idosubaru

way too dynamic to put a number on. if you want/need it, then it's worth far more. i've seen much better deals myself on turbo legacy's. but they are rare and hard to find, don't see them very often and it has relatively low miles though it sounds like it's been some hard miles. it's only $1,500, so if you want it then get it. i'd offer less but if it's what you're looking for...legacy turbo, project car, then go for it. if you're not gung ho about a project car and money is somewhat of an issue i suggest waiting.

showing that this is not a new concept and has been around awhile. if it is apples to oranges then the reasons the XT6 trans get the same gas mileage is.....different than why the new ones do? an engine running at 1,000rpm will get different efficiency when running at 7,000. assuming that curve is continuous (which it is) logic suggests that 1,000 rpm's can make a difference, but i see your point that maybe it is negligible.

i'll be going from a 2.5 trans to a 2.2 trans, so yes i'll see a final drive difference. im' wondering if the gear ratio changes means my speedometer will read incorrectly or if that happens inside the trans?

if it's the same one he mentioned on another forum (where it took 3 or 4 pages to figure it out!)- it's an EJ22. but he said he wasn't going to get it?

YES! actually i didn't think anything of it until i read this post. i picked up a Legacy LSi that has these style headgaskets on it and they were replaced by the dealer. when i looked at it, i thought it looked a bit different but just blew it off. i just looked up when it was replaced - January of 2003. when did the "revised" headgasket come out? are the phase I and phase II stock headgaskets the same?

good call. everything still stands. i'd want a new timing belt, it's nearly due and if it was replaced around 100k the pulleys/water pump should still be addressed. you're asking the water pump and pulleys to go to 300k if you don't replace them with the next timing belt. that is risky.

the auto's weigh considerably more, that's one difference that isn't going away. don't forget to look up the track times of the auto's vs. manuals as well - you'll see some auto's recorded with slightly better or equal times. also the gear ratios are different, i think this matters as well. a manual AWD XT6 and a 4EAT AWD XT6 can both get nearly the same highway gas mileage. the auto at highway speeds will run 3,000 rpms while the manual runs nearly 4,000 at the same speed. i do not know if that makes a difference, but it sure seems like turning your engine over 750-1000 times more per minute would take more energy. in this case i think the less efficient auto is counteracted by a more highway friendly gear ratio.

awesome! you've done a 95-96 interchange? fantastic, that's exactly what i needed to know! so i'm getting that trans, one only has 80k - 90k on it. i had been plugging away on there and had found those 95's in scottdale which is really close, that's why i was wanting to know if it would work. to go with a 96 would have been much more expensive and much further away too. thanks!

fluid exchange is a great option, i'm with him. though i didn't know about the "don't use chemicals" stuff since i've only ever drain/refilled myself. another option if your a DIY type is to have a huge container full of new fluid. have the intake hose pulling fluid from it, the other side hose going into an empty bucket. crank the engine over for a very short time. it will suck the new fluid up while dumping the old fluid out. when new fluid starts coming out, turn it off and you're done. i've yet to try that, but know others that have.

OP Subex is from PA. if you were to swap it, just keep your existing intake manifold and bolt it to the old block. all the wiring is associated with the intake manifold, so keep that. people want the 2.2 because they're more reliable than the 2.5. even with new headgaskets i've seen 2.5's with bearing issues, rods coming through the block, and piston slap (possible but much more rare on the 2.2's), both of which you can find plenty of examples of on the internet/this board. 2.2's are a dime a dozen too, 2.5's are far more expensive. i have a bunch of 2.5's and i'm probably pulling a perfectly good one with new headgaskets out of my personal Legacy. i'd rather have the 2.2 in there, the reliability is worth it to me for the menial power difference. 20hp big deal, if i wanted a fast car the EJ25 wouldn't even be on the radar.

