idosubaru

i forget - do EJ's have coolant ports in the intake manifolds like EA/ER series engines? if so, make sure you're not loosing coolant there. also - are you sure it's loosing it internally? coolant system operating properly (when full!)? you didnt' have the heads pressure tested before, which means you probably didn't have the heads machined either. i'd entertain the idea of doing the job right this time and having the heads machined and tested. if the heads are good then you'll have to wonder if the engine is good. how bad did this thing overheat? did you buy it with blown gaskets? be sure to use Subaru gaskets this time. what did you use the first time? yours is older so i'm not that concerned but if you had a newer EJ engine i'd be questioning anything but a Subaru gasket. also...might be simpler to just find a good used motor, they're a dime a dozen. i bought one for $150 two years ago in great shape, 100,000 miles, 6 month warranty from a yard, and it's in great condition and runs well. put lots of miles on it since then. i'd rather do that than mess with this motor any more if you can find reasonable deals around you. where you're located i'd think engines are everywhere like out here.

i use EJ rack mounts on older subarus (EA82) - so the mounts are the same and they look nearly identical. swap inner and outer EA82 tie rods onto it and i bet you're really close. like chux said the only possible issues are with the fluid lines and output angle of the rack input shaft (connected to steering wheel). seems like that should be workable since the fluid lines are just lines and the input side has a ujoint so you have some flex there. be nice to measure/size one up. but if you can fab and play with some metal and stuff you should be fine. might be easier to just take the rack out and try to replace those end seals or have a machine shop do it? that's generally not recommended but in a situation like yours i have no clue what your options are as far as parts go.

the stock Bridgestone RE92's have never gotten rave reviews. I never minded them but wasn't in awe of them either. I would not buy those new. I look through tireracks online reviews and other places probably have them as well. Sometimes you can get lesser name brands with great performance without the name brand price.

yes, but you'll likely need to swap cam sprockets between the two. wiring harness won't matter since the forester manifold bolts up to the impreza engine so you'll be using the same harness (not true of all EJ swaps, but this one).

axles are the same. only thing i can think of is axle designed changed around 2000-ish, not sure exactly when though. but you're still probably safe - the only difference is in the tone ring. on older models it's part of the hub on newer models it's part of the axle. thing is - the axles are still interchangeable to some extent. the newer axles are nicer (more convolutions on the boots) so i knock the tone ring off of newer axles and install them on older subaru's. it's just an aluminum ring and easily slides off the end of the axle. so...i guess the opposite should work - install the tone ring onto your older axles. then again - the 2000 might be just before that change took place, not sure, but either way it should work i do it all the time. as for diff, as you know gear ratio is the only question. will depend on auto verses manual, i would assume the forester is manual like your OBW? if that's the case the forester is probably 4.11, not sure about the OBW but it'll be either 3.9 or 4.11. if you have the EJ25 OBW then i bet they're the same, but check first. if you're looking into swapping parts the entire hub assembly/front spindle should interchange with your OBW as well so you can just swap that too. SOHC timing belts are EASY! woo hoo! easier than the older DOHC stuff. be careful with H6 stuff when looking into 2000+ interchangeability, they do have some differences.

rears aren't even close, so no go there. Front: fronts will depend - yes if it's a wagon but won't be a straight bolt-on affair. will require some tweaking. if it's a non-turbo you'll need the axle solution. you'll need different struts and larger wheels for the larger brakes. for larger EJ brakes you'll need 16" (some 15") for huge stuff you'll be even more restricted with wheels.

oh no, PETA is going to start lobbying against and strong arming USMB!!!

oh no, it's a lost cause!!! seriously - if you have input into this stuff that will help him.

it's all covered here. yes it's possible with all sorts of different twists and ways to do it. search and read.

belt kit includes all new pulleys (and hopefully tensioner but depends on the kit). if you want a good, reliable vehicle then get the entire kit. your pulleys are 15+ years old and one or more are not in good shape. no telling how long they'll last being devoid of grease which all vehicles have by that age. ebay kits for your car are under $100 i think. just search on ebay. there's no way to answer if it "needs" to be replaced. i like a reliable car, being stranded is not an option - to me it "needs" to be replaced. if you're not into maintenance like that and like to risk it, then it doesn't need to be replaced. any time i get a subaru i replace all the timing components. even if the belt was replaced it is unlikely they replaced anythign else. and to me it's silly to replace a belt and not the pulleys. you could buy the timing belt kit and throw it in the trunk so it's done right when it breaks. or get a set of used pulleys and belt just in case. i suggest not living pay check to pay check in such a way that you're spending 100% of your income or maxing out all your disposable income on a car and can't afford to properly maintain it. but that's just me, i'm weird.

