idosubaru

great info. now i'm after 1995 FWD TCU info to compare to this 1996. thanks porcupine, that's exactly what i needed! i may take what you sent me to the dealer and see if they'll let me look at their 1995 page.

great, thanks porcupine! i was looking for the list of input/outputs of the TCU pins like the pic i have posted here (1st gen stuff), but i think yours will have that info in it as well. and john, it's not too late i haven't started yet. still debating auto verses manual. think i'm going auto for now and i can do manual down the road. i believe you're correct on the FWD/AWD being nearly identical and i think you can frankenstein it like that. problem is the front diff is toast. which leads to the option of running rear wheel drive but that's not a good option for me. thanks!

bump for massive editing: Can anyone post the TCU inputs for 1995, or 1996 Legacy FWD or AWD Automatic transmissions? I believe it's only two pages in the FSM. (page 146 in the first generation legacy FSM)

1993 Legacy FWD manual I picked up from a board member. I'm wondering if this is fixable or worth installing? Here is what he says about the trans: I have a 5 speed 2wd manual trans from a 93 Legacy L. The car had about 150K when the trans was switched. The car was making a chirping sound and the mechanic told me I needed a new trans. After a few months I had the same problem with the new trans that was not as good as the original. No problems other than a chirp I mentioned. You can see where the sleeve that surrounds the drive shaft looks worn. I believe the guys that changed my clutch did not line something up well that wore the sleeve down & made the chirp noise.

check the fluid level, if it's leaking the fluid can't stay full.

really? when buying a new car with a huge sticker price insurance factors in? that's bizarre, maybe it's worse in NY. i buy whatever cars i want, i don't care or ever think about insurance except making sure im covered well over the "minimums". you should be able to call your insurance provider and ask them. it's all automated by now, i'd imagine if VDC gets a discount they should be able to tell you.

if it ends up being the motor assembly, i've actually replaced the entire door. it's much easier in my oppinion but i hate window motors.

dave are you going through with this? i think i just decided to swap mine as well 1996 Legacy LSi from Auto to Manual. i'll definitely be wanting to figure that cruise control out too. Josh has lots of cruise control details in his write up, great job boss i've looked at it a number of times over the year, looks like i'll get to use it! are you going with hydraulic or cable clutch? are you starting soon?

have you check your fluid levels? is your manual trans gear oil (or front diff oil if an autotrans) low? if not, then it's not your transmission. are you sure it's not just the cv axle leaking? has that axle ever been replaced? how long ago or how old is it? that would be ideal. and that would be more like "grease" rather than "oil". and a cv axle would make noise, a leaking front diff seal will not make noise..until it runs out and damages the trans. the last post mentions details regarding a leak at the front differential axle seal. those are rather labor intensive and make absolutely certain they are reinstalled exactly as they sit right now. make sure it's not your CV boot leaking before assuming it's this seal.

well all i can say is you're not wasting your time thinking and looking. might want to price some 3/4" socket wrenches and sockets. that's what i got from a general tool supplier, can't recall the name but they sell all sorts of equipment. they may have better pricing on that stuff. i know i didn't pay anywhere close to $100 for the wrench and a set of 6 sockets. you could probably get just the wrench and source the one size nut you need to save a few bucks off of what i did too.

are you sure it's not the lines leaking? also, the fluid reservoir has an oring at the base, they are prone to leak. they also cost about $50 to replace. if it's leaking from the shaft seal, then you'll probably want to just get a used one. even so, i'd still put a new oring on the reservoir if you get another pump.

clean your connections/switch and contacts as much as you can. not all that experienced with the loyale, i've never had to remove one of those. but, remove the switch and clean it, sometimes it's that simple. also, i was a bit confused. when the windows "don't go up", does that mean no matter which switch you use...drivers side or passengers side...the windows won't go up? or is it only the drivers side that won't operate the windows? if that's the case, then it's obviously related to the drivers side switch circuit.

