idosubaru

just make sure you take note of exactly how it routes and mounts before removing your old one. once you remove it, you can't "double check" any more. you'd be surprised at how quickly a "simple" looking set up can look complicated when you know longer have something to look at. check the routing, check the connections at the ends, and take pictures if you have to.

do not worry about TDC and such. the endwrench articles for the DOHC...and SOHC for that matter, EJ25 are dead on. exact, spot on. it's very simple, follow those directions and line up the cams like it says. i can't recall specifics from memory, but it is very simple and straight forward...of course i've done a billion subaru's. make sure the cam pulley marks are lined up. if they are, then everything is where it needs to be. if yo'ure not looking at the marks on the old belt then no need to read this, it may confuse you. if the marks on the OLD timing belt are not lining up with everything, then rotate the engine a few times, but really you don't need the old timing belt to line up perfectly before removal, though i suppose it's a warm fuzzy for removing it. when the cams and crank are all lined up and you install the timing belt, the marks are all lined up, i'm sure you'v enoticed the marks on the belt itself. if you rotate the engine one time...the marks are now out of alignment. they are only "in" alignment every so-many revolutions, so don't let that concern you with the old belt. if you don't know what i'm talking about and are not looking at the marks on the old belt then ignore what i just said so i don't confuse you.

yep, check out the online parts place - like genuinesubaruparts.com, jamie is a member of this board and has fantastic service. most ABS sensors are around the $100 mark. about %20 over cost.

yes it's inernal. a friend of mine was having issues with her 99 earlier this year. she ended up having it fixed for only $1,200. i was surprised it was that cheap, but apparently someone her family knew was experience with transmissions, may have even owned a shop. they fixed it. also when i was looking into her 1999 issue i read that same thread posted above. i contacted the guy who tried the lucas tranny lube additive. he said it helped for a few years before he got rid of the car or something like that. never ended up needing to fix the trans.

sounds like the common delay in shifting problem that many 1999's have. very bizarre that the 99's have so many problems with this. what's different about the 99's that the 98's and 2000's didn't have?

also make sure yoiur emergency brake mechanism isn't what's causing the piston to freeze. you may be able to clean up, free up, and regrease the ebrake parts and have your existing caliper working again. loaded is with pads installed like he said, not sure on semi-loaded, maybe that's just hardware or one pad, just kidding. check around and price. i'd rather buy calipers and choose the pads i want unless there was a significant savings buying the loaded ones. another option is to buy a good set of used calipers and rebuild those. if yours just failed at 150k on rebuilts sounds like those rebuilts were very low quality. i've never had to replace a subaru caliper and i've had a ton of vehicles over 150k. i've rebuilt a couple as preventative maintenance between 150k-200k.

some else had cracking borla headers on his EJ engine (Andyjo i believe). got multiple replacements and they all did the same thing. as for backpressure not being an issue, that's definitely not true. keeping in mind that pricinples for turbo and non turbo differ competely. speaking of non-turbo, i don't know if "backpressure" is the right terminology but i've done enough different exhausts to know for sure that too much/too big is definitely counterproductive. running larger pipe and straight pipe all the way back is not advisable, i've done that. open it up too much and you loose low end grunt significantly. just look at any actual dyno plots of an exhaust upgrade, they gain more power but at higher RPM's and shift the entire curve. depends what kind of driving you're doing. if yo'ure racing you're living in the upper RPM range and don't care about low end. but for daily driving something like a race style set up, it's annoying. feels like a lug starting off with no power, that's no fun for daily driving. you'll want to be somewhere in between.

there already is - it's an EG33 and EZ30.in the same way the ER is an extension of the EA line, the EG and EZ series engines are extensions of the EJ models.

joost, do we know this to be true? why wouldn't the O2 and ECU compensate accordingly - keeping the air fuel ratio the same should gaurantee the proper fuel is getting in the engine right?