when he says "worst i have seen" that's true but misleading for new to subaru people. it's the "worst of the best". the EJ22, 2.2 is a fantastic engine. you can't get much closer to a gauranteed 200,000 mile engine. and i agree the 99 and up years are my least favorite, but they are still excellent motors. the 95-98 2.2's are much nicer in varying ways from a picky, mechanic, i work on these things all the time point of view. but for your purposes this is still a great engine. not nearly as bad as the EJ25 or many other engines/makes out there. this is a great car, great engine. the 2.2 is well known as a reliability machine. stick with the 2.2 over the 2.5, you're doing yourself a favor. it is an odd ball year, but thing is you won't likely have to replace it. and if you do you have options. if it's an automatic transmission i would bet that would have issues before the engine. the auto trans are reliable and excellent, but they are more likely to have issues than the motor in my experience. Two main items to ask about and address. when test driving, drive in very tight circles, slowly in the parking lot. if it feels like it's binding (wanting to stop/slow down), then the center diff (manual trans) or AWD clutch packs (auto trans) are problematic and you'll want them to fix it or move on. also ask about the timing belt maintenance. it should be on it's 3rd timing belt by now, there's no way to know how old it is. i'd want a new belt, new water pump and to have all the timing pulleys inspected (at least one will need replacing - most likely the cogged idler will be noisey). this is an interference engine with a 60,000 mile timing belt replacement interval. if one of those pulleys seizes or the water pump blows, that takes the timing belt and engine with it. so a thorough timing belt job is due and that typically runs $600-$800 at the dealer. The dealer should be willing to do this for you before you buy...actually i bet they've already installed the timing belt. if they have not though, i would specifically ask about the pulleys, at 180,000 miles i guarantee one needs replaced at least. if they're willing to do the water pump and timing belt for free, i'd offer to pay for a new pulley or two as needed, they are highly unlikely to include that. as far as price. don't ask here, we typically buy cars very cheap on these boards. my OBS was $3,500 a few years ago with 60,000 and i just bought a 97 impreza for a friend this year for $3,000 with 80,000 on it. thing is the OBS are harder to find than other vehicles but they are nice. my wife adores hers, she absolutely loves (as i do) that it's not a full size wagon, but very practical and functional for her. we can fit both our mountain bikes in the back. you are paying "top dollar" but if it's in great condition, is what you want and has a warranty then tear it up. you're getting a great vehicle. the 98 and earlier are nicer like he just mentioned from a picky perspective, i agree, but i think the stats are in your favor. any time you buy something with 180,000 miles on it you'd have to be a goober to think it's "like new", but this is a great pick for buying a used 180,000 mile vehicle. keep in mind the dealer should knock off some of that price. my buddy bought a truck this week for $7,000 when the "sticker price" said $10,000. they make massive bank on used vehicles, much more than new, particularly trade in like this probably is. they should easily come down $1000 - $500 if you like playing the game. stop at the library or book store and glance through a book about buying cars, previous car salesmen have good advice. thing is...play that price game FIRST - then find out about having them due the timing belt. they will include the timing belt, it is only fair given that at 180,000 miles it should have been replaced 3 times already by their own books. it's a great car, i would check it out.

HEY! that was funny. i only have manual EJ trans, no auto's and i want to convert it from AWD to FWD. jamal - i'll definitely take that 95 info, thanks a ton. no rush on it, so don't sweat it. 95 trans are all over the place, 96 are harder to find and more expensive and further away.

great info. now i'm after 1995 FWD TCU info to compare to this 1996. thanks porcupine, that's exactly what i needed! i may take what you sent me to the dealer and see if they'll let me look at their 1995 page.

great, thanks porcupine! i was looking for the list of input/outputs of the TCU pins like the pic i have posted here (1st gen stuff), but i think yours will have that info in it as well. and john, it's not too late i haven't started yet. still debating auto verses manual. think i'm going auto for now and i can do manual down the road. i believe you're correct on the FWD/AWD being nearly identical and i think you can frankenstein it like that. problem is the front diff is toast. which leads to the option of running rear wheel drive but that's not a good option for me. thanks!

bump for massive editing: Can anyone post the TCU inputs for 1995, or 1996 Legacy FWD or AWD Automatic transmissions? I believe it's only two pages in the FSM. (page 146 in the first generation legacy FSM)