the EJ series stuff has a notch that's bent in as well, i assume you bent that out of the way if it's there? 3/4" socket is the proper hand tool to use on this job. i've broken 2 1/2" sockets and one 1/2" breaker bar. 1/2" is not the proper tool to use, but it does work most of the time. when i finally got a 3/4" set i could have beat myself for not doing it sooner and i have air tools but that's not always easy to lug around or take with you. that being said, i've gotten 1/2" to work plenty of times too. a large pipe is necessary. another option is to put a jack under the handle and use the jack to put the stank to it. often if they're really bad though you'll still need the breaker bar and the jack. HEAT - HUGE, HUGE, this is your friend. heat the nut, and the nut only, for about 1 minute. helps immensely. heat it and immediately give it all you got to get it off. ideally you want to try and break it loose when the nut is hottest relative to the axle threads. eventually the heat from the nut will heat up the axle threads as well and won't help you if you overheat it or wait too long such that they are both hot...you know that whole entropy nonsense.

i'd say it's too many factors to nail down. other contributing factors...DOHC are older, more miles, more likely to have already been fixed, less likely to go to the dealer (like you said). two 2.5's i picked up this year had already been replaced. i buy them with blown headgaskets from individuals and i see more DOHC, probably for similar reasons with a different end result. i'd think those people are more likely to sell than get fixed and some SOHC headgaskets are covered under warranty, so of course they'll see those.

wow, you were probably laughing over the phone. buying a used hub isn't a good idea unless you know yours are bad, which it sounds like they are not. or if you wanted a set to have new bearings installed in. machine shops typically charge $50-$100 to install bearings in a hub, an hour or two labor but that's with the hub already off. i guess that 9 hours is for both sides? that would be 4.5 hours each, with much of that being removal of the hub. i don't know, but they may well sub that out to a machine shop as well. i'm surprised they'd even quote you for installing supplied parts at a dealer. thing is you're getting double and triple charged for removing the wheel, the hub, the struts...all of those are involved or partially involved in each individual job, but their shop rates are just added together. that's why a good mechanic at a dealer can make 6 figures around larger cities.

could be pinging. try a tank or two of the highest octane available in your area. if it goes away then it's pinging. EJ's are not the quietest motors i've ever seen i'll say that. subaru does not seem to care what engines may sound like after a couple years, if they do, then they suck at imt! are all the timing pulleys original with that many miles on them as well? axles can make clickety, click noises too, but i assue it's definitely motor related?

if you did want to do this yourself, take the hub and bearings to a machine shop and have them pressed in for you. that would save you time on the tricky part, struts, axle and a hub swap won't take long at all, that would be easy. i have spare hubs and that's what i do, makes it super simple to do it myself with no down time. swapping a hub is cake. another option is to just buy a used hub and swap that in yourself or have a shop install a used hub for you. and another option is to find out exactly what part is bad and only replace that item. i agree - sounds like axle, in which case why bother replacing the bearings? 5 hours includes removing and installing the hub? they may sub that work out to a neighboring machine shop to deal with the pressing jobs.

i'm not sure how it all works, i think i'd start by taking the shifter off and cleaning/greasing the button properly and checking the connections like porcupine says. fairly sure that's really easy to do, i've take them off before but never gotton into the button mechanism.

valve cover gaskets are easy. just remove the valve cover, clean surfaces, swap gaskets, reinstall valve cover. i would do both sides, but some that like the "don't fix it if it aint broke" idea, would not fix it and it could last a very long time. there's plenty of other gaskets and seals you're not replacing.

EA82 ECU's change part numbers like diapers, his turbo ECU definitely will not be the same as your non-turbo ECU. i posted part numbers for 1987.5 XT ECU's on the first page of this thread if that helps.

sometimes there's a diagram posted under the hood as well showing some of the vaccuum line routings.

i don't know any of those acronyms either, don't feel bad! i wouldn't be surprised if the block is toast, but of course im' jumping the gun having never seen it and all. could be headgaskets, seals, piston rings, hole in a piston...etc. i'd try to do a compression or leak down test on it.

subarugenuineparts.com - jamie there are multiple posts with links various online subaru vendors, i've looked them up before.

i think you started another thread right? and i thikn i replied to it. depends what boost you're running. if it's low boost you'd be okay, but there are still things to consider for it to be reliable and last. but yes, it would be very easy to run it too high.