idosubaru

With some more information i'm definitely interested. I've been thinking of getting a scanner, so this is good timing for me.

great good to know McBrat! i'll check my OBS and LSi for the wiring.

is there a way to convert? if you don't have it, is the wiring there for it? my guess is no? are heated seats typically leather, cloth or both? seems it would be leather only.

check all the linkages and check the inhibitor switch on the passengers side of the transmission. it's the elecrical device that the linkage attaches to on the passengers side of the transmission. don't know if it's all 4EAT's, but all that i've taken notice of even have some plastic parts that can crack rather easily. check that and make sure it's not just an alignment or broken inhibitor switch issue.

hmmm, it was a long shot but would have been cool for you to get it versus someone else. so long as you retain your intake manifold i don't think you'll have a problem installing another year EJ25. i don't think the EJ22 and EJ25 intakes swap so you can't do it that simply.

probably not, but depends what it is too. could be ball joints or wheel bearings too.

it shouldn't matter. this of course assumes that the drivers side cam was EXACTLY perfect the first time you did it...if that's the case, then just install the passengers side correctly this time. which is nice the passengers side is easy. what you'll want to do it get the flywheel marks lined up so that the cams are both pointing down...they sholud both point the same way since that's how you incorrectly installed them in the first place. with both down....the drivers side is correct, the passengers side needs to come off, then line it up (noon 12 oclock) and it'll be right. remember - the marks have to be on the exact right tooth, you can't be off. double check your drivers side while you're in there taking the passengers side off.

i'd start counting the revolutions like i mentioned earlier. or try the tip above about locking the transfer clutches. do not wait for trans info, like i said, i've seen it time and time again and it's very difficult to get exact ratios on the automatics. i'm surprised that after all of these issues you haven't just gotten the exact right transmission. for the cost of 5 transmissions and all that work it seems like you could buy whatever you want. another easy way out of this mess is to swap to a manual transmission. then you have no electronics or TCU's to deal with.

not sure, i want to say it will, but i can't recall when the quit putting the EGR on. i think they quit at some point. is this car from a dealer? that would be funny if it was the same one i was looking at.

yep, you assumed right dave. i explained in graphic detail on the XT boards, so check there. i am guessing this is the problem as well.

i'm not sure what you mean. yours is probably a 4.44 gear ratio - so your rear differential is probably a 4.44. you'll likely need a 4.11. but....again, you've done this "8 times" you said? with the same transmission, different transmission, different rear differentials? i don't know if anyone is going to come up with the final drive for you just based on the part numbers, i've seen others try to do that and not get anywhere.

you've replaced the transmission EIGHT TIMES? that's jacked up. remove the front differential drain plug and count the teeth on the gear. over here that would be a bad swap - the 99 and up transmissions have some major design differences and there could easily be differences between a 2000 and 1996 transmission. over here a 2000 transmission will have a spin on oil filter, the 1996 will not. you may be dealing with wiring issues, more on that later. jack up the rear of the vehicle and turn the rear wheel. count how many times the driveshaft turns for each turn of the wheel. 41 turns of one to 10 turns of the other gives you a 4.11 gear ration. 44 turns of one to 10 turns of the other gives you a 4.44. i would imagine those are your two options 4.44 or 4.11 i wouldn't waste my time trying to find the gear ratio out, just start counting like i said about. automatic transmissions do not have a lot of information out there about final drive ratios, it's asked all the time on here and it's even tough to get answers here in the states. i would not assume that what we got here is identical to what you got there, so it becomes even worse for you. i'd start counting to be sure. also check the duty C and FWD circuitry, you may be mixing and matching transmissions with different wiring. you should be able to do some basic wiring/circuitry testing - continuity and the like to make sure your duty C and FWD switch wiring is the same.

get the 99 2.2 and get the exhaust header as well. what you'll really want to make sure of is that the EGR systems are identical, it will either have it or not have it. if the 99 in the forester has EGR, you'll want to make sure the 2.2 has it as well. did you pick that forester up from a dealer? i was looking at one up that way, they never called back. maybe it's because you got it!

just make sure you take note of exactly how it routes and mounts before removing your old one. once you remove it, you can't "double check" any more. you'd be surprised at how quickly a "simple" looking set up can look complicated when you know longer have something to look at. check the routing, check the connections at the ends, and take pictures if you have to.

do not worry about TDC and such. the endwrench articles for the DOHC...and SOHC for that matter, EJ25 are dead on. exact, spot on. it's very simple, follow those directions and line up the cams like it says. i can't recall specifics from memory, but it is very simple and straight forward...of course i've done a billion subaru's. make sure the cam pulley marks are lined up. if they are, then everything is where it needs to be. if yo'ure not looking at the marks on the old belt then no need to read this, it may confuse you. if the marks on the OLD timing belt are not lining up with everything, then rotate the engine a few times, but really you don't need the old timing belt to line up perfectly before removal, though i suppose it's a warm fuzzy for removing it. when the cams and crank are all lined up and you install the timing belt, the marks are all lined up, i'm sure you'v enoticed the marks on the belt itself. if you rotate the engine one time...the marks are now out of alignment. they are only "in" alignment every so-many revolutions, so don't let that concern you with the old belt. if you don't know what i'm talking about and are not looking at the marks on the old belt then ignore what i just said so i don't confuse you.

