idosubaru

Durability has nothing to do with a particular year. But more durable is rather easy to spell out: EA81 > EA82 > .............EA82T SPFI > MPFI > Carb** ** placement of carb is matter of preference.

no spark at all? swap coils first. then swap the crank sensor. then swap the ECU. you got the other engine avaialble - that stuff would take like 15 minutes to swap. listen up - you're going to school - i'm not 100% sure about your vehicle but on older subaru's ECU's are interchangeable between auto's and manuals! it doesn't matter, in those cases you adherence to a particular ECU would be completely benign. it would mean only YOU think it's a "manual ECU" the car is still thinking "auto, auto, auto...." not sure that's how it works on this combo but i'd be awfully suspicious given your problems.

1998 OBW car alarm went off when I installed a new battery. Assuming it's all factory Subaru stuff: Does this mean that a keyless entry unit is in this vehicle? Or can it have just an alarm with no keyless entry? Seems to me all Subaru options are both - keyless and alarm, not just alarm right? Wondering if i can just get a key FOB for it?

oh yeah, then there's a number of front diff options. yours is just standard EJ series front diff stuff. those are also interchangeable with EA series front diffs as well - at least with the 4EAT and manual trans they are. Subaru didn't change much about those for many years. as for the rears maybe you could convert an old EA series to work in an EJ? i haven't heard of anyone doing that so either they haven't tried or it's more work than most folks want to get into. someone recently posted that they thought their VLSD locked up in less than one revolution of slipping...i found it hard to believe but if that's even close to true they might be a better option than we think? not sure on your final drive. best to state the vehicle in the thread as sig's changem, cars change, or you could be talking about a different car or own multiple subaru's.

I think you may need to find the pin that tells the ECU what kind of transmission the car has. FSM will help greatly here. Start tracking down the MT/AT indicator pin...i think. Haven't had to do that yet myself (as i haven't swapped EJ stuff from auto to manual) but others have played around with these pins. I recall someone just this year posting about it in a thread - looking for, and changing that indicator pin, though for a different reason. Read through someone elses auto to 5 speed swap - SVX has lots of documentation, etc - they will show what pin you need to work with. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? The easiest way i believe is to have someone trying to start the car while spraying starter fluid/carb spray all over the rear of the engine bay. Vacuum leak will show in 10 seconds or less that way usually. I like Larry's idea too - install the original ECU to be sure.

i don't think they do for the rear or I'd buy one, I only need it to pass inspection so i'd do that if i could. since i can disassemble the axle though, sounds like i can ignore all of this. though i'll give heat and Yield a run to see if it can come off. but i'm not spending hours on this.

helps to start with what vehicle you're talking about. nothing subaru makes has a 3.44 gear ratio so not sure what that is. manual trans EJ will be 3.9 or 4.11. as for LSD - what are you looking for? there are EJ rear LSD's, that would be the easiest option. as for fronts, yes there are a number of options and companies that make front LSD's. there's already quite a huge thread about them here started by WJM.

i have dark gray or black Legacy GT cloth seats if you're interested. not shipping something that big though. you can PM or email if you want.

Figured I'd see if anyone wants to trade before I buy a set of dark seats. Since I'm not selling or buying I wasn't sure where to put it this thread? I'd like a set of grey or black leather seats as they match what i want to put them in better. If anyone wants to trade let me know. I have a complete set - fronts and rear. Tan, leather, no rips, 2002 OBW H6 seats. Drivers side is electronic. Both are heated, though the heat is weak.

the pin comes out easily - the axle cup itself won't slide off the splined spindle. it's the boot by the diff that's bad, so sounds like i can just replace that. awesome.

one of my rear boots is busted. normally i would leave it but this new confounded state i live in has yearly inspections :-\ looks like the axle is seized to the hub and won't be any fun trying to remove, already tried. how does the rear axle disassemble? from the inside or outside? it's the boot by the rear diff, can i disassemble that side to replace the boot while the other side is still in the rear hub?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105008&highlight=SJR*

i do this all the time, i've been driving XT's/XT6's since 1993 and have put 100's of thousands of miles on them over the years. GD's information is correct, another 100,000 miles out of your existing engine would not be that surprising. do the headgaskets like already mentioned. valve cover gaskets reseal the oil pump, replace the water pump, reseal the front of the motor (cam and crank seals, cam orings) and install a new timing belt kit from ebay ($80 for everything, awesome!) have the fuel injectors professionally cleaned by a place like RC Engineering (there are cheaper ones out there too, they are the most expensive but I use them). Be sure to use Subaru gaskets on these parts: Intake and exhaust manifold, PCV valve, and thermostat Fel-Pro permatorque head gaskets and nothing else on freshly milled head. You'll have enough other things to work on down the road (alternator, starter, hoses, wheel bearings, drivehshaft, axles, etc) i wouldn't spend everything on a new engine when yours is such a good bet.

actually, EA82 heads rarely fail (unlike EA82T heads which have a lot more heat issues due to the turbo). done right your existing heads are perfectly fine. be advised - the cracks between the valve seats are common and expected on EA82 heads, Subaru has even released a TSB or documentation about that. cracks into the exhaust ports/coolant passages are bad, but almost never happen in EA82's. you can have them pressure tested by a shop to verify. i'd reuse the heads but put the money into doing it right. have them machined and use Fel-Pro permatorque head gaskets (adding 5-10 pounds more to the final torque value over spec's). mizpah engineering out of the midwest sells rebuilt HLA's for only a few dollars each. if yours are fine though and you're engine has been well maintained you may not need them. if you're concerned about the 180,000 miles, just have a complete valve job done. with that and having them milled they are the same as brand new heads.

