idosubaru

i've done this both ways a number of times. get it high but not too high - the more the car is jacked up the more you'll need to make sure your hoist/chain/length/attach points are capable of clearing the car. put the car too high and the lift will max out before everything is high enough to yank the lump (engine+trans together). an EJ legacy auto is really tight but they do come out together. last one i did i pulled together. you'll need to get the angle of the trans just right to get it out. get the radiator out of the way and protect your a/c condensor on the front of the car. another simple options is to just partially pull the lump...then disconnect the transmission while it's hanging in the engine bay (properly braced/held, duh!). pull motor, set on ground, go back and pull trans. disconnecting the trans in it's normal operation position is annoying...not all that bad, but annoying still. if you're not going to be doing this a lot, then learning how to pull both probably isn't worth doing the first time around. dropping the trans or doing the partial pull to keep it simple is probably the quickest way for a one-time job.

it's really, really good practice to resurface the heads. i almost always do. for such a huge and important job, that no one cares to deal with again, it's not worth the $100-$150 savings. that being said, i'm not going to ignore that i've gasket-slapped a few in my day. none have had issues (yet, i know, i know!!). and i know lots of other people have gasket slapped quite a few. not ideal and i'm not recommending it, but it can work. if you like reliability though and risk isn't your game, it's not $150 worth deciding over. i've had people/friends not want to pay any more than the gasket costs to fix one and i'm not going to force or make them pay. now...i might refuse to do it the second time if it ever comes to that!!!!

from one comment i'm inferring that all EA82 power steering pumps are the same. it looks like XT's have a shorter reservoir to clear the hood but otherwise the pumps are all the same. any confirm that?

MAAHAHHAAA!!!!! awesome morning laugh!

oh yeah, that's a big deal. in general any impreza up to 1997 or legacy with an EJ22 up to 1997 as well will have cable clutch (like your legacy). not sure which EJ25's had hydraulic clutch but i think all the EJ25 GT, LSi, and sedans i've seen were hydraulic. not sure about the wagons but a lot of EJ25's won't work because of the hydraulic clutch.

i imagine the 3AT is a bit easier than the 4EAT, or simpler at least? does he have to do the wiring for the reverse lights to work? you might need the starter too? it's really nice to do this swap using a parts car. keep your eye out, they aren't hard to find really cheap or free.

check that - only EJ series vehicles will swap. EA/ER stuff (Gl wagons, XT6, XT's...etc will not work). To keep it simple (and cheap) any impreza or legacy trans will work up to 1997 (1990-1997). Later models will actually work as well but will require some customization that's not worth it since these transmissions are so easy to find anyway. The only issue is matching the final drive of the trans to the rear diff. To change the final drive ratios there's no "clutch work", just have to match the rear differential gear ratio. Get a trans to match your existing rear diff (figure out the ratio - should be a 3.9 or 4.11) or get a matching set trans and rear diff.

could you elaborate on those differences? if the EJ22 and EJ25 tensioner/pulley set up is identical then it's as simple as matching the belt to the cam sprockets - EJ25 belt and sprockets. i have none at this time to look at. it seem unlikely that as long as the marks are properly lined up there should be no reason for damage. of course i'd pay attention to where the old marks were and the new marks as well. but assuming the marks aren't off by any significant amount and the person doing it just ignores that, i can't see how damage would occur. i've never heard of problems with swapping cams like this, but it's not that common either so my experience to date is anecdotal.

mr. radon over on the subaruxt forum did a auto to manual conversion on an XT6, should be very similar since EA82 and XT6 transmissions, driveline, and rear ends are interchangeable. i'm not sure if it matters but a 3AT verses a 4EAT auto (both offered in EA82's) might make a difference? might want to post what vehicle and/or trans you have now.

yep, swap cam sprockets. the notches on the back of the cam sprockets need to be where the computer expects them. for later models EJ25 computer needs to see EJ25 cam pulses.

i laughed too, it is amazing how simple it looks and how difficult it is. i found that out the hard way before i knew anything about cars or subaru's. i thought it looked easy, dropped all the pan bolts only to figure out there was no way to remove the pan and replace the gasket. too late, i already had it unbolted. so mr. college kid who knows nothing about cars had to *learn* how to jack up the engine to get the pan off. my modis operandi "if someone else can do it, i can do it" gets me in deep doo-doo sometimes but you learn a lot that way.

