idosubaru

any chance something wasn't right with installation? it's for sure the right axle? never again on reman'ed for me. i've seen them new out of the box blow to bits and others have had problems as well. you're better off with a used Subaru original. if the vibration is bad enough i would do something about it soon, as i believe a bad CV can damage the plastic speedometer driven gear inside the front differential. that plastic gear is only inches from the shaft, but if it breaks it requires removing and disassembling the transmission and big bucks just to replace a plastic gear. i believe the speedometer driven gear is on the passengers side, so if it's that side i'd be more concerned.

okay from what you're saying this sounds like a great deal. i wouldn't be surprised if it treats you well. wasn't trying to scare you but it's hard to make recommendations without seeing it, knowing the price and your situation. for that price this should be an excellent score, i would shy away from paying top dollar, but doesn't sound like you are.

try to get the bolt to back off a little bit, at least enough to squirt penetrating oil down the shaft. probably won't help much as the corrossion is typically deep, but if you get any room under the head you can get some down there. if you get it to break loose at all, then alternate tightening and loosening in small bits and work your way. also putting upwards pressure from under the head of the bolt as you're loosening helps as well, but this is only possible if it comes up a little bit. i've never done the loosen when engine is warm trick, sounds good.

more difficulty dropping the lifters verses the rocker arms? the rocker arms can not physically stay in place without falling when you're disassembling, it's impossible, so every single one will drop every single time the cam carrier is removed. where the lifters typically lie in the bores. i've never seen an HLA/lifter come out while the engine is in the vehicle, so that is definitely an odd experience to think of them sliding out on their own. they lie on their sides so to speak, parallel to the ground. hopefully he has the same experience, i've had a few that did not come out with penetrating oil and heat...with the head off it doesnt matter the machine shop gets them. with the engine in the car hopefully his come right out.

200,000 is quite a bit. i'm not saying they aren't capable of more, but i also wouldn't expect another 50,000 or 100,000 trouble free miles out of one with that many miles on it. the one thing you have going for you is age, it's not an old vehicle. a 1990 with 200,000 is far more concern than a 2000 with 200,000 on it, particularly with good service records and one owner. means the tires and proper maintenance were probably kept in good repair which is very important on these trans. i wouldn't necessarily rule it out. also keep in mind that replacing this transmission isn't all that unreasonable. used transmissions are relatively inexpensive and you'd easily be able to find a relatively low mileage 50,000-100,000 mile unit for a reasonable cost. installation will run $250-$500. so don't be too worried, a rebuild is not a wise choice on this transmission, it's not worth the high costs in my oppinion considering how reliable these transmissions are.

i think yours is an automatic since you mentioned "red fluid"? if it's an automatic, red fluid will not leak from that seal behind the axle stub. the automatics are mated to the front differential as an assembly and the front differential has differential fluid in it...the thick nasty smelling stuff. so it won't be red. those seals are difficult to replace and the process to reinstalling the retaining plate is very crucial.

all Legacy GT's have the 2.5 and the 1996 Legacy LSi I just picked up does as well. probably easiest if he just told us what he's talking about! if it's a 2.2 then your 1996 isn't interference. 2.2 went to interference design in 1997 model year...so double check the manufacture date to be sure. if it's a 2.5, they are all interference. auto the same in 1990? the 1990 and 1996 are different, i do not know if they will interchange or not. a quick look at the FSM wiring diagram would be where i would start with that one. the auto starters and manual starters are typically different, though i can't say whether the legacy will interchange or not.

your ebrake might just be stuck on though, so you might not need a rebuild at all. check that mechanism, if it's bad i would replace the caliper. of the few stuck ebrakes i've encountered, none have ever done it again after freeing them up. now if the caliper needs rebuilt, i would do it. i've rebuilt mine as prevenative maintenance and rebuilt a few for people on the xt6 board as well. if it's anything like the XT6, which i would guess it is, they are very easy and rebuild kits cost $5-$10 for both sides. the XT6 is a front ebrake set up just like the loyale so i'd imagine it's similar if not identical in process? the ebrake stuff doesn't get in the way at all, just leave all of that. off of the car, use the ebrake mechanism to "push" the piston out. on the car - with the pads out and caliper bracket pulled up, just press the brake pedal until the piston comes out - with lots of brake fluid too so have a bucket under it. pull it the rest of the way out, taking note how the rubber boot and clips are in place. it's very simple on the XT6 - a rubber seal on the piston and one clip to hold the boot in place and that's it. loyale should be the same.

the 99 is a bit different, but doesn't require a 99 to swap with. any 1996-1999 EJ25 will easily swap. later years will as well, plug and play for the most part. you can search here for more info. if you're going with a rebuilt then CCR is the way to go. headgaskets are common issues with these motors, i would not get a used engine unless it was very cheap or known to have had the headgaskets replaced.

you're talking about the rocker arms that fall off. the "lifters", the HLA's or Hydraulic Valve Lash Adjusters often stay in the head and are difficult to remove sometimes, no matter if the engine is out or in.

