idosubaru

the manual trans XT6 can get that as well on all highway driving.

hmmm, definitely sounds like something to check out. safety is nothing to play with. sounds like the struts need to be looked at - strut, spring, mounts, bushings, sway bars? what does the rust look like back there? you have the stock tire size? i'd also check for significant rust (kind of early though considering it's a 99) and compromised steering rack bushings, although that would probably also cause a general pulling feel even while driving straight and a tendency to need constant correction.

+1. i'd avoid using WD40 inside an engine like the plague. but maybe i don't know what i'm talking about?

Automatics only. Any manual trans is a conversion. FWD or AWD, AWD being much more prominent (at least in most areas). The automatic transmissions have a high failure rate, but just install a transmission cooler and they're good to go. Wheel bearings are a bad point, torque the wheels properly. Another downside to the SVX is the cost of parts. Parts can be very expensive, not just from Subaru but often times aftermarket isn't available or used ones are expensive due to supply/demand as well. Look up TPS, Windshields, maybe others can suggest more, etc and you'll see. Great cars, extremely reliable engine with lots of power. Comfortable and great for long trips. Gas mileage isn't that bad. Huck with an SVX engine (EG33), and a manual trans in an XT6 gets 30+ mpg highway mileage.

let us know exactly what you did, Andy is on to your problems. you installed something wrong but without details i'm not sure what. the distributor timing is annoying to get correct. the easiest way is to look at a known good engine or picture of one. the distributor needs to be lined up with the drivers side cam (so use the cam pulley as a reference). one option is to get another engine with the d/s cam timing mark lined up and install your distributor to match exactly. that's just an easy way to do it but there's any number of methods. don't mess with anything else until you're sure that is correct. once it is then you'll want to verify your timing belt timing. electrical timing, timing belt timing, and distributor alignment are adjusted and worked on independently. don't get them confused by thinking they're the same or use the same procedures/marks or use them in the same way. they don't.

yes Subaru itself installs the conditioner on 2000-2002 EJ25 engines. the 00+ EJ25 headgaskets are easier to see than others. look at the rear head to block mating surface by popping the hood. they leak along the back side - facing the driver so to speak, along that seam. head gaskets are a $1,500 repair. add on any additional items to be done while you're in there...rear separator, timing belt, water pump, etc since all of that has to come off to repair. i would look at the H6 gas mileage figures, i'm not sure it's all that far off of the EJ25.

if it were me i'd be looking for an early 2000-2002 Outback LL Bean edition H6 with leather seats. i haven't noticed a huge difference in those model years. except the transmission delay issues (nip mentioned earlier) and speedometer issues. those are mostly 1999 year issues for some reason, but there are a handful of 2000's that see those as well. if 2002 is a better year...it's marginally better. that subaru uses it's coolant additive in 2002 vehicles doesn't bode well for 2002 being substantially better than 2001 as far as that matter is concerned. this is a long and detailed discussion, with no end, about EJ25 head gasket issues, but you keep pushing those buttons so it's going to get deep fast. it used to be thought that the head gasket problem was "fixed" some time in 2002 (probably part of the reason you're seeing that year), but it is looking like that might not be the case since there are 03..04 EJ25's showing up with problems...and it appears the date keeps increasing with time. there's no convincing data (good luck getting subaru to report head gasket sales or repair data!!!) to show us the truth, so personally i wouldn't believe any years or numbers thrown at you. lots of manufacturers bored blocks bigger and pushed the limits of engine design and fabrication in the late 90's..this isn't a "subaru" issue alone. larger bores/higher performance outpaced reliability. whether they've made the right changes and it's back to the same integrity as before is yet to be determined. up to 2002 it's definitely not. it's not a large percentage but no one really knows either, like i said subaru doesn't release that kind of information so it's all speculation.

i'm only familiar with living in areas where significant snow is possible and it is worth the safety here. ski resorts and living in the mountains are two completely different animals. and yes snow tires aren't very good performers all around. ha - rotating every weekend you're traveling would be super annoying! no way i'd do that, i'd just use that as an excuse to buy another soob (which is why i've owned like 30 and have 4......or 5...or i think 6). i haven't heard much about the 2000-2001 "transition" year stuff. the 99's (and a handful of 2000's) have delayed shifting (auto's) and speedometer issues.

dedicated snow tires are huge. there is no comparison between all seasons and snow tires. $400 over 4 or 5 years = $100 or less a year for the biggest safety improvement you can make on your vehicle. go to tirerack and check out their reviews, they have a fair amount. i'm sure other tire stores probalby have online reviews as well. i'd use a search engine or known tire sites like that for tire feedback.

keep your eye out for torque bind and head gaskets (on 2.5 4 cylinder engines only). you can read all you want about them here, search function comes in handy. the 00-05 models only leak externally and are much easier to spot than the earlier models. and also...if they do leak generally they just consume coolant and only overheat if they get low, so keep it full and you won't get stranded with an overheating engine (like the older models which overheat even when full of coolant). torque bind is generally 'caused' but there is no way to preventively avoid head gasket issues. if you're getting a well maintained one owner vehicle it's unlikely you'll have torque bind. with proper tire maintenance (pressure, tread, and rotation) that's normally not an issue. that's about it other than the general automotive checks for a used car.

