuses to put a manual trans behind it those goobers?! Forester, or Subaru's in general, are a poor choice for any long term, consistent, or heavy towing.

anything is possible with enough time/money. my guess is it's already been done. is there a baja board out there? probably is and i'm sure someone has already done it, i'm 100% I could pull it off so i'm sure it's been done. if you're paying someone to do it, it's probably not a good option as custom swaps like this are very costly. and yes the Baja is not hard. not being an auto you might have some trickiness fabbing up a center console to work, probably start with whatever the baja is based off of - impreza or legacy chassis? easiest way to do it is to find a wrecked vehicle with a manual trans. you need: transmission, clutch assembly, cables or hydraulic hoses, driveshaft (different length), linkages for the shifter, console, clutch, flywheel. axles are the same between auto and manual trans, so you can keep those. i'm fairly certain any 1991-2005 Impreza (non-WRX) or Legacy trans will easily swap in place. the trans dimensions are all identical, axles are the same. for the baja - the driveshaft length is a question, use whatever driveshaft the chassis is based off of.

piston slap is not a problem if you can tolerate it - turn the radio up! there's no worries about future failure, reliability, or break down.

the reason you can't find an answer is that you can't fix or mitigate a problem with something that doesn't fix the problem. it's kind of like "how much air pressure do i need in my tires to fix my wheel bearings?" that's a crude analogy but even still, piston slap is not fixed by oil viscosity. try a few different weights and see what you like. if there's a particular weight that helps your car then go with it, but there's no "one size fits all" solution here except to replace the piston(s).

He says it doesn't have an alarm, but sure seems like it has something. Wouldn't it be making a noise if it was the alarm?

actually - it's usually just the fuel filler pipe, they're cheaper and easy to replace. when you work on them, pull the plastic cover off and throw it away, they trap mud right up against the pipe and causes it to rust. gas tank probably isn't that hard and you could try and find a used one or have the old one repaired. someone on the Subaruxt.com board recently had his tank repaired. they somehow clean and treat it. good luck!

Friend has a 99 forester, with a bizarre issue. No Security system and he already had it disconnected for awhile. The lights are blinking with or without the key in....he's 3 hours away so I'm not really familiar with which lights are blinking but I believe it's the rear brake lights and interior lights even I think he said. It blinks for a while, stops, then starts again, repeat. He here's a clicking sound by the steering column-ish area. He just got done repairing a sheared keyway/crank pulley issue but I can't think of what that would have done? I'm thinking it has to be the hazzard light system or something? I have no idea how to guide him. I told him about USMB, I'll send him a link to this and see if he shows up.

it's a huge Army style tent with a wood stove, you can stand up inside the entire thing and probably 5 can comfortably live out of it with tons of gear, etc. i have no desire to "camp", i'm there to hunt. the woodstove is awesome when you're trudging through rain and snow and completely soaked - it allows you to dry out and be comfortable after exhausting hunts and lugging hundreds of pounds of stuff for miles at 10,000 feet - not an easy task. it's complete different from "camping".

you could even debate that the covers are less reliable since they can come loose and rub into the timing belts if they fail or something hits or pushes them. theres more evidence for that, ive seen it happen, than all the emo reactionary arm chair commentators talking about things that dont actually happen...ha..ha.....aaaaaaahhhhn

the tie rods are easily replaceable. inner and outer both unthread easily, its just one more step and a couple minutes more than doing the boot.

yeah exactly, the Factory Service Manual says something about Hogwartz or something...

yes to all that he said, they are really tight fitting, just keep going at it and it'll eventually go.

31 freeway, nice!