idosubaru

let someone else post about the cv's, but i do see frequent posts about cv "play" that i don't think is an issue. but i'm less versed in CV's. have they ever been worked on at all? there's been a handful of people replacing rear mains only to have them leak shortly after installing them, these are guys i personally know on the board, not just random commentary - so proceed carefully and make sure you clean everything up perfectly, grease and oil it properly and set it perfectly. and yes on the metal separator plate with new gasket. where you able to yank it without pulling the converter out at all? i forgot to mention sometimes you can wire it shut as you proceed to prevent it from coming out. might want to do that now if you can.

rockford sells ujoints specifically for the XT6. i have a complete set installed in mine. dont know the part numbers but i've posted them on here and at the XT site before. they are rather steep - $20 or $30 each. easiest solution is to just get a used one. if it's the rear portion then ANY EA82 or ER27 rear half shaft will work. i probably have one i could send you...as do tons of others here on the board.

the shafts tend to have some play, in which direction are you talking? is it going towards and away from the transmission? or is it seeming to have rotational play around the shaft? that lower nut, yeah they can be annoying. you should be able to get it. get anything out of the way that you can, i've never had a problem with EJ's. i pulled a 96 and 97 legacy this year and actually got them out surprisingly fast with no issues. it think yo'ull get it after a break.

try different pads too. i've seen pads wear in a year...granted it's normally the same on both sides, but it seems like some lower end pads have a good habit of wearing very fast from what i've seen and this is across subaru and non subaru vehicles. i do vote for the capliers though as well. get everything cleaned and greased properly, no warped rotors, new pads (possibly better quality) and see what happens. i wouldn't worry unless it's recurring. i suppose there's a real off chance the piston could be sticking in the caliper bore, but that is very, very rare for a subaru. replacing the caliper would fix that.

wrong, but that's been addressed in another thread too. the actual numbers of the XT6 don't bear that out. the 0-60 times are nearly identical and the highway gas mileage is nearly identical too. that's what the numbers show and i've owned about 20 or more of these things, it's about what i've seen. the manuals "feel" faster, really mostly just in first gear, but that doesn't mean jack to a clock. at this point in age...the condition of the car and engine will be FAR more bearing on the actual "speed" of the vehicle than whether it's an auto or manual.

thread locker is not needed. the only thing you should need that for is your oil pump backing plate retaining screws. remove your oil pump and check all the screws, they often come loose. remove them and apply thread locker to those. nothing else on the engine. you'll want to check out threads about seating the torque converter in the transmission. i've posted about a dozen times about it. it is very tricky, particularly the first time, to seat the torque converter the last 1/4". there are splines in there that need to engage and line up. what's tricky is that it's hard to tell if it's seated or not. if it's not you'll essentially ruin your transmission (you'll crack the internal oil pump) when you put the engine in. otherwise everything is nuts and bolts and fairly straight forward, just make absolutely sure the torque converter is fully seated that last 1/4" before installing the engine. do it twice or 10 times if you have to be sure. it may be possible to loosen all the nuts and not even have the torque converter come out at all, but again just make sure it doesn't come out at all. like i said, play with the search feature for all kinds of tips on this.

hey, we're in the same time zone freaky!! i was talking/socializing all evening so now i'm getting a bit of work/studying done. you know.....i'm turning in right now.

NOW i really see it this time. i couldn't figure out what was left right top down. i finally see that it's looking up from underneath. maybe the nut just came off the oil pump pulley? i've seen oil starved EA/ER engines and the oil pumps do get nasty, chewed up a bit with metal pieces everywhere - so you'll know a good bit when you pull the pump. hopefully you're good.

is that an EA81? WOW - NOW i see what's going on. the pic looks so strange i thought the geared piece was just a small piece of it lying there, broken off from elsewhere. it's still semi-attached, but actually poking through the front...wowsers. interesting.

looks like it to me, so long as the XT6 rear axles fit that rear EJ diff. looks like there aren't any stub axles on the rear diff? do they just pop back in or is that a different set up?

subex won't be doing this (anytime soon at least), he was hoping there was an easy way to do it. i've never touched a diff before so i wouldn't want to do it. i have a spare transmission and was thinking i could have it rebuilt with your gears (you ship me the gears). but that's pointless as you'll want to keep your valve bodies. the price woudln't be anything spectacular, but the shop is a highly respected trans shop in my home town (where you came to my place). i imagine you can find something in your area. i may be pulling two of mine apart. i'm swapping transmissions in my XT6 and am thinking about putting an LSD in my front differential before i drop the transmission in. i haven't found any reliable LSD's i'm comfortable with but i'm almost positive EJ series front diffs interchange with the XT6 so im' still considering it. i may take an XT6 and EJ front diff apart to compare and have parts, but i'll have a shop install the LSD and make the final adjustments. if that's the case i'll definitely be finding a shop to work with and will let you know who i come up with and what the costs are.

i don't know what vehicle that is - year/make - engine and i can't tell from the pic's. don't matter though, i'm thinking exactly what you're thinking, throw an oil pump at it and see what happens. if that doesn't work, then try just installing the oil pump. my experiences with loss of oil and rod knock have all ended with breaking out the engine lift, hopefully yours didn't run dry and maybt it wasn't rod knock. what's that cogged piece in the pic? oil pump gears? looks like whatever shaft is inset inside of that gear set seized - causing it to break?

