idosubaru

i'll get on that radiator cap. it looks fine, rubber appears nice and clean. i've never repaired spark plug threads so i'm not sure how to go about that. it does seem to run worse, then when i first cranked it up. now it's worse - probably because the plug won't seat (it stripped removing it for the compression test). don't know about running hot, haven't driven it enough. i think the ignition stuff is good. when i put the motor in 2-3 years ago i think i put new plugs, cap, and rotor in it and they "look" fine now.

that sounds dead on like a great plan. i'd plan on 150,000 miles or like you said 50k on the existing set up. 60k intervals were nice - 60k belts - 120k add water pump with it. basically replace pump with every other belt. the newer 105k interval is tougher. 105k is soon and 210k is long....add to that the fact these are interference engines with tbelt driven water pumps and a pump failure could ruin or cause extensive damage to the engine. i prefer to get the ebay EJ timing belt kits for the pulleys/tensioners but use a Subaru belt. to buy an entire set of pulleys/tensioner is way too expensive from Subaru - no one does that. i'd rather have new pulleys than have to pick which of the 10 year old ones will make the next 105,000 miles.

um, no secrets you just have to make it work. it's REALLY tight but they can come off. but it's a pain. and since it's tight i can't promise every vehicle, config, and option is actually possible but the ones i've done are. i've done automatic impreza's and XT6's this way before. i think i've done a second generation legacy....not sure though. you'll have to unbolt the engine trans so it can swing around and give you movement to either side to get them off. they'll get tighter as you create that room though...but they can come off. it's really easy to just rotate the hub without actually disassembling anything, that's the way to go. unbolt the top strut mount bolt and loosen the bottom. that's it - loosen one, remove one and you're done. this will allow you to pull the shaft right off the transmission. just make sure you mark the top bolt prior to turning it - it adjusts the alignment. just knock a mark in it with a chisel - getting it marked on the bolt head and then the strut flange so you can install that one bolt the exact same way. that's the easiest way to do it, makes it a breeze. it'll be harder to get it back on than off too...might as well just do it now.

mike - swapping the TPS isn't that hard at all and is easier except for the adjustment of course. swapping throttle bodies can be annoying...forget how the EJ is set up but you have coolant lines, throttle cables, TPS, and a gasket to remove and replace to swap TB's. like you said, there's no adjusting then just bolt and go. not that hard, so maybe it's worth it to avoid adjusting the TPS. i'd skim the FSM and make your decision based on how simple it looks there. typically TPS adjustment is by voltmeter measuring of the TPS outputs or just do it visually. the TPS should just start to engage as the butterly plate opens. don't know if you can do it on EJ's (haven't had to yet) but on older subaru's you can do it by ear with the engine running.

they wouldn't have done a dye test on that i bet. i'm with him - Gloyale - a second opinion would be good here. or you could take some digital photos of the underneath and back of the engine and post them here. we can probably tell you what's going on. very odd for a HG to leak oil and not coolant on this EJ25. i can't imagine it comes to this but if for some reason you go ahead and have this work done...which i think is a really bad idea...i'd recommending doing both heads. replace the head gaskets and seals on both sides at the same time. doing one is not in your best interest particularly with such a new low mileage motor.

I got the car with a blown engine. I replaced the engine. So there could be some residual oil/coolant mixture from the old engine in the lines/radiator. I can't remember if i replaced the radiator or not, i think i did. Intake manifold gasket is new - as of last week. EA82 in a 1987.5 XT manual FT4WD. The car does run and drive, but idles very low - 300-500 rpm and dies often. If I hold the throttle at 2,400 rpm's it stays there just fine. No check engine light. It drives but it's low on power. When I shut it off and walk to the engine compartment the overflow tank is bubbling and quits about 1 minute or so after the engine shuts off. Really no other reason it should be doing that right? This is even right after running for a minute before it gets to operating temperatures. Compression is 150-155 on cylinders 2,3, and 4. i can't test #1 since the spark plug threads are shot!?!?!?!?!! grrrr.... Head gasket?

