idosubaru

turn the engine over (preferrably by hand using a socket, but you can use the starter) and see what the timing belt does. you want to verify that the cam sprocket is indeed turning with the belt. most likely the drivers side timing belt is hosed. you pulled the side cover and since you were just pulling in the driveway the belt snapped but the car wasn't driven enough to really tear the belt up. it's now broken down by the crank shaft (which you can't see), so it "appears" okay by the cam sprocket - where you pulled the cover off. check the entire belt and the tensioner. turning the engine over will tell you whether the timing belt is functioning properly or not. i suppose the distributor/cam gear interface could be hosed but that would be odd.

$500-$800 is about right depending on condition/options...leather, sunroof, paint, etc. it's very dependent on the market. it's "possible" to get $1,000, just unlikely. if we told everyone in the US $1,000....probably 1 out of 100 might sell for that. if you go for $500 then it'll be 80/100 will sell. made up numbers but i think you get the picture.

you should be able to unplug the battery for an extended period...like over night. or you could dig into fuses/fusible links and pull the one for the ECU. if this is for emissions reasons though, there's a chance it may not pass. they can tell if it's recently been cleared. and of course autozone, advanced auto's and tons of other auto places will read and clear codes for free.

a brief shot of heat directed at the bolts shouldn't hurt the spring should it? maybe try a smaller torch if yours is too large for those close distances? a search for lock-tite online might garner some good suggestions or even a visit to their website? if you have any other flywheel bolts, thread them into something with the same locktite and torque and come back the following day to see what happens. might not want to reassemble with it next time? good luck, hope you get those jokers out!

woo hoo, i've never seen that before but figured that had to be the case. that's the only reason the fluid was coming out then. it was adhered to the shaft and no longer sealing properly. yes - fluid comes out of that rear area where the driveshaft slides into, it's supposed to do that. don't make it do it any more! this should be really simple. install new seal, install new driveshaft and you're done. and yes, the male end of the driveshaft (the really shiny, clean part) slides into the transmission through the new seal you're going to install.

getting a distributor onto an EJ would be annoying, then you'd have to custom fit everything else as well. if the throttle sizes aren't identical the TPS/ECU isn't going to like the EJ..so you'd have to figure out some custom throttle body size adapter majiggathingy. seems like a pain to me.

he emailed me a picture and the seal is not present on the transmission. i would inspect the driveshaft, maybe it is stuck to the end of the driveshaft that slides into the transmission. check there and let us know. otherwise it must have been damaged horribly to completely fall out...that sounds nearly impossible though, at least not without complete destroying your trans tail housing too. in your email you mention the leak (drip) comes from the "bellhousing", what is that? the bellhousing is the front of the transmission where it bolts to the engine, but i think you mean something else on the rear of the trans?

usually the studs hold fine when reused, did you torque them enough?

you'll have to use an EJ22 flexplate or use the EJ25 torque converter. you should be able to use the EJ25 torque converter, but i don't know if the shaft of that tube that attaches to it got damaged with the oil pump as well? be mindful of that goofy ring seal around the shaft that attached to the torque converter, make sure that stays in place and isn't damaged in anyway.

it's not hard for some oil/coolant to spill into the exhaust pipes and then cause some smoking on start up. seems less likely with EJ's, but not impossible. might just be some residual coolant/oil burning out, i've seen that plenty of times. or it could be exhaust. did you use the subaru gasket? i've seen some craptastic aftermarket gaskets that aren't very robust looking. the exhaust manifold typically seals rather easily though, i've actually reused exhaust gaskets a number of times on the headers. did any of the studs come out or strip when removing/reinstalling?

not exactly, TCU's and ECU's very rarely fail. but of course it could happen. if there's an input from a sensor causing the TCU to act erratically and that data isn't used right away after clearing the TCU (running in a default mode)....then it could rear it's ugly head later.

is the growl coming from the compressor? i'd pull the belt and see if the pulley free wheels okay and if the compressor turns smoothly...or, well , like an a/c compressor, lumpy.

probably depends on a few things. there are two board members here that have heard the others FM transmitters while following each other. they posted about it on another thread.

a 5 speed FWD XT traveling I81 did it (at 40+ mpg i might add)...maybe the highways in WV, western MD are steeper than I81? i know the auto's would need to downshift. that's AWD and automatic...and of course a lot more Hp!

what? why is that? XT's with a 1.8/FWD can hold 5th gear at highway speeds just fine. set the cruise and leave it. that is bizarre, wonder what the difference is? why can the XT do it with fewer hp?

that's worth a shot...not sure why i tried EJ18, EJ22, EJ25 ECU's and EJ22 and EJ25 TCU's....but never thought about trying the EJ18 TCU. i know it's pushing the limits. how did those EA81/EA82 80hp cars with a 3AT ever get up a mountain. those things must be horrific to drive! i agree and i started this thinking i'd probably go for a manual trans. but it could be better than it is, so no reason not to look into it....i'm at least learning through the process. brilliant! i'll give that a whirl. still interested in hearing from someone who has driven one.

brute force has always been my modis operandi on those. i've never had them break...yet. go slow and take a break every now and again. if they're hard to turn they heat up very fast...which makes them expand. they'll be way too hot to touch by the time you get them out.

not sure with the in-line FM Modulators, but my guess is no since they aren't designed to be transmitters. i'm sure the company's could answer that question. i guess i could go see what mine does? with the wireless FM modulators it is possible to pick it up on another very close radio. depends on the transmitter and it would have to be very close...no more than a car length or two away. i suppose dedicated equipment would increase that range if you're really paranoid about it!

i'm wondering if anyone has ever driven an EJ18 auto trans. how did it drive up steep mountain grades on the highway? my EJ18 FWD auto conversion drives great but can't handle those highway mountain grades well at all....i think it should do better and am wondering if a TCU swap might help. it occasionally won't downshift up steep grades either, or takes awhile, so i'm thinking the TCU isn't a good match for it. the EJ25 TCU shifted worse than the current EJ22 FWD Legacy TCU i'm using. So i'm wondering if there's an even better fit like an impreza EJ18, FWD or something out there.

sure, you have the newer Phase II EJ25 SOHC (that's a good thing, this one won't leave you stranded).

actually this would be easier than what the OP is trying to ask. cook the egg and eat it, then spend the unlimited money on a "motor swap" - whatever motor you wanted.

fooey, just when i thought i had it figured out. while we're clearing up my head - were there ever EA82 brats? coupes and hatches have the same body?

how are the wheels driven, there don't appear to be axles to them?

so far they seem like better motors from what others are saying. no piston slap or head gasket issues to speak of. but not many are out there and they're not hitting the markets much yet. based on reviews and what is making it to online forums i would prefer these over an EJ25.

where do the differences lie i wonder? because an OBDI ECU doesn't have trouble running an OBDII engine...say if you swapped an EJ25 into a 1995 vehicle. you can swap OBDII engines, intake, including the engine wiring harness just fine. you would think the wiring would be close since the intakes are plug and play.