you would be much better off to fix/replace the engine you have. the turbo is unreliable and not really that much more horsepower. i mean it is an it is nice compared to the EA82's, but the EA82T is an annoying motor. if you really wanted to do it - you'd want to reseal the entire thing - fel pro permatorque headgaskets and all, replace all the hoses and turbo related fittings ,rebuild the turbo, clean out the radiator, new water pump...basically redo the entire cooling system. then....you *could* have a reliable motor if everything was done right. 20+ years has really taken it's toll on the hoses, gaskets, and parts on the EA82T. turbo's generate lots of heat, so 20 year old stuff just isn't up to that game, particularly on these EA82T's which are a weaker platform as far as turbo's go. also - it's going to take some custom work, it's more than a bolt-on job and will require wiring too.

snow tires are not overkill - definitely a great thing to have in Ohio and PA. i've seen some serious snow in those states. if you're doing any mountain driving then you definitely want them. i've never noticed a problem performance wise and i do a lot of highway driving.

2000

silly rabbit - what kind of vehicle or engine? never any check engine lights? tune up stuff - plugs, wires, cap, rotor? CTS, they're commonly problematic on XT6's, not nearly as much on EA stuff but worth a look. dirty/corroded connector is bad. needs clean contacts, we install new connectors on XT6's. the sensor won't be the problem.

match gear ratios and clutch type and swap all day. i've heard people say you can interchange clutch/cable style trans but you'd have to deal with swapping all the linkages, cables, pedal stuffs, etc. and i haven't actually seen it done/confirmed.

THIS IS NOT RELATED TO EGR. your running issues are not related to the non-EGR into an EGR vehicle. You're running the auto trans? if so then it doesn't matter what ECU you put into - ECU's run multiple types of vehicles. If you have an auto trans it is expecting an EGR, swapping ECU's does not fix that. you probably have a vacuum leak or cylinder misfire of some sort. i'd suspect any number of vacuum leaks or spark plugs or wires.

get the Subaru endwrench articles for doing the timing belt. as for the crank shaft, this is a fairly common problem, someone previously didn't tighten the pulley enough. you can't just tighten them by hand with an average socket wrench, that's not nearly enough, you need leverage, i use a 3 foot pipe and lock the car in place - don't let the engine have any give to it. iron crank and bolt, you're not going to strip it. personally i'd just reinstall the pulley and tigthen the crap out of it - like i said 3 foot pipe and make sure the engine isn't budging and it's not coming off. do it right, have the right tools and it'll be fine. it's been done wrong numerous times before that's why it's coming off. you can enterain the idea of replacing the key, not sure if it'll accept one though, depends how bad it is. you can do some metal play and get something to fit though if you feel like messing with it. but it'll stay if it's installed right. 10 year old car, i'd entertain the idea of doing the complete timing belt kits - all the pulleys and tensioner if you want another 100,000 miles out of this car. ebay kits are $200-$300 for everything. not a bad deal for all new pulleys and tensioner.

oil discussions are pretty much pointless. you can basically get opinions on anything, they run the spectrum. it's all been talked about before, search here or online - there's nothing "subaru specific" about oil - so google it and read years worth of oil opinions:lol: it's not going to matter, changing it frequently is more important than brand. i would speculate that for seal and gasket health that sticking with one brand is very beneficial - keeping consistent on additives and such for the materials. but i don't make decisions based on that.

2.5 4 cylinder or 3.0 6 cylinder? 4 cylinders have head gasket issues. 2000-2002 have an extended 100,000 mile subaru head gasket warranty. i consider it a plus if the head gaskets have already been replaced. torque bind. that's about it other than basic maintenance/car stuff - brakes, axles, tune up stuff, etc. timing belt is a 100,000 mile item and needs to be done - interference engine = bad mojo for internal engine stuff if the belt brakes. on a 100k interval engine i like to replace all the pulleys too. look for documentation or plan on replacing it after you buy it. dealer charges $699 to replace belt only.

that's what i use.

No, definitely not. i'll repeat myself: there's a small chance it is rod knock - but piston slap is far more common. folks on here have the FSM's and will mail you digital copies, sounds like it's too late. any machine shop can do the heads, they have reference material for any head work on equipment, diesel, tractors, cars, trucks, etc- and it's a very standardized procedure and they have access to all that info. trust me, they're well versed in machining, it's their job! you'll need to tell them what you want done, not how to do their job. just machined? valve job? pressure tested? i call Subaru and find out who does their machine work and go with that if it's close and reasonable. personally i'd replace the timing belt and all the pulleys too - Ebay has complete kits for about $200. those pulleys are 10+ years old, i wouldn't trust them to make a quarter million miles on an interference engine. 2.2 swap is another option - check here for details. sometimes that's cheaper depending on your resources and you can sell your EJ25 to recoupe some costs. this is also a good option if the piston slap annoys you or you determine it's rod knock. they don't have head gasket issues, are cheaper to maintain (complete timing kits for $80) and 95-96 are non-interference engines.