idosubaru

1995 EJ22 Legacy FWD automatic transmission: TC seal and ring seal part numbers anyone?

keep in mind the "service" department is very much geared towards "sales", they are trained, encouraged and evaluated on sales and generated sales. i'm not saying these services are bad, but certainly not necessary either. you definitely do not need that. tell them no. add your own fuel injector cleaner if you like. there is really no need for ever having this service done. you should add your own fuel injector cleaner as you see fit. if you like to be on top of maintenance and your injectors, then send them off to be professionally cleaned/rebuilt around 150k, it only costs $75 - $200 for a set of four. tell them no as well. if this is the internal screen they are talking about, then it's not even a filter, yours won't even be dirty. i've removed them with 150,000 miles on them and even then i've never seen one that needed replaced. it is not a filter and does not need replacement. it's a strainer and anything it prevents getting sucked up should come out with a fluid change. so yeah - tell them no on that too. BUT - i your transmission fluid and filter (if it has an external filter, which i think 4EAT's got after 1998), those should be changed at regular intervals - manual probably says 30k or 60k. that's not a terrible idea, but i'd personally wait until 60,000 miles for those. what does the manual call for?

1-800-562-8692 / 1-360-423-0370 $75 in Washington State 1-800-576-5231 $50 in Tennessee 1-800-640-7995 $48 in NY

i saw a junkyard was listing 97 OBW as having 3.9, but i've seen 4.11 suggested elsewhere for all manual EJ25's. this confusion comes up all the time. there's a comprehensive list for subaru manual transmissions though, just not sure where to find it. probably needs to be put in the USRM once we dig it up again, it's needed often.

i think the similarity resides only in the PCV valves - they are identical between the two, nothing else is compatible at all. the only related idea is that they are interchangeable FITMENT WISE only, in other words you can exchange engines relatively easily since the motor mounts are nearly identical in spacing and such but the electronics and everything else is a nightmare. a humorous analogy would be to say it's the same reason you can't find anything on "how similar are 350 V8's and EA series engines?".

super annoying for highway traveling. the XT6's have this "disease". the manuals run way more for the same speed compared to the autos - much quieter and nicer on the highway.

i'm replacing both the engine and transmission. in the older generation stuff it's much easier to pull them at the same time, they come right out as a lump, no need to undo extra bolts with no room and then pry/wiggle everything apart in the engine bay.

i would buy a used one from the yards, they vary rarely fail. i'd guess yours ran out of gear oil...dripped out probably and the metal overheated and chewed it up over time. buying new or rebuilt would be insane. i have one from a 1997 Legacy LSi EJ25 DOHC sedan. the yards will likely be cheaper than me, but you can contact me if you're striking out elsewhere. also put start a thread in the "parts wanted" forum here, someone else may have one.

i've never replaced a subaru inner tie rod end. do you have an FSM to look at, i would suspect it's fairly straight forward, the trucks i've seen are very simple. unthread, screw in the new one.

HOW DARE YOU!!!! that's wrong, they will both have 276x24mm front rotors. a subaru parts guy may "show" different part numbers for some reason, but they are the same size rotors. the only caveat to all of this is if your 1996 is not an outback, if it's a Legacy nonoutback, nonGT...then it'll have a smaller rotor (and single piston caliper). the next size up from the 276 is 294 which didn't show up until 2002 and these almost always require 16" wheels.

now that sounds like a plan.

yes they are all normal left hand threaded. no need to remove the inners to replace the outers. the outers have a flat spot on them for a wrench/or other tool. hold it in place while you turn the outers off.

because it is possible and is the easiest and best solution. it's a disclaimer of sorts, there are some but i can't assume people i don't know have the abilities to do this safely. maybe he knows some really good welders? farmers do stuff like this all the time, they're welding fiends, they fix what they have to whenever and wherever. the ones i know have all sorts of portable welders for their equipment.

if they're allow i think you'll be golden with the 15" wheels. i think some 15" steels won't fit. actually you may find the same brakes on both vehicles up front, so shouldn't be an issue.

i doubt it's related to the transmission. could be bad gas. a perfect engine won't run on bad gas. corroded ignition stuff - distributor cap, rotor? try the basics - check for ECU codes, check for fuel, check for spark, check to see if fuel injectors are operating, all of that is simple to check. or do a compression or leak down test - if the block tests good, then you always know you can throw another intake manifold on it, that's very easy to do.

this is the way you want to go - subaru HLA prices are through the roof. online places will have a substantial discount but you're still looking at outrageous prices. but it's all pointless - either rebuild them yourself or the better option (take it from those that have done it, like me) - order a set from mitzpah. less than $50 for an entire set, what's the question?

i'd post in the parts wanted forum, $150 sounds insanely high. i just picked up an entire impreza engine for $150 plus tax last week. these guys in canada have one for $75 (CAN): 1-506-859-1014 these guys want $125: 1-866-737-8912 there's place in the US that want $50 (US) and up.

sounds good. both are coming out, so i had to unbolt everything anyway. thanks guys, i won't bother wasting my time trying.

looks nice. from one headgasket prone motor to another, that's guts!

no i meant what i typed. the idea has been flamed before. it can be done, but if you have to ask how or i have to offer the guy tips then he shouldn't be trying it. i offered plenty of warnings "very dangerous", sholudn't do it...etc, for the reasons you're suggesting.

you'll need XT6 parts for the 5 lug. TONS of information out there and there are a number of options so again, it would take a few pages to cover it all here and we'd be covering it all over again. basically you need the XT6 stuff for the rear. the fronts you can mix and match some EJ stuff, like use EJ or XT6 front hubs, but you'll still need XT6 control arms. and no, EJ stuff is completely entirely different in the rear, so you can't use that. just look at one before asking "why", they are a totally different set up. i still think your best bet is to save and buy the perfect vehicle to start with. if it's a project car then it's going to have significant down time anyway, so just consider this time looking and saving as part of that same down time.

nah, don't have that car anymore, but i wish i did. strange thing i had 2 identical 1997 OBS (even the color). my daily driver has the EGR set up on it (unfortunately). and the other, exact same car, did not have any EGR stuff on it. bizarre, i wish i still had the vehicle to see what else was going on in the engine bay. i guess the question becomes, did any EJ OBDII vehicles not have EGR set ups, i could get a computer from one of those possibly...but i don't know of any that don't have it.

okay, sounds tight. i've done 4EAT's on older gen stuff, the EJ is definitely tighter. i'll just separate them, doesn't sound like i'm missing anything.

here's a bunch from $25-$30: 1-800-214-2472 west olive, MI 1-800-833-4645 delton, MI 1-800-833-6177 roseville, MI 1-866-946-5016 traverse city

JB Weld on an oil pan is a very, very bad idea. do not do it. don't listen to those that say "JB Weld is great" or even "i did it before". listen to people that have significant mechanical experience, i think they'll say something close to what i did. i'd rather use self tapping metal screws and an o-ring or gasket around the head before i'd use JB weld...but both are bad ideas. pull it, weld it and resinstall it. i would personally weld it while it's on the car....very dangerous. that would require being very careful...oil, gas and such and flushing the innards first. all in all a very bad idea. post in the parts wanted forum and mention what you have - EA81 or EA82, someone will have one.