idosubaru

awesome - good job! "air flow pipes" - is that the vacuum lines or something else? i would guess this did the trick. hopefully it doesn't come back once the TCU and ECU *relearn* and populate all the tables/fields in the controller.

so the only 85+ vehicles that were EA81 are hatches? that's simpler than i thought it was.

that percentage is not accurate from a statistical view point. i think it came from a german no-name website, it's as good as me making up a number based on my experience, which isn't accurate either. how do you know without a doubt that yours was never replaced anyway? can't say whether or not it really matters, but i've never found the knock sensors hard to replace. i understand they could be easier, but never had much of a problem replacing them in 15 minutes myself so not worth it.

great read, thanks.

Why does a 1995 EJ22 engine swap into an EJ25 vehicle and is plug and play, but the 1995 ECU will not plug and play into an EJ25 vehicle?

cool! i knew that later 87+ GL wagons were EA82, wasn't sure if they all were (early years).

you didn't mention which engine/vehicle you have, that makes a difference in your questions. If this is a 100k timing belt interval vehicle and it hasn't been done yet, i'd wait 10k miles and do everything at once with the timing belt change. With the exception of the engine oil and air filter, i'd do those now or whenever they are due. If you do the water pump with the belt change (recommended), then you're going to be loosing some of your new coolant anyway. depends what engine you have. i'm guessing you have an EJ25? and then it depends which EJ25 you have. if it's a DOHC then no, this doesn't apply to you. if it's a SOHC then yes you want it and you're dead on about getting it from Subaru. yep, sure can. Replace these with the plugs. You will have to replace them at some point, might as well do it with the plugs and save yourself the headache, time, future check engine lights, and risk of damaging the old ones when replacing the plugs (that's really annoying). EJ engines are very sensitive to plug wires, not all subaru engines are like this. EJ=subaru wires only. The only suitable alternative is Magnecor, I use them exclusively. More info on the boards here if you want to search for that. It's statistics, with after markets you have a chance of getting a good set and a chance of not. If you don't mind taking that chance then do it. If you want a near 100% success rate then go with Subaru or magnecor. that's why you see some people saying "so-and-so brand worked for me". those that are doing lots of subaru stuff and seeing cars with 200,000+ miles aren't messing with EJ's though, in the end it's not worth the time with aftermarkets. And their just cheap plug wires, so why not go with Subaru on the advice of people that are doing this stuff all the time? I hate to say this, it will ruffle some feathers but i'd be lying if i didn't. Brake fluid isn't critical (assuming the system is working properly and never been tampered with/damaged...etc), many people never change it on newer cars. It is a good idea to change it. But if I was paying someone to do it i either wouldn't have it done or I'd have it done at the next brake job, not as an independent service. You never mentioned how old the vehicle is though either or if your brakes are performing flawlessly or not?

is there an "engine swap" basics thread? i'm wondering what, besides the engine harness and ECU inputs is necessary to splice in? ignition, power, etc.

might need to know if your GL is a hatch or wagon. axle compatability goes with the engine: EA81 = EA81 EA82=EA82 EA82T=EA82T his loyale will be an EA82. i'm not sure what your GL will be. GL hatches are EA81 and some year GL wagons are EA82.

like i said off-line, i don't think there's anyway to know for sure without looking. most likely i'd guess you need a new shaft and seal like JCE just mentioned. but there's also a possibility with enough vibration, play and movement that the actual rear tail housing was damaged. without seeing what exactly happend it's hard to say.

subaru didn't vary them much, i would definitely give it a whirl. i use EJ steering rack bushings on the XT6, perfect fit. so long as it bolts up (i bet it does) the tie rod ends are always the same threads, so match the tie rod ends to the vehicle. but i've never done it so i can't say for sure either.

pulled the engine for an oil leak? is that it? just replace the oil pump seal/oring/gasket, crank seal, cam seals and cam oring (that reside just behind the cam cap that holds the cam seals). all very easy to do in the car, it's all right behind the timing belt. do it all at once and be done with it. install a new belt, oil soaked belts don't last long. a installed a brand new one that got oil on it last summer and it only last a couple months. while it's out replace the valve covers (easy)...and possibly more if you'd like...seal the cams, cam tower orings, head gaskets....wherever you want to draw the line.

in 1995 the auto's had EGR the manuals did NOT have EGR. the ECU's were coded to not look for the EGR inputs in manual transmission vehicles in 1995. in his case, having a 1995 vehicle all he had to do was make the ECU think it was a manual trans vehicle and it's no longer "expecting" EGR input. he did that by grounding one pin. my idea was to use a 1995 ECU in a 1997 vehicle and make it think it's a manual, to accomplish the same thing, get rid of the EGR. but i tried and the 95 ECU doesn't work in 96+ vehicles for some reason. must be a wiring difference. for 96+ vehicles the ECU's changed so what works for him doesn't necessarily work for others. that's why i was asking how he found out which pin....to see if that works on 96+ vehicles. since nearly all 96+ soobs have EGR and there was an ECU change after 1995 i don't have a good feeling about it.

hhmm, what's a "Michaels CD"? Never heard of that.

FWD layout is the same as AWD so use your preferred method for clutch fun. pulling the engine is the typical way to do it. if there was a good way to get the transmission back in, pulling the trans out from underneath would be awesome. the trans comes out much quicker than the engine. but...there's no good way to do that. although hocrest had the ingenious suggestion of using a chain passed behind the engine with the engine lift to aid in dropping or pulling up the transmission. but still, working from under the car is a pain.

awesome! since i was looking a couple months ago and couldn't find it...how did you figure out pin 50? i couldn't find anything in the FSM about that.

sounds to me like he didn't plug something back up right when reinstalling the engine. +1 for don't touch the ECU.

is this for the EGR code? this would probably only work for the 1995 ECU's then? probably wouldn't work for later models would it? good job! swapping to a later year ECU would not have worked. my 96 Legacy would not run on a 95 ECU, but 96 and 97 were fine.

it's a ways from York, but the Hanover, PA Subaru dealer was always very nice to me. granted i do all my own work so i never had any work done there but the parts guys were super nice.

hey tony. the subaruxt forum is a good one for any xt6 related issues. some details would help us help you. is the check engine light on, did you read the codes, what's the car doing, how long has it been doing this, does it start, does it run, does it do it all the time, or just sometimes.

if cost and time aren't an issue and you plan on keeping the car awhile, then tear it up. if you're still debating then i'd go with age and useage of the car. if the car was being driven prior to you having and the boots look decent like you said they will probably last. if the car was sitting for awhile and not being driven...replace them. they probably won't last long.

just the front. i just replaced mine at 120,000 as preventative maintenance and all said replacing the rear was pointless unless i got a CEL. so i didn't replace it on their recommendations.

this is the approach you want: for giggles the TCU should be located above your feet, behind the dash/steering wheel sort of. it's bolted in a hanging style, bolts up at the top and the TCU hangs down. ECU is located under the passengers side carpet, up towards the front of the car. pull the carpet back, starting up front, then remove the metal plate underneath. that's the ECU. i'm doubtful those will solve your problem though.

there's no one on this board that would disagree with that. less accurate, are comments like "any car over 140k has the same chance of loosing a head gasket". hey...i took the bait!! good thing i'm not a fish!

he's right, but proving it and getting them to do something about it is going to be tough.