idosubaru

anyone know the part number for the EJ series front differential on an AWD automatic?

those of us that say to use OEM Subaru (or magnecor) are not saying that "every single aftermarket wire will fail immediately upon installation". it comes down to risks, percentages and how you view car maintenance. for those of us that have replaced hundreds of spark plug wires and have a large base of experiences and mileages to look at, we are conveying the highest level of reliability and least amount of risk that we see. and good point, i'm sure some aftermarkets are better than others, using the cheapest, chain stores sets or "single wires" is a very bad idea for EJ engines.

for plugs and wires it's best to keep to Subaru OEM on both. just so you know, this is true of your engine and really all the newer generation stuff, not necessarily all subaru's. i (and others) have seen brand new aftermarket wires causes cylinder misfire codes and poor running right out of the box, we do not recommend this for no reason. for your engine the only other option is Magnecor wires, that's what i use. they are excellent and you will never need to replace them. check out their website if you're interested.

oh yes, definitely wait and replace that. there's no way you want to introduce contaminants there inside the trans, no matter how small and benign they may seem in your hand. some thick grease is about the only way to help hold in place. i've always found that seal a bit flakey, it's amazing to me they don't cause more problems than they do. the dealer calls it a "ring seal" and if you can, take a picture with it circled or better yet a part number, sometimes they have a hard time finding it on their screens.

your price range and what you want out of it will determine more than our oppinions. i like reliability and cheap since i hate driving trucks with a passion, strictly functional for me. i have a straight 6 300 1994 Ford F150. in terms of reliability you can't really beat that motor with a manual trans, maybe with the exception of diesels but i know nothing about those. i tow cars with it through the mountains and it's a bit on the weak side, have to down shift to 4th to get up the steep interstate grades but otherwise it does exactly what i need and doesn't cost a dime. i've just now reached my first "repair" - a headlight at 175,000 miles. kind of scarry that everything but belts, plugs and tires on it are still original considering i'm a replacement/maintenance guy on my soobs.

does anyone know if automatic EA/ER 4EAT front diffs are similar to EJ front diffs? are any of the parts interchangeable? i have an ER (XT6) auto trans an EJ auto trans, both 4EAT obviously. if i have to pull them apart to look, what am i looking for to see if the front differentials are interchangeable? any hints there?

does anyone know if automatic EA/ER 4EAT front diffs are similar to EJ front diffs? are any of the parts interchangeable? i have a bad ER (XT6) auto trans and a bad EJ auto trans, both 4EAT obviously. if i have to pull them apart to look, what am i looking for to see if the front differentials are interchangeable? any hints there?

yes

EJ axles are cake, if you're pounding and separating suspension parts you're doing way too much work. with the wheel off all i do is remove the top strut mount bolt - that's it, one bolt. it's eccentric, so mark it like in the photo and make sure it's orientation is the same when you install it - that's how they adjust camber. i don't even remove the bottom strut mount bolt, just loosen it so i can rotate the hub out.

cool. others have seen bad shifting when swapping the TCU. i ask if they have the TCU if i'm looking at a transmission. for $50-$100 it's worth it to have on hand.

it's not only the 92's. checking the SVX boards would be a nice place to go, all the SVX owners and knowledgeable folks that are here are over there, and there is a ton of information there about the SVX. i'd probably snoop around there for a bit.

great vehicle, but is not for the faint of heart. i wouldn't get one unless you are really, really wanting an SVX. i'm a huge fan of them and their predecessor the XT6. the engines are very reliable and they are great vehicles. keep in mine though it's nearing 15 years old and reliability at this point is mostly affected by the previous 15 years of ownership, not the original quality of the vehicle (which is rather high). parts are hard to find and parts can be insanely expensive. $700 for a windshield just for starters, others here can post more insane prices. part availability and prices are your enemy here, make your decision based on that. if you're willing to deal with sourcing parts and paying far higher prices for things, then you're good. wheel bearing and auto trans failure are the most common issues. the automatic transmissions have a high failure rate, it isn't surprising to see them already replaced or rebuilt by this time. heat kills them, they need an ATF cooler. so if you get it, have one installed right away. and be sure to test drive and make sure the transmission feels really good and the ATF doesn't smell toasty or look bad.

to the OP - the gear ratios for auto trans are hard to come by. there are links to pages with massives amounts of info on manual trans, but the auto trans stuff is harder to find. probably easier to stop at a dealer and ask them, it should be in the FSM. what's the difference here and which transmissions had which style?

good follow up jim. i keep calling it that too, just remember that's not a valid domain yet. still working on getting that back, but right now it looks either impossible or something that may happen in like a year. so stick with the subaruxt link moody just posted...even if, like me, yo'ure still saying "xt6.net".

what a hysterical thread, this should be in the funnies or something. that's great you got it already! nice score huh!

crack, can you take a battery and some alligator clips with you? a lawn mower battery will work fine and much smaller/lighter. probably some other small/light options but mower batteries are everywhere.

i heard back from them "We've taken our vehicles to a place called Stewart's Automotive in Salem, IN, and we've had very positive experiences with them". these are highly respected friends of mine, i would imagine they deal with a decent shop, although they haven't been there for a super long time, just a couple years. hope that helps. said that's all they know in their area. if you want i can call them and get them to track their parents down, they live about 30 minutes away though i don't know in what direction.

you could try and see if it comes off, the EJ stuff usually doesn't give me any problems. after that you're only talking 10-20 minutes to have the oil pump as good as new.

no definitely not. just torque everything properly. lock tite the oil pump backing plate screws only.

have you done it? others that have swapped trans and TCU have said that it seems best to keep the TCU for the vehicle as it's programed for the particular weight/style. in other words a GT sedan TCU would be better in a GT sedan, not a wagon. i'm about to swap trans and that's what i've seen/heard out of searching here and asking.

that's what i thought, just checking. was hoping i "missed" something!

they are definitely the correct axles? the noise isn't the splines stripping is it? i know you'd pick up on that, but just checking. can you tell which side it's coming from? did it do this before? you could try reinstalling one of the old axles to see if it goes away.

what is this, what are you talking about? do you mean the end of the speedometer cable that screws into the tranny with the slotted end on it? or is this a part inside the trans? ever hopefuly mine is something simple but i know it's not.....grrrr....

the crank seal is less important than the oil plate backing screws which you should inspect. remove and thread lock and retighten any screws that are loose (almost always one or two that are). this be default makes it a good time to replace the crank seal and oil pump oring, very simple to do. EJ oil pumps are easier than EA/ER stuff.

hope you have noticed all the recommendations for the Fel-Pro permatorques, do not miss that. they do not require retorque like other gaskets...which is a ton of extra work and they are great gaskets. do not buy that gasket set, with our help you'll end up with what you need, better parts, at far better prices.