idosubaru

they also sell bottles with a brush/applicator lid. having the entire bottle on hand is nice and is enough to do quite a few brake jobs.

my bad, i didn't realize anyone replied to that! i replied based on the way i did it last, but i was already underneath doing something else. something in my memory hinted that there's one configuration (engine/trans/4wd?) out there that isn't accessible from the top but maybe i'm mistaken on that or maybe it's an old gen model...or none!? top it is. even from the bottom, at least on some you essentially have to reach through and do it from inside the engine bay from the bottom anyway due to the ridges on the exhaust so from up top seems like a big winner.

wow, nice job! 1.5cyl/person, good work! i don't even see any pic's or comments about rusted or seized bolts! being a replacement motor and having been broken loose before probably helped.

you're fine, that minuscule difference means nothing. it would be spec'ed different just due to the front and rear diff not being anything alike. but it doesn't matter here.

do your O2 sensor from underneath. including the standard engine tune up stuff, change the transmission gear oil. brakes are huge, i find EJ brakes tend to be more sticky and troublesome than the older XT6 brakes i frequently play with. i've seen mileage go up 2-4 mpg after a proper brake job. the adjective "proper" is important. have you had any recent brake work done and if so did they regrease the caliper slide pins? that should always be done on every single brake job, but it's an easy step to forgo by mechanics getting paid "per job". unless you specifically ask there's no way to ensure that it was done. i'd pull both front and rear calipers up and regrease the slides with brake caliper grease. then of course go ahead and replace any pads that need replaced. keep an eye on your tires, particularly the fronts. if you see any uneven wear over time, get an alignment done. now, don't go do it just to do it because alignments are a big joke really. hundreds of thousands of people a year are paying for alignments they don't need. but...tire wear tells you if you need it or not, so keep an eye on those.

what are you having a problem with? i'm guessing you can't get the caliper arm to budge? there's only one bolt to remove i believe. you might be encountering rust issues, i've found rear legacy caliper arms very difficult to swing up once the bolt is removed. it's just due to lack of grease and rusted caliper sliding pins. use a hammer or jack on the ears of the caliper arm to get it to start sliding upwards (once the bolt is properly removed of course!!!!). once you get it up you're next problem will be pushing the caliper arm in towards the car to get it to come off the top pin that it pivots on. that can be tricky too. have some PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Deep Creep (do not use WD40) ready to try and squirt in there. be sure to take it all apart, clean up all the sliding portions and grease them with brake caliper grease only.

peak through the bellhousing access hole and check to see if the engine and trans are both spinning together. this will rule out a cracked flexplate if the car isn't moving. i'm also wondering if the trans/engine was ever removed? i wonder if there's a chance they didn't properly seat the torque converter and fubared the trans oil pump? this is what they do, although i don't think you'd hear much grinding. seems like a bad diff or improperly seated TQ. all of the bad diffs i've heard are REALLY loud, is that about like this one? if you pull both axles you might be able to notice some play in the diff axle stubs (if the front diff is to blame).

nah, here's one in your area for $200 (actually they have 2 if you want some spares): 1-800-243-6554 EJ22's and EJ25's are not comparable. both of your vehicles are EJ25 equipped vehicles. those engines are more expensive and harder to get. i can sell those for $500 with blown headgaskets and $1,000 with good headgaskets, i wouldn't let those go for cheap either. the demand is too high due to the headgasket issues. EJ25's = easy to sell, high demand, high prices. EJ22's = hard to get rid of. EJ18's and EJ22's are a dime a dozen due to their lack of issues.

definitely not. that's a Phase II SOHC EJ25, yours is a Phase I DOHC EJ25. significant differences with that phase change.

your best bet is buying a complete car. it's not hard to find an XT6 in decent shape for a few hundred. i've gotten a ton of XT6's for free or next to nothing. same idea holds true if you want to do a conversion, get a complete vehicle.

i would guess the front diff or a cracked torque converter flex plate (assuming you've ruled out the CV's). unfortunately when front diffs fail i would essentially describe it much as you just did, so you might be right larry. have you tried to drive it? might try draining the front diff to see if any fun stuff comes out with the gear oil.

power steering pumps typically leak where the reservoir sits on the pump, there's an oring there usually. just replace it. best to take the old one off and go find a suitable alternative at the auto parts store, they usually have trays of them.