dont' bother with the hydraulic valve lash adjusters, just leave them, you don't need to mess with them. if you were leaving them out for months then yeah, put them in a bag of oil, otherwise leave. keep them in the same bores, don't mix anything up if you can help it. sounds like your TC didn't come out. just make sure when you go to seat the engine and torque converter bolts, you're not drawing anything together with the bolts, if you have to do that then it's not fully seated. the engine should go all the way back, seated fully with the transmission without "running into" the flexplate. if it seems like it is and you need to tigthen everything else up to draw it together, then it's not right. the potential exists for valves to interfere. but the way it's loaded with the marks lined up, it won't if it lets loose. remember, the valves don't "always" interfere, only at certain points. if the cam springs loose when you remove the belts WITH THE MARKS LINED UP properly, then it springs in a direction and distance that does not cause any interference. what you don't want to do is start randomly rotating cranks and cams...then you will reach those interference points. in which case it should feel too hard (which may be hard to notice you're first time since the cams are difficult to move anyway). the FSM is over precautious on this and for good reason. i'd find another thread or two that explains this cam rotation thing in case i didn't describe it right or something. i've done them before without issue or special tools, that's what i know for sure. actually i think they're rather easy.

the motor is a good score but probably annoying all the work to pull it in a yard and then whatever they want to charge. sad to toss a perfectly good motor though, it's likely fine. you can easily test it before installing - compression and leak down test. if the car was sideswiped though that's a very good indication the motor is fine. Definite snags: Ignition coil. Idle sensors and solenoids. MAF and knock sensor if it has it and if you're not getting the motor, yank the distributor. grab some extra fusible links if you don't have any either. they're $7-$11 a piece at the dealer. Other items: ECU if it's cheap (auto/manual doesn't matter - ECU will run fine in either). might just grab the entire intake manifold if it wants to come off. check the timing belts, maybe there's an off chance they're new. spare timing belt pulleys unless yours are good or you install new ones (which is what i recommend).

means you can probably get it for next to nothing. there are shops that can fix that. they can do amazing work if you find a shop that has done this kind of work before. they straighten crome bumpers and other metal objects all the time. i imagine they heat it somehow. i've seen some awesome work before, nearly perfect.

let someone else post about the cv's, but i do see frequent posts about cv "play" that i don't think is an issue. but i'm less versed in CV's. have they ever been worked on at all? there's been a handful of people replacing rear mains only to have them leak shortly after installing them, these are guys i personally know on the board, not just random commentary - so proceed carefully and make sure you clean everything up perfectly, grease and oil it properly and set it perfectly. and yes on the metal separator plate with new gasket. where you able to yank it without pulling the converter out at all? i forgot to mention sometimes you can wire it shut as you proceed to prevent it from coming out. might want to do that now if you can.

rockford sells ujoints specifically for the XT6. i have a complete set installed in mine. dont know the part numbers but i've posted them on here and at the XT site before. they are rather steep - $20 or $30 each. easiest solution is to just get a used one. if it's the rear portion then ANY EA82 or ER27 rear half shaft will work. i probably have one i could send you...as do tons of others here on the board.

the shafts tend to have some play, in which direction are you talking? is it going towards and away from the transmission? or is it seeming to have rotational play around the shaft? that lower nut, yeah they can be annoying. you should be able to get it. get anything out of the way that you can, i've never had a problem with EJ's. i pulled a 96 and 97 legacy this year and actually got them out surprisingly fast with no issues. it think yo'ull get it after a break.

try different pads too. i've seen pads wear in a year...granted it's normally the same on both sides, but it seems like some lower end pads have a good habit of wearing very fast from what i've seen and this is across subaru and non subaru vehicles. i do vote for the capliers though as well. get everything cleaned and greased properly, no warped rotors, new pads (possibly better quality) and see what happens. i wouldn't worry unless it's recurring. i suppose there's a real off chance the piston could be sticking in the caliper bore, but that is very, very rare for a subaru. replacing the caliper would fix that.

