idosubaru

no, it'll bolt right up with no problems. final drive might be different, but i doubt it. the EJ25 went with a hydraulic clutch set up, don't think the EJ18 would have gotten that though?

reman block set should have everything needed to split the block - not much too it really. the "overall" gasket set sounds weird, never heard that terminology before, is that a head set or head gasket set?

chasing the threads in the hole with a tap and on the bolt with a die is a good idea if proper torque or breakage is a concern.

i would think a legacy sedan is a better fit than an impreza for you. they are better built, heavier and just more solid in those regards. not that impreza's really have issues, i'm just basing that on your input. many mid to late 90's impreza's have rear drums and small front brakes. so you'll be wanting to upgrade if you want better braking for towing. but that's easy enough, the drum to disk conversion is the annoying one.

like they said check the fuses and fusible links. i guess this is an EJ vehicle. on the EA series hooking up the battery the wrong way may fry the ECU. it actually blows part of the fuel pump circuit inside the ECU so everything works fine by the engine got no fuel. i got one to run one time that had this happen by hard wiring the fuel pump.

yes you will loose some ratio with the manual racks, not sure how noticeable it is or not. it's an easy job at least. a manual rack should feel nicer than a power steering rack without any fluid pressure.

Tim, i can drop one off the weekend before thanksgiving some time. you could come and get it but it's about 3 hours away from you right now.

yes, the EJ18 and EJ22 are insanely reliable.

hey, don't scare someone from a perfectly good possibility! this person probably doesn't know much about cars. i've done it and it does work. by "clearing the codes" i assume she doesn't own an OBDII scantool and will have it done somewhere else - that means she has to drive to the emissions testing station...getting past whatever mode you speak of. i've actually done this before and it works. so long as the CEL doesn't come back on before you get to the station you're golden.

i'm confused?

yeah, they're really heavy. you do not want to be needing to lift/move those very much even if you're massively in shape, athletic, adrenaline, drunk, crazy...etc. working under is the annoying part, but the transmission comes out way faster than the engine if you work from underneath. someone else uses an engine lift, through the engine bay to drop the trans. use the lift to take the load off and maneuver the trans through the space between the engine and transmission. i'd like to try a trans jack, like he mentioned and see how well that works, but haven't had the opportunity yet.

i do not know about the EJ20 but EJ18 and EJ22 intake manifolds will not bolt up to the EJ25 (none - SOHC or DOHC). as a last resort you could swap the EJ25 intake manifold wiring harness onto the EJ22 intake manifold. i believe the injectors are even interchangeable but i've never done it. exhaust is easy to deal with, no electronics. EJ22 dual port head exhaust bolts up to EJ25 (1995 and earlier EJ22's have dual port heads, 1996+ have single port and do not bolt up). EJ18's are dual port and i'm guessing they bolt right up. either way it doesn't matter, the exhaust manifolds are easily exchangeable between them all. but you might be in a pickle for an easy swap this way...because dual port heads are older and might be OBDI verses your 96 which may be OBDII...but that is all speculation on my part. something to look into. don't know how to tell the difference accept to say that OBDII you can plug in and use the OBDII scan gauge, OBDI you can not. if this was my project i'd install an EJ22 with a turbo. they are good for mild boost, will get you more horsepower, cheaper, easier install, and even better yet no head gaskets to deal with like on the EJ25.

You don't need any Subaru specific fluids in this vehicle. Some dealers use Pennzoil and oil fluids. I am not sure if they still recommend the Subaru coolant additive even after replacing the headgaskets, but your 00-02 EJ25 engine is a candidate for the additive campaign. Also - if you have a limited slip rear differential you'll want to make sure you're using the right fluids. As for plugs, the exact same NGK plugs for your engine are available at Subaru for $40 or at any local auto parts stores for $8, so no need to get those at Subaru. You may want to pick up a new set of ignition wires while you're there though. I've never used Subaru brake pads unless they came on a vehicle I bought. I've never even priced them, just assumed they are way high. If so I'd get those elsewhere as well. Subaru specific items for your vehicle - ignition wires, PCV valve, and thermostat. Those are items you don't want to get from the parts stores. YOu want to stick with Subaru's original equipment on the NGK plugs but they are available anywhere.

oh yes most definitely. i assume, like here, the impreza's you're talking about have the EJ22. excellent choice. AWD - check for torque bind (most prevalent on automatics). this is avoidable with proper care of tires and trans fluid. check the clutch on manuals of course. in the states 1997 and up are interference engines so you will not only want a new timing belt but make sure the pulleys and water pump are all in good shape. at that mileage the water needs to have been replaced by now or i would just replace it myself with the timing belt. i would plan on new timing belt, water pump, oil pump seal, and cam seals. then 200,000 miles here you come!