we'll just hijack subex's thread since he doesn't need it anymore! you can't find a shop around there to do it? you want 4.44 gears in an AWD automatic right? are they going in your transmission with the modified valve body?

crooks don't screw everyone they come into contact with. people in general don't, they don't work that way. it doesn't take much for someone to start making excuses or justifying. that you had a good experience is anecdotal. point soobme to this thread and let him respond. that will give him a chance to clarify his side of the story. wow, that would fire me up too. i'd search around or ask the moderators, there may be a proper way to address this issue. if he hosed you, he shouldn't be allowed to make transactions on here. did you give him a bad mark on the Itrader notification?

leave everything and deal with it when the motor is out. assemble all you can out of the car, then drop it back in. if you want to get real tricky you can leave the intake manifold all hooked up, remove it from the engine, prop it up and out of the way, yank the motor, then drop it back in. saves a disconnecting a few electricals and hoses, but really doesn't save any time. i don't really recommend it, but it can be done.

belts and water pumps can usually be had for chump change, i'd get a kit on ebay that includes the entire timing belt set - belts and all new pulleys/tensioners. if you do that, keep the engine from overheating and running out of oil i can nearly gaurantee this motor will make 200,000 miles with ease...probably far more. those entire kits can be had for $80 or something. i've gotten water pumps under $10 on places like rockauto.com. thing is, even if you get a new used car, you'll still need to attend to maintenance items...like timing belts. if everything is in good condition on your loyale it is certainly worth it. hopefully he'll let you find the parts and hopefully save a hundred bucks. if you were close to me i'd freaking do it for you for less, it's a very easy job. while yo'ure in there it's a good idea to replace the 2 cam seals, crank seal and reseal the oil pump. sounds like alot but it's all sitting right behind the belt, so it's very easy once the belt is off. if you do this job then your $3 cam seal starts to leak you've got to pay those hundreds of dollars again in labor to remove the timing belts and get to that $3 seal.

agreed - welcome baltimore dude. i'm from westminster, MD.

i didn't have time to read through everything, getting ready to leave. keep in mind that dirty or loose terminals will cause what seems like starter problems. the starter draws a ton of current, weak or dirty connections at the battery terminals will cause issues similar to a weak starter. clean the terminals and make sure they are tight first. have the battery tested. most of the larger chain stores (advanced/auto zone) have free battery, alternator and starter testing, that's a great place to start. subaru starters are cake to replace. it's on top of the transmission on the drivers side, under your brake master cylinder (under the reservoir that holds the brake fluid), bolted to the transmission. tends to be just a tad tight under there, but in all reality they are very simple to remove. gotta split, good luck

not necessary to drain coolant, but it's nice. it's cleaner and when you start disassembling you could possibly have coolant drain down into your heads and into the cylinders, not a big deal either but avoidable. special tools are not necessary. directions are on here, basically line up all the timing marks and remove the belt. if the drivers side snaps (it probably will), it will be benign. move it back in place and reinstall the belts, i'ts very easy without any special tools. the Subaru manuals are much better than the haynes, there's no comparison really.

no way that would work. there are very similar but the electronics are going to be all sorts of different, speed sensors are different, TCU is different...etc. your GL10 rear transfer clutches would be very weak too. final drive would be way off as well. your transmission won't have the same bellhousing bolt either, so you'd need some kind of adapter made or something. basically a ton of issues and work, much simpler to get the right trans.

you can tell by popping the hood and looking if the headgaskets have been replaced. where the headgasket sticks out of the block you can tell if it's one piece or mulit-layer just by looking at it. the last two legacy's i bought (both 1997's) both had new headgaskets on them and i didn't know until i went to pick them up. price seems good.

this is a great lesson in life and organizations. if they're asking the wrong question it's hard to find the right answer. the question isn't "where is the leak", it's "why is the fluid dropping". have they carefully inspected all the pads, i would think a brake shop would? a sticking caliper will wear the pads faster, which pushes the piston out and reduces (not looses) the amount of fluid showing in the reservoir. of course there's still the possibility that it's loosing it. what work have you had done to the vehicle in the past? list any other work that's been done that you can think of (not tune-ups).

the SUS and OBW front bumpers look identical but do not cross reference. is that just because of color? obviously OBW front bumpers are much easier to find than SUS. are all SUS front bumpers the same color? is the bottom color of the "two tone" always the same across the different colors? and same question for OBW?

i do not think this is torque bind. it is either a bad bushing (like the differential mount), or the driveshaft like John said. crawl under the vehicle and grab the differential and drive shaft and try to shake each of them. if there is play in either one, this could be your problem. of the soobs i've worked on "clunking in the rear" usually ends up being rear differential bushings. dropping the rear differentail and driveshaft would help diagnose as well, then you can inspect any bushings and the driveshaft.

that doesn't mean much. first edmunds is typically regarded as more accurate. and second, us that are in subaru-specific market almost daily are offering you more real world advice. i just looked up "Subaru" in my local classifieds market and the FIRST ONE on the page is a 1997 Outback wagon with 155k for $3,800. like i said - a dime a dozen around here. your market could be worse, i do not know what subaru's are like around you. you'll either pay more or have to expand your search area for a better deal. i personally would rather find a better vehicle further away and fly/drive it or ship it for a few hundred bucks(i've done both).