very easy to replace...if you don't have any rust to deal with. if you have rust be ready to have a good set of tools, a torch, lots of PB blaster, Liquid Wrench or Deep Creep (WD40 is not a suitable alternative). i've never got an alignment after replacing a ball joint and have never had a problem. just make sure you mark the top strut mount bolt, it's an eccentric bolt and is used for alignment. you'll realize what i mean when you pull it out. so mark it with a marker so you can install it exactly as it is. mark the relation of the bolt head to the strut body. (don't mark the nut or washer, those don't matter!). do that and no alignment necessary. i always keep my eyes on my tires....being a 4WD subaru they need to be rotated anyway, if any ever start wearing unevenly then and only then do i get an alignment....and i've never gotten an alignment in like my last 200,000+ miles of subaru driving. totally uneccessary unless you're taking apart very specific things that rarely come apart. alignments are a big scam in all reality.

timing belt is a "60,000 mile replacement" item. oil seals replace upon inspection..if it's leaking and wet then replace it. the pulleys are typically noisy and not smooth by now. they're 20 years old and devoid of grease. this is true of any 20 year old vehicle, not just subaru's. i always get the ebay kits, you can get them for like $89 (off the top of my head) and they include all new pulleys. well worth the increase in reliability it for such a cheap price. or you can inspect and replace individually but they tend to be expensive bought one at a time. old pulleys will seize and break your belt again, so replacing them is ideal but not necessary. if that extra reliability isn't worth it to you then don't worry about it. water pumps are often recommended as well because if they fail you have to remove the timing belt to replace it.

you can weld the diff just from under the vehicle? how do you get access and such to the gears for welding? good thing it was just an axle, that should be easier than the diff welding i'd imagine and it might even be under warranty (if you don't tell them about the welded diff!) fresh paint for a derby car? wow, you're intense!

welcome aboard! you're funny, one of the few people that joins when they buy a new subaru!

yep - on the top of the transmission bell housing is an access hole (sometimes covered by a roughly 1"x1" black rubber plug if it isn't lost to time). rotate the engine until you see a good spot in the flexplate to insert a socket extension. then crank the 22mm pulley bolt loose. you will almost certainly need a pipe over your socket, a breaker bar, or if you're unkind to your sockets and have nothing else a hammer will suffice as your new "impact socket". inspect all of your idler pulleys and seals while you're in there - crank seal, oil pump seals, cam seals, cam cap orings. replace any noisey pulleys or leaking seals.

yes that's the ring seal i'm referring too. glad it's still there, sounds like you're good to go!

i'd look into it, but i'd probably offer him $100 as you are taking a risk by buying this thing. EJ engines are cheap around me, so maybe the market where you are is different? last one i bought had 100,000 miles, ran perfect, from a yard, with a warranty for $150.

definitely don't need any special tools to do a timing belt.

wow....awesome!!!! i've seen even MPFI's that wouldn't run right until you reach higher RPM's due to an oil cap leak. definitley get yourself a new oil cap and they have a rubber oring/seal on them as well, replace that too. i've removed some hoses (mostly coolant) from MPFI set ups. like the coolant hose to the throttle body, i've never had a problem doing that. the PCV hoses are annoying to look at, but best to leave them. on an XT6 (6 cylinder ER27 MPFI) i've seen some people remove all the hoses from the valve covers (the PCV system hoses) and install breathers on the valve covers. don't think this would work on the EA82 though, they're more sensitive to opening up the system....any idea why that is GD?

the redline stuff is recommended quite a bit here. saw Kendall limited slip gear oil recommended a few times. it's been a couple years since i changed mine so i don't remember. found this while searching: From the book: Fluid recommendations Use gear oil with API classification GL-5 for open differentials and GLS for limited slip differential. Viscosity should be: *SAE 90-above 30 deg F *SAE 85W-above 30 def F *Sae 80W-below 0 def F

air filter, fuel filter, PCV are all good maintenance items anyway if they've never been replaced. any basic history of this car....miles, any recent tune ups at all? there's a ton of things actually that could cause this, not necessarily intake related. how old is the timing belt? Usually you would get a Check Engine light if a sensor signal is causing issues. But not always. Do you know if the Check Engine Light works, does it come on when you first turn the ignition on? FPR - fuel pressure regulator. it's in line with the fuel supply and should have a vaccum hose on it, not sure how the SPFI is set up. pull the vacuum to the FPR, if it's wet inside of it then the FPR is ruptured, just replace it. check all of your sensor connections - corroded harness connectors are VERY common. the CTS (coolant temperature sensor) is a good one to check. TPS and MAF are possibilities but based on your description i would rule out the things mentioned above.

quit trying to change his mind! ha ha. he's already annoyed with my suggestions, the first being to help him get the carb he wants??

try putting a post in the parts wanted forum for a carb set up. i'd guess someone has a complete intake and carb available....and probably distributor stuff too. you might be better off fixing the problem you have instead of putting all the time and effort into an antiquated, less efficient, and less reliable set up. the FI stuff isn't that hard to work on, apparently it's just matter of opinion because i can't stand carbs. i won't post any suggestions on fixing your SPFI but if you start another thread asking about that you'll get some responses.