disengage the fuel pump. turn the engine just enough to see if it actually moves and isn't stuck change the oil i attach a socket to an electric drill so i can slap it on the oil pump remove the belts and drive the oil pump for awhile to circulate oil through the engine (air tools would work as well) rotate the engine over a couple times by hand and hit the drill/oil pump combo some more i've pulled the oil filter beforeto check and you can turn the oil pump by hand to get some decent oil moving with the belts removed. but there's not much space to work with when it's in the car.

checked it out this morning and the crank sprockets appear to be on correctly. let me get this straight though - the inner (next to the seal) sprocket is identical to the outer sprocket but has some more material machined off around the inner bore. this is what you meant by "groove" right? pulled everything off, reinstalled and it did the same thing. that's really annoying. but i guess they run like that so i won't consider that the problem? i'm having trouble with the car and wanted to rule this out. i guess i am. i felt like swapping the sprockets "just to see", but i got it back together now so forget it!

there are no special tools *required*. there are some made if you like to buy them, but there's plenty of info here from those of us that have done it over and over without any tools. from my experience i'd be more concerned about all the pulleys than the tensioner. i've seen more bad pulleys (a couple) than tensioners (none personally). at nearly 10 years and 100,000+ miles at least one pulley (usually the sprocketed gear pulley with teeth) could use replacing due to lack of grease and noisey bearings. how many miles now and how many when the belt was replaced? i'd at least wait some time, assuming the dude that last replaced it would have noticed a failed or failing pulley anyway you have time. i just wouldn't trust them the full 100,000 miles.....100,000+xxx,xxx (whatever you replaced them at) is probably a large number to expect all the parts to make it. on older vehicles it's never a bad idea to go in and inspect the components, particularly with these cars having 100k timing belt intervals. until i know your mileage i can't say...but i'd probably put 25k-50k on this belt and go back in to check the tensioner, pulleys, and replace the water pump. older vehicles had 60k intervals so you were given more frequent checks on the other related components. another user just had a timing belt failure most likely cause by a failed component just like i'm talking about - but it was at 282,000 miles too, so you have room.

needs further inspection for sure, never make a vehicle decision based on one tow-truck drivers assessment on the side of the road. but..if it is the timing belt - then reread my first reply. when it was replaced at 192,000 it's likely none of the pulleys were replaced. one seized or failed and took the timing belt with it.

if you do separate the engine/trans for any reason make SURE you know how to seat the torque converter properly. not doing it right will ruin your transmission, many people miss that. i suppose you're swapping in a pre-1999 engine since the wiring is different? does that mean you're going from SOHC to DOHC? we might be able to help you there if you give some more info, there's a possibility it won't require an entire wiring harness swap. the easiest solution is to afix your old engine harness to the new engine...but i don't know what your new engine is to suggest if that's possible or not. good luck!

My XT6 4EAT had a stutter for a year or so since I got it, but drove and shifted fine, and now needs replacing. Mine seemed to sort of "stay" in between gears for a few seconds longer than what it needed to. Like it was in la-la land for second. But there dozens of reasons why a trans might do this. If it is a problem, it's going to gradually become more apparent, not just randomly break down. Just make a mental note of it now and see what it's like down the road...unless it's getting more noticeable i wouldn't worry about it.

it was at 15 degrees, that's after having never been adjusted. I put a new JDM engine in and new ECU after a conversion (turbo to non-turbo). I'll set it properly once I put it back to the LEFT 1/2 tooth side.....ha, ha, since that's where it runs.

you probably can't do that in this case. this is an interference engine so you likely incurred some valve damage from the broken belt. Dealer in Maryland quoted my cousin $699 for timing belt only installation. figure $500+ from a dealer for just the belt. there's also a good chance you'll need a new pulley or tensioner. those usually fail and take the belt out with them...they run $70+ each. You'll be taking a gamble though...you might pay $700 only to find out you have valve damage. Valve damage requires pulling the heads and replacing the bent valves - that's around the $1,500 mark...with lots of room to go higher depending on what happened. the handful that i've seen are repairable and didn't incur significant damage (like to the pistons), but it doesn't sound like you're wanting to address either. what would be nice is to do a leak down test to see if indeed the valves are bent. find a good independent shop to do that for you - dealers suck at diagnosing stuff like that. they can...but typically don't, they'll give you a canned answer like "you need new heads or valve work"...even if you don't. they base it on their own experience and market not your individual needs. a good independent won't do that. if you got lucky none of the valves bent and you can get away with a new timing belt alone.

