idosubaru

okay, i need a visual and will take a look at one first. i don't even know what an E10 deep socket is. i don't have a tool supplier since i'm not a mechanic or business, i just get tools from wherever. i'll look around, seems like i might not be attempting this before i leave wednesday.

this "deep" E10 torx socket bit thing - are these typically available locally? i'll stop and check today.

make sure all your boots are good. sand destroys axle joints extremely fast.

i just happened to be plugging around the XT forum and found the link to the Suaru XT FSM's which will include the oil pump/timing belt change info: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4812&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=75 good luck

what do you mean "Your oil pump is getting ready to go"? let's start by figuring out what the problem is, it is rare to need a new oil pump. how about just resealing it - it's $20 for the gasket, one oring and a seal. as for replacing the oil pump, it's not that bad. 1. remove power steering/alt and other belts and clutch pulley on water pump (if equipped). 2. remove fans and radiator for your first attempt at this. 3. remove oil dipstick tube. 4. remove crank pulley (22mm socket, VERY TIGHT - you'll need air tools or a breaker bar or a 3 foot pipe to put over the end of your socket handle - or use the starter trick). 5. remove timing covers (and throw them away!!!! i don't reinstall them). 6. remove timing belts 7. remove 5 10mm oil pump bolts. go backwards. make sure crank pulley is REALLY tight. over on the subaruxt.com forum we have hte actual Subaru FSM (Factory Service Manual) that details every single step and has pictures too. you should down load that and read through the oil pump replacement section. the 4 cylinder Subaru XT has the same engine as your loyale. THere are a few minor differences, none of which you'll see doing hte timing belt and oil pump. all of that is identical.

if it blew headgaskets, there's some gray area here, but flushing the cooling system is a good idea. if you didn't assemble with assembly lube or oil, prime it first. they often run like crap after being apart (particularly true of the ones with hydraulic VLA's). just hang tight and let those puppies pump up. and don't mind lots of smoke, good chance of residual coolant in the exhaust depending how the gaskets blew or how you removed the intake manifold/hoses (coolant often ends up in the pipes and takes awhile to burn off). good lucK!

clarify - do you mean remove an EA82 and install an EA82T? just install it and run it without a turbo. someone recently did that with an XT6 and it was okay, maybe it would stand a chance? i'm with GD, the adding a turbo gig would just be miserable in so many ways. they aren't the epitome of reliability and would require lots of other bits and fabrication to make work. You could entertain swapping pistons, it's possible without splitting the block and then have the actual EA82 set up you need.

you very well could have a simple fix, don't slap another transmission in just yet. a friend just bought a cheap subaru that got three quotes from local dealers "needing a transmission" for thousands of dollars no doubt. i helped my friend fix it for about $50 and not much time. also - most common issues are already found on here.

get another solenoid. i mean the EA, ER, and Legacy air ride parts are probably mostly the same, if that's so then a used solenoid should cost about $5. and actually, the air suspension is a royal pain (keep in mind, i love mine and nurture it). if you like reliability your best options are: completely ditch it and get coil overs. completely refresh the air suspension. replace all the orings at every fitting and de-rust, smooth, and paint all the struts. the solenoids can sort of be pulled apart and reconditioned. they have a small spring thing in them, stretch it out to help it regain it's former strength. that's for the air struts, i've never disassembled the tank solenoid though. we have lot sof info on this stuff at subaruxt.com

Trying to figure out if I have time to do the LSD conversion on the 3.9 in the XT6 before I leave next Wednesday. Rough estimate on doing the conversion itself? 1 hour....5 hours? Any parts I should replace while it's apart - like the rear axle stub seals? That might put a damper on it...getting those seals any time soon? Does anyone know where the conversion is since searching for LSD probably isn't going to work?

Oh man, thanks a lot but I'm in Morgantown, WV now. It's a friends car, trying to help him out so I'll get it figured out up here. Thanks again.

question - are you supposed to bleed the slave them the main cylinder or main cylinder then the slave? they both have a bleeder screw. oh man, i love you guys, that sounds awesome!!!

they didn't bleed air out of the coolant properly. search for "burp" "burping" or "bleeding" coolant on here and you'll find all you need to know. thermostat isn't the problem and doesn't need to be touched. although with all that maintenance done i'd install a new Subaru thermostat. that's a subaru only part, the aftermarket parts are insanely cheap, obvious just by looking at them.

