idosubaru

that was kind of the goal with this car...see how well it can do on the highway. a friend needs an exhaust (midpipe/converter) for his legacy so i could donate mine while he gets a free exhaust if there was a good option for mine. i tried poking around at NASIOC but didn't find much. found enough gas mileage threads but nothing substantial. for the XT6 replacing the stock muffler is about the best you can do for highway gas mileage. high flow converters, headers (though that is only with a stock exhaust), straight pipes, removing the converters, etc make no noticeable difference in mileage. i was hoping someone might have similar experience with EJ stuff. thanks for the notes.

yes - all EJ25's have EGR, so that's normal. yeah your 97 EJ22 will have single port exhaust while the EJ25 will have dual. just swap the ypipe with it, no big deal.

do some reading here and make sure it's done right - have the heads machined no matter what and use Subaru head gaskets only. no matter who you have do it, make sure those two items are not neglected. with a dealer the only assurance you have is that Subaru head gaskets are used, but not necessarily that the heads are machined - they have been known to gasket-slap them.

it's a rusted up piece of metal that can't be removed.....oh wait you're over there, you should be able to get it off. it's the big cover/plate on the back side of the hub. hmmm...i just checked my FSM and you're right it doesn't have it on the exploded view of the brake calipers. not sure why that wouldn't be listed under the brake parts??

on an interference engine (any EJ25) i would install the pulleys but probably not the belts. particularly the 105,000 mile timing belt change engines (EJ25). personally i'd stick with Subaru for any interference engine. i would rather have these new bearings than 10+ year old original bearings. on EJ's you also have the option of regreasing the pulleys. i've done this on EJ (non interference) and EA and ER engines: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50430&highlight=timing+pulley if you do the EJ22 swap and use a non-interference EJ22 (1996 or earlier), then i wouldn't be as skeptical to try them (and i have).

those are not typical EJ25 head gasket symptoms. you need to check for coolant loss, thermostat sticking and the water pump. you might have a very simple problem. call the local subaru dealer and see if they use a particular machine shop in town, that might be a good place to start. i like finding someone with subaru experience.

being the front diff i'd just plan on replacing the entire transmission. other EJ transmissions will work if you swap the rear diff to match. that's the easier and not very expensive option.

they are still interchangeable. might have to swap the top mount. i've done it before and i think i swapped the top mount but i can't remember if that was for fitment or some other reason, but i swapped them left to right for sure.

there's way too many possibilities and variables to conclusively say anything. as much as i dislike fram and avoid them i would say chances are slim it was "caused" by fram filters. we are talking about a 15 year old motor.

i've bought quite a few ebay kits - they've always been great. i've bought EA and EJ stuff and never had a problem with them. my thinking is that all new components is better than a new timing belt and maybe one new pulley and leaving the rest old (due to costs). there's always the option of trying to install new bearings (annoying unless you have good connections to finding the right bearings and a machine shop that will do it reasonably) or regrease your existing pulleys, but they're a bit of a pain on the EA82's, the grease seals are hidden on some of them.

there's another thread recent thread (1 month or so) about this, i used it to purchase mine. i think mine was $30...$40 tops and it shows the code and what the code needs. it's awesome...portable, simple, and no need to look anything up. well worth such a small amount of change. i was going to go the laptop route too, but i'm glad i didn't. i've already used it a couple times and it's much simpler to carry that little thing out there than the lap top. i still may get a lap top version though just for kicks.

sounds like the tires being mismatched probably ruined the transmission. if it's not too late there may be hope - read and follow through immediately. well that sounds oddly like what i mentioned, doesn't it? unfortunately she needs a set of matching tires. and of course she'd hate to spend that kind of money without knowing whether it will fix it or not for sure. so first thing to do - put it in FWD mode. inside the engine bay is a fuse holder that should have a lid that says "FWD" on it (it should be by the passengers side strut tower, in the back corner of the engine bay). tell her to put a fuse in this holder, it's essentially a switch that will force the trans into FWD mode. her owners manual should have instructions and location of that, but it's REALLY - simple, literally pop the lid and stick a fuse in it. we need to know what happens next - does the FWD light come on in the dash? and does it help the shifting characteristics at all? this might alleviate some issues. if it doesn't we'll move on from there, that at least tells us some things.

I dropped an EJ18 into my Legacy LSi. Does anyone have a clue as to what exhaust mod's might beef up the gas mileage for highway type driving? Should I be looking at the headers all the way back or just the muffler? I don't mind a little louder but my goal has nothing to do with sound either. I'll probably go with a Dynomax muffler since that sounded and performed well on the XT6.

be careful with the SVX, they can be very expensive to maintain. they are great cars and very reliable but spending an entire tax return on one and having no disposable cash might not be the best idea on this. parts can be hard to find, i was looking for an idle controller or TPS for a friend a year ago and couldn't come up with one for a decent price. windshields = $700. wheel bearings and automatic transmission failures are very common with these and are rather expensive fixes. if you get one - install an aftermarket dedicated transmission cooler immediately. they're only $30-$40. good luck with it - they are certainly very cool cars and drive very, very nice!

