idosubaru

good one. we wanted quirky huh, what's more quirky than a functional hood vent? sometimes it takes more than one try to "get it right". i actually like them better than impreza scoops, admitedly my own quirk. xt guru and while i like it on my OBS, sitting that high off an XT6 isn't my style.

that's what i was thinking. people do the EJ swaps enough that it doesn't seem to matter, they're usually just going the opposite direction. unless i find something very compelling i'm going with the EJ25 injectors.

awesome, i totally forgot about that, but i recall you mentioning that before. excellent idea. i can drop a transmission so fast that it does not make sense to pull the motor.

if you're talking about installing r180's for the front and rear, yes that's been done before. don't know on the lockers, but post back if you find out.

i'm going to swap transmissions in my 97 legacy Lsi. only person i've talked to that used a trans jack only used one of those trans mission jack adapters for a jack and he said it sucked for a subaru transmission, couldn't get it to work right. anyone else with any experience using a trans jack?

i'm going to install an EJ25 intake manifold on an EJ18. YES, i know it doesn't "fit" blah, blah blah, i'll take care of all that. i have one question. if i did that, which fuel injectors should i use? i'll be using an EJ25 ECU, which is why i want to retain everything from the EJ25 except the long block. any comments on whether to use the EJ25 or EJ18 injectors? seems to me it would be best to keep everything from the EJ25.

true, few things are original, but he's just talking about being quirky and a little off beat. not many USE the boxer style engine, so that they do is a bit different...different, not new or original or "first", just different that they choose to. for instance, someone has warn top hats before, like many decades ago when it was common. but that doesn't mean i wouldn't be considered quirky if i started wearing one today. i wouldn't be called "original" or "new", but quirky or goofy. DAM dave! nice call, way to represent.

i see that now...man that is some picky semantics, it's like english class....yack!

more than one doesn't mean anything. he didn't say "you're the only one", just that most people don't know the intricacies of subaru's and can distinguish amongst minor variations...you can, but most can not. even if two can or two hundred on this board for that matter, that still doesn't prove anything about hundreds of millions of people. if you don't understand his point or this thread, here's an exercise for you - go post pic's of a plain jane, stock, turbo legacy on about 10 other non-subaru boards and ask their oppinion on how unique and awesome it is, then you'll understand. i'm an aerospace engineer and there's thousands like me, does that mean it's a "rule" or general trend, or pattern that most people in america can do differential equations, navier stokes flow analysis, fourier transforms, and laplace transforms? i don't think so.

he's talking strictly cosmetic, appearances, looks, overview.

this where the XT6 steals the show, quirky, lots of functionality but still looks cool. the looks are just the beginning of the quirks. walk through junk yards that have random body parts removed, the yards that pull stuff to store in warehouses and then leave the rest outside...that really shows you what is quirky and what is not. you'll walk past tons of cars and realize how hard they are to tell apart or even what make they are. but some still stand out, missing body parts and all.

EJ22's don't have the headgasket problems the EJ25 has, that's why it hasn't been replaced. EJ22's have fewer issues than EJ25's - no headgasket problem and fewer internal block failures. i've seen more EJ25's with cracked blocks, rod knock and other internal engine failure than EJ22's. include the fact that EJ25's are far newer, or disregard any pre-1996 EJ22's and i've seen WAY more EJ25 failures. EJ22 is a great engine but has 20 less horses. and yes the clutch could be due for some maintenance. test drive it and see how it does. the pilot bearing, throw out bearing and throw out bearing clips are old and one or more would be weak by now. who knows, maybe they were replaced prior to the 115k mark? those are all replaced with a clutch job. other than that the transmissions are mostly problem free, be sure to change the fluids, keep matching tires and that's about it. shouldn't a Legacy 30th Ann Edition have the 2.5 in it? i wonder if the motor has been swapped, i thought only the very base model wagon Legacy's got the 2.2 after 1997? you location says international so if that number you quoted means kilometers your 2.5 doesn't have all that many miles on it really. you're only reducing your mileage by 60k, which isn't all that much. you'll have to do a maintenance comparison really to see if it's worth it - brakes, transmission, engine, suspension, axles, ball joints, radiator condition/flush....