I did fill it up and hand pump it once or twice before installing. I'll go try some more. Glad to hear they're a pain and not something else is wrong. I did accidentally compress the slave and squish a lot of fluid out while installing though so probably lost most of what i had in there.

not sure. some early impreza's, the 93's for sure, had a bizarre spline difference compared to all other EJ's. might be manual trans only and not auto's so i'm not sure. they are used in older EA non-turbo trans conversions because of this. (i think you may know that already right?) the main reason you can't though is the tone ring. the 93 tone ring is on the hub, the 2004 tone ring is on the axle. to make it work you'd have to knock the tone ring off the 2004 axle and tap it onto the 93. i can get axles from 2001+ Soobs for $30 each around here. they are much better, have better boots, will last longer, and have the tone ring on them already. doesn't sound worth it to me for a 16 year old axle.

replaced the slave cylinder and hose and the "master cylinder" (whatever that's called on the hydro clutch), was also previously replaced. i can't seem to get the pedal right. pedal is loosey-goosey and sticks to the floor. i've bled, and bled, and bled. what am i missing, don't see any leaks.

your question is confusing. why would you need a 95 intake if you have a 97/98 engine? just use the entire 96,97,98 engine? again, this is all covered, sounds like you're confused about something. just make sure any engine you get has EGR. if you get a non-EGR engine, just putting an EGR intake (95 for instance) won't sovle the problem because the EGR is plumbed into the engine (Head). so unless you want to do a head job (swap out an EGR equipped head), doubt you'll want to do that.

There's notable differences in all the items mentioned, age and all in mind.

no you can not. this is all answered here, some searching will tell all you need to know.

I'm not all complaints, I tout Subaru enough too. 10 strokes for every kick or so. really in discussion mode, not trying to bash. I honestly am curious if major make-overs or other makes generally have this happen. I don't have a need for dual range and never talk about it (I shouldn't say that one week from trying to go up a mountain access road to 10,000 feet in Colorado?) They took away dual range, center diff lock (which is amazing), and rear clutch type LSD's. Point is that for that they add these *features* - torque bind, Duty C failures, and a Differential Equation for figuring out what the final drive is! Torque bind and Duty C failures are non-existent in 4EAT XT6's. Same with all the other things I've listed, almost non-existent except maybe struts, but those aren't as robust.

I'm pretty sure most DOHC engines are interference, but make sure first before assuming there's damage. Also - if just the cam snapped, it might not actually be any damage. A leak down test will determine if there's any damage without any engine disassembly. The leak down kits should come with directions or just look it up online.

More room for adventure? :-\ They've done nothing but gone backwards - bring back the dual range, center diff lock and clutch type LSD!! I am disappointed too. I would be curious to know if it's an industry wide loss of quality. But I'm sure that's unanswerable. This isn't even an EJ25 discussion, it goes way beyond that. Loss in reliability with EJ vehicles: EJ25 head gasket, piston slap, lower end failure, torque bind, wheel bearings, struts, knock sensors, cylinder misfire sensitivity, yellowing headlights, rusting fuel filler pipes, sway bar end links. All of those are nearly absent on old gen stuff (or very, very rare). The discrepancy between old gen torque bind and EJ stuff is unbelievable. I can't complain too much since I've also made a lot of money on these issues! I do like all of the upgrades in interior, trim, size, etc. So I do still like them, but I think wheel bearings and struts have me about run out of patience right now. As for windows, XP and Vista are quite reliable (not an MS fan, but MS has at least come a long way in terms of crashing). Keep equipment, software, antivirus up to date and it will perform well.

the impreza engine and trans has the ability to outlast your willingness to keep doing this kind of maintenance on it. that EJ22 and trans can last a REALLY long time if you keep up with maintenance and minor glitches like this. It wasn't hard at all (I just did this over the summer to ours before we sold it to a friend), just took time and make sure none of your wires "fall" down to places you can't get. The body side doesn't have much room to play with...although if you were adventurous you might find an access point inside by removing some interior trim, don't know. good luck.

someone else has a thread (posted to today) about this same issue. you can ground an ECU pin to make it think it's a manual trans, which also didn't have EGR and the EGR code will go away...or at least one of them. problem is there are multiple codes associated with removing the EGR and the other codes are still present. in short it's not easy, but i realize being from Maryland you can't have the check engine light on. i have the same issue on my swapped legacy but since I moved to WV (from Westminster, MD down the road from you actually) I don't have to worry about the check engine light so I ignore it. You do have one option that would be guaranteed to work and that is to install the original intake manifold with EGR (or get another manifold that has it) and install it. Then plumb the EGR valve into the exhaust. Haven't seen anyone do it, but it would work but would require some custom piping from the original EGR location in the head to the actual exhaust header itself.

there's two differentials - front and rear. you would need to either run one (so make it FWD or RWD) or install 4.44's into the front diff. problem is the front diff being integrated with the trans and requiring some fairly complicated backlash adjustment is not easy to swap. rear is simple.