idosubaru

I have heard those undocumented numbers too, but that doesn't mean they are true. believe that or listen to people that deal with subaru's every week in the shop or are consistently buying them (like me), that number is not accurate, at least not in my area. only trying to help, i value statistics and trends and am absorbed in subarus weekly. your experience with one or two vehicles is anecdotal at best. if you bought them used they may have already had the gaskets replaced. they are great vehicles, i just wouldn't (and don't) pay top dollar for them. i would drive one, but i won't have my wife driving one (96-02 anyway). for my friends and family i recommend getting something with a 2.2, a 2003+, or it's cheaper and more reliable to buy an EJ25 with blown headgaskets and have it fixed.

horrible idea. yes it can do it but it's very unsafe and irresponsible. if you're the type that likes doing irresponsible things that risk your life, the lives of others, and then gloating about it when it "goes okay", "you pulled off what others suggested was a bad idea" and you "beat the odds", then definitely start towing with your subaru. it can do it, but it's a very, very bad idea. it's highly unsafe and not nearly up to the task. brakes will be very, very weak and too much weight. have a dedicated vehicle for towing only, it'll be less costly in the long run anyway. if you can't afford to do that, then don't sell the isuzu.

sweet. i'll leave the bumper, like you said it doesn't really set it apart. awesome, photo shop assistance! i'll take you up on that hotdog!

rip off. way too many miles for that high of a price. you can get a nice low mileage 1999 SUS sedan (much rarer, harder to find and higher priced that wagons) subaru wagons are a dime a dozen. SUS run about $5,000 - $6,000 being rare and far more desirable. wagons should be $3,000-$4,000. i'd make sure to get one with new headgaskets if you're paying top dollar like that. you realize the heagasket issues these things have right?

i already have a set, but i like the bigger wheels better, i'll probably go with a set of Forester XT Turbo wheels i have.

the picture won't load for me. i'm guessing it's either a late model EJ engine (like 1999), in which case the spark plugs enter through the valve covers on the side, not from the top. if you can keep your current intake manifold or at least the wiring harness your ECU and TCU will not have any problems.

keep an eye on the weather, let it make the decision for you and make your decision a few hours before you leave and you'll be golden. do not decide now. i know i'm from maryland but the same basic principles apply out here in the mountains as well (eventhough you laugh at them), but i've been in western CO before as well.

woo hoo! i already got the hood with scoop and trunk with wing. so all i need is a front outback bumper and paint. my LSi is brown, i wonder if I could just paint the top or bottom? probably a bad idea, i'm not good at making things look good. i'll get some oppinions on that once it's ready to paint.

i don't think the final drive has anything to do with this - i'm not sure how it works, but the LSD units do not replace any particular part that changes the final drive. don't know how it works, but i'm guessing the ring gear bolts to the LSD unit i'm sure the companies that sell the LSD units know, i'll ask them if i get to that point.

awesome, so it is just two tone paint, it's not any special moulding or plastic on the bottom. thanks!

sounds good, i'm going to convert my LSi to an SUS as much as possible, except for the suspension/ground clearance. now i need to look at one closely and see how that two tone paint job is done.

tires make a HUGE HUGE Difference. more difference than AWD/FWD. i'll take a FWD with snow tires anyday over a car with AWD and regular all seasons. if you encounter a lot of snow, get studded snows.

have you pulled the plug wires to see if everything looks okay? i'd probably read the code, note which cylinder it is and then swap wires. if the code "moves" with the wire, then you know the wire is bad. if it's cylinder 3...then you swap with cylinder 2 and the code is now on cylinder 2, then you know it's that wire that is bad. it's an easy test that's the only reason i suggest it. if the problem didn't change at all when you swapped coils then i agree, it's not likely to be a coil problem. or if you have an extra set of wires, swap them over and see if that does anything. i'm not sure how the ECU sense cylinder misfires, that's a good question. what kind of plugs did you use? did it do this before you changed wires and plugs last year?

let me guess, they are not Subaru ignition wires? this is a phenomenon of the EJ series engine (in your car) only, not all Subaru engines. if they aren't Subaru then you need to replace those first and i bet your problem goes away. if you're new to this, then i know it sounds weird but it's a "feature" of all EJ engines, they are highly sensitive to ignition wires. those of us that are very familiar with Subaru's have seen this quite often. you should also use stock NGK plugs on this motor as well, but that's probably not your problem. the one suitable aftermarket option is Magnecor and I highly recommend them, they have put considerable time and effort into designing an EJ specific wire, which is why they only offer one size for the EJ engine instead of the multiple products for every other car/engine out there. i use them exclusively, they last the life of the vehicle, i've used one set on two different vehicles before.

that's what it seems like, because i don't see any mention of various final drives when looking at LSD conversions. but never taken one apart before so i'm not sure how it works. from pictures i looked at, it seemed like the LSD units replace part #2, but maybe i was looking at it wrong or the pic's had more than just the LSD specific parts in it. i recall the installation instructions mentioning punching out part #10, that pin.

i could just paint my Legacy LSi two tone and it would look like an SUS except for the ground clearance?? anyone know if the SUS has some kind of molding or "cladding" like hocrest said? i need to find one to look at. i think the front bumper is different two, but i could probably install one on my LSi?

Is the SUS paint difference just a two tone paint? In other words the doors and trim are identical to other Legacy's, other than the two tone? What other options did the SUS get that others did not. I like the look of the SUS but am I smoking crack, it's just the two tone paint making the difference between the SUS and Legacy GT's or LSi's? i searched around the various website and didn't really find much.

they are available. CUSCO, Phantom Grip, ebay...etc....

if that's the case, i have one of these i can sell you. are you sure about that? i just checked and it looks like the 1997 LSi auto AWD should be a 4.11 final drive. i think his will be 4.44 (his probably came with 16" wheels, where the 97 LSi i think comes with 15").

yep front differential. in my Subaru parts catalog it's listed as a "Case-Diff". will this part have teeth on it? what i want to do is install an EJ style LSD front diff into my XT6 - from what i'm getting from subaru it should work, but i'm not sure why the final drive isn't an issue with the part numbers. the XT6 automatic is a 3.7 final drive, none of the EJ's are. maybe this part doesn't have the teeth on it? i've never taken a diff apart before so i do not know the intricacies of them.

???? your name is nipper, the world is round....he didn't mention anything about lights, only that the battery shows corrossion.

they will probably argue that everything is working but sounds to me like the battery is the culprit, it's likely a tiny leakage. maybe you can find some battery sites/info on line and take that in with you, and probably much better info than i can give you. i've seen others have terminals get corroded badly and replacing the battery fixes it, but i've seen them last a long time while doing that too, just needed frequent cleaning...like when the vehicle wouldn't start anymore. pour coke on it, remove and clean, etc. would be annoying keeping an eye on it and cleaning it all the time on a new vehicle. and it can't do your cables any favors in the long run.

hey no poking fun, are you joking? anyway, yeah that's exactly right, the center diff can lock up. if it's bad enough you can run it in FWD or RWD like that.

06? for that hefty price tag i'd make subaru deal with it, a warranty was paid for, get something out of it. otherwise have the alt tested...lots of places do it for free. next step, get a new battery and clean everything up.

if that trans has torque bind, you could convert it to RWD or FWD and not do anything!