idosubaru

JB Weld on an oil pan is a very, very bad idea. do not do it. don't listen to those that say "JB Weld is great" or even "i did it before". listen to people that have significant mechanical experience, i think they'll say something close to what i did. i'd rather use self tapping metal screws and an o-ring or gasket around the head before i'd use JB weld...but both are bad ideas. pull it, weld it and resinstall it. i would personally weld it while it's on the car....very dangerous. that would require being very careful...oil, gas and such and flushing the innards first. all in all a very bad idea. post in the parts wanted forum and mention what you have - EA81 or EA82, someone will have one.

i've already got it ready to pull through. i'll just stabilize them and separate the engine from the trans. it looks really, really close to coming out, so i bet it can come out. or maybe certain configurations will come out. it's easy to do on EA/ER stuff, they come right out.

any answer on the check engine light? i think i'd still want the plugs, wires, cap, disty, rotor to all be aired out.

i mean to ask - any check engine lights now or recently? how big was this mud puddle? i'd remove your distributor cap, get everything dry as a bone in there. i think you'll find your injectors aren't firing like GD said...and it may be due to the distributor getting wet - crank sensor being miffed.

the place i take mine says they won't. they say welding is not the proper way to fix them, they use stitch pins which they say will hold much better. they are an aluminum head specialist and do thousands of aluminum heads a year for NAPA so they do have sigificant experience. but i'm just regurgitating what they've told me. i've never pulled one apart that i've done.

i'd replace that fuel pressure diaphragm. never had to deal with them, so i'm not sure but there may be an easy way to test yours as well. i'd imagine there is. what's the history? has it sat for awhile? did it gradually crap out or quit one time? it's not bad/old gas?

I'm installing an EJ22 in my 1997 Legacy LSi that had an EJ25 w/ EGR. i have an EJ22 that came out of a 1997 Impreza OBS, it doesn't have any of the lines for the charcoal canister evaporative emissions stuff, none of the metal lines are even there, the EGR stuff isn't there and the hole in the head isn't even tapped. Not sure why it doesn't have any of that, but what would happen if I install this intake in my originally EGR equipped Legacy? i'm curious, i might try it, but know that i'll have issues to deal with. will it at least run? were there any late 90's models without EGR, this came out of a 1997 Impreza OBS.

is this SPFI? check the injector itself, is it clicking at all? can probably check resistance too. where did you check for fuel? is fuel getting past the fuel filter? i've heard of those little fuel pressure diaphragms failing, but never had it happen so i don't know what happens when they fail. but yes, i do know they can cause problems of some sort. i believe they have a vaccuum hose as well, make sure that's connected and not clogged.

there's really no way to verify whether the joint will last or not. it might last the life of the vehicle, might start making noise in 1 month, 1 year, 5 years...no way to tell. most suggest replacing it once the boot has been broken. if it was just leaking at the bands, then maybe you can reason that nothing significant got inside the joint to damage it. if it's not an original Subaru axle, that's another good reason to replace it. if it were my vehicle i'd replace the axle with an MWE axle. aftermarket axles for subaru's suck, except MWE.

sounds like you've looked and found other heads "with cracks", if they're just cracks between the valve seats then buy those. they should be fine. most heads you pull have those cracks, it's more common than not on the EA/ER engines i've worked on. it may be a good idea to fix the cracks between the valve seats on a turbo engine, just a suggestion. i have them all fixed, at least on all my personal vehicles, though i realize that's not necessary.

done this before on older generations, but have only pulled the engines on newer stuff. i tried it today on a 1997 Legacy and the front diff wouldn't clear the cross member before i ran out of room trying to yank the lump.

it sounds to me like you woudln't want to keep the air suspension - if that's the case just get an XT. you'll actually avoid headaches with an XT over a 1987.5 XT Turbo anyway - digidash, air suspension and should expand your market range a bit. 1987.5 was the last year the XT Turbo was available. 1988 - 1991 will be XT only or XT6. with all the effort and money for this kind of work i'd just get an XT6, you'll have everything you need. by the time you pay for 5 lug swap parts and do all that work, that's just not worth it. hours spent over at subarxt? awesome, good to hear you're using it!

