idosubaru

if you talked to anthony's then you should be golden. talk to Garry, he's the man up there with the XT6 brushes, knows all about them and takes good care of us!

i believe the stops are fixed and have a 10mm bolt attaching them, and they are adjustable. they may not be your problem, just a suggestion to look at. they should keep the window from going "too far" like you said they are doing. did you compare it to the other side? that is key and really helps when looking at these window mechanisms. unless you've seen one before and have a good idea how they work, they can be really confusing and not make any sense.

reuse the headbolts, noone uses new headbolts - dealers definitely do not. definitely thoroughly inspect all the timing pulleys. most likely at least one will need to be addressed - replace, regrease, or new bearings. regreasing is the cheapest method and requires a special needle insert, new bearings is another option but is typically time consuming sourcing the bearings and can end up being expensive anyway after you pay for the bearings and someone to press the old out and new in. new ones are rather expensive from subaru, i'd keep my eyes out for aftermarket kits on ebay that include all brand new bearings.

i'd do a search here, i've read through some informative knock sensor threads. cleaning the contacts, checking the wire visually and making sure the sensor housing isn't cracked and making sure it's bolted to the proper torque is a great start for simplicity. and of course make sure the new sensor is good, not cracked or damaged somehow. i recall someone not too long ago actually relocating the knock sensor somewhere else on the engine. a "trick" is to wrap the knock sensor threads with a few wraps, 10-15, of pipe thread tape and then install it. i haven't heard of anyone doing this on the newer gen stuff though, i've done it on older models.

hmmm i'm familiar with these but my memory is vague too. the easiest way to fix this is to take both door panels off and alternately inspect each stopper. do it multiple times, all the way up, while moving, etc. you will notice one isn't like the other. make the broken one like the good one. the way i've seen it (on a 97 legacy), is you just unbolt one stopper and rotate/move it so it catches properly. it was the one closer to the front of the car so to speak, not by the latch. i can't remember why, but it would not go back in place without unbolting it. or of course yours could actually be broken...there are a couple possibilities.

$20-$30 tops for the brushes. look elsewhere, better yet, just order them online. cheaper, delivered to your door, no running around, why bother going to the dealer?

tedder, did this engine have problems before you removed and installed the belt? i'm with john, probably misaligned. read that endwrench article very carefully and make sure you're lining everything up perfectly. i always line up via the flywheel/flexplate. there's an access hole under the throttle body/intake. remove the rubber plug (if it's there) and use that.

if the fan isn't being used and never comes on then it certainly won't hurt to remove it and place the other in it's place. nothing beneficial about having a fan that doesn't work or do anything. some older subaru's, non a/c, only have one fan.

yeah i was completely baffled when he pulled into my driveway last year with his hatch. i forget exactly what year it is...but it might be an 88 or 89 if they made hatches that long. i was all confident about the fact i had taken apart a billion EA82's and ER27's...then popped the hood, ready to tell him all about it and saw that freak of nature EA81, i coudln't believe it! i never see EA81's around here, had no idea they made them that long, it was the first one i had ever touched, i'm going to end this runon sentence. so yeah, EA81's and XT6's coexisted too.

thanks a bunch. i was able to give him a bunch of places that had a hub he couldn't find. one locally was wrong, another he had shipped was wrong...so thanks for helping make his life a bit easier tomorrow 4x4welder!!

trying to help a buddy of mine out. he needs a front drivers side hub for a 1987 GL Hatchback. I think it's a GL...it's a hatchback, one of those little white jokers, two door, EA81 motor. when i go to look up hubs for this it shows stuff from 1981 as well...is that showing right, and am i punching in the right information? are all EA81 hubs interchangeable?

maybe he means the harness on the intake manifold he was trying to use didn't have a connector for the knock sensor, though later model Turbo XT's have knock sensors.

often they're low on refrigerant so i would start there. test the pressure in the system and see what you get. once the pressure is in range, the a/c compressor should kick on, if not then you need to start looking elsewhere. a quick test with the engine and everything off is to very slightly depress the schrader valve in the high or low pressure port just to see if there's any charge in the system. doesn't take any time, tools or anything really. if it doesn't do anything then you know that's your problem, it's low and likely leaks. if something comes out then it has charge in it...but you can't tell without a pressure gauge whether it's in range or not, although with enough experience you can sort of guess. other than that, slap some gauges on it and tell us what you get. there are great automotive a/c pages and information on the internet, that's a good place to start when learning/diagnosing a/c stuff yourself. do not play games with the a/c it can be dangerous.