if your mechanic has always been trustworthy then best to give him the benefit of the doubt. if you've noticed no symptoms it's obviously not an actual problem yet. i'm with hocrest in thinking the residue from the old one leaking is still there and looks like it's a valve cover gasket leak, they have no way of knowing it was recently replaced.

looks like that link works, so snag it while it's good.

awesome! the hardware was actually taped to the receiver part of the hitch. it was packaged so tight and taped up so much i didn't realize it was under there. i also have a set of installation directions. the .pdf is too large to post though, it's 122kb or i'd post it here. not sure how to render an adobe file smaller? the directions say this hitch installs without drilling, it's a bolt on affair - 45 minutes? hmmm...we'll see about that!? it says to use that 1 1/4" frame rail plug opening to bolt to. it comes with spacers to put in there i believe? i'll let you know when i get a chance to mess with it. actually i'll post a link the company sent me. not sure how long or if it will work but give it a try and save this if you need it: http://fileresource.sitepro.com/filemanager/66/filecollections/252/CF6EA2DA-1E7A-E3DD-3D16-8D5ED007C146.pdf

there's another thread about 95 TCU's and stuff and how to get rid of the EGR code. it was active in the past few months, that might help. it goes into detail about how the 95 ECU detects manual (no EGR) or automatic (EGR). a user used this info to get rid of the EGR code. i'd look for that thread. i would guess your EGR code is going to show up at some point. after the swaps i've done it usually takes awhile to throw those. the 95 ECU alone won't solve this...it will take some massaging.

Yep Tim, that's all you need to do. Swap the camsprockets from the EJ25 onto the EJ22 and you're golden.

Since the FSM's don't make finding this very easy and I couldn't find it here i'm posting it for future reference. Although I know it's been posted before...i think i've even posted it, I couldn't find it today. These are the bolts that need torqued if you're replacing the intake manifold gasket that leaks coolant into the intake. 18-22 Nm 13-16ft/lb

there's one way to find out, you could try it and attempt to start it. it won't hurt it to try. now as far as driving i have no idea.

thanks miles and JCE. funny thing mr. miles, mine says uhaul on it. but it didn't come with any hardware....like the captive nut/bracket thingy. i don't have any of that. do they typically come with installation hardware (when bought new?).

okay i have the tow hooks, but they're like welded on, not bolted on like the impreza. so it looks like you'll have to drill at least some if not all the holes as well? thanks, i guess mine is usable, i'll check this weekend. no need to appologize i'm in no rush about it. heck i was thinking i wouldn't get any replies or people that recall the details, this is fantastic help!

fantastic, thanks psycho, i'll try and compare these pictures to mine. do you have any shots of the other side? that appears to be the drivers side? that doesn't look terribly different than mine. it did look *close* so maybe it is right. but i'm almost positive my legacy doesn't have any holes or tow points on it???

I have a 1996 AWD Legacy LSi Sedan body. I ordered a Legacy hitch it's supposed to be for a 1990-1999 Legacy. It doesn't appear to fit. But at the same time there do not appear to be any bolt holes. The impreza has a few bolt holes for the tow hooks that it's hitch easily bolted to. Am I missing something or how does a Legacy hitch attach? Thanks, Gary

i've tried to pull those oil pick up tubes out of blocks before. they are VERY hard to get out. i'd look for some comments or suggestions...actually i've never taken one out. i've tried to thinking why not replace the stupid oring underneath, but was never able to get them out. they are either pressed in place or can be very difficult to remove for some other reason?

WHAT - JB WELD!!! okay seriously i hate that stuff anyway.... no need to pull the engine. the sump i think hangs more towards the back, it looks okay but will just depend on whether or not the baffles were pushed into it. it helps to have the new pan you're going to install sitting there next to you as you remove the old one. then you can see the baffles and it helps you snake the sump through for the pan to come off. not that it's hard but if lighting is bad, you don't have the car far off the ground, etc it may help.

i recently did this on a legacy and didn't have any problem finding everything i needed here, including links to the appropriate endwrench articles detailing everything. my first time diagnosing and repairing ABS was a cinch. if i could recall anythign i'd tell you, but with a few searches you'll find it (just don't use "ABS" or any other 3 letter acronyms in the search - though you can try *ABS or ABS*, just to give it 4 digits.)