idosubaru

it's been done, try searching on here and the internet, i know i've seen threads of people that have done. i think one even had pictures? i have a transmission and will sell you the oil pump for $100 if you want it. i'd sell it for $25 but i don't look forward to the time to pull it. dave -just make sure that bolting the engine doesn't "push" the torque converter in the rest of the way. actually the torque converter will go in "too far" into the transmission so to speak...and then the flexplate/torque converter bolts will pull it out of the transmission. the engine will seat fully against the transmission bellhousing without touching the torque converter at all. that's when you know it's right.

they are the only engine rebuilders i'd buy a new subaru engine from. that being said, there's a lot of eyebrow raising details and comments in that guys emails that sounds suspicious. power steering and A/C? does he go to them for dentist appointments too? i'd buy an engine from them and source the rest elsewhere. that's nice of them to even bother trying to help the guy...people like him make companies not do things like that in the future. missing bolt for the oil pump - if it did happen (i bet it didn't) i'm sure it's not SOP for them to skip one, so that's not an issue. the manual/automatic engine diatribe sounds bogus. the manual and automatic intakes are interchangeable...with exception to EGR differences in 1995 model year only..and even then they are actually interchangeable if you're not a goober (i just did it). manual intake on an auto engine with an auto harness? is this a comic strip or is this guy for real? sounds more like someone not up to an engine swap trying to blame someone else.

that's news to me, i always thought they were the same.

nice hit!! any chance you remember their name or anything like that or could post a link? that would be awesome!

thanks Gloyale. so this is an older transmission, not a 2001 like you mentioned. either the VIN is wrong or it's a typo, but seems like it's a 90-94 transmission. good news - will be easy to swap with any 1998 or earlier EJ22 in the future! the 2001 would have been a little more complicated.

hey, i put it nicely! it is my fault too, that's why i know something on the subject. exactly...fits what i said perfectly. it's about marketing, not true performance.

there are a lot of places to loose coolant. radiator, heater core, and water pump bypass hose for one. then there are little hoses everywhere - throttle body, under the intake, a small one by the thermostat sometimes, a tiny one under the alternator...etc. all those need to be checked if it's leaking. sometimes looking after filling the coolant and while holding the engine at higher rpm's (more coolant flow) will help pinpoint a leak. since you posted this in old gen i guess it's an EA82 (you didn't say in your PM to me). it could also be intake manifold and of course head gasket related. how fast is it loosing coolant? the really slow intake and head gasket leaks are hard to pinpoint, because they don't really leak enough to show out the exhaust or anywhere really.

another way to put what nipper said as an overview - it's market driven. you have probably even played a part in dictating the market based on prior purchases of goods. if not, then you are a minority but are subject to mass market based product offerings.

i'm not sure when they switched from mechanical to electric speedometer sensors but i thought all EJ's were electrical sensors. but then again i've never worked on a 90-94 EJ, so maybe those are? either way, it sounds like your numbers aren't matching up. don't think it could be a 2001 without being an electrical sensor...unless it was previously swapped from mechanical to electrical?

yes the 4S3....VIN sounds like an EJ transmission. in my opinion (and i'll admit it's opinion), the newer EJ 5 speed transmissions are a down grade compared to older generation transmissions for off road and nasty stuff driving. they don't have a locking center differential, that's their downfall. it's not really any good to you without an adapter plate for your EA82 engine. they won't bolt up, amongst a few other issues....electronic speed sensor, rear trans mount won't line up...minor stuff but differences to contend with. it's far from a "drop in" replacement. and...the newer EJ's 1999 and up i believe - have 8 bell housing bolts instead of the pre-1998 ones that have 4...so for your EJ swap you'll have to figure that out depending on what year engine you get. EA transmissions are cheap anyway, just get another if yours is bad. i have one i'll sell you!

get a spark plug chaser, not worth ruining your threads in the heads. grease the threads of the chaser to make sure any shavings stick to the chaser.

Were there ever any 2" receiver hitches available for a legacy? My bike rack is 2" and using the adapter is really annoying...makes it stick out too far.

Keith, yes I sort of swapped an EJ22..it's an EJ18 with EJ22 electronics on it. It's an automatic (FWD, I swapped that in too). What was your swap...what year is the vehicle? A 96 ECU might be better....read on. A 1995 ECU would not work in my car for some reason (and it was a late model 95 ECU). Wouldn't start. The EJ25 ECU runs fine and the 1996 EJ22 ECU works fine. I had slight hesitations with the EJ25 ECU. When I swapped to the 1996 ECU it seems to be smooth now, no little quirks like it had. And yes, gas mileage is lame. But I got a nice cruising, bulletproof EJ with leather seats, lots of big brake and wheel upgrades, and a sunroof!

I'm trying to pick an ECU for my EJ22 swapped Legacy sedan...and there's a ton of choices for a 1996 EJ22 Legacy: 22611AC271 22611AC431 22611AC910 22611AC930 Is there anyway to find out, does anyone have a parts catalog, or does that not even show the differences?

while you have the rear suspension apart and since you mentioned swapping struts too, you could install 2002 WRX rear springs. there's a thread on here about it titled "sagging rump roast end" or something like that for OBS's like yours. they typically have weak springs and the 2002 WRX (i think that's it) rear springs are a great fix for that. i have a set myself, my imp OBS does the rear sag as well, about an inch or two lower. just noticeable.