1993 Legacy FWD manual I picked up from a board member. I'm wondering if this is fixable or worth installing? Here is what he says about the trans: I have a 5 speed 2wd manual trans from a 93 Legacy L. The car had about 150K when the trans was switched. The car was making a chirping sound and the mechanic told me I needed a new trans. After a few months I had the same problem with the new trans that was not as good as the original. No problems other than a chirp I mentioned. You can see where the sleeve that surrounds the drive shaft looks worn. I believe the guys that changed my clutch did not line something up well that wore the sleeve down & made the chirp noise.

check the fluid level, if it's leaking the fluid can't stay full.

really? when buying a new car with a huge sticker price insurance factors in? that's bizarre, maybe it's worse in NY. i buy whatever cars i want, i don't care or ever think about insurance except making sure im covered well over the "minimums". you should be able to call your insurance provider and ask them. it's all automated by now, i'd imagine if VDC gets a discount they should be able to tell you.

if it ends up being the motor assembly, i've actually replaced the entire door. it's much easier in my oppinion but i hate window motors.

dave are you going through with this? i think i just decided to swap mine as well 1996 Legacy LSi from Auto to Manual. i'll definitely be wanting to figure that cruise control out too. Josh has lots of cruise control details in his write up, great job boss i've looked at it a number of times over the year, looks like i'll get to use it! are you going with hydraulic or cable clutch? are you starting soon?

have you check your fluid levels? is your manual trans gear oil (or front diff oil if an autotrans) low? if not, then it's not your transmission. are you sure it's not just the cv axle leaking? has that axle ever been replaced? how long ago or how old is it? that would be ideal. and that would be more like "grease" rather than "oil". and a cv axle would make noise, a leaking front diff seal will not make noise..until it runs out and damages the trans. the last post mentions details regarding a leak at the front differential axle seal. those are rather labor intensive and make absolutely certain they are reinstalled exactly as they sit right now. make sure it's not your CV boot leaking before assuming it's this seal.

well all i can say is you're not wasting your time thinking and looking. might want to price some 3/4" socket wrenches and sockets. that's what i got from a general tool supplier, can't recall the name but they sell all sorts of equipment. they may have better pricing on that stuff. i know i didn't pay anywhere close to $100 for the wrench and a set of 6 sockets. you could probably get just the wrench and source the one size nut you need to save a few bucks off of what i did too.

are you sure it's not the lines leaking? also, the fluid reservoir has an oring at the base, they are prone to leak. they also cost about $50 to replace. if it's leaking from the shaft seal, then you'll probably want to just get a used one. even so, i'd still put a new oring on the reservoir if you get another pump.

clean your connections/switch and contacts as much as you can. not all that experienced with the loyale, i've never had to remove one of those. but, remove the switch and clean it, sometimes it's that simple. also, i was a bit confused. when the windows "don't go up", does that mean no matter which switch you use...drivers side or passengers side...the windows won't go up? or is it only the drivers side that won't operate the windows? if that's the case, then it's obviously related to the drivers side switch circuit.

the EJ series stuff has a notch that's bent in as well, i assume you bent that out of the way if it's there? 3/4" socket is the proper hand tool to use on this job. i've broken 2 1/2" sockets and one 1/2" breaker bar. 1/2" is not the proper tool to use, but it does work most of the time. when i finally got a 3/4" set i could have beat myself for not doing it sooner and i have air tools but that's not always easy to lug around or take with you. that being said, i've gotten 1/2" to work plenty of times too. a large pipe is necessary. another option is to put a jack under the handle and use the jack to put the stank to it. often if they're really bad though you'll still need the breaker bar and the jack. HEAT - HUGE, HUGE, this is your friend. heat the nut, and the nut only, for about 1 minute. helps immensely. heat it and immediately give it all you got to get it off. ideally you want to try and break it loose when the nut is hottest relative to the axle threads. eventually the heat from the nut will heat up the axle threads as well and won't help you if you overheat it or wait too long such that they are both hot...you know that whole entropy nonsense.