don't need it, i found the key. that's good to know, the old dealer i used to go to knew me, this new place seems not as nice.

the 2.2 engine is available up until 2000 or so in some vehicles, i'd look for one of those, that's what i do for friends of mine.

technically yes you could do that. it would be quite a bit of work, but i think i have a better option for you - 1988-1991 XT, read on. the earlier models have a different nose, radiator supports and latching mechanism for the hood, so you would want to avoid those in my oppinion. yes it could still be done but you'd have to do some modifications there. the earlier models also have rear lights imbedded in the rear bumpers and some have lower trim levels - down to not even having a rear seat in some cases. Subaru's only 2 seater?? actually if you're wanting to do an engine swap AND get it to be as much of an XT6 as possible...then you really want to get a 1988-1991 XT. then if you like the look of the turbo, just buy a turbo hood. that would save you all the hassle of older parts, you'd probably have a better interior, and you wouldn't have to deal with the digi-dash of the XT Turbo. now once you get an XT you'd need to do a 5 lug swap. 5 lug swap parts are harder to find than XT6's though....so really what you're trying to do is far simpler to just get an XT6. there's usually a couple for sale at the XT6 site. suspension - well the XT6 comes with air suspension so you'll have to decide if you want to keep that or not. that would be a PITA to swap all the wiring, solenoids, air lines, compressor, tanks, sensors and computer in for that...no one would do that in their right mind. again...far easier to just buy an XT6. now, the XT6 suspension isn't too difficult to upgrade but you'll just want to check out our suspension info at xt6.net, do a search here, do a search there, spend some time reading and start another thread - that would take pages and pages to cover. if you want the look and modernity of the XT6 - get an XT6 or a 1988-1991 XT.

i activated you. you can thank spammers for the delay. you're activated and ready to roll. if you have any questions, you can PM or email me. and yes, we're active over there!

those prices seem through the roof to me as well. that's not what i said/meant. he said "outback", didn't mention if it was a legacy outback or impreza outback. so i listed details for both. legacy stuff will interchange with itself and impreza stuff will interchange with itself.

that looks right to me, the XT6 trans will definitely fit.

ah, nice call.

dorkus, i looked at the N-m number. as an engineer, you'd think i could at least read numbers!?

it's a dust/grease boot, it won't leak power steering fluid unless something else is wrong. just look under the car at the steering rack and you'll see the boots. if you're not sure where that is - the wheels bolt to the hubs. behind the wheels, bolted to the hubs is the tie rod end. it's at the front of the hub (towards the front of the car), bolted just behind the wheel. if you get someone to turn the steering wheel while looking under the car you'll see the tie rods moving the hubs/wheels. the tie rods come right out of the steering rack - where they come out is where you'll see the rubber dust boots. one on each side. they tear from time to time. i've seen cars run for years with cracked boots, but they should be replaced. you'll want to check the tie rods as well and if the boots are cracked on those replace them. that's the joint that bolts to the hubs and has a little rubber boot on it. if the rubber boot is cracked it should be replaced. the thing is the mechanic may try to sell you on replacing the tie rod ends while he has it apart anyway. if he's honest he should tell you ahead of time, if not they'll wait until it's apart and give you the "it's unsafe" speech. though not a tie rod, i had one unscrupulous shop make me sign a paper stating "this vehicle is not safe to drive and is a serious road hazard"....blah blah blah, it was basically a scare tactic to get a friend to pay outrageous prices. they wanted $389 - i fixed it for $18 and less than an hour of work.

here's the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76403&page=2&highlight=knock+sensor+torque

wow, different torque spec's - i pulled that 17 lb number from one of your old posts porcupine, are there different numbers for different engines??

17.4 +/- 2.1 ft*lb(f) up above is a gray line and you'll see a "search" button. this information is available with the click of a button on demand.

if anyone can look up a key code for me from the VIN, PM or email me.