sounds simple - pop hood, look at belts. test alternator. the first symptoms sounds like a bad/dying alternator - have it tested or replace it. loss of power steering sounds like you lost a belt which drives your alternator and power steering. your alternator could have failed and then taken the belt out with it which would explain the loss of power steering.

get the right roll pin - all subaru's have been the same for like 3 decades, should be really easy to get one. get a used one if you have to, i always reuse them. anything consider temporary until you get the right thing.

tank was dropped because of......???? if it was rust issues or something else then there could be a line, pump, or fuel filter problem. fuel pump has a sock on the intake side, might want to check/clean that if indeed the tank had issues.

that makes it all worth it at least, doesn't it? sounds like the converter might be clogged. or it could just be too much fuel burning in the exhaust. in which case the fuel pressure regulator could be shot? how about generic tune up stuff - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, timing belt?

so on legacy's/OBW 00-04 there are TWO filters?

are you absolutely sure it's headgaskets leaking? almost every leak in the engine will end up "by" the headgaskets just based on the engine layout. valve covers can leak and gradually build up towards the center/back of the engine. make sure it is head gasket. yes he is correct, do not replace that rear main seal unless necessary. if it's dry (ignoring residue which will be there from the separator plate), then leave it. they often leak right after installation - even by good mechanics who have done seals all the time. if it's an auto make sure you know how to seat the torque converter. you won't be able to tell visually if it's seated and risk ruining your trans if you're not sure. those headgaskets can even be done in the car. engine doesn't have to be pulled. get the thermostat from Subaru - aftermarkets are insanely cheap.

get timing kits off ebay $60 is a steal for all those new pulleys. im' not sure what's going on here with all this "clanking" you're talking about. does it sound internal, like in the engine? if you have an y suspicion the engine is bad i'd just throw some used parts at it (post in the parts wanted section here) before investing any money into this thing. but of course at $60 the ebay kit is hard to beat.

question is hard to take seriously without any more info. you can install a jet engine in a Justy if you want or a 350 into a Suburu. anything is possible with enough time, money, skills, or beer and a sawzall! so i don't even know where to start with an answer. let's try this: it'll bolt up but not be plug and play.

i'm thinking i won't know the wrong one, they all "work", but i'd like the *best* one traction wise since this is a very functional upgrade for me. since it's for a 3.9 final drive ratio XT6 i'm having to convert one from open to LSD (the LSD's are all 3.7's) so actually it is a bit of work to swap. not just a matter of swapping boxes, which i would rather not do as well. i looked it up in the FSM and couldn't find it. though I thought i recall seeing it some time in the past. that's awesome! this title is a bit ridiculous!

right - it *can* work but *can* also deform the pan. not a black or white thing, but considering all the other options it's the least best option to ever jack an engine up with the pan.

whoops - good point, this is for the EA/ER style clutch type LSD's. all EA/ER stuff is clutch type, no VLSD until the EJ stuff.

thanks, that's exactly what i did.

I'm about to do a 3.90 LSD conversion for my "new" XT6. I have a few LSD rear differentials. Is there anyway to tell which LSD chunk is in the best condition before I swap?

oil pressure can be tested, probably best left to a professional with the equipment/tools. dash gauges are not known for being the most accurate things in the world but i definitely wouldn't ignore this one. 1 qt of oil did absolutely nothing to anything. how long have you been loosing oil and how much per 1,000 miles? how long ago did the oil light come on and was it associated with anything else? any other work to the car? i'd plan on having the oil pump resealed if you have no other options. just plan on a timing belt job and have the pump resealed while you're at it since the tbelts have to come off to do that.

if everything is removed have you tried actually pulling the head off yet? maybe it'll come off once the head starts to wiggle free and gets an angle to it? or try putting a jack (with whatever 2x4 or whatever) under that side of the engine and jacking it up some. the engine will have some "give" to it though you don't want to go bonkers as it'll strain bushings. but you should have some amount of room for it to move/rock back and forth, maybe that will help?