right on. i was curious if anyone knew whether either set up was easier to transplant than the other...parts, etc? not real familiar with hydraulic set up and what all it entails, but i do have a complete one available. and i know everyone is going to say to just buy a manual, hey that's usually my response, but that's probably not going to happen in this case. it's got the new headgaskets on it too, so i may even keep the engine!

picked up a 1996 Legacy LSi and i'm almost positive i'm going to convert it to FWD Manual. It's an automatic AWD right now. comments on whether I should convert it to cable clutch or hydraulic? does anyone know whether the pedal assemblies are interchangeable between those two? in other words does a hydraulic clutch have to use a "hydraulic clutch" pedal assembly?

excellent choice. the doors are super easy to swap. it's REALLY nice to have someone help though so you can work the first few bolts while holding it steady. it's easy to loose it and ding a corner up or mess up some paint, so either rig something very sturdy or have a helper, it only takes a few minutes, doors are really easy to swap.

should be able to look at the electrical plugs and see. fuel will spray everywhere of course if you do it out of the car. could probably swap injectors that are on there. swap 1 with 3 and 2 with 4. be ironic that both are doing the same thing though, i'd follow GLOYALE's suggestions if they both have a common ground or relay or something. that would make more sense and is more probable statistically speaking (excuse the dork in me).

it's rare for a soob to have injector issues like that, sounds like he has a good starting point for you. i do recall some very interesting posts on fuel injector testing, but never having done it i can't recall the details. i wonder if an inductive timing light could sense the wiring enough to see if the injectors are getting a signal or not? i know those signals are hard to see, don't think you can do it with a basic multimeter.

that must be a good feeling! EDIT/CORRECTION: this only applies to older vehicles since the knock sensor mounts differently.... on an old XT6 i had years ago i had some running problems that were cured by addressing the knock sensor as well. i didn't move it, but i wrapped the sensor threads in a bunch of wraps of plumbing thread tape - probably 12 or so wraps of it. car ran noticeably better. in your case the engine is making noise so that probably wouldn't work. maybe in some cases the knock sensor could have bad threads and rattle around in it's insert somehow?

you should specify which engine, some of us aren't sure which have EA81 or EA82. if yours is an EA82, they are really easy to do in the engine, particularly non-turbo's. i've done a bunch and even more of the 6 cylinder ER27 which is identical to the EA82 with just two more cylinders slapped on, still easy to do in the car. i wouldn't pull one out myself, air tools make it really nice, and i can just about have both heads off by the time it takes to get the motor out. i'd imagine an EA81 isn't all that different time-wise than an EA82, but i've never done one of those. removing the engine is strictly oppinion of course, i've done it both ways. it's definitely a big plus your first time. be very careful removing the intake manifold bolts. they are typically seized and want to shear off, at least in my neck of the woods they often are. there are many posts about sheared intake bolts, removing them, and tips and such. might want to search for those threads.

did you get it? still contemplating? i'd start by seeing which two clyinders aren't "working", check compression. the headgaskets on these aren't all that hard to do really and can easily be done with the engine in the vehicle. dealing with rusty exhaust bolts is the most annoying part. air tools makes it super nice.

I use mine for laptop work with no problems, even on the older soobs. The extra draw is an extra load on the system, so it could conceivably shorten the life of your alternator or battery depending how often it's used. Moderate use would be fine, but constant use could affect the life of those components. Someone more knowledgable than myself can comment more about that.

now, i say this to make a point, so read all of it. not that i recommend it or that it's a good idea, but typically there's enough oil in the system to probably get distributed through your used compressor without adding anything. now, again i don't recommend it and that's not what you're going to do since you also risk completely trashing your system. but my point is, don't feel like you have to measure the quantity to some very specific accuracy, because that isn't the case either. make a good judgement call after hearing some knowledgeable suggestions and enjoy the cool air!

true that. i missed that we were talking about different things. you were talking about their candor in testing, which is an interesting topic that i was getting sidetracked on as well.

the plan is, yes it is coming back. it may or may not have the same domain name though when it's all said and done. there are currently a number of other alternate domain names secured for xt6.net as well, that 'we' already have. one of those may be the main domain if the xt6.net domain issues continue to be unresolvable. hang tight and plan for a long pause. and the "guy in gainesville, FL" is a member of our group and Austin's brother. the issue lies with these guys: Registrant Contact: Registerfly.com Responsible Party

that they try to be accurate doesn't tell the original poster much about his vehicle. and i didn't necessarily contradict that, but in the same way they choose certain "myths" over others for the overall entertainment value, they would be stupid not to do the same thing within the tests they are doing and make decisions that increase their overall value. that they use nice, new SUV's in itself is proof, of course it looks nice, rides nice, sells and gives a positive image. no matter how or why it came about, an SUV will surely have different results than a car. expecting subaru results to mirror an SUV probably isn't very accurate.

how about installing what you need and only removing what you have to?

i wouldn't be surprised if cars had different results than SUV's. and it wouldn't surprise me at all if they actually tested a few vehicles (car, truck, SUV) and found the ONE that "contradicted" what people would think or had some quirk to it that made for good television..and that's the one they showed/produced. that's how television works. it's nice what they're doing, but i wouldn't trust it all that much either.