idosubaru

given reputation, it is highly recommended to stick with CCR. i wouldn't bother sourcing one from anyone else. no way, no how. the only other rebuild option i'd consider is if i knew and trusted a very competent and local machine shop to have them do it for me. have you thought about an engine swap? better technology, power, performance, reliability, parts....for probably less money?

belts stretch some i suppose but i've never heard of this being a problem. i think this will be a personal preference item. retensioning is not necessary. that it skipped one time doesn't mean not retensioning caused it. my guess is there's a good chance it would have skipped even had it been retensioned at 10k. something else could have caused it. that doesn't hold much water either, i'd prefer easy money every 10k versus every 60k too! if you listened to every mechanics recommendations your 20 year old subaru would probably cost $3,000 a year to maintain.

the issue started immediately after a brake job? most of the time if that's the case, then something happened to cause it. mileage? are all the tires matching in size and tire tread depth/wear/pressure? has the check engine light come on at all during this time? if so, read the codes and let us know what they are. have you checked the fluid - was it ever low or leaking? have you ever run mismatched tires on this car or has it been towed? does the POWER/AT/TEMP light, or whatever the trans light is for a 2000 OBW flash 16 times when you first start the car? if so - you need to pull that code.

post a thread in the Parts Wanted Forum, someone probably will get you set up. they're located down by the passengers side foot well area, in close proximity/attached with the blower motor. usually just a couple screws to get to it after removing the plastic cover/trim.

if i had to do it, i think i'd just ignore the old existing lines and run new steel braided lines the entire way and route them however is convenient. be simpler than trying to remove the stuff and route something the same place.

really easy to fix. get a used part for this, they don't fail often enough to warrant buying a new one. $25 or less part - $5 at a pull it yourself place or from someone on here probably. if you can...hmmm...flush a toilet, you can replace this.

my 02 VDC seats are the same too. nipper suggested the seat heaters do go bad. that sucks since these are leather, side impact air bag equipped seats. i'm sure they're really cheap! luckily i have an extra LL Bean set, so i could swap those. when you turn them on and they aren't working, do the lights in the switches still come on? is there anyway to test the seat? just continuity, any resistance values or anything? the plug is easy to get to under the seat.

i never retension them until i install a new belt.

doesn't the bearing retainer need to be knocked out too? it's a large "castle nut-ish" kind of thing on the back of the hub. once the axle is out i believe you have to unthread that. there's a "special tool" of course, but it's not needed. just use a punch to work it around until it spins loose. should be obvious once you get in there and look.

i just bypass the throttle body myself. easier to avoid those tight bends, one less hose, two less connections, two less clamps = more reliable. i've noticed no difference at all in performance, but it only gets down to negative 10 degrees where i live:lol:

it's not often but i've seen valve cover gaskets leaking really bad on older gen stuff, i think new gen is about the same. it would easily happen if it wasn't installed correctly or a valve cover bolt was stripped/not torqued properly. wouldn't surprise if it's been messed with before or if something else is causing the leak. i agree - verify first where the leak is coming from. or the valve cover is really easy enough to just knock out and be done with it. also replace the PCV valve with a Subaru unit to make sure the crankcase pressures can vent properly. not a bad idea to just remove as much of the PCV system as you can and clean it out too, i've seen them caked up and clogged completely before. be careful in the cold though, the hoses are brittle and will break very easily if cold. best to wait until warm or do it in a garage.

yeah, that's definitely not true. it's a plug and play swap, it'll plug right in. the only issues are the two i already outlined.

oil is a topic that usually just turns into opinionated arguments. follow the owners manual, personally i'd stick with the 10w30. if the fuel filter looks new, leave it. if yo'ure not sure it was actually replaced (sometimes people get confused or say the wrong thing), or you want to then replace it.

LOTS of information on here about this. the automatic/manual thing itself does not matter. and the recommendation to swap manifolds isn't right either. the EJ22 will plug right in no matter what. what matters is the EGR. your EJ25 has EGR. a manual trans 95 does not have EGR. but a 96 manual trans EJ22 probably does have EGR. so you'll need to check that. either way - both will plug in and work just fine without doing a thing to the intake manifold. if you plug in a non-EGR engine into an originally equipped EGR vehicle it doesn't matter at all, it just gives you a check engine light. my EJ22 swapped legacy has that and i just ignore it. i'd much rather have the light than extra maintenance and relaibility woes that come with EGR. you can wire in a resistor to get rid of the light i have heard, i just don't care. also the exhaust ports matter. 1995 engine will bolt right in. a 1996 will have a single port exhaust, so you'll need to swap the exhaust manifold too. which is really easy, the manifolds are entirely interchangeable - it's only 2 extra bolt - big freaking deal in an engine swap!??!?!

