idosubaru

there is no trick or anything to look for. install pipe with *new* oring, that's it. the oring will seal on it's own...if everything is just right. like rob said, i coat mine lightly with something as well to assist sealing. if there is something wrong with the pipe, get a new (or used good) pipe.

don't encourage them JCE! i'm an engineer and like not hearing engineers talk about most things!

i've never had to use anything on subaru's except caliper grease for the slides. just make sure all the retaining clips are in good condition and there (they should be if the current brakes work fine, don't make noise, and the car being so new).

yes, don't touch the body wiring harness or ECU. drop the entire EJ22 in as a lump, the 1995 EJ22 will plug right into the vehicle harness. and yes you'll want to bolt the EJ25 accessories to the Ej22 block anyway.

that's a great price around here and i bet the soob selection in your area is limited, sounds like a fine deal if it's a known good motor.

if it's DOHC then this is an easy swap. the one starter bolt won't be a problem, it's not really a "structural" issue. but i think locating the second hole would be very simple if you wanted to go that route. your 95 should be a dual port and bolt right up to the 99 exhaust. but in the odd event that you have a late model or something that somehow got a single port exhaust Ej22, don't sweat it - just swap the exhaust header too - very simple, that's a direct swap as well. i've seen a number of engines not have the charcoal canister lines, don't worry about those either. just install the EJ22 as is, no matter if it does or does not have the charcoal canister lines, it'll work fine either way with no issues. the last swap i did was an automatic so i'm not recalling the clutch stuff. someone here will know. a 1995 ECU will not work in the 1999 vehicle. but there's a chance that if you got a 1996 ECU from a manual EJ22 without EGR that it would get rid of your EGR check engine code. although, like me, you don't care!!!

maybe some more knowledgable folks will know, but two drain and refills don't get much fluid out. at 175,000 it should have had many changes before now? another drain and refill is probably not a bad idea though i think it's a real crap shoot to fixing your issue. do all of your tires match? i haven't seen TC lock up problems, but i have seen crazy shifting issues go away with new tires on AWD automatic subarus. don't know if it's worth a shot but maybe disconnecting the TCU, or battery for that matter, for awhile to clear it would help? be nice if someone who understood the lock up function could chime in...like which duty solenoid is the culprit, what engine info does the TCU look at - could it be engine related? i think there are some engine sensors that may affect shifting, not sure if any affect lock up control?

i would get higher quality pads...ceramics for instance. i've found that it's not even "pad dependent". some pads just wear worse on some vehicles than others. i've actually seen cheap pads last a long time on Subaru's and the same brand/pads last about 15,000 miles on my parents new dodge caravans multiple times before they finally got better pads and have had much better luck. ceramics are a great price and worth the money. very strange for rear pads to need replaced already. make sure you buy disc brake caliper lube and then clean and lube the caliper slides. do not use regular grease. that is crucial to better gas mileage and longer lasting pads. as for sanding the rotors, i wouldn't touch them, they should be fine as is. you've already mentioned they work properly and in my experience subaru rotors don't experience problems when the pads are changed properly.

have you checked the ATF level? if the ATF hasn't been changed recently it needs to be done, keeping in mind one drain and refill only gets a small percentage of the fluid out. has the AT light ever blinked 16 times at start up? any check engine lights? how's the general engine condition....driveability, tune up?

nope, like JCE said 1997 and up EJ22's are interference. and all EJ25's are interference.

drew - what are you trying to do? run an EJ on the stock EA series electronics? that's what you're title sounds like. but then you mention the escort dizzy, so it sounds like you're talking MS? Have you looked to see if the EA series throttle body will bolt to the EJ intake manifold or possibly just make an adapter?

i've seen this happen before when removing an engine/trans, i wouldn't worry much about it either if it's just essentially cracked and/or a small piece missing.

wonder if the mods would mind this being in the old gen forum?

wonder if the mods would mind this being in the old gen forum?

nice, that's an excellent tip.

thanks guys. since the springs and such weren't in place, i imagine the force exerted on the piston was dinky. guess i'm lucky the valve never ended up in the cylinder. when i pulled the valve cover the valve was easily seen still in place and intact. i don't think it's even bent, if it is it's ever so slightly. i'll keep an eye out for those keepers and try and see if my screen is still intact on the oil sump.

awesome, that's a relief.

pulled the head today and my 1987.5 MPFI EA82 XT dropped a valve. i've put a couple hundred miles on it like this, not knowing it was the valve. when i pulled the head today i recovered everything but the tiny retainers are no where to be found. are they just lying in the baffles or bottom of the oil pan? not too worried since they shouldn't get past the oil pick up screen...I hope it's still intact! is that screen visible from the oil drain plug hole? if the piston face has marks on it, is that okay? doesn't appear to be anything major, but it does look like the valve contacted the piston. didn't damage the valve at all, just looks like some surface scratches on the piston. just FYI - i had removed this valve before to inspect the nice sized crack from the head into the exhaust port. so it didn't just drop a valve, obviously i hosed it up when putting it back together.

1987.5 MPFI EA82 XT i've done EA82 head work and head gaskets before but it's been awhile and I've always reused the same heads (i think so anyway?). doing this XT again and this time i'm installing two new heads. but they appear identical and I don't have any other heads to look at. how do i tell which one goes on which side? all they have that is different are numbers on the bottom "23" and "25". everything else appears identical. i'm wondering if the place i bought these from sent two heads from the same side? i hope not, that would completely suck.

oh yeah, good point. how's the rest of the system? any coolant loss, how old is the water pump and thermostat? has the stat been replaced since the additive? hate to replace the radiator to find that isn't hte problem.

i think i'd go new unless someone has a compelling reason i'm missing. particularly considering it's an EA vehicle - the plastic end tanks are much more brittle now than they are 20 years old. i think there are some EA82 radiator differences out there, but i'm not on the up and up enough to fill you in any. rockauto isn't very good at delineating information either. i notice even after picking a specific model and engine it still lists the wrong parts often. what's the point if they're going to do that - why not just lump all 1989 stuff together, why make me "drill"!??!?!

sounds like there's more details to this story that might help us out. exactly why is the FWD fuse in, how long, what were the symptoms then, etc. my first inclinations are: front driveshaft (most likely the inner joint) ujoints front diff you are positive that both front axles have been replaced with no change in symptoms? aftermarket or Subaru axles, replaced boots, or the entire axles? ujoints go bad on the driveshaft (the rear output shaft from the trans to the rear diff). check those. often a trained (or untrained if it's bad) eye can tell just by looking or grabbing/shaking the driveshaft by hand. but the only definitive way is to remove the shaft and check for play/lumpiness because a seized joint won't always show itself until removed.

rattle - heat shields are common, but certainly there are other possibilities. check engine could be a multitude of things. cylinder misfire due to needed tune up is likely. plugs and wires will fix that, if it's never been changed they're due. knock sensor is another common item, easily replaced in a few minutes. check for torque bind check for external head gasket leaks if it has the 2.5 liter. they are noticeable at the rear of the engine.

i'm out of town at the moment so i'll have to check when i get back. i only did the fronts, is it possible to install them on the "wrong side"? guess so?

are you sure you're using the right marks? are you using the right mark on the crank sprocket? you didn't remove the cams to replace the seals/orings and install them in the wrong spot did you? have you checked your engine codes.