idosubaru

because it is possible and is the easiest and best solution. it's a disclaimer of sorts, there are some but i can't assume people i don't know have the abilities to do this safely. maybe he knows some really good welders? farmers do stuff like this all the time, they're welding fiends, they fix what they have to whenever and wherever. the ones i know have all sorts of portable welders for their equipment.

if they're allow i think you'll be golden with the 15" wheels. i think some 15" steels won't fit. actually you may find the same brakes on both vehicles up front, so shouldn't be an issue.

i doubt it's related to the transmission. could be bad gas. a perfect engine won't run on bad gas. corroded ignition stuff - distributor cap, rotor? try the basics - check for ECU codes, check for fuel, check for spark, check to see if fuel injectors are operating, all of that is simple to check. or do a compression or leak down test - if the block tests good, then you always know you can throw another intake manifold on it, that's very easy to do.

this is the way you want to go - subaru HLA prices are through the roof. online places will have a substantial discount but you're still looking at outrageous prices. but it's all pointless - either rebuild them yourself or the better option (take it from those that have done it, like me) - order a set from mitzpah. less than $50 for an entire set, what's the question?

i'd post in the parts wanted forum, $150 sounds insanely high. i just picked up an entire impreza engine for $150 plus tax last week. these guys in canada have one for $75 (CAN): 1-506-859-1014 these guys want $125: 1-866-737-8912 there's place in the US that want $50 (US) and up.

sounds good. both are coming out, so i had to unbolt everything anyway. thanks guys, i won't bother wasting my time trying.

looks nice. from one headgasket prone motor to another, that's guts!

no i meant what i typed. the idea has been flamed before. it can be done, but if you have to ask how or i have to offer the guy tips then he shouldn't be trying it. i offered plenty of warnings "very dangerous", sholudn't do it...etc, for the reasons you're suggesting.

you'll need XT6 parts for the 5 lug. TONS of information out there and there are a number of options so again, it would take a few pages to cover it all here and we'd be covering it all over again. basically you need the XT6 stuff for the rear. the fronts you can mix and match some EJ stuff, like use EJ or XT6 front hubs, but you'll still need XT6 control arms. and no, EJ stuff is completely entirely different in the rear, so you can't use that. just look at one before asking "why", they are a totally different set up. i still think your best bet is to save and buy the perfect vehicle to start with. if it's a project car then it's going to have significant down time anyway, so just consider this time looking and saving as part of that same down time.

nah, don't have that car anymore, but i wish i did. strange thing i had 2 identical 1997 OBS (even the color). my daily driver has the EGR set up on it (unfortunately). and the other, exact same car, did not have any EGR stuff on it. bizarre, i wish i still had the vehicle to see what else was going on in the engine bay. i guess the question becomes, did any EJ OBDII vehicles not have EGR set ups, i could get a computer from one of those possibly...but i don't know of any that don't have it.

okay, sounds tight. i've done 4EAT's on older gen stuff, the EJ is definitely tighter. i'll just separate them, doesn't sound like i'm missing anything.

here's a bunch from $25-$30: 1-800-214-2472 west olive, MI 1-800-833-4645 delton, MI 1-800-833-6177 roseville, MI 1-866-946-5016 traverse city

JB Weld on an oil pan is a very, very bad idea. do not do it. don't listen to those that say "JB Weld is great" or even "i did it before". listen to people that have significant mechanical experience, i think they'll say something close to what i did. i'd rather use self tapping metal screws and an o-ring or gasket around the head before i'd use JB weld...but both are bad ideas. pull it, weld it and resinstall it. i would personally weld it while it's on the car....very dangerous. that would require being very careful...oil, gas and such and flushing the innards first. all in all a very bad idea. post in the parts wanted forum and mention what you have - EA81 or EA82, someone will have one.

i've already got it ready to pull through. i'll just stabilize them and separate the engine from the trans. it looks really, really close to coming out, so i bet it can come out. or maybe certain configurations will come out. it's easy to do on EA/ER stuff, they come right out.

any answer on the check engine light? i think i'd still want the plugs, wires, cap, disty, rotor to all be aired out.

i mean to ask - any check engine lights now or recently? how big was this mud puddle? i'd remove your distributor cap, get everything dry as a bone in there. i think you'll find your injectors aren't firing like GD said...and it may be due to the distributor getting wet - crank sensor being miffed.

the place i take mine says they won't. they say welding is not the proper way to fix them, they use stitch pins which they say will hold much better. they are an aluminum head specialist and do thousands of aluminum heads a year for NAPA so they do have sigificant experience. but i'm just regurgitating what they've told me. i've never pulled one apart that i've done.

i'd replace that fuel pressure diaphragm. never had to deal with them, so i'm not sure but there may be an easy way to test yours as well. i'd imagine there is. what's the history? has it sat for awhile? did it gradually crap out or quit one time? it's not bad/old gas?

I'm installing an EJ22 in my 1997 Legacy LSi that had an EJ25 w/ EGR. i have an EJ22 that came out of a 1997 Impreza OBS, it doesn't have any of the lines for the charcoal canister evaporative emissions stuff, none of the metal lines are even there, the EGR stuff isn't there and the hole in the head isn't even tapped. Not sure why it doesn't have any of that, but what would happen if I install this intake in my originally EGR equipped Legacy? i'm curious, i might try it, but know that i'll have issues to deal with. will it at least run? were there any late 90's models without EGR, this came out of a 1997 Impreza OBS.

is this SPFI? check the injector itself, is it clicking at all? can probably check resistance too. where did you check for fuel? is fuel getting past the fuel filter? i've heard of those little fuel pressure diaphragms failing, but never had it happen so i don't know what happens when they fail. but yes, i do know they can cause problems of some sort. i believe they have a vaccuum hose as well, make sure that's connected and not clogged.

there's really no way to verify whether the joint will last or not. it might last the life of the vehicle, might start making noise in 1 month, 1 year, 5 years...no way to tell. most suggest replacing it once the boot has been broken. if it was just leaking at the bands, then maybe you can reason that nothing significant got inside the joint to damage it. if it's not an original Subaru axle, that's another good reason to replace it. if it were my vehicle i'd replace the axle with an MWE axle. aftermarket axles for subaru's suck, except MWE.

sounds like you've looked and found other heads "with cracks", if they're just cracks between the valve seats then buy those. they should be fine. most heads you pull have those cracks, it's more common than not on the EA/ER engines i've worked on. it may be a good idea to fix the cracks between the valve seats on a turbo engine, just a suggestion. i have them all fixed, at least on all my personal vehicles, though i realize that's not necessary.

done this before on older generations, but have only pulled the engines on newer stuff. i tried it today on a 1997 Legacy and the front diff wouldn't clear the cross member before i ran out of room trying to yank the lump.

it sounds to me like you woudln't want to keep the air suspension - if that's the case just get an XT. you'll actually avoid headaches with an XT over a 1987.5 XT Turbo anyway - digidash, air suspension and should expand your market range a bit. 1987.5 was the last year the XT Turbo was available. 1988 - 1991 will be XT only or XT6. with all the effort and money for this kind of work i'd just get an XT6, you'll have everything you need. by the time you pay for 5 lug swap parts and do all that work, that's just not worth it. hours spent over at subarxt? awesome, good to hear you're using it!

don't need it, i found the key. that's good to know, the old dealer i used to go to knew me, this new place seems not as nice.