master cylinder or brake booster. i'd search here or on the internet for ways to test, i forget the details of each. the symptom you describe, pedal pumping up, should tell you what's wrong i just don't remember which is which. that it got worse after replacing the pads sounds like master cylinder to me. i've never had to replace either one on a subaru. master cylinders are easy to replace at least, the bleeding is the most annoying part actually.

two solenoids? i've replaced the one close to the EGR valve. and if there's one close to the pressure sensor on the passengers side strut tower, i've replaced that one as well. is there one i've missed?

thanks commuter, i read through your scenario when searching. thing that pisses me off is that the transmission doesn't shift right...car will be lugging along and won't downshift to go up hills sometimes. i also swapped the solenoid, forgot about that one, still no change. yes i cleared the code, came back. i installed an EGR off another vehicle that ran fine without any CEL. but that didn't help either. i've removed all the EGR stuff, blew the lines out, soaked them in cleaner, cleaned the valve, swapped diaphragms, swapped solenoids, swapped the pressure sensor....still no change. i think i will try another solenoid but based on all the cleaning/swapping i've done i can gaurantee it's not going to fix it. if REMOVING it gets rid of the delay in shifting, i'm all about it. i don't give a rip about the CEL so long as the car runs and drives without shifting all stupid. funny things is i have a spare 1997 impreza automatic 2.2 that doesn't have an EGR valve on it, but mine does? they were identical cars, even in color. wondering if i can remove that block off plate and somehow convert mine?

i assumed it was an auto based on the "red fluid", usually that means automatic transmission fluid. most manual trans fluid is not red. no matter, sounds like you got it figured out.

97 Impreza 2.2 liter. I've cleaned the EGR valve, replaced the EGR with a known good used one, replaced the diaphram on top, cleaned out all the passages, blew out the rubber lines, swapped the pressure sensor on the passengers side wall. EGR code is still showing and the transmission will occassionally not down shift....this is EGR related since it's somehow strung to the pressure sensor on the passengers side fender wall. swapping that didn't fix it though. so now what? since the XT6 doesn't have one, i'm not familiar with what they are or why they're there. but i HATE it. Can I remove it and get rid of the code? How will it drive?

try the lucas additive, i contacted a few people who have and they said it helped. the other options are live with it or a rebuild. i know someone that just had it fixed via the rebuild option - $$$.

there's some good endwrench stuff out there for Subaru ABS info. i believe there were certain year/models with relay issues and possibly an updated relay, with a new part number? that's from memory and a little weak though.

nice one. i had a bent control arm on a similar off roading injury. either way it's not bad to fix - strut, control arm, radius rod, that stuff is all easy and cheap to get. i'd check what Gloyale said about making sure it all mounts properly. would it be obvious though when he goes to replace the parts? they won't line up right if something else is out of alignment? he definitely needs that radius rod. if the mounting point or control arm are out of whack then a perfectly good radius rod won't mount properly will it?

oh yeah good move on passing that one up, intentionally passing it along without being honest, nice.

sounds good. i've never done it and doubt i'd think of anything you can't but since this is a discussion board i'll say this: EGR stuff, but that's no big deal anyway and you can get 95 heads with either (auto's have EGR, manuals do not). even if you had to swap to a 95 intake you could probably use the 94 wiring harness on it. timing belt kits are the same from 90-96 so no worries on the tensioner/pulley/timing/cam sprocket stuff either.

sounds like you're already doing the cam seals and timing belt. definitely reseal the oil pump. i would highly recommend the water pump and any free wheeling or noisey pulleys. if money is an issue at all, technically you could chance the pulleys if you want and that's how you like to do things. they don't fail very often and yours isn't that old. but, i would replace any that show these signs and my bet is that one or two will. the thing that sucks about having a dealer do it is the pulleys cost an insane amount from the dealer. you can buy an entire kit, with all new timing belt and an entire set of new pulleys for the same price you'll pay for just one pulley at the dealer, so that's the annoying part. since yours is a 1996 2.2 it should be a non-interference motor so there's no risk of engine damage by neglecting it, but i'd still do it. and i guess if your location is international i would double check on the interference thing it changed in 1997 here in the states, internationally may be different? if it's an interference engine i'm much more inclined to replace pulleys.

huck actually installed a FWD into an AWD with no issues at all, BUT - this was in a 1990 OBDI vehicle. any clue anyone if the 1996 OBDII stuff might be just as simple. i'm betting it is. i guess if the wiring harness is compatible i could as a last resort swap TCU's too.