idosubaru

XT6. there's no aftermarket support for these so "engine mods" are very limited if yo'ure looking for bolt on parts. an XT Turbo probably has the potential to be "quicker" with the stock engine. it would require exhaust and turbo work and without it the XT Turbo's are quite a bit slower than the XT6. just keep in mind, neither are fast. if you do decide with an XT Turbo get the harder to find but nicer 1987.5 version. be sure to join us at http://subaruxt.com/forum/index.php

first thing i'd do is make sure it's not an internal leak/mixing of the front diff and trans fluid. keep an eye on the fluid levels over time, they could be mixing. otherwise, yeah that's a real bad deal but not much you can do about it now. i'd imagine it has a good chance of being okay, but the good thing is that if it does fail it should give plenty of warning and shouldn't just randomly break down on you.

great job! i've found the EJ stuff much simpler than EJ's, just need to remove the top strut mount and loosen the bottom. i've never had to remove anything else to do EJ front axles, super easy. maybe some have different sway bars or something that make it harder that i haven't seen yet.

gothca, makes sense. is there an easy way to explain why it's possible for the auto but not the manual? if there's not, i can start another post or search.

i agree 100% with this being the only way to go. the other thing that i've seen done is to install a piece of metal that isn't rigidly fixed in position, that sounds like a terrible idea. if i were doing this, i'd tap and fit a piece rigidly to the pump.

first, check your fluid level to see if you're loosing it. if it's leaking your fluid level has to decrease. it's not terribly difficult, but it is tricky and critical that it's done very precisely. i'm not an expert on the deal, but the retainer around that seal has to come out of the trans and those adjust some kind of pre-load on the bearings or front diff inside the trans. basically if you mark it and count how many revolutions to remove it and then install it with the same number of revolutions and back to it's original position yo'ure fine. not difficult, just be sure to get it exactly the same as it was before. but, i would assume it's just grease that's been heated and running in that area. definitely rule that out before assuming the worst.

you mean it doesn't slide onto the axle stub of the transmission at all? or it partially goes on? if it's not going on, keep trying, it should go. new axles may have very stiff joints and be hard to bend to get squared up, should be the same as EA stuff on this part of installing. just like the EA stuff as well, the pin will only install one way, you can look at the splines and tell before you go to install it or try and install...the axle will slide on, but the pin will not go in. if you have that problem, then rotate 180 degrees and try again. i'm leaving and won't have internet any more but you can call my home number if you still have it and have any questions. i'll be there in about an hour.

make sure you marked the proper strut bolt - only one adjusts camber, can't recall if it's the top of bottom one? don't remember on the cone washer, but the EJ series stuff uses an indention to secure the axle nut. you should have had to pry the notched in part of the axle nut out in order for it to unthread. with the new one installed, you use a punch to indent the axle nut again into the notch on the axle. they use that rather than a cotter pin you see on the EA stuff.

hey, if someone is misled by "maybe" i appologize! i know someone installing 4.44 front diff guts in an XT6 auto trans, but i realize the manuals are another story. .

yes, the XT6 trans has a center diff lock button.

he's not missing the picture, just making a statement about looks, nothing wrong with that discussion. he never said subaru's are only and exclusively quirky because of looks. he's only commenting on the "cosmetic quirkiness". man, everyone has to pick apart the point of the thread!

XT6 trans will bolt right up to an EA82 - completely interchangeable, same transmission really just minor differences - like the final drive. as far as driveshafts you won't have any issues if you're installing it in a turbo vehicle, non turbo's have a different spline count. if it's a non turbo, just get a set of turbo axles for it and mix and match. someone calculated once before that going between 3.7 and 3.9 final drive is a relatively minor change, if you're really wanting to change the gearing you're better off going even higher to make the effort worth while...that's just regurgitating from someone else though, i'm sure others will comment more specifically. the front differentials should be interchangeable. EJ series front diffs may interchange - almost postive they do for the automatics, i'd imagine the manuals may as well. if this is the case then you can go with 4.11 or 4.44 gearing as well.

good one. we wanted quirky huh, what's more quirky than a functional hood vent? sometimes it takes more than one try to "get it right". i actually like them better than impreza scoops, admitedly my own quirk. xt guru and while i like it on my OBS, sitting that high off an XT6 isn't my style.

