idosubaru

define fully adjustable? they want power seats too or manual is okay? i'm thinking they're not going to find what they want, but hopefully i'm wrong. i think my 02 OBW H6 VDC and my LL Bean both only have power front/back reclining, and heated seats. that's it, well i think the drivers side has lumbar. i don't think it has up/down. although my XT6 has up/down adjustment, so just tell them to get an XT6!!!

good thing you asked, this would have toasted the front diff and you'd be looking at replacing the transmission, AH! so yeah, mark carefully. actually someone has posted very detailed steps on doing this before too, it would come up with a good search. i call that part a "retainer", i think that might help find it if you want to search. using a punch will get it to come off but it is aluminum so proceed slowly. definitley no problem doing this job on the car. good luck!

nah, that doesn't work...with one exception: depends, you haven't given us enough information. usually you can not do that for this swap. the only time you can do it is on the oddball 1996 OBW manual trans - those came with EJ22's. all other OBW's come with the EJ25. so if yo'ure lucky and it's a manual you're gold....it's just an EJ22 swap, not an EJ25 swap. otherwise swapping the intake manifold isn't going to work for you.

no. well yes, you can make anything work. people have put V8 350's in an XT before! it's not a direct swap but it could be done. what you NEED is a 1995+ EJ22 intake manifold. what you need beyond that i don't know.

it's a 105k belt, so you don't have to change it at 105k, nor do i think 5 years. i don't think the owners manual says 5 years, you should check it. make sure the belt was indeed changed (not a serpentine belt or something). personally i'd wait until 130k-150k to do the timing belt again. and then when you do replace the belt, water pump, and all of the timing belt pulleys. on EJ engines i personally think the pulleys are more prone to failure than the water pumps. if either one goes you toast your interference engine though, so best to replace it all at the same time. ebay may be the only reasonably priced source for those pulleys. a set of subaru pulleys is probably $600 or more.

my last post answered all of your questions on the swap except the EJ22 stuff - yes you can use the EJ22 because it's the same swap you've already done. here's what you're missing: there is no difference between forester and legacy. SAME motor. the only difference is forester went to SOHC Phase II in 1999, legacys did in 2000. so a 99 Forester engine = a 2000 Legacy engine. and all the earlier ones are the exact same.

i don't know what it is, but even with the radiator removed sometimes it seems to take forever to tap those seals in with a hammer in that tight space.

crank seal: do you install it in the oil pump, then install the pump. or pump then seal (as the FSM suggests). i see why you should install the seal last, but that's really annoying so i never do. cam seal is the same way, i remove the cap since i always replace the oring too. easier to install seal in cap, then install cap. of course - the passengers side seal is annoying. what do you do to get it out and back in with such little space to work with?

never pull the distributor out unless you absolutely have to. there's almost never a need to remove the distributor. the timing belt slipping doesn't have anything to do with it. the distributor is referenced against the cam, so unless you remove the cam or distributor there's no reason to reset that. most likely the distributor isn't lined up right, they're really annoying. plug wires in the right order? timing belts aren't off a tooth?

dave, am I missing something? the 98 forester should be just like every other Phase I DOHC EJ25 you've worked on. except the bellhousing, maybe that's what's throwing you? oh yeah, probably is. bell housing change in 98, then engine change in 99, so it's *looks* like a one year engine. DOHC EJ25's were available in 1996-1998 Foresters & 1996-1999 Legacy's the bellhousing bolt pattern change in 1998 - but that's actually simple to work around. use the 4 existing holes. you'll only have one holding the starter on. you can either leave it like that, or *make* the other. intakes aren't interchangeable from Phase I to Phase II - so it ends up being complicated. i have a 96 EJ25, head gaskets already replaced i was saving for an engine swap, but surely someone like you is used to paying small change for this stuff. i've never tried it, but maybe you could swap the wiring harness from the 98 to the 99 intake manifold. as an aside, i often mention the bearing problems in my *HG* comment threads too. EJ25's definitely have high rates of bearing failures compared to any other subaru engine. be nice to know why.

check the USRM, it's in there. you'll need XT6 front control arms most likely, although some folks have done some reaming of the EA control arms to accept EJ hubs. the rears are the hard part. you have to have XT6 rears hubs for the 5 lug swap.

i haven't looked into it any more yet. 1996 Legacy LSi with an EJ18 - FWD auto trans and 15" tires. I drive around town and take highway trips with the car. It drives okay, but seems like it should be a bit better. Right now it's only annoying starting out from a stop. It's really sloooow getting up and going. If I floor it, it just slowly goes from a stop. Once it's going it's fine. Have the EGR code and the AT light flashes, presumably because I swapped AWD to FWD. i swapped the TCU but i think the wiring pin still indicates that it's an AWD.