wrong, but that's been addressed in another thread too. the actual numbers of the XT6 don't bear that out. the 0-60 times are nearly identical and the highway gas mileage is nearly identical too. that's what the numbers show and i've owned about 20 or more of these things, it's about what i've seen. the manuals "feel" faster, really mostly just in first gear, but that doesn't mean jack to a clock. at this point in age...the condition of the car and engine will be FAR more bearing on the actual "speed" of the vehicle than whether it's an auto or manual.

thread locker is not needed. the only thing you should need that for is your oil pump backing plate retaining screws. remove your oil pump and check all the screws, they often come loose. remove them and apply thread locker to those. nothing else on the engine. you'll want to check out threads about seating the torque converter in the transmission. i've posted about a dozen times about it. it is very tricky, particularly the first time, to seat the torque converter the last 1/4". there are splines in there that need to engage and line up. what's tricky is that it's hard to tell if it's seated or not. if it's not you'll essentially ruin your transmission (you'll crack the internal oil pump) when you put the engine in. otherwise everything is nuts and bolts and fairly straight forward, just make absolutely sure the torque converter is fully seated that last 1/4" before installing the engine. do it twice or 10 times if you have to be sure. it may be possible to loosen all the nuts and not even have the torque converter come out at all, but again just make sure it doesn't come out at all. like i said, play with the search feature for all kinds of tips on this.

hey, we're in the same time zone freaky!! i was talking/socializing all evening so now i'm getting a bit of work/studying done. you know.....i'm turning in right now.

NOW i really see it this time. i couldn't figure out what was left right top down. i finally see that it's looking up from underneath. maybe the nut just came off the oil pump pulley? i've seen oil starved EA/ER engines and the oil pumps do get nasty, chewed up a bit with metal pieces everywhere - so you'll know a good bit when you pull the pump. hopefully you're good.

is that an EA81? WOW - NOW i see what's going on. the pic looks so strange i thought the geared piece was just a small piece of it lying there, broken off from elsewhere. it's still semi-attached, but actually poking through the front...wowsers. interesting.

looks like it to me, so long as the XT6 rear axles fit that rear EJ diff. looks like there aren't any stub axles on the rear diff? do they just pop back in or is that a different set up?

subex won't be doing this (anytime soon at least), he was hoping there was an easy way to do it. i've never touched a diff before so i wouldn't want to do it. i have a spare transmission and was thinking i could have it rebuilt with your gears (you ship me the gears). but that's pointless as you'll want to keep your valve bodies. the price woudln't be anything spectacular, but the shop is a highly respected trans shop in my home town (where you came to my place). i imagine you can find something in your area. i may be pulling two of mine apart. i'm swapping transmissions in my XT6 and am thinking about putting an LSD in my front differential before i drop the transmission in. i haven't found any reliable LSD's i'm comfortable with but i'm almost positive EJ series front diffs interchange with the XT6 so im' still considering it. i may take an XT6 and EJ front diff apart to compare and have parts, but i'll have a shop install the LSD and make the final adjustments. if that's the case i'll definitely be finding a shop to work with and will let you know who i come up with and what the costs are.

i don't know what vehicle that is - year/make - engine and i can't tell from the pic's. don't matter though, i'm thinking exactly what you're thinking, throw an oil pump at it and see what happens. if that doesn't work, then try just installing the oil pump. my experiences with loss of oil and rod knock have all ended with breaking out the engine lift, hopefully yours didn't run dry and maybt it wasn't rod knock. what's that cogged piece in the pic? oil pump gears? looks like whatever shaft is inset inside of that gear set seized - causing it to break?

we'll just hijack subex's thread since he doesn't need it anymore! you can't find a shop around there to do it? you want 4.44 gears in an AWD automatic right? are they going in your transmission with the modified valve body?