yep, check out the online parts place - like genuinesubaruparts.com, jamie is a member of this board and has fantastic service. most ABS sensors are around the $100 mark. about %20 over cost.

yes it's inernal. a friend of mine was having issues with her 99 earlier this year. she ended up having it fixed for only $1,200. i was surprised it was that cheap, but apparently someone her family knew was experience with transmissions, may have even owned a shop. they fixed it. also when i was looking into her 1999 issue i read that same thread posted above. i contacted the guy who tried the lucas tranny lube additive. he said it helped for a few years before he got rid of the car or something like that. never ended up needing to fix the trans.

sounds like the common delay in shifting problem that many 1999's have. very bizarre that the 99's have so many problems with this. what's different about the 99's that the 98's and 2000's didn't have?

also make sure yoiur emergency brake mechanism isn't what's causing the piston to freeze. you may be able to clean up, free up, and regrease the ebrake parts and have your existing caliper working again. loaded is with pads installed like he said, not sure on semi-loaded, maybe that's just hardware or one pad, just kidding. check around and price. i'd rather buy calipers and choose the pads i want unless there was a significant savings buying the loaded ones. another option is to buy a good set of used calipers and rebuild those. if yours just failed at 150k on rebuilts sounds like those rebuilts were very low quality. i've never had to replace a subaru caliper and i've had a ton of vehicles over 150k. i've rebuilt a couple as preventative maintenance between 150k-200k.

some else had cracking borla headers on his EJ engine (Andyjo i believe). got multiple replacements and they all did the same thing. as for backpressure not being an issue, that's definitely not true. keeping in mind that pricinples for turbo and non turbo differ competely. speaking of non-turbo, i don't know if "backpressure" is the right terminology but i've done enough different exhausts to know for sure that too much/too big is definitely counterproductive. running larger pipe and straight pipe all the way back is not advisable, i've done that. open it up too much and you loose low end grunt significantly. just look at any actual dyno plots of an exhaust upgrade, they gain more power but at higher RPM's and shift the entire curve. depends what kind of driving you're doing. if yo'ure racing you're living in the upper RPM range and don't care about low end. but for daily driving something like a race style set up, it's annoying. feels like a lug starting off with no power, that's no fun for daily driving. you'll want to be somewhere in between.

there already is - it's an EG33 and EZ30.in the same way the ER is an extension of the EA line, the EG and EZ series engines are extensions of the EJ models.

joost, do we know this to be true? why wouldn't the O2 and ECU compensate accordingly - keeping the air fuel ratio the same should gaurantee the proper fuel is getting in the engine right?

dont' bother with the hydraulic valve lash adjusters, just leave them, you don't need to mess with them. if you were leaving them out for months then yeah, put them in a bag of oil, otherwise leave. keep them in the same bores, don't mix anything up if you can help it. sounds like your TC didn't come out. just make sure when you go to seat the engine and torque converter bolts, you're not drawing anything together with the bolts, if you have to do that then it's not fully seated. the engine should go all the way back, seated fully with the transmission without "running into" the flexplate. if it seems like it is and you need to tigthen everything else up to draw it together, then it's not right. the potential exists for valves to interfere. but the way it's loaded with the marks lined up, it won't if it lets loose. remember, the valves don't "always" interfere, only at certain points. if the cam springs loose when you remove the belts WITH THE MARKS LINED UP properly, then it springs in a direction and distance that does not cause any interference. what you don't want to do is start randomly rotating cranks and cams...then you will reach those interference points. in which case it should feel too hard (which may be hard to notice you're first time since the cams are difficult to move anyway). the FSM is over precautious on this and for good reason. i'd find another thread or two that explains this cam rotation thing in case i didn't describe it right or something. i've done them before without issue or special tools, that's what i know for sure. actually i think they're rather easy.

the motor is a good score but probably annoying all the work to pull it in a yard and then whatever they want to charge. sad to toss a perfectly good motor though, it's likely fine. you can easily test it before installing - compression and leak down test. if the car was sideswiped though that's a very good indication the motor is fine. Definite snags: Ignition coil. Idle sensors and solenoids. MAF and knock sensor if it has it and if you're not getting the motor, yank the distributor. grab some extra fusible links if you don't have any either. they're $7-$11 a piece at the dealer. Other items: ECU if it's cheap (auto/manual doesn't matter - ECU will run fine in either). might just grab the entire intake manifold if it wants to come off. check the timing belts, maybe there's an off chance they're new. spare timing belt pulleys unless yours are good or you install new ones (which is what i recommend).

means you can probably get it for next to nothing. there are shops that can fix that. they can do amazing work if you find a shop that has done this kind of work before. they straighten crome bumpers and other metal objects all the time. i imagine they heat it somehow. i've seen some awesome work before, nearly perfect.