idosubaru

Does CCR want the engine back? I wonder if they'll inspect it to see what happened?

oh right on - 5 lug conversion - 1993 FWD impreza axles indeed if you're using XT6 or EJ hubs.

nice hit! they really actually paid you? getting the judgement isn't the hard part, them actually paying out or following through on decision is.

John from KY has you covered in your other thread - he mentioned the 1993 FWD impreza axles, that's what you want if you have XT6 or EJ front hubs.

i wasn't aware of any material (in the law sense) differences between those headers. the only differences I would have thought existed were based on just the throttle body set up - being a few different EA variations and spider intake verses non-spider intake. that's the only difference i thought there was. and from the ones i've owned I can promise they definitely are not stainless steel - they rust like any other EA soob - swiss cheese baby!!

All depends on the condition, sounds like yours is minor. On numerous occassions I have installed a crank pulley without any key. It's iron/steel bolt and a cast iron crank, i've never stripped one. I use a 1/2" socket and a 2-3foot (1 meter) pipe over the handle and put some serious stank into it. It will not come off if done right like that. Of course - all appropriate disclaimers apply - don't overtigthen and strip it and don't make it too loose. Sounds like your key is still in place and the pulley isn't even bad, sounds easy as cake to me. clean it up with a file/sand paper if need be, if the metal is all gouged and install it.

aren't the cable driven and electronic mechanisms swappable? i've read that the cable driver mechanism threads right in place of the newer electronic ones. if that's the case, the possibility may be there to just swap that and ignore the other two since the gen 1 legacy won't need them anyway and you're swapping the harness? thinking out loud, i haven't done nor do i have a 99 here to look at for the moment.

other than the compression issue, another annoying thing is all the proper vacuum tubes. getting all the plumbing right is annoying as the hoses can be different from motor to motor/turbo-to-non turbo/and auto to manual.

describe the nosie, maybe it's an axle? did you check the trans fluid - how did it look? has it ever been changed? if it's the front diff it won't take long before you know it.

the 99 forester might work. it will bolt up (though the bellhousings are slightly different, they will bolt up). the Forester will be a 4.44 gear ratio. you could swap the rear diff to match and be fine, your gearing would be a bit different then. or run it FWD. like he said, the electronics part will be the issue. if you want to make it work you would want to swap the transmission harness from your legacy onto the forester transmission. i think the forester will have an electrical speed sensor, yours will have a cable driven one. but, luckily they are interchangeable. just swap out the one in the forester and thread your legacy one in there. the other option is to swap your front diff from the legacy onto the forester, but that's a rather complicated endeavor not for the faint of heart.

I was mainly wondering what wiring harness you used, hence my question about engines/intake manifold - i realize an engine by itself is just a big pump. I know one other person that has done this and ran the car with everything stock, except with turbo pistons and the car ran fine....lower power obviously but it ran. The O2 sensor, MAF, and TPS (?) also play a role in air to fuel ratio. The ECU is easy to replace, so that's awesome, you'll just need to make sure it's for a 12/86 or earlier MPFI vehicle, all EA82T ECU's are not interchangeable.

it'll be best to start out diagnosing this rather than throw parts at it, there's a chance (a good one) that it's not the issue you think it is. you are right - reverse lights in the bumper means the earlier 87 - or up to 12/86 build date. do you have the original ECU in there, or something else? When you swapped in the EA82T motor - what intake manifold wiring did you use? you need to tell us exactly what is in the car and we'll go from there. is the wiring and ECU stock non-turbo except the Engine or did you swap other stuff? and exatly what EA82T did you put in there, there's a few different variations.

I think some aussie folks have carb'ed an EJ22. Search for it here, i think you'll find something. If you don't mind learning something fuel injection isn't the "Year 2000", "Big Brother", ideological worm hole that people think it is. It's very easy and reliable.

I have the laptop doohickey's as well, nice, but not very portable and resilient, nor do I like my laptop in that environment very often. Hardly worth the risk, but I guess you could buy a dedicated laptop too. I bought one of the generic $30 jokers off ebay and it's awesome. Use it all the time on Subaru's. Reads the code and tells you what it is, and clears it of course. I highly recommend it, very easy to use and portable like Dave said.

ha. i would like to take credit for that, but will have to admit that was unintentional!

I think the ECU is the problem, but maybe not in the way you think it is. XT's in particular are really goofy around 1987, it was a transition year. It's a horrible year to go swapping engines. XT's changed a lot from 86-87 and from 87-88. Your problem isn't that it's a non-turbo ECU, but probably that it's the wrong ECU entirely. You can't just throw any EA82 ECU in there and call it a day. You'll actually want to verify your build date and make sure you get an ECU that matches your XT wiring. In other words - whatever your build date is you'll want an ECU to match. And the non-turbo ECU should work, but you can try a turbo ECU if you like. Was this XT originally turbo? Are there lights in the rear bumper or no? I think the lights should be above the bumper and yours is a later model given the details you've shared.

Oil filters can vary significantly in size. Even Subaru has changed their oil filter size, they've gotten smaller recently. I suspect technology is helping them do the same filtering in a smaller (cheaper) package? Just a hunch, but filter sizes do vary. But i'm guessing that's not what is going on here, I just say that to say all oil filters don't look the same. I've bought different brands and seen size differences as well. As long as the seating area is right, the part that seals to the engine, it should be fine. Ithought the 3.0 filters I get are smaller than the EJ25 filters, but maybe I'm wrong. I use Purolator and WIX. I would rethink using FRAM, they are the industry leaders in making low quality oil filters. Anything else (except a repainted/rebadged FRAM) are good. I normally despise the typical "oil arguments" that arise out of shear opinion, but in this case you can look it up online or even some autoparts stores i've been in have oil filters cut open, showing poor quality, including cardboard parts.

Yes, hose clamps will work. They tend to be "wider" than the grove in the CV boot, but doesn't much matter. If you're worried about it, you can buy the crimp tool, they are a total pain.

Probably the rear brake like these folks suggested. Being still under warranty I'd have it inspected or documented. Only once per drive? If it's not frequently - like a loose spare tire or something in your trunk?

that car has a great engine and transmission, so it's a good choice. it will depend greatly on the condition and maintenance. you can get 95's for free if they're in horrible shape and have a quarter million miles. or they can sell for $3,000+ in good subaru markets if low miles and great shape. if i was looking for a friend, i'd consider the one you're talking about. i'd hope to probably bring the price down a bit, particularly if the door is so bad it needs replaced. be nice to know if/when the timing belt was ever replaced. if it never has or it's not known, or old you might consider having the timing belt replaced.

i got the part numbers from subarugenuineparts database, and exploded view of the hub/seals/bearings is over on subarupartsforyou here: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=3286 i imagine you can use those two resources to figure it out. how's the hub tamer working out?

outer inner number 1 inner number 2

that's a plus of the OEM's, they don't fit in backwards in EJ engines, never thought about it like that.

you replaced the water pump? have you properly bled the coolant? this is not like the older stuff xoomer, EJ engines are notorious for overheating just as you described - the hose/radiator won't get warm. A small amount of air will prevent the cooling system from operating properly. They are not forgiving at all like the older EA/ER engines. there's other causes, particularly what i described above with EJ engines. you'll get a cold radiator and hose with air in the system. if it hasn't been properly bled, or you're not sure if it has, then that's probably the issue.

there's a few online places that offer cheap pricing - essentially about 20% over their cost. subarupartsforyou subarugenuineparts 1stsubaruparts liberty Subaru take your pick. i do the same thing, request online pricing from dealers.