idosubaru

oh my, no way. terrible deal. for that money you can get a newer legacy - more reliable, less miles, WAY safer......larger brakes, heavier build, ABS (which i hate though, but you get an insurance break?!?!), air bags. and legacy's/impreza's are so much nicer than loyale's it's not even funny. they ride nicer and have much better trims/options (particularly the legacy's). legacy's and impreza's are easy to find for $1,000. for $2,000 you can be picky. i picked up a loyale last year for a friend. 1991, manual, white, wagon. $600 with 120,000 miles. granted i did all the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, thermostat and tune up work - but that wouldn't cost nor is it worth $2,000. the only thing about the loyale that's better is the transmission, you can get true locking 4WD. but the legacy is still safer and with snow tires you're golden if that's a concern.

that master cylinder got worked over like a 50 year old Farm All tractor, so that's a good suggestion. so the brakes will lock up really tight even with air bubbles?

yep get a new knock sensor. the plastic cracks and separates from the metal. i've heard of people filling those cracks before and it gets rid of the code, take that or leave it, i'm sure others hate that i even type that. pay attention to torque and the angle it's installed, directions are on this site here.

it did work. pressurize the system and bleeds well. leaked like a sieve though. the cap doesn't seal easily, i couldn't get it to seal completely at all. once pressurized mine just poured fluid all over the ground out from under the lid. no amount of adjusting the cap pressure seemed to stop it. tried pressing it by hand and such..still no dice. anyone keep theirs from leaking? i had a healthy 3 foot diameter pedal and fluid all under my car afterwards.

if i press the brakes like normal....i get nothing. if i pump them three times they lock up awesome. is that a bad mastery cylinder or air in the lines? they wouldn't stop that well with air in the lines would they? or could it still be air in the lines? background is i swapped in new dual piston calipers, pads, and rotors onto my 1997 Impreza OBS. bleeding was a PITA. a friend pumped the brakes ten thousand times first go around. now i believe all the air is now out with the assistance of a Motive Power Bleeder. i did not do the ABS sequence.

you didn't say but i think this is an EA82? all axles should be the same left to right. non turbo and turbo axles should not be interchangeable though...your vehicle is a turbo?

if you're replacing pistons and rods, this is a huge job. basically you want the 1999 engine in your car right? the easiest way to pull that off is to swap the intake manifold wiring harness from the DOHC onto the SOHC. i can't tell you what issues might arise, but the engines are very similar in many ways, although they changed physically some. maybe someone here knows. the easier and cheapest option would be to sell the 1999 (maybe someone on here - market place forum?) and use the money to buy the Ej25 you need. fortunately you're in the opposite scenario of most people...the 99's are much harder to find. that makes them easier to sell. and the DOHC are easy to find. i've never done it but i can't imagine you need to swap the pistons and rods. i would check into just bolting the DOHC heads to the SOHC block. i have no idea of the feasibility of that, but i would look into it.

the flashing oil temp light means there's a code in the transmission. there are quite a few transmission codes. you'll need to read the codes or have them read. there are instructions posted on this forum about how to read the codes yourself if you want to search for them. the oil temp light alone does not indicate a transfer duty solenoid failure. the Duty C solenoid (transfer duty solenoid) usually experiences some symptoms when it fails so i doubt that's why it's flashing if you're not experiencing any driving symptoms. if you don't know anything about the prior history/maintenance of the car, then the fluid needs changed and you need to make sure all the tires match in size and tread. $400 - $700 to replace the solenoid and clutch pack.

are you saying you're only interested in getting a new Subaru OEM pump? Subaru online parts suppliers: subarugenuineparts.com libery Subaru subarupartsforyou.com Aftermarket suppliers (which may be Subaru's source sometimes): rockauto thepartsbin

here's the distinction - that is odd for other motors...EVEN OTHER SUBARU motors. but it's completely normal for the EJ25 to do this. very common. it's a 2.5 liter subaru specific symptom. but first, before deciding on a huge repair, make sure. it could be as simple as an air pocket. this would be most likely if some recent work was done just prior to the overheating - water pump, radiator, coolant flush, radiator cap...anything coolant related. or i guess it could have randomly gotten low, but i doubt it. anyway - check for air bubbles in the reservoir, that's a sure sign of head gasket issues. look here for all your Ej25 head gasket needs - these motors confuse many mechanics. they fail oddly (as you've found), they can pass compression tests just fine with a blown head gasket, and can even pass the exhaust gas in the coolant tester as well. many of us on here are very familiar with the EJ25 head gasket.

glad you got it running. you're welcome for telling you it would work. no one said it would "plug and play". but since you brought it up.... did the engine harness plugs plug in - yes. did the car start, or "play" - yes. it's plug and play because the engine harnesses do plug in and the car runs just fine. evap hoses and one random wire aren't sufficient to not call an engine swap "plug and play". there's no need for the charcoal canisters. last swap i did i intentionally installed an intake without charcoal canisters (even though the car came with them) because it's simple and looks cleaner in the engine bay. there's no ill effect to doing that. a 10+ year old engine should have the timing pulleys checked and the water pump replaced, not just the belt replaced. i can guarantee that at least one pulley needs replaced or regreased - usually the lower geared tooth pulley at least, if not others. simply replacing the timing belt at this age is risky. i'd plan for it in the future at some point.

you might want to describe what it's doing and what problems you're having. if you think you have torque bind: at the onset - a fluid change or a few or a flush may solve the problem. or - making sure your tires match, will solve the problem. after that you'll need to replace the rear clutches and duty solenoid C to fix the problem. the transmission does not need to come out in order to do that repair. whether or not to drive it in FWD is a largely opinionated messy discussion (TONS of prior posts about this, just search for "torque bind"). those of us, like myself, that have done it will tell you it's fine and we have done so with no ill effects. those that haven't done it will tell you it's a bad idea and support not with experience but academia and theoretical talk. your car, your decision on whether to take advice from the back seat guys that aren't doing it, or those that have.

you have an air bubble still in the system. search the forum for tons of information on great ways to burp it. ATF lines are a real PITA, they're often inaccurate. mine seem to read best right after the car has been driven a lot. turn off and check. crank it, run through gears, and check again.

