idosubaru

i'd use the transmission filter only unless the "justy" or other filter is the exact same part. if it "fits", i wouldn't consider that enough to use it. i'd follow the service procedure in your owners manual and if it doesn't have a replacement interval i'd lean towards 30k-60k and no more than a year or two.

i replied in your other thread:

yes, same motor. same deal - 95 auto's will have EGR, 95 manuals will not. either way it's the same as the 95 legacy's.

one option i know of is to swap to XT6 front hubs and use XT6 axles assuming it's a turbo transmission. okay for real - turbo or non-turbo D/R? for 25 spline i think the legacy axle's will work fine. for non-turbo 23 spline transmission i think you'll need 93 FWD Impreza axles.

if the engine is nice, clean, doesn't leak and has been taken care of and never overheated....i don't know that i'd bother replacing the head gaskets. i'd be less inclined to do it on an EA82...but on an EA82T it's certainly not a bad idea.

after changing the fluids and/or adding some concoctions to the gear oil that's also a good way to try and get it to free up...once all the proper checks, tires, and pressures have been done.

are you pulling the motor for some other reason? with air tools (or even without), pulling the motor is overkill even for headgaskets unless you have a bad back. if you're running stock turbo stuff, do them. if you're not running stock, still do them!! use Fel-Pro permatorque head gaskets and nothing else and add a few pounds to the final torque sequence. otherwise you're supposed to retorque them (annoying!) does the motor run fine now...why are you pulling it? i'd leave it unless there's some huge reason to pull it. the cam seals, cam orings, valve cover gaskets, grommets, and oil pump and crank seals all leak like crazy on EA82's, those are very easy to replace. quick couple hour job, i'd start there unless you really need to pull the motor.

search for threads related to manual trans torque bind. there's "search" function above and it's very helpful. click on search, advanced search and then click on new generation forum. and search for "torque bind" or "viscous coupler". also - look at the bottom left of the screen you're looking at right now...there's a "similar threads" listing down there with a bunch of torque bind threads, the first one is manual specific!!!!! the same can be said of the thread you started....scroll to the same bottom left screen and find a few more threads about torque bind. and i already replied to your thread indicating how you should proceed:

you need to check the things i already mentioned and do the gear oil change. you won't feel it when going straight, that's impossible. the more you drive it the more you're likely doing more, and irreversible, damage to it. that previous poster mentioned a VC - which is for a manual transmission only, so his was a manual trans as well. the automatics don't have those.

good point, if it really did fail i'd wonder if something caused it...some kind of water or debris in the engine bay or from underneath.

no emissions stuff here. i posted two solutions above. another is to install an EGR engine or EGR capable heads.

his was a grand cherokee - 97-ish model V8, automatic.

nah, this is a rather rare failure. replace one.

sweet!!! yeah and the dipstick pressure test! glad someone else called BS on that nonsense.

there's a good chance that doesn't matter here. i'll try to explain. i would remove the oil pump and check the oil pump to block gasket. the typical issue you see with TOD that won't go away and is as intermittent as yours is that the oil pump gasket (even newly installed ones) get sucked into the oil ports. these are the "ears" of the "mickey mouse" gasket. one port will be sucked in and noticeably deformed. there are even pictures already posted of this condition. this is very prevalent on XT6's and EA82's (having a nearly identical design). over on the XT forums there is a write up on how to create and install a metal cylindrical insert to prevent the gasket from getting sucked in like that. i'm not a fan of doing this and never have, but the point is that it's a recurring issue that is difficult to remedy. i bet the oil pumps are in spec' on all of them that do this, but something about the housing or block is causing just enough give to allow that port to get sucked in and introduce air bubbles into the oil supply...causing intermittent TOD. so the issue isn't with the "pumping mechanisms" that you probably checked....like the shaft and rotor or block bore. a new oil pump might be perfectly flat and help alleviate the problem...or maybe not. a few of done the insert method with good luck. i've never had the recurring issue with mine so i haven't had to go that far...but i've also had a new oil pump on my last two XT6's. i've replaced bad HLA's before and in every case that i have they were noisy all of the time and it was obvious the one (or two) that were causing the issues. i find the oil pump related issues similar to be more varied and random. but i will say the engines with HLA issues have usually been more abused...head gasket issues, already torn apart previously...etc, which may be the case here as well. can you tell if it's coming from one particular HLA or does it move from side to side/front to back?

awesome, i was hoping that was just a typo. it will work beautifully in yours. i installed a 1995 EJ22 trans in my EJ25 and it works fine. again....the only concern is the final drive ratio matching your existing rear diff. you have two options - counting it to see if it matches or getting the EJ22 rear diff and swapping that as well. my guess is that there's a good chance they're a different ratio though....but you'll just have to check. sorry - ignore my comments about bellhousing bolts - i thought you had a 1998 OBW, but i see now that it's a 1996 so you're no where near the 1999 year of interest.