Use Fel Pro permatorque gaskets. Buy the lower cam carrier orings. They are reinforced orings, not regular orings. They're available from Subaru, thepartsbin.com, and sometimes come in the head gasket sets. I've bought Fel-Pro sets that have some seals/gaskets and also gotten the same Fel-Pro sets that didn't have them all.

probably just misquoting the year. probably a 96. that is a good deal.

right on. its only the ribbed belt pulleys , not vbelts ?

No - EJ18's are not interference. EJ18's were available after 95 .

check the transmission vent tube, maybe it's plugged and not allowing pressure to escape from the trans and pushing fluid out the seal. most likely the seal will need to be replaced again though i would imagine. since you only did it once and it's an easy enough job, i would think doing it again with particular care is your best option. get a Subaru seal only, avoid the parts stores seals, i've had Fel-Pro's aftermarket seals leak. clean up everything really good. grease and oil the seal properly. make sure the driveshaft end that slides through the seal isn't rusted, pitted or in bad shape. make certain the seal is installed slowly and flush the entire time. be sure to install it to the proper depth as well. maybe since the old one plopped right out, you really didn't know how far to seat it?

i think you need to expand your search area. you shouldn't have any problem getting a decent subaru for $1,300. i'd want one newer and without unknown growling noises. that could very well be the front diff, i'd walk. he may know or expect more than he's leading on.

so it vibrates immediately, before you're even moving? when was the last tune up? the EJ's should give a cylinder misfire check engine light, but i've seen stranger things happen. a rough running engine can often feel worse when put in gear. check ATF level. sounds like mounts. they're usually not bad after 10 years and only 160,000 miles, but that's not young either for a piece of rubber.

if your volts are down and it's overheating then check the crank pulley. they are a multi piece unit. it's two concentric metal pieces separated by a very thin piece of rubber, so it *looks* like a solid metal piece but it's not. this rubber can separate and cause both problems you're talking about. the inner part is spinning with the crank, the outer part will spin slower and reduce alternator and water pump output. other than that, if your radiator is green sounds like it's leaking and this should be a very simple fix. replace the radiator or otherwise find the leak. good time to redo the cooling system. replace radiator, thermostat (Subaru only on that), any hoses/clamps that are aged, and the radiator cap. if you're not sure, just fill it up and look for the leak.

tune up - plugs, wires, air filter. low mileage, but 7 years old in the southern heat, might be worth a shot. try to find the most noticeable and repeatable symptom to take it in for warranty work.

wow that's an awesome reply. what was the note was that prompted that response?

probably an error, i'm sure they weren't trying to hose you. of course that doesn't make you feel any better when you're waiting for a part for 3 weeks! i'm fairly certain i've had mix-ups with just about every Subaru parts dealer....including Subarugenuineparts. it was really annoying but i understand things happen, they eventually came through, and i'll order from them again. these are low cost OEM suppliers. they're making less money than dealers and have a lot of work to do. answering emails, many of which never buy stuff (i know how annoying it is to work for something that has zero return), dealing with shipping, processing online orders, etc.

you probably lasted longer there than NASIOC? my parents are dodge minivan fans. they've had great luck with a few. they've gotten 200,000+ miles out of theirs with no need for timing belt maintenance. which ends up being a very economical 200k. i can't blame them for buying them so far, they've had few problems. people are there for a reason and don't want to hear even hints that their stuff is inferior. not much different here, i'm fairly knowledgeable about subaru's, drive them for a reason, and don't want to hear folks negative views of them..i'm already well aware of the EJ25:lol::lol::lol:

yes it's a direct swap but it's different than some subaru swaps. like shawn said, swap the intake manifold from the EJ18 onto the EJ22. i've done that before. then just bolt it in. the only two minor issues are the EGR and exhaust. there are two different exhausts - single and dual ports. but it doesn't really matter because they are both interchangeable. so since you have the parts car if the exhaust is single port (the EJ18 will be dual), just grab the exhaust manifold off your parts car to install with the engine. that will bolt right in placed as well - it's only 2 extra bolts, big deal! next is EGR. the EJ18 will have EGR, the EJ22 may not. if the EJ22 doesn't have EGR then you'll need to either block off the pipe or find another solution. without the EGR the car should run and drive fine (mine does and i dont' have EGR), but you will get a check engine light. i just ignore mine. i'd rather have a check engine light than extra parts, more points of failure, and less reliability.