one day USMB will hopefully ban oil threads too! manufacturers take the choice selections for themselves. the rest, which may be identical in quality or lower, goes to be rebranded. the "rebranded" brands aren't necessarily the same quality. could be, probably is, and usually is, but it doesn't have to be. what is being discussed here is the "chance" and "significance" of that "possibility of lower quality". if that sounds ambiguous, it is. there's no way to quantify that without some oil company insiders. i don't think that's going to happen so just take your pick and don't worry about everyone else thinking/believing the same. or do some research and oil analysis which has only been done on a very limited scale. i've read some reports and studies indicating some oils have higher ash counts and all that blah blah blah...you can search for that kind of boring research if this interests you.

replace the piston.

yours doesn't have ABS? and the one you're buying from isn't ABS...what's the question? the entire rear assemblies will definitely swap, if that's all you're asking.

there's still a lot of unknowns for me...but a for sure way to get a 1999 EJ25 vehicle (body side wiring) and a 1999 EJ25 ECU to work is to feed it the information it needs - which will come from a 1999 EJ25 intake manifold and 1999 EJ25 Cams. make sure it's all Phase II (SOHC) stuff. BUT...the only thing i can't promise is that the EJ25 intake manifold will bolt to the the EJ22 engine. i *think* it will...i know that some later model EJ22 and EJ25 intake manifolds do interchange...but most (earlier) do not. so i'm not sure of the exact years that do....but i think yours will being Phase II...unless there are Phase II differences. BUT...even if that doesn't work, what will work is to swap the EJ25 intake wiring harness onto the EJ22 intake manifold that's already in the car. and then you can swap any necessary sensors as well...like the TPS or any that might be different. or they could all be the same, you should have done your homework like i suggested earlier and should know more than me by now about that. and you'll probably need to swap the EJ25 cams onto the EJ22...again, something that's required on a very few late model swaps, but not earlier ones. this is very important to know because most people don't know it. OR....you can study the wiring diagrams. if things are close enough it might run better on an EJ22 ECU without touching any engine/intake stuff.....but i think that's more of a head scratcher. if it were mine i'd look into the ECU - just because of how easy that is to access and swap. usually you can get an ECU for $25-$40, that's so cheap i'd just try it just to do it....and i can say that because i just did it. i bought two ECU's for a car just to try...and i'm getting another tomorrow, just to see what it does. for $40 and no time, why not? but i don't like to tell people to spend money if it might not work either...so you choose.

i can measure mine for you. it's on the car, but i can take any external measurements of it that you want/need. just let me know, i need to swap my snow tires off of it anyway and will be doing so soon, easy access to measurements for you. just get me exact details of what you want measured.

ABS and non-ABS rear "hub assemblies", spindles, knuckles, whatever you want to call them - they are different but interchangeable. i would guess they are only different in that the non-ABS units don't have a tone ring or boss for the ABS sensor. i've seen earlier imps with rear discs and ABS i think, so check that parts car. sounds like you don't care to keep it ABS anyway, if that's the case then just swap away and disconnect your ABS system entirely. hey -AE - this is really funny. i just picked up a forester rear assembly last week. i figured it would...but i'll ask to be sure, it sounds like it'll swap right into my Impreza OBS? i'm going to use it for a rear disc swap? if you just swapped in forester rear bits...shouldn't it have rear discs already? i'm confused, foresters all have rear discs don't they?

hey nip, what about the oil and coolant don't typically mix in this motor? i have never seen one with mixed coolant/oil personally. highly unlikely that it did on this guys. i know this is a good standard practice, but unless i'm forgetting something i would not replace the radiator in one of these engines (and i never have). make sure yours has the metal rear separator plate while the engine is out. the earlier plastic plates can crack. the upgraded metal plate is a good idea while the engine is out, it's next to the rear main seal. if the oil pan has any signs of leakage, now is the time to replace it. while it looks semi-reasonable to replace by looking under the car, it is not. you can't see the baffles and sump inside the pan...on many subaru's you have to jack the engine/trans up (meaning remove lots of stuff too) in order to get the oil pump off the engine. if it's not leaking, then leave it.

overfilling is bad. do some general A/C reading on the internet for basics on this stuff, it's very helpful. sounds like you have a really good start since you have access to a gauge and stuff so you should be able to swing this. if the system is dead out of pressure you might want to consider replacing both schrader valves. $2 fixes and they are prone to leak. there's a special tool that allows you to replace them without loosing any refrigerant...nifty little device...but if the system is low, just swap them out right quick and no harm done.

are you saying one brand was $6.11? is that synthetic? you shouldn't be comparing synthetic prices to dino oil prices. what kind of oil are you trying to run? this might be two questions...."should i use synthetics"...is the first question. then the second might be brand. i go with name brand stuff, but if $ was tight i would not. i can't imagine that using one over the other will really mean a difference in whether your vehicle makes another 100,000 miles.

awesome good job! sounds like yo'ure getting somewhere!?!? two options: the easiest would be to find an intake manifold that matches your existing wiring and ECU - sounds like this would be a 99 SOHC Phase II EJ25? if that's the case i think the EJ25 and EJ22 intake manifolds are interchangeable...they are in some later years. (they are NOT interchangeable prior to 1999 so the info gets really mucky). anyway, if the intakes are interchangeable i'd want to bolt an original intake onto the engine. your next option...which may be a good one since the car is running okay, is to double check the part number for every sensor. you want to match your wiring and ECU...which sounds like it's a 1999 EJ25. you want sensors for that engine on your existing EJ22 since that's what the computer is looking for. and you may need to swap cams...to 1999 EJ25 Phase II cams....but if it is running you might not need to (may not be necessary or have already been done). if the cams need swapped i don't think the car will run...which it sounds like yours is. good luck, sorry i can'jt be more clear and specific but the 99+ stuff is confusing.