+1 on new oil pump, that's the way to go. i would not any any type of sealant to the oil supply, that's a very bad idea. if price is an issue maybe someone has a known good, low mileage unit available. some over on the XT site have created a metal fitting of sorts to install inside of those ports to keep the gasket from being sucked in. one guy used muffler tape or something, the other guy is a machinist and made his own insert. i don't recommend it and i would never do that instead of just getting a new oil pump. i don't like the idea of introducing moveable, metalic parts that impede oil flow into the oil pump...particularly when it's not necessary.

i know you'll get it done! good luck!

the last thing i want is for you to see this thread !!!! i can see it ramping up to a "it's going to blow, you're going to die" thread shortly, just waiting. okay, seriously - he's not very interested in sharing (understatement), so can't do it.

it's been done, i know a guy who's done it.

close, but actually it's the opposite. cut off power to the duty C solenoid (just one wire) and it locks the transfer clutches. so if you go cut that one wire right now, it will be locked. you'll need to install a switch to complete the circuit for normal driving. a double pole double throw DPDT switch works best, as i also wire in an indicator light so as not to leave it on. actually before winter gets here i'm going to wire it so my hazzards come on, that way i don't accidentally leave it on. in the past i never did, i'm much more forgetful now, i left it on a couple times last year. the small light i had wasn't enough, can't see it during the day really. my XT6 is awesome with this. add the clutch type rear locking diff and my AWD Impreza feels like a RWD truck compared to the XT6 with the duty C switch.

i'm not saying it's your problem but the inhibitor switch is not bad to replace. doesn't require transmission removal. it's on the lower passengers side of the transmission, accessible from underneath. i would suspect something is causing all of these issues, but of course that's just a guess. it's easy enough to get at and see it might at least be worth a look. some of the older 4EAT's have plastic parts on the inhibitor that are easy to crack, i've seen them cracked, but never seen one that doesn't work. it's so easy to check i'd at least have a look and make sure it doesn't look broken or out of sorts.

i'm almost positive it is not. i've heard the legacy mirror wiring is there...but can't say for sure it was "brighton specific" information.

yes, you can do this, others have. you don't think a simple on/off switch would work? in one of the duty C solenoid switch threads there was discussion about making this exact type of controller you speak of, might be some good information in that thread and someone may have mentioned what type of signal and controller, etc. just for future reference the 4EAT doesn't have a center differential, it uses rear transfer clutches which are affected by duty solenoid C. good luck, hope you pull it off!

an EJ22 is the better motor choice by far. i understand you may have more XT6 parts, but for all that effort i would swap in an EJ22. that's a huge project and a lot of time and effort, i'd go ahead and make the extra effort for an EJ22. it's been done far more too, so you'd get more info from here.

i would remove the XT6 engine wiring harness. you don't really want to use the loyale harness i wouldn't think. i say that...eventhough i've ran an XT with and XT6 ECU...so they are somewhat similar, but it sounds like it could get messy. you'll need to spend some solid hours looking over loyale and xt6 wiring diagrams to see if that's really feasible and worth it. the more straight forward way is to just use all XT6 stuff in the loyale. with the engine, harness, and ECU out of the XT6, plug everything up. then start stripping the wires you don't need. you'll probably have a few wires you're not sure about, check those against the wiring diagram and ask here. once it's ready, drop it all in the loyale. we have the XT FSM's posted at the xt site. you will want all the wiring diagrams, it's a bit of a mess.

hey J, are you wanting to create your own harness or use the one from the XT6 in your loyale? what exactly are you wanting to know? it's kind of a...get in there and do it type thing. keep what you need, cut away what you don't, fabricate the rest. it's really hard to give directions on something like this, more specific questions might help.

i'd like to know the answer to this question and if you get any transmission lights or flashes coming on (like at start up - 16 flashes).

so if they're not heated all you need is the switch in the center console and a heated seat? seems some are saying the wiring is already there, though nipper said the wiring won't be there if it didn't come with them?