if the coolant just came out of the radiator cap for sure, then they probably misdiagnosed it. to their defense...it wouldn't be that hard. the EJ25's blow headgasket quite often and when they do the overflow tank gets pressurized and bubbling and sprays water all over the battery area as well. so..it would have looked very much like every other EJ25 head gasket issue. i'd ignore their "hydrocarbon test" for now....maybe it was inaccurate or they're just assuming... "suspicion often creates what it suspects" C.S. Lewis of course there's a chance the headgasket did go...let's hope not.

the few bearings i've had experience with were nearly devoid of "good grease", so i can't imagine that a proper regreasing wouldn't help (not overdoing it of course). i've stuffed grease in CV's and they quiet substantially, i've regreased bearing and other assemblies before and they will run MUCH smoother and quieter as well. after 20 years the grease is all coagulated and not very "greasy" any more. i'm not familiar enough with greasing wheel bearings, but i wouldn't be surprised if it helped. i don't know if adding a little in through the axle seal can get distributed enough or not through the actual bearing surfaces. i'd be willing to try it if i needed to though. having a spare set of hubs to do the bearings on and then just installing the hubs is the only way i've done it, it's easy going and less pressure to get everything done at once.

i wouldn't worry about it. is something wrong with the engine? my guess is no (see my last post). that is pinging, not TOD.

details: is this an EA82 or EA81 engine? i've swapped HLA's (having them get mixed up, fall out, or replaced with other used ones), put them back in the wrong positions before and never had any problems with HLA noise. if a reseal doesn't fix it and you're sure you properly sealed the cam cases and such then i'd vote for a new oil pump.

between auto's and 5 speeds? yes and no. the binding and symptoms are the same...the causes might be the same, but the fixes and inner workings of the transmission are completely different from auto's to manuals. they are not even remotely similar. what you need to know is that the center differential is starting to fail. it is only going to get worse unless you do something about it now. do it while it's under warranty, this is not an "asy" (well - define easy?) fix as it's inside the transmission. the first step is to make sure all your tires are the same size, tread, and pressure. differences like this stress the differential because it causes the tires to rotate at different speeds. the second step is to change your fluid and drive it for awhile and hope it frees up....this works sometimes. probably depends how bad it is and how long it's been "let go". you can also try a "concoction", various additives or different fluids may help free the unit up from binding. you can search for more information and ideas about that. the final fix is to replace the unit or the transmission. that'll be a few hundred dollars depending on parts used and if you're doing the work yourself or not.

they aren't going to add any performance, but they will retain stock performance over the life of the wires with no worries about when to replace them. yes i've seen them solve ignition issues, but not on subaru's. i've never had a subaru with ignition related problems like that. a friend had his jeep since new for 250,000+ miles (who now drives an impreza as of last year!). he couldn't get a set of wires to last more than about 30,000 for some reason. he went with magnecor and never replaced them again. DO NOT buy them from magnecors website. find a distributor online and the prices will be far cheaper. even a set for my Subaru XT6 (6 cylinders) was only around $60. can't recall what my EJ set was for the impreza but it wasn't much. with 133,000 on your vehicle, there might not be any reason to bother with non-OEM wires though. although if you plan on having it for 250,000 miles then maybe it's "worth" it in the financial sense.

what a bunch of #*!&*!$$. what an idiot. i can't STAND when people just flat out lie about something they have no clue about. it's one thing to guess based on good experience but to just make MANURE up to confuse you is crap. nothing that guy said is even remotely valid. different year my rump roast....and failsafe mode?? wow that's right up there with martians dude. wish i would have been there when he said that, stupid idiot. keep him for your 350 or lawn mower engine needs, but tune him out for his subaru advice. end rant...sorry...// that 96 transmission will work beautifully in your car. my only concern is you said it's an EJ20 vehicle??? we didn't get EJ20 vehicles in the US, can you clarify that? any normal US EJ 1996 transmission is going to work fine in your car. turn the shaft of the rear diff and count rotations, it's very simple. turn wheel, count the rotations of the driveshaft....you can mark the driveshaft and tire with a marker or chalk. a 41 to 10 ratio is 4.11 and a 44 to 10 ratio is a 4.44, done. do it on your car first, should be able to do it with the wheels/axles all still attached. use the wheel to rotate the diff. do me one favor - count your bell housing bolts and make sure you have 4 and don't have an external filter. subaru went with some transmission changes in 1999 that included an external filter and 8 bellhousing bolts...want to make sure you don't have one of those newer trans, there may be some in 1998 as well? if you bellhousing bolts are the same as the trans you're looking at then the transmissions are IDENTICAL (i dont' care what some bozo rebuilder filled you with). the only difference will be the final drive ratio and that's very easy to determine or work around if you'd like.

i know it's possible on an XT6 and that diff is unruly when it lets loose hanging by the axles. it's amazing how much heavier it seems when you're awkwardly working from underneath.....hang tight and good luck with the digits.

i wouldn't count on it. that was the original thought. but the newer the car, the less accurate the information in a way. you don't *see* as much...because people are more likely to repair them, have them under warranty, etc. that being said, i've seen some talk of headgasket issues on 2003+ engines as well on here and other subaru boards (i think nasioc was one).