great, thanks boss that's good to hear. have you ever had any line up perfectly? seems bizarre they wouldn't just have them positioned/manufactured correctly?

been three years since i had it apart. can i do a visual without removing them? no problem removing them of course. oh yeah, the inner covers are in excellent condition, not cracked, solid, tight, no play in them. i run without covers too, though i retain the inner covers until they're falling apart or i have some reason to go in and remove them. any EA82 people - do your marks line up perfectly? someone on the XT forum said theirs is the same way...drives side is slightly to the left rather than perfect.

if the wires are of unknown age then i'd be close to betting money it's the wires. i mean there are a lot of possibilities but EJ engines are very sensitive to plugs and wires. i don't know. i've had good experience with them in the past. but it is said the oil carries to the MAF and can make it sticky, dirty, and attract dirt and cause problems. a friend of mine just had his replaced on his newer truck for a couple hundred dollars and he has a K&N on his. coincidence?? so i've avoided them for a few years. they make MAF specific cleaner and any auto parts store should carry it, might want to make that part of your tune up.

to avoid confusion, this isn't about how to install the belts at all, that's not the issue/question. some dork did mess with this engine! i castrated a 87.5 XT Turbo and put a non-turbo engine in it. it does run fine, i took it for a drive and though it was very slow and gutless (even more than an EA82 should be), it ran and drove fine. idled very low - 450-500 rpm's. but it does run and drive. that's what i'm wondering....that 1/2 tooth off. are other EA82's like that or are you guys having any that line up exactly?

first questions are about tune up items: plugs and wires air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve ATF change O2 sensors are how old? has the MAF sensor ever been cleaned or have you ever used a oil style filter? timing belt is probably new since the engine went in? what engine went in - solid lifters or HLA's? if solid - were they adjusted before the install? coil pack could be suspect. if it does it all the time or consistently, i imagine you have others lying around to swap in place?

the cheap ones at advanced auto parts suck for this job, i can tell you that. fairly certain there's another thread already on here about good tools for doing this and even way to do it without using a "tool"! machine shops normally do this for you...and it really doesn't cost anything. let them replace the seals, it probably won't cost you any different whether you have that stuff removed or not.

12 volts straight to the pump. you can use the outlet from the fuel filter that way it's filtered. are EJ's in-tank pumps? on XT6 pumps i've pulled the hose prior to the pump and had tons of gas gush out on it's own, just due to gravity. not sure if it would have emptied the tank, i haven't "wanted" that to happen when it did! older generation cars have a "diagnostic mode" that you can enter just by plugging two green connectors together in the trunk. in this state the ECU cycles the fuel pump on for two seconds every two seconds....something like that. on....off....on....off. put the fuel filter hose into a gas can and you're golden. i don't think you can do that with the new ones though.

I'm used to XT6 timing belts marks, which you can get dead on. Am I expecting too much from the EA82 marks? On the drivers side it seems about 1/2 to the left or 1/2 to the right, it won't line up perfectly. It barely runs on the "1/2 to the right" placement, so it's obviously the left. When I line the cam hole up perfectly the 3 lines on the flywheel are definitely out of the picture. Last EA82 I did was last summer and I don't recall having this problem.

TIME OUT. looks like it might be a head gasket. got the engine up to operating temps to check out the timing and noticed bubbling in the overflow tank. woo hoo! i'll pull some spark plugs and have a look in the cylinders/leak down test.

Got my 87.5 XT project up and running today after sitting for a couple+ years. Crazy freak started right up. That was good news, but the idle is rough. *** EDIT *** lookin' like head gasket.....

john, you're the man, thanks bud. briggs on the xt forum has one and an exact match even...and i believe the bracket too. you are correct this is for an 87.5 XT Turbo vehicle and that's what he has.