idosubaru

to the OP - the gear ratios for auto trans are hard to come by. there are links to pages with massives amounts of info on manual trans, but the auto trans stuff is harder to find. probably easier to stop at a dealer and ask them, it should be in the FSM. what's the difference here and which transmissions had which style?

good follow up jim. i keep calling it that too, just remember that's not a valid domain yet. still working on getting that back, but right now it looks either impossible or something that may happen in like a year. so stick with the subaruxt link moody just posted...even if, like me, yo'ure still saying "xt6.net".

what a hysterical thread, this should be in the funnies or something. that's great you got it already! nice score huh!

crack, can you take a battery and some alligator clips with you? a lawn mower battery will work fine and much smaller/lighter. probably some other small/light options but mower batteries are everywhere.

i heard back from them "We've taken our vehicles to a place called Stewart's Automotive in Salem, IN, and we've had very positive experiences with them". these are highly respected friends of mine, i would imagine they deal with a decent shop, although they haven't been there for a super long time, just a couple years. hope that helps. said that's all they know in their area. if you want i can call them and get them to track their parents down, they live about 30 minutes away though i don't know in what direction.

you could try and see if it comes off, the EJ stuff usually doesn't give me any problems. after that you're only talking 10-20 minutes to have the oil pump as good as new.

no definitely not. just torque everything properly. lock tite the oil pump backing plate screws only.

have you done it? others that have swapped trans and TCU have said that it seems best to keep the TCU for the vehicle as it's programed for the particular weight/style. in other words a GT sedan TCU would be better in a GT sedan, not a wagon. i'm about to swap trans and that's what i've seen/heard out of searching here and asking.

that's what i thought, just checking. was hoping i "missed" something!

they are definitely the correct axles? the noise isn't the splines stripping is it? i know you'd pick up on that, but just checking. can you tell which side it's coming from? did it do this before? you could try reinstalling one of the old axles to see if it goes away.

what is this, what are you talking about? do you mean the end of the speedometer cable that screws into the tranny with the slotted end on it? or is this a part inside the trans? ever hopefuly mine is something simple but i know it's not.....grrrr....

the crank seal is less important than the oil plate backing screws which you should inspect. remove and thread lock and retighten any screws that are loose (almost always one or two that are). this be default makes it a good time to replace the crank seal and oil pump oring, very simple to do. EJ oil pumps are easier than EA/ER stuff.

hope you have noticed all the recommendations for the Fel-Pro permatorques, do not miss that. they do not require retorque like other gaskets...which is a ton of extra work and they are great gaskets. do not buy that gasket set, with our help you'll end up with what you need, better parts, at far better prices.

good point, though it has been done. more to deal with for sure. then the obvious answer is to get an XT6!

perma-tack? i might be making that up, maybe it's a permatex product and it's tacky....i can picture the freaking bottles, but the names are eluding me. like i said, very common and easy to find though.

yep pep boys will have it, it's very common. rummage down the sealant aisle or ask, you'll see it. i would use this over RTV.

on an EJ - at most i'd use the tack stuff that's specifically designed for water pumps, not RTV.

i sent them an email, sometimes she doesn't check her email for a couple days, but she should respond, if not i'll call. feel free to PM or email me a reminded, i'm rather busy and making lists doesn't cut it because they'd be a billion pages long. reminders are good - i'm good at over commiting, but i did send them an email. i can call if they don't write back in the next day or two.

yeah that stuff is very simple, there's nothing complicated or subaru specific in any of that. the trans will get a new transmission filter assuming it's a 99 or newer, but they should see that sitting there. your goal is an honest mechanic, not cheap, just a straight shooter that wants to do a good job. most want to make as much money as possible. that means flat rates and do them as quick (less quality) as possible. dealerships work under the same principles, it's revenue driven. now that's not bad, i'm not against that, 'im a business man and understand that - but the high price should also come with quality and fair treatment. too often these days high prices come because "people will pay it" "people don't have the expertise" and the quality isn't there because the shops paying a guy by job...not by hour or salary. some soob mechanics in DC are making 6 figures working tons of hours and completing lots of "jobs", i had a regional subaru executive trying to recruit me - it's about quantity, not quality. the quicker your filter and fluid is changed the quicker he gets to the next job and more money. do you think that makes you get a "better" and "attention to detail" trans filter and fluid chnage - of course not. they're answer to that is - insurance, that's not what you want. how far are you from Salem, IN? I have very good friends there and will send them an email about who they go to. fairly certain that have a good mechanic, his family is from close to there as well, so they may know others elsewhere. let me know what part of the state and i'll shoot them an email. i'm off to send them an email.

gotcha, the EG33 fits in the XT6 if that helps you at all.

if you transplant the entire wiring harness i'm not sure why this would be such a big deal on the wiring end. swap the entire engine, transmission, wiring harness and computer and call it a day. i would not go with stand alone myself. the XT will run without the dash even installed, now i don't recommed that, but i'm just saying that the dash isn't necessary and i'm sure you can figure out how to get the RPM's, speedo and temp gauge to work as needed.

i'm sure you thought of this, but the EG33 would probably be an excellent option as well. much easier to find, very, very reliable, non interference (well technically it's not but functionally speaking it is) and i think more HP. cheaper, just as reliable, and more hp.....lots of performance options for it too.

LSD on the rear diff tag. if not, turn one side stub. if the other side turns the same way it's LSD, if it turns the opposite way it's not.

okay i've never disassembled the struts before. i thought for sure that any EJ strut could be used in an XT6 if you swapped the top strut mount. so i was figuring at most i could swap the top strut mount and use these Legacy struts and springs on my impreza. actually i was thinking it would be a straight up swap, didn't know they were that different. i didn't know this was uknown territory, maybe the XT6 guys actually know more since we're the ones playing with EJ struts all the time.

i agree that is a bit high, is that american dollars or candian? don't know if that matters or what the conversoin rates are. sounds like he's just charging you a few hundred less than the dealer rather than giving you a good deal. but if you konw the guy hopefully he'll treat you right and not rush to get it done and get to his next job. he may be including a valve job in the mix too, i always get a valve job done when i pull a head with any mileage on it. and he could be replacing additional parts. make sure he uses Fel-Pro permatorque gaskets, they do not require a retorque and are highly recommended by subaru experienced community (us, many of which have replaced dozens of headgaskets).