we can help - here is what we need - what code is the CEL giving? advanced auto parts, Autozone, and other autoparts stores will check and clear the code for you FREE. or go to subaru and pay them $50-$80 to tell you. don't fix or replace anything, just let us know what the code is. given your mileage the most common CEL would be a cylinder misfire code - which is usually just spark plugs and wires. the wires have to be Subaru wires on this engine and the plugs need to be the original NGK plugs (same plugs available at Subaru for $40 or your local auto parts store for $8). yes you can clear the CEL long enough to have the emissions tested, done that myself before. some of the above stores...autozone and advanced i'd avoid the dealer if you can, way overpriced and service isn't there (usually, there are some odd apples that are good).

this could still be an engine issue. do you have have a check engine light? when is the last time the plugs/wire were changed? does it have subaru or aftermarket wires and does it have NGK or other non-OEM plugs? and is this in your 93 impreza in the signature - so it would be an EJ18 engine right?

well it's not that i want them to think i'm coming back, but that they don't think i'm definitely NOT coming back. i know that doesn't sound like it's any different but it is to me!

usually you can tell, there's just enough difference to tell which side it is, but not enough to not make you question. so i would bet your presumption is right, if indeed it's the axle of course. you could swap sides and see if the noise "moves" with it...but that sounds like a waste of time. don't know of a for sure way, have you had any axle work/broken boots in the past, that would point to an particular axle.

are they Subaru or not Subaru axles? if they are not Subaru axles then it doesn't matter, new aftermarket axles are CRAP. i've seen brand new ones blow to pieces after one week and there's no shortage of threads on here about vibrations/problems with aftermarket axles. but of course there are other possibilities. $2,900 for a headgasket job. most dealers charges $1,100 - $1,600 for that, i would avoid whatever shop that receipt is from.

yes, lots of info on here. EJ22 will essentially drop right in, the EJ18 manifold will bolt right to it. EJ18 - usually have EGR, EJ22 is hit or miss no need to swap computers no wiring work really EJ18 has dual port heads, EJ22 post 1995 will not have dual port heads. pay attention to OBDI verses OBDII stuff, not sure your country specifics. For that matter i'm not sure other things here may differ as well. For the EJ25 you'll want to use an entire EJ25 as the EJ22 and EJ18 manifolds don't bolt up to it. you would need to swap the EJ18 or EJ22 wiring harness onto the EJ25. most EJ18's don't have a knock sensor which the EJ22's and EJ25's tend to have. guess you just won't hook it up.

do yours as soon as you can if it's the 91 in your sig. not only is mileage a concern but age for you as well. based on the many dozens i've seen myself i would be very surprised if all of your pulleys were even in "good" shape.

price around for the services you want. changing brake fluid is a good idea, but yours isn't all that old, if your pedal isn't spongey and the fluid doens't look black/brown/nasty then leave it - there are plenty of 10 and 20 year old cars that have never been flushed, many subarus actually since they typically have few brake issues. transmission "flush" means they actually push the fluid out and replace it verses just a drain and refill. they use a machine, it has nothing to do with chemicals. the idea is that a drain of the trans doesn't get all the fluid out like draining the engine oil because ATF is trapped in the torque converter, cooler, hoses, valve bodies, etc. most of us drain and refill three times with short trips in between to circulate the fluid. the prices you're being quoted are part of a sales routine only, i would shop elsewhere or ask them to be more reasonable. shopping around first and getting market prices for these services might help you get the cost reduced but at this point i wouldn't trust them. i wouldn't tell them "no" yet either, because i don't like their antics. i would tell them you're leary about this headgasket job and you'll go for the new timing belt but you'll wait to drive the car a bit and make sure it's worth dumping more money into after the headgasket job. don't give them any idea that you're going elsewhere, but that's probably what i would end up doing.

WOW, he said it!

are they subaru axles or aftermarket? as you saw i think in that other thread there are certainly many options. i'd suspect axles first, but you'd really be throwing parts at it to verify.

it's not a great deal, but not over market value either if that makes any sense. if you're looking for one you can certainly get it cheaper. probably find one and have it shipped for less than that, but that's the thing if you wanted it there's probably a hard time finding another close. though i saw two in TN (turbo for $200 nonturbo for $175).