depends on your definition of "generally reliable". the EA82 is a great motor. the biggest problem you're going to have is age. the seals, gaskets, and orings are all 20 years old. there's a lot of maintenance items that are likely to need attention. but...if you maintain them and dont' mind a few road bumps a long the way, they are great motors. the biggest cause of concern is that over 20 years it's likely they've been overheated, run low on oil and things like that. if they haven't experienced any major engine problems though they are great motors. it's easier to find an EJ that hasn't been subjected to as much lack of maintenance and age. that's the main difference. i've driven XT6's my whole life, which is just an EA82 with two more cylinders slapped on it (same pistons, valves, crank seal, cam seals, cam orings..etc). i also used to drive ALOT. to make it as reliable as i wanted i would essentially do a front end job - all seals, timing belt, water pump, oil pump. then i'd go over all the basic tune up stuff. PCV, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter. fluid changes. new radiator, rebuilt calipers, alternator, do the XT6 specific weak spots like power steering rebuild and coolant temp sensor fix and it was good to go. and i'd have an ignition coil, distributor, fuel pump, and starter in the trunk storage compartment. that left me with a car that was quite capable of not leaving me stranded when i was commuting 120 miles/day.

that's the EG33 3.3 liter. this guy is talking about the EZ30 3.0 liter in various 2000+ vehicles.

there's no definitive date - was *thought* to be 2002/2003...but obviously later years are having issues as well. they aren't as bad as the earlier ones though. it's not too hard to find an EJ25 vehicle with the head gaskets already replaced with the new Subaru head gaskets. get one of those. i'd go for the 2000+ Phase II EJ25, much better engine. they don't "blow" in the "now you're stranded sense" like the 96-99 EJ25's. they only leak externally and will drive indefinitely as long as you top the coolant off as needed. avoid the EJ25 - the H6 is a great motor, just get one of those and address the fine points mentioned in the H6 thread which i recounted in your other post about that motor. as for quality going down after all 94 models and "ALL" of certain years having rod knock, do you want to point us to some quantitative information on this? that's really opinionated and inaccurate for a purchaser. there are plenty of excellent subaru's available after 1994. i've owned a ton of them, bought them for family and friends....i specifically avoid the ugly ducklings of the gen 1's, i've never bought one. older cars aren't a good fit for everyone. it'll need some items in short order: a new radiator, alternator, starter, brake work, exhaust, O2 sensor, knock sensor, plugs and wires, a wheel bearing, all the fluids changed.....for someone not doing their own work you're talking thousands in maintenance on an old ugly gen 1 legacy. not most people's cup of tea, so let's try and help these folks out.

no. there's a recent thread with some great H6 specific information. lots of people sell cars at 100k miles. very typical. and the 2000 year models are starting to get old, a lot of people don't want to drive 10 year old cars.

ho, ho, GD Is back!

NO WAY! that's awesome.

shouldn't be any noticeable difference at all if you make sure the final drive ratios are the same. i don't think hydraulic clutches became available until 1996, but you could just check and make sure the 95 is a cable operated clutch like the 90l.

steve, no offense meant. i..and others here on this forum have pulled apart hundreds of these exact motors. i'm a little confused because the oil gets pressurized behing the crank seal to lubricate. then it drains down into the oil pan....unless i'm missing something it's impossible for air to get introduced here??? WAIT - are you talking about EJ engines...with the crank seal as part of the oil pump? if so - then this is the wrong forum and that's the problem. on older subaru's the crank seal is separate and not part of the oil pump. either way, i think the crank seal is probably one of the least likely causes of this, at least for older generation engines. i've just stated facts, i haven't questioned your experience.

ruin is a strong word. sure, it will change things slightly. but it's not the end of the world. i told him to just keep an eye on his tire wear and have it aligned if they start wearing odd. he's a smart kid and on Subaru's AWD you need to rotate frequently anyway. so it makes it easy to keep an eye on your tire wear. it doesn't pull at all. alignment in general is overrated. it's a marketing hyped word now. it's a huge load by sales folks. i never get an alignment. i've put 125,000 miles on a car without ever getting an alignment and kept perfect tire wear the entire time. i never get an alignment with new tires. i've never gotten any of mine aligned unless I replaced (and forgot to mark) suspension components, only one time did that happen. maybe other makes are different but Subaru's rarely need adjusted. and that's even when i used to off road and beat my old ones pretty bad...never got an alignment on those.

Okay my buddy did this to his 97 Legacy sedan. Installed 99 OBW struts. Word on the street is it lifted the car about 3" and it looks nice. His struts/shocks were shot, particularly the rears so he was needing something else anyway. if he gets me pic's i'll post.