idosubaru

iv'e shipped them before - i'd guess $15-$25 but not sure.

someone on the XT boards said it's probably not sensitive enough to trigger with a simple audio signal, sounds like it does? they also suggested it will "cut on and off", like during quiet parts or between songs so to speak it won't have a signal so will turn off? it's so cheap i might try it after your next response.

not too long ago folks on Subaru boards were suggesting all the time that EJ25's don't have issues or that they were "normal" or minor. where are they now? was kind of following those comments with a craiglist link showing 5 bad ones for sale in one week, :-\. anyway, they aren't all bad, it's not like everyone has problems. Dave and I are in Subaru rich areas, so there's plenty around that don't have problems. but it's not one of Subaru's shining stars. EJ vehicles really are less reliable in some ways than older ones. wheel bearings, struts, head gaskets, lower end bearings, piston slap, and even torque bind are far more prevalent than older models. kind of sad to go backwards. dave - i gave him your phone number (sorry i didn't ask first?) but have not heard back from him. glad your meeting went okay, wow!

throttle could be sticking, clean the plate. tune up - plugs, wires? any check engine light? bad TPS.

yep, we've been seeing Ej25's with lower end problems for quite some time. not hard to find them with rod knock either, i'm sure Dave will post up, he's got a garage full of them and sold me one (knowingly!)

Are you sure it's properly charged? How are you testing the pressures and what are you getting for readings? If it was overcharged the compressor won't come on. It's possible it was overcharged previously but ambient conditions kept it *just* under the limit. Now that conditions have changed maybe it's finally over that pressure limit for the pressure switch. When you turn it on is the A/C compressor coming on at all? Can you see it engaging for a second when the A/C is turned on? And then does it - shut off, cycle on and off, stay on, or never click on at all?

That's an enormous increase in power going through the worst transmission subaru ever made. I wouldn't do it, but cool stuff if you get it to work. Technically speaking the 3AT is all vacuum operated or whatever so I'd guess it could *work* since there's no electronics to mess with, though the vacuum lines and whatever the trans needs would need to be addressed. If work is preventing the trans swap then it would seem an engine swap is a rather biggish step. If cost is preventing the trans swap then I would think the entire retrofit project is probably not the best decision. It's nice to do it right rather than max yourself out financially only to do it half-way. If you need to retain the auto you could wait until you're ready to move into the legacy's or impreza's, they're getting really cheap, and I was getting offers for free ones a few years ago. It's not hard at all to find one for next to nothing even in good running condition. Just wait for one that needs a bit of work and buy it cheap and fix it. If you're up for an engine swap then some minor work should be cake.

the good thing is Phase II Ej25's don't strand you, they start leaking but don't overheat until the coolant is low. so 99+ forester or 00+ anything else is much better than the older DOHC stuff, those leave you stranded as soon as they start to go.

Nowhere close, I can ship it, simpler. I have a complete parts car so I'd have the hose you need as well. Just let me know for sure which one it is that you need. No, GT rack isn't anything special. Subaru steering racks haven't changed for the most part in decades, the GT rack will be identical to yours.

can you replace blown headgaskets? intake won't bolt onto an EJ22 unless it's a 99+ EJ22 which then needs the cam sprockets swapped to work usually. not sure about swapping the heads to an EJ22.

Your check engine light isn't on? If it is - get the code and let us know what it is. Very typical cylinder misfire symptoms, which means it probably needs plugs and wires. When was the last time it had plugs and wires replaced? Also - avoid any aftermarket wires and use NGK only plugs on this engine. I've seen them be undrivable with brand new wires from the auto parts store. There's a small chance you could need a coil pack.

Just replace the rack, they're easy to replace and Subaru racks fail so rarely that doing anything but buying a used one isn't really worth it. I have a 1997 Legacy GT steering rack I can check the tie rod conditions, I think they were new. $75. I may be headed to Maryland area in the next week too so delivery possibly?

that impreza was probably swapped, think they all did get the EJ18.

Yeah, I just have the power and ground wired to a switch. Thanks for the suggestion on the DEI part, that's awesome, sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. *** Looks like this is what you're referring too? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11263_Directed+55000+.html Detects as little as 5 volts - i wonder what the output is of my phone? Guess I can try to measure that somehow.

Have an inline FM transmitter in the XT6 and would like it to turn on when the phone is plugged into the jack. Is that possible? I'm not sure what kind of signal the music is that plays through those lines but I imagine it's rather small or light duty coming out of my phone? I'm wondering if I could tap into those lines and have it trip a relay to turn the transmitter on when I plug the jack into the phone? Can relays work on a signal that weak?

Friends Phase II EJ25 (03 Forester) lost a timing belt. I'm trying to help him out. I'm suspecting only valve damage like in the old DOHC engines? Is there any chance of something worse? Is it likely that both sides are bad?

i've been meaning to ask, can these be "converted" in any way? like can we end up with a 3.7 or 3.9 final driver rear VLSD like you can when swapping guts between the older styles?

struts and rack will bolt right up. those early cars sat so low to the ground you're not going to notice a difference in ride height at all. i put 97 impreza OBS front struts on a legacy before and it was fine.

cams and associated trigger points for the cam sensor are different. good chance you can work around it.

if it goes away with FWD fuse the fluid additive fixes it. if not then duty c needs replaced. if fluid change fixes it, it will require a few and some driving - 20 miles probably for me. more details all over the usmb on all different questions and scenarios.

what kind of car? year, make, model, trans, etc? have you checked the fuses? if the cruise control switches are on the steering wheel then i'd guess the connector behind the steering wheel. but i don't think many (or any) EJ's have them on the steering wheel.

wait until you start doing more EJ stuff, lots of bad struts and shocks. very annoying, another area where subaru's reliability decreased. i have right now in my garage a few bad struts, broken coil springs, leaky struts, etc, all EJ stuff. i too have never seen failed EA/ER coil spring struts, though i'm sure it happens. just funny discrepancy.

only one person said that. in general it's not what most people are looking for as it isn't documented and would require figuring things out. few people are looking for that kind job. hold up - this will get confusing if you're throwing out conflicting info - you said you wanted to replace a 97 with a 2000 (see title of thread). now that sentence says you want to replace a Phase 2 EJ25 with an EJ22? those are two totally different ball games. the EJ22 into EJ25 swap is easy, the other is not, which are you asking about? Are you talking about pull it yourself yards? that's another story and not something everyone has available. The going rate for EJ25's is way over $100. The database of all the junkyards in the entire state of PA start at $800 and go up to $1,650 for a Phase II EJ25. That's more indicative of what the average person has to pay that doesn't have some special circumstance - subaru's everywhere, connections, pull it yourself yards, etc. good luck, the fuel injectors are not going to be an issue.

4 cylinder XT axles don't work in an XT6. make sure whatever you get is off a 6 cylinder XT6. you mentioned you needed a new power steering pump. the pump doesn't need replaced, the brushes inside of it need replaced. they're less than $20. clean it up and replace the brushes. even if you have another pump it would be wise to clean it up and replace the brushes. very easy to do and cheap. XT6 power steering pump takes a special XT6 only fluid. Runs a little strange - it's your CTS connector, it looks old and original in the picture. Replace the connector. Replacing the CTS wont' fix it, the connection will just be green and nasty. Look in your engine bay picture in this thread. Just to the left and behind the alternator, it's *touching* the alternator in the picture, is a brownish sort of connector. That's your problem child. You're welcome!

nah, you didn't fail, you found one and got the USMB too. they're both great boards, my personal favorites no doubt. most of us are members of both boards, the XT group has more traffic from XT guru's if you need XT specific info.