This can actually be done very inexpensively and you could follow some logical steps to make sure it's taken care of properly. First make sure it is the transmission. Other things can make it do strange things. Check for codes - does the POWER or AT light blink 16 times right after the car is started? If it does then that means the TCU has a code stored in it that may help figure out what exactly is wrong. Pull this code and let us know what it is if this is the case. Has the fluid ever been changed. If not it should be changed a few times or flushed. Are all the tires matching in size and wear? If it's an AWD transmission, i've seen them start shifting strangely if the tires are not evenly warn. The ones i've seen would shift strange at very low speeds actually so i don't think this will be his issue, but why not check it as it takes 15 seconds. If it does come to needing a new transmission, a rebuild is not the solution. The 4EAT transmission in this vehicle is very reliable and there's no shortage of good used units out there for cheap. I bought one for $150 with 100,000 miles on it last fall. You'd have to pay someone to install probably so you may be able to get it done for $500 or more depending on your local transmission sources and mechanic prices. Rebuilds are very costly and depend on what all they actually fix. In this case I would think it would be a rather extensive rebuild since it's not something simple like a delay from going into drive from park. That can run about $1,000 and it's fairly "simple" for a trans rebuild. I'd expect this to run significantly more.

What models are interchangeable here? does that mean 2000 - 2002 legacy axles will fit in 95-99 legacy's? i'm in the market for some 95 and 96 legacy axles and would like to get the newest used subaru ones i can find. will these newer ones fit 95/96 model legacy's? and since i and some friends have impreza's (mid to late 90's), will they work on those as well?

Lots of overflow tanks look like rather nasty stuff, so like everyone is saying don't get too worked up just yet. If anything, pull it out and fill it with cleaner and pebbles and shake the snot out of it to clean it out. refill with fresh coolant and keep an eye on things. You have the option of replacing the head gaskets. If it is the head gasket i'd go for a 2.2 swap or a CCR EJ25 - then you have 3 years/36,000 miles of warranty with it. 2.2's are easy to find and cheap down here, not sure what your market is like. You can pick up an EJ22 for less than what you can sell the blown head gasket EJ25 for. just to be sure - this is a DOHC Phase I right? just making sure it's not some cross over mix up job of the SOHC phase II joker.

common problem - the knock sensors body cracks. best to get a new one.very easy to replace - ONE BOLT. it's tight to get too, but nothing an average socket wrench can't do in 10 minutes. i just did my wife's the other day. clean around where it sets on the block and install it to the right torque spec's. there are multiple threads on here about it including pictures, do a search and read through those threads. i saw knock sensors for about $35 on partsquick.com i think it was. don't know how reputable that place is, but that's some cheap knock sensors. not sure what they run elsewhere, the one i bought from Subaru was $70-$100 - i can't remember. advanced and other stores probably have them cheaper.

oh yeah - i've done something similar, run jumper cables from battery to starter and battery negative to ground (due to a bad ground wire that worked).

car, mileage, auto/manual? there's a few possibilities. jumper cables can vary a lot. i have one set that won't jump anything, just too weak. i have another set that's huge, heavy duty, heavy gauge and it works every time if i can get a good connection. so are you sure you had a good set of cables? the starter would be suspect - try the old "whack the starter a few times" trick and see if it cranks over then. a multimeter would be nice, make sure you're getting voltage to the starter and make sure the ignition is switching properly. if it's an automatic - it's not in a drive gear is it?

yes, just drive in a tight circle in a dry parking lot. any binding, braking, chirping, or wheel hopping is bad. you'll feel it, it will feel like it's braking, not smoothly drifting through the turn. keep your steering wheel at full lock and go slow. and get back to bed!!!!

slap that baby in there - all 90-94's should interchange just fine and with yours being the exact same car, sounds like a no-brainer to me. unfortunately databases like you're looking for are non-existent. transmission interchange questions come up all the time and there's rarely a definitive answer, often people just say "get the exact same transmission" to be sure, that's the only sure way.

yes you do, the MT can have it as well.

The automatics are very reliable but manuals are more so. A manual has the better chance of making 250,000 miles without needing replacement. But the manual will also probably need at least one if not two clutches in that time which is $1,500 in maintenance costs. You can replace an automatic for that or less. So take your pick, the life costs aren't significantly different.

i think the 98 2.2 is 60,000 mile interval anyway, but either way it's needed. if it's a dealer they would do a complete tune up - timing belt, water pump, and all that jazz for you if you bargained with them a bit. that is super expensive, but if you're looking for something with that kind of mileage and a late model EJ22 manual then your market is going to be very small. sadly - i promise they don't have very much in the car!