idosubaru

as soon as i buy one i get Magnecor wires, which never need replaced so no worries about when or mileage. i've transfered the same set over the multiple vehicles...probably putting 200,000+ miles on one set, they are awesome. been putting them on all my vehicles for years and recommending them to friends. nothing but awesome feedback so far.

a buddy has the same motor, manual trans in a hatch, FWD and gets over 30 rather easily in his. the auto is probably killing you, those old automatics are junk (in my opinion).

this is really hard to say and there's no way to conclusively determine anything. first you need to make sure that it just didn't get an air pocket in it. how do they know it's headgaskets? did they test it? did they get all the air pockets out? EJ engines are a little tricky (not that hard, but harder than older subaru engines) to get all the air out of the system. they can overheat for unknown reasons if all the air isn't out. sounds like you need to get the car away from them and find out for sure what's wrong. maybe it's just low on coolant/air bubble. maybe it's just the radiator...thermostat ($15), water pump...need some facts, there's a lot of randomness here. if it turns out the head gasket is blown that sucks. the for sure sign of EJ25 headgasket failure is bubbling out of the overflow tank once it overheats...even afer turning the car off. are you positive it never overheated before taking it in or acted funny? does anyone else drive the car...wife, child, parent that might have not noticed it overheating prior? unfortunately the EJ25 is a headgasket blower, they fail often enough that it's going to be nearly impossible to prove it's anyones fault. if it was an EJ22 or EJ18, then i'd definitely blame them. but just type in "subaru headgasket" on any search engine and watch the complaints, webpages, etc about it. a nice piece of information would be to know whether or not for the first time you saw coolant all around the battery whether it was from the radiator or overflow tank?

i'll go ahead and say read GD's posts again. it is unlikely you replaced these orings being talked about. you are talking about cam orings, he is talking about cam carrier orings. they are usually around 2.13 from subaru. this oil seapage you're talking about is likely very minor and not a big deal. i'd get a gauge on how much it's actually leaking and let us know before you take the plunge on fixing it. it's not going to cause any engine problems, no matter what it is. and it's certainly not a sign that bad things are in the future at all. "some" oil leaks cause problems. not "all" oil leaks cause problems. usually it's the later and not a big deal. that's most likely where you are. if you keep this engine from overheating or running out of oil it would be extremely odd to have any major issues with it any time soon.

thanks for starting a thread brian, it's easier to look at. this was one question i had when talking to you before. a 1995 EJ22 ECU i don't think is going to work. i can send you one to try if you like, from a 1995 Legacy. PM me to work that out. it wouldn't work in my 1996 EJ25 Legacy (converted to EJ18/EJ22 hybrid). same deal, i have no EGR in mine. okay this is where we differ, i do not care about the light. i think the typical solution is to find the pinouts for the EGR stuff it's looking for and splice in a resistor of the same value. i do not know how to do that. maybe some day i'll think about it, but right now i'm not. if someone tells me where and what resistor to use i'll try it for you, but i probably won't have time to play and figure it out myself...not considering i don't care about the light. this might sound bizarre but if you wanted to retain EGR (or get rid of the light), then get an EGR equipped EJ22 and just plumb the EGR pipe into the exhaust header. that wouldn't be all that difficult. the thread size is readily available at hardware stores, i went there to find a plug to block mine off. my engine actually had EGR, so i could have easily installed it, i just didn't want it. so it would be easy to create some plumbing for it. i can't stand the EGR set up. it's added unreliability for zero gain as far as i'm concerned.

the short answer is it won't be an LSD. there's about a 1% chance of it having one. i've owned about 20 XT6's...and seen a bunch more, and i've never seen an LSD on one (except for the ones that i install!) you probably don't want the trans, if it's a 3.7 then it's an auto. the manuals were 3.9's. if you're pulling the parts, take some punches/chisels with you (assuming you don't have that rear bearing tool) so you can back out that rear castle retaining nuts, it's huge. you probably know what i'm talking about. but rust might make that rear control arm a bear to remove. with some punches and chisels you could at least get the inner hub out. good luck!

clutch related - pilot or throw out bearings. any history of vibrations - i'd start sniffing out the front axles. have those ever been replaced? though a whine doesn't sound like that. is it minor or loud, can you feel it? heat shields make lots of buzzing, vibrating noises too that change with load. seems like more soobs than not that i buy have hose clamps around the heat shields to hold them tight! it's best to use descriptive titles. you'll attract more people that have experienced the same thing with descriptive titles.

me either....shhhh, don't tell, i didn't want to start one of "those" debates again. if this guy wants to, no harm in a little gunk on his finger and threads.

other years will work just fine (i and others have done it). but....it is very confusing. subaru made things very confusing in some areas and this is one of them. thye changed part numbers like underwear. the main thing you need to make sure the final drive ratio is the same. actually you can even change your final drive ratio so long as you swap the rear diff to match. otherwise this is going to be a plug and play item for you. there are two automatic final drive ratios you'll run across 4.11 and 4.44, im not sure which yours will be but someone will know. you'll want a 1995-1998 transmission. make sure the 1998 does not have a screw on external filter, as that would indicate the next generation transmission and will incur some differences. i don't believe the 4.44 gearing was offered in 1995, so if yours ends up being a 4.44 final drive then you might be stuck with 96-98 transmissions. or, you could just swap a 1995 in and change the rear diff too so it matches. i just put a 95 (from an EJ22) into a 96 (originally EJ25) into a 4WD auto Legacy. ran fine, direct bolt in swap.

yep, the RTV type stuff you'd use on cam cases, oil pump, separator plate will work fine.