that's what i was thinking. people do the EJ swaps enough that it doesn't seem to matter, they're usually just going the opposite direction. unless i find something very compelling i'm going with the EJ25 injectors.

awesome, i totally forgot about that, but i recall you mentioning that before. excellent idea. i can drop a transmission so fast that it does not make sense to pull the motor.

if you're talking about installing r180's for the front and rear, yes that's been done before. don't know on the lockers, but post back if you find out.

i'm going to swap transmissions in my 97 legacy Lsi. only person i've talked to that used a trans jack only used one of those trans mission jack adapters for a jack and he said it sucked for a subaru transmission, couldn't get it to work right. anyone else with any experience using a trans jack?

i'm going to install an EJ25 intake manifold on an EJ18. YES, i know it doesn't "fit" blah, blah blah, i'll take care of all that. i have one question. if i did that, which fuel injectors should i use? i'll be using an EJ25 ECU, which is why i want to retain everything from the EJ25 except the long block. any comments on whether to use the EJ25 or EJ18 injectors? seems to me it would be best to keep everything from the EJ25.

true, few things are original, but he's just talking about being quirky and a little off beat. not many USE the boxer style engine, so that they do is a bit different...different, not new or original or "first", just different that they choose to. for instance, someone has warn top hats before, like many decades ago when it was common. but that doesn't mean i wouldn't be considered quirky if i started wearing one today. i wouldn't be called "original" or "new", but quirky or goofy. DAM dave! nice call, way to represent.

i see that now...man that is some picky semantics, it's like english class....yack!

more than one doesn't mean anything. he didn't say "you're the only one", just that most people don't know the intricacies of subaru's and can distinguish amongst minor variations...you can, but most can not. even if two can or two hundred on this board for that matter, that still doesn't prove anything about hundreds of millions of people. if you don't understand his point or this thread, here's an exercise for you - go post pic's of a plain jane, stock, turbo legacy on about 10 other non-subaru boards and ask their oppinion on how unique and awesome it is, then you'll understand. i'm an aerospace engineer and there's thousands like me, does that mean it's a "rule" or general trend, or pattern that most people in america can do differential equations, navier stokes flow analysis, fourier transforms, and laplace transforms? i don't think so.

he's talking strictly cosmetic, appearances, looks, overview.

this where the XT6 steals the show, quirky, lots of functionality but still looks cool. the looks are just the beginning of the quirks. walk through junk yards that have random body parts removed, the yards that pull stuff to store in warehouses and then leave the rest outside...that really shows you what is quirky and what is not. you'll walk past tons of cars and realize how hard they are to tell apart or even what make they are. but some still stand out, missing body parts and all.

EJ22's don't have the headgasket problems the EJ25 has, that's why it hasn't been replaced. EJ22's have fewer issues than EJ25's - no headgasket problem and fewer internal block failures. i've seen more EJ25's with cracked blocks, rod knock and other internal engine failure than EJ22's. include the fact that EJ25's are far newer, or disregard any pre-1996 EJ22's and i've seen WAY more EJ25 failures. EJ22 is a great engine but has 20 less horses. and yes the clutch could be due for some maintenance. test drive it and see how it does. the pilot bearing, throw out bearing and throw out bearing clips are old and one or more would be weak by now. who knows, maybe they were replaced prior to the 115k mark? those are all replaced with a clutch job. other than that the transmissions are mostly problem free, be sure to change the fluids, keep matching tires and that's about it. shouldn't a Legacy 30th Ann Edition have the 2.5 in it? i wonder if the motor has been swapped, i thought only the very base model wagon Legacy's got the 2.2 after 1997? you location says international so if that number you quoted means kilometers your 2.5 doesn't have all that many miles on it really. you're only reducing your mileage by 60k, which isn't all that much. you'll have to do a maintenance comparison really to see if it's worth it - brakes, transmission, engine, suspension, axles, ball joints, radiator condition/flush....

+1 on new oil pump, that's the way to go. i would not any any type of sealant to the oil supply, that's a very bad idea. if price is an issue maybe someone has a known good, low mileage unit available. some over on the XT site have created a metal fitting of sorts to install inside of those ports to keep the gasket from being sucked in. one guy used muffler tape or something, the other guy is a machinist and made his own insert. i don't recommend it and i would never do that instead of just getting a new oil pump. i don't like the idea of introducing moveable, metalic parts that impede oil flow into the oil pump...particularly when it's not necessary.