WOAH!!!! this is like reality TV drew! i'm with you on that though! has the 86 been that good with mileage? i know the 88-91's with spider, MPFI, and all the newer EA82 stuff could do 40, but have never heard anyone say that about the older ones.

this is really simple - you WILL NOT have cam sprocket problems. that's only if you get a SOHC Phase II EJ25 - which you didn't. the DOHC is the same engine, simple. you probably could have fixed the EJ22 for the money you spent on the EJ25. are you bolting the EJ25 in without getting new pullies/timing belt/water pump? i always replace that stuff to avoid exactly what happened to your EJ22.

no, they are not interchangeable. the wiring harnesses change in the Phase II EJ25's (SOHC). of course anything can be done with enough time and effort...a V8 can be thrown in there if you want.

if you're looking for EJ22 reliability, then get an EJ22. EJ25's have more head gasket failures (much rarer after replacement, but does happen), more engine bearing failures and more piston slap. nice motor but it's not an EJ22. boost your EJ22 with 7psi if you need 20 more hp. it is a good motor though and most people probably don't look at reliability the way i do. the EJ22 intake won't work, but if you go with an EJ25 it's intake will plug right into the EJ22 harness, so no need to swap intakes anyway.

finding a 3.9 rear diff is easy - all manual transmission XT6's are 3.9's and then there's EJ's that have them as well. you could try a front diff swap if you wanted too. there's some good threads on here about doing that.

wow - even off the car this sounds like a monster of a job. which EJ engines does this procedure apply too? all EJ25's...what else?

whatever they offer to sell it back to you for isn't written in stone either, that's a flexible number usually. $500 sounds about right.

not even close...might not even be called an "extension housing" on a manual transmission. swapping transmissions is a fine option, particularly with a manual transmission. they don't fail all that often so getting a good used one is typically easy and cheap. the shop i bought mine from offers 3 warranty on transmissions. didn't have to use it and the trans was only $150. yours being a 99 will be significantly more expensive to replace though probably....unless you're resourceful.

i also mentioned it because i'd carefully look at and consider replacing the tie rod end that's on the "bad" side anyway. even though it wasn't the bad part, i'd be concerned that incurred more stress than usually due to the failed rack or inner rod. all that slop and extra impact may have stressed it? i don't know, i haven't seen the car but tie rods are one part not to mess with. tie rods are about the most dangerous item to fail on a car. i've tried sliding the rack out from under the exhaust....even if it was possible (it hasn't been on the ones i tried) - the exhaust really is easy to drop enough to remove it. just unbolt the exhaust from the heads and the one bolt on the bracket and it'll come down far enough to work on the rack, you don't have to remove the exhaust at all. pretty sure any EJ rack from 1990 until 2000 will work for you so your options should be enormous.

Not when they're rusted. I've seen many that penetrant, pounding, hydraulics, nor heat would remove. In those cases (often around here) I don't waste much time trying to save them.

With noticeable steering slop I'd definitely replace the rack immediately. Subaru steering racks very rarely fail. Nearly every single 1980's Subaru is still rolling around with the original steering rack and they're in great shape. So they're an excellent item to purchase used. Since they rarely fail they're all over the place and can easily be found cheap. I wouldn't bother with a new or rebuilt unit. With rebuilts I wouldn't worry about quality, just get a used one - known excellent quality. Steering racks are actually very easy to replace. Getting to the two hose lines is annoying (17mm and 14mm wrench needed) and getting the tie rod ends off can be a bear too. Sometimes the best option is to just plan on destroying them with a pickle fork and getting new ones. Makes a two hour job a 2 minute job. But really it's a simple job - 17mm and 14mm nuts for the fluid lines. 12mm bolt (i think) for the linkage to the steering column, 2 tie rod nuts, and remove the two brackets underneath after dropping the exhaust (just a couple 14mm nuts). Not a bad job, just annoying working from under the car. The only tricky part is lining up the steering rack linkage so your steering wheel is even when going straight. some folks here can guide you on that endeavor. With that play in the rack a new tie rod on that side might not be a bad idea, not sure i'd want to reuse one that's been subjected to that slop. If the boots are questionable on the used on, they're easily replaceable particularly off the car and auto parts stores actually carry nice ones - i think the beck arnley was the ones i just bought for an impreza which would be identical to the ones you'd need. they were nice quality, i replaced a torn boot.

the "engine bay temperature" theory isn't applicable to all vehicles. there have been people that have tried both and gotten better actual dyno numbers with the shorter intake hose in the engine bay. so whatever difference the hot air makes is offset by something else. a member on here even tried both, on an older generation vehicle to find the engine bay intake got better results, after everyone of course said it wouldnt. and in a dyno set up i would imagine the "hot engine air" set up is hurt the most since the fans they blow in front of the car probably don't ventilate the engine bay as much as actual driving.