AWESOMENESS. Gloyale you're the bomb! thanks a bunch, i won't have to deal with that lateral link bolt, i know it'll be nearly welded in place.

gotcha, there are tons of high mileage subaru's with the original gear oil in it. they can easily get by with never changing. 100k is a great mileage to consider changing it, i would. i'd bump to a high quality synthetic.

you can also look at the bottom left of this screen right now and see other similar threads to yours. there are 5 other differential threads there. check those out and/or check out the search gizmo.

owners manual is always an excellent reference for stuff like this, which varies with usage. if you don't have one you can usually post in the parts wanted forum or look on ebay and get them for chump change. auto or manual trans? 1 of the gear oil bottles is enough to fill to capacity, and at 110,000 miles i'd probably change it.

the XT forum has been down all weekend, the right people know and are working on a fix, hang tight. thanks usmb for letting us post here!

OH WOW LOOK TOTO! an opportunity for me to talk bad about carbs. i hate them. they are mostly ignored for a reason. if need outweighs pitifully antiquated technology, there's no point in strapping yourself or putting yourself in a corner either if you have another option. so you're going to be running a Turbo block (low compression pistons) without a turbo? maybe stick with the carb then, is it worth the effort for MS to you? what are your plans with this thing? i haven't looked in a while but when i did i didn't see enough reliable MS soob projects to consider doing it myself. i've read a ton of MS stuff and thought about doing it in the past but just didn't see the results i was looking for. my lack of electrical wizardry (though higher than my carb wizardry) makes me reluctant to try MS just for kicks. depends mostly on available resources...so what's your tool and equipment list, available extra vehicles, married w/kids?, work schedule, weekly schedule, tax returns and current salary?

The rear diff and both axles need to come off a 96 Legacy sedan. So will the rear axles come off by dropping the rear diff alone? I know you can do that on the XT6 but with pinned axles that's a big difference from the EJ axle through set up. So I think i'm hosed? I'll have to remove that pinch bolt that is guaranteed to be seized...which is what i'm worried about. One bolt requiring two hours of labor is really annoying. Can I at least only remove one axle? After that the diff should drop and the other side can slide out without messing with the hub/bolt, right?

are you serious? you found a soob trans randomly dumped in the woods?! wow! wow! you're really welding suspension points back in place? how do you do that and what is being welded?

it's really easy. line up passengers side cam, line up crank sprocket, line up drivers side cam. install belt and make sure the cams don't rotate a tooth off (easy to do depending how you install or release the tensioner). double check AFTER you install to make sure they're still lined up. there's nothing fancy to it - make sure three marks are lined up correctly and you're done.

when i was looking and bought mine i never saw any 1 1/4" 4 bike racks, looks like there are some out there now. i'll check into them.

history - did it run before and why did you install a new belt - the old one broke or it was time? check your timing marks again, are you using the right ones? there are additional marks sometimes on the crank sprocket, are you sure you're using the right ones? if it was running and then you changed the belt and now is not running.....something isn't put together right. either something youu disconnected while you were in there is not reconnected or the timing belt isn't installed properly. check everything you touched.

thanks guys - you were on it. looked at it further and sure enough 3 wires were cut right in half at that boot covered hinge joint. now....how do i get enough wire to work with to replace it!? should i try and solder wire to wire here and then tape really good? for anyone in the future, some notes: there are three connectors in the plate covered access hole behind the rear passengers side tail light. it's very easy to check continuity since access to everything is simple. remove plate for access to those connectors and the cover over the wiper motor is really easy to remove - just some tabs to pop out. this gives access to the other connectors (except the brake light i suppose - i didn't have to check that). the 4 pronged connector is for the wiper motor. all the wire colors match up except one is black at the motor and green/black in the access hole (or the other way around?). the 2 pronged connector is for the defrost. and i didn't check but i assume the 3 prong connector is for the brake lights.

you mean the boot where the wires pass from body to hatch - close to the hinges at the top? the boots and wires contained in them look good. a connector for the defrost was slightly melted and corroded...but didn't "look" like it was a broken circuit. i pulled it apart anyway, but there's no power to it when i turn the defrost on. i'll leave it disconnected until i figure the wiper out. i should be able to check for continuity between parts and the wiring harness - the end connectors are easily accessible behind the passengers side rear tail light.

i try gently pulling it out a hair, then pushing in, pull out (tiny bit), turn a tiny amount, push in, pull out, turn, push in....keep repeating until it goes in. try and make a mark, measurement or mental of note of how it sits when it's NOT seated so you know for sure when it goes in. even the last one i did took quite awhile and i've done a bunch before.

1997 Impreza OBS automatic. Fuses are good. And the rear squirter works. The rear wiper doesn't work - but the motor runs if i give it power directly. When i turn it on there's no power at the plug on the motor, as far as i can tell. The rear defrost doesn't work. How do i test these things further?