I would also ask what to look for when buying a subaru outback. Headgasket issues. Search "head gasket" here or on any search engine to find out about the EJ25 engine in Subaru Outbacks. The later 2000+ Outback engines are more tolerable (won't leave you stranded if they do fail) than the older DOHC style (if they fail you are stranded). Or just get the H6 engine to avoid that. Also be sure to know how to check for torque bind, you can search here to find that out. Maintenance will depend on vehicle and mileage so this is a bit arbitrary and hypothetical. The H6 model doesn't get the coolant conditioner you have on your list nor does it need a timing belt (has a timing chain), so the maintenance advisements are different and will depend which year/model you purchase. I'd pass on the power steering flush and fuel system cleaner. Just add your own cleaner into the first couple of tanks and call it a day. no way to put a price tag on this without more details. $300 - $2,000 depending what all you do from this list and who does the work. timing belt and brakes alone could surpass $1,000 easily depending what all is done, rates, parts, shop, etc. $700 timing belt and $500 brakes is not at all uncommon for a dealership. Unless there's records of replacement add thermostat, radiator cap, air filter, and fuel filter and probably ATF filter (if it's a 98+ = they have an external screw on type if it's a 1998+ model) to your maintenance recommendations.

that's probably what "totalled" the car and gave him a smoking deal!

awesome good job. wouldn't be a bad idea to get a Subaru PCV valve while it's on your mind. after markets sometimes cause problems.

it's hard to see but i hope it's not what appears to be next to that coolant passage? i would hope it's in a meatier part of the block. is that where the headgasket was blown? i think it's odd to have significant piece of material missing for no reason. i wonder if it locally overheated there and wore the metal away? i've seen that happen before on blown headgasket engines that were driven too long that way. significant material loss on the block where the head gasket failed.

the dealer is just going to charge you $500-$1,000 for new clutches and skip all of the other steps i mentioned...like checking tires, FWD fuse, and fluid changes. they'll skip most if not all of that. you can easily look at tires and install a fuse. the fuse installation takes 5 seconds, no tools. if you can open a can of peanut butter you can do this.

manual and automatics have completely different AWD components and failures. manual info won't be applicable for her. this is how your mechanic should have proceeded. would have been better to ask here, then take to the mechanic. and "No" you do not want to be driving it like this, it can cause further damage. 1. tires should be checked first. they need to be the same size, proper air pressure, and same tread depth. 2. install the FWD fuse right now and tell us whether the torque bind goes away or not (this tells us something important). if it works you want to continue to drive it in FWD. driving it as is will cause more damage and is not good on the vehicle. 3. transmission fluid needs to be flushed or changed a few times 4. try a transmission fluid additive 5. if the torque bind is permanent you have the option of of removing the rear half of the driveshaft and just running it like that. it will essentially be FWD that way (do NOT use the FWD fuse in this case). just remove the driveshaft. at the very least, do this until you decide how/when to fix it. 6. you mechanic can fix this, it's not all that difficult, just replace the rear transfer clutches. it can be done without even removing the transmission from the car.

rebuilt engines and transmissions are overkill on this car. they're too cheap and readily available to warrant that kind of work unless it's for a very specific reason. the Ej18/EJ22 in that car is rock solid. don't run it out of oil or overheat it and it will last as long as you care to maintain it and replace leaky oil seals.

there's tons of information on this site. practice with the search function and you'll come up with it. there's pictures, info and part numbers all posted here.

often you're even better off with a used subaru unit than aftermarket. these fail so rarely that i'd just get a used one rather than aftermarket or new from $ubaru. could be other things but i'm with these guys, i'd want a Subaru unit in there before digging into other stuff.

success! i had 16" 2006 Forester XT Turbo wheels/tires on it. They're a bit larger than the regular WRX, impreza, and legacy 16" tires. They actually rub a little on bumps or carrying heavy loads in my impreza and legacy. I dropped down to 15" legacy LSi wheels and it was much better. I could hold 70 mph up the really steep mountains no problem, it just held cruise speed and drove like normal. Drove much better. Too bad, those Forester Turbo wheels are nice, guess they go back on the XT6! The EJ18 can't handle gear ratio changes like the XT6.

can't say without seeing it. could go either way. try fitting a head gasket against the block and put all the head bolts in place, then take a picture of that area and post it.

bad gas? plugs, wires, ignition coil, fuel filter, air filter, vacuum leak, MAF, TPS

stinky stink. time to look for another Tom!

HELLO you goobers. just get the electric supercharger off ebay. instant 20hp and 10 mpg!

there's not much that "has" to be done with a head gasket job. if money is tight you're not going to want to do all the proper machine shop work that should be done with a head gasket job anyway...valve job, mill, and pressure test. so you don't need the main components that come with the head gasket set...you'll just be paying for a bunch of parts you dont' "need" - like fuel injector seals, valve stem seals (which you probably won't even use)...etc. i'm not recommending it, but saying you can probably get away with it. so that being said if i were doing this on a tight budget i'd get Fel Pro permatorques ($22) and 2 new cam carrier orings ($2.13 x 2 = $4.26). and a tube of sealant for the cam carriers. you don't need the complete head gasket kit at all. you can do valve covers, cam seals, crank, oil pump and all that jazz later on down the road as needed or as funds are avaialable.