idosubaru

let me guess, they are not Subaru ignition wires? this is a phenomenon of the EJ series engine (in your car) only, not all Subaru engines. if they aren't Subaru then you need to replace those first and i bet your problem goes away. if you're new to this, then i know it sounds weird but it's a "feature" of all EJ engines, they are highly sensitive to ignition wires. those of us that are very familiar with Subaru's have seen this quite often. you should also use stock NGK plugs on this motor as well, but that's probably not your problem. the one suitable aftermarket option is Magnecor and I highly recommend them, they have put considerable time and effort into designing an EJ specific wire, which is why they only offer one size for the EJ engine instead of the multiple products for every other car/engine out there. i use them exclusively, they last the life of the vehicle, i've used one set on two different vehicles before.

that's what it seems like, because i don't see any mention of various final drives when looking at LSD conversions. but never taken one apart before so i'm not sure how it works. from pictures i looked at, it seemed like the LSD units replace part #2, but maybe i was looking at it wrong or the pic's had more than just the LSD specific parts in it. i recall the installation instructions mentioning punching out part #10, that pin.

i could just paint my Legacy LSi two tone and it would look like an SUS except for the ground clearance?? anyone know if the SUS has some kind of molding or "cladding" like hocrest said? i need to find one to look at. i think the front bumper is different two, but i could probably install one on my LSi?

Is the SUS paint difference just a two tone paint? In other words the doors and trim are identical to other Legacy's, other than the two tone? What other options did the SUS get that others did not. I like the look of the SUS but am I smoking crack, it's just the two tone paint making the difference between the SUS and Legacy GT's or LSi's? i searched around the various website and didn't really find much.

they are available. CUSCO, Phantom Grip, ebay...etc....

if that's the case, i have one of these i can sell you. are you sure about that? i just checked and it looks like the 1997 LSi auto AWD should be a 4.11 final drive. i think his will be 4.44 (his probably came with 16" wheels, where the 97 LSi i think comes with 15").

yep front differential. in my Subaru parts catalog it's listed as a "Case-Diff". will this part have teeth on it? what i want to do is install an EJ style LSD front diff into my XT6 - from what i'm getting from subaru it should work, but i'm not sure why the final drive isn't an issue with the part numbers. the XT6 automatic is a 3.7 final drive, none of the EJ's are. maybe this part doesn't have the teeth on it? i've never taken a diff apart before so i do not know the intricacies of them.

???? your name is nipper, the world is round....he didn't mention anything about lights, only that the battery shows corrossion.

they will probably argue that everything is working but sounds to me like the battery is the culprit, it's likely a tiny leakage. maybe you can find some battery sites/info on line and take that in with you, and probably much better info than i can give you. i've seen others have terminals get corroded badly and replacing the battery fixes it, but i've seen them last a long time while doing that too, just needed frequent cleaning...like when the vehicle wouldn't start anymore. pour coke on it, remove and clean, etc. would be annoying keeping an eye on it and cleaning it all the time on a new vehicle. and it can't do your cables any favors in the long run.

hey no poking fun, are you joking? anyway, yeah that's exactly right, the center diff can lock up. if it's bad enough you can run it in FWD or RWD like that.

06? for that hefty price tag i'd make subaru deal with it, a warranty was paid for, get something out of it. otherwise have the alt tested...lots of places do it for free. next step, get a new battery and clean everything up.

if that trans has torque bind, you could convert it to RWD or FWD and not do anything!

search for "final drive" or "gear ratio" and you should find the charts, there are rather explicit lists out there for manual trans stuff, very easy to find. the auto trans now that's much harder. seems the final drive is closely related to what engine is in the car and whether it's manual/automatic. i would guess the legacy will be a 3.9 and the impreza OBS will be a 4.11. but i am not sure. but no matter, just swap the rears as well, that little bit difference won't matter. or swap the front diffs if you're really ambitious and want to keep it identical.

that's what i was thinking, even if the exact EJ22ish spot isn't there i should be able to install it somewhere. i've seen people relocate stock knock sensors on EJ25's, so same difference really. i'm picking the motor up tomorrow so i'll figure something out. the NASIOC guys would know but sifting through 4 pages of flames and rediculous commentary to get an answer isn't my cup of tea.

replacing the headgaskets sounds like your best bet. replacing the headgaskets should take you to 200k. assuming it wasn't overheated really bad and driven extensively like that. dealers usually charge $1,200 - $1,500 for headgaskets, that's the going rate. clutch, timing belts, water pump could all be extra. if you're going for this, like the vehicle and want it to last more than 200,000 miles then do these as well: replace water pump, any noisey timing pulleys (at least - probably the cogged pulley will need it), and all the clutch components - pilot bearing, throw out bearing and two clips. all fairly inexpensive and easy to do while the engine is out. if you do that your chances of making 200,000 with this motor are really, really good. you can also swap an EJ22 in it's place but the dealer won't do that. that can be the cheapest option but requires some leg work and finding a shop to do it for you. all the information is here. selling your blown headgasket EJ25 can more than pay for an EJ22 depending on finding a good deal. then you're just paying labor to install. it's a plug and play affair, no wiring or computer issues to deal with if you get the right motor.

there's only a need/advantage if the controller you're using (aftermarket or ECU) has the ability to use that information. so noone knows if i can just drill and tap a hole for a knock sensor in an EJ18?

i would have asked that too if i needed to know, that's the easy part, i already have that taken care of. since i haven't gotten the motor yet, i can't look to see if it has the boss or same place as an EJ22/EJ25 for the knock sensor. i'm sure someone on here knows.

38438AA041 is the "new" XT6 center diff part number. and here is a Subaru parts response i just received: 38438aa041 suits: 96-2000 - legacy AT 02/99-03/200 - Legacy AT 03/1996-03/2000 AT Impreza 11/1996-03/2000 AT Forester Looks like XT6 and EJ stuff may be interchangeable? I wonder why they gave me that and you got a different #?

the EJ18 doesn't have a knock sensor, if you wanted to install one, couldn't you just drill the hole for an EJ22 knock sensor and tap it? the EJ18 and EJ22 being nearly identical i would imagine the "spot" on the EJ18 block is there where the EJ22 knock sensor goes?

NAPA is lame, i don't understand why people like them so much, particularly soob people? they've screwed up more parts than anywhere else and i use them as little as possible. they're expensive as balls and the return on the $ isn't very good. that they stay in business is beyond me.

i thought they were all identical? let's say a 1997 Legacy GT sedan Automatic, AWD, but i'd be curious about any EJ series as i think center diffs are interchangeable. for the XT6 it's: 38438AA010 superceded by 38438 AA041 funny you should reply m., i'm putting the XT parts catalog to work!

there's no vibrations at all? if someone else did it, then so can you (or a machine shop). the FSM also states the Ujoints aren't servicable...along with many other items on the car which I and others have done. it can be done, it's a matter of finding a shop that's either done it before or willing to try. for some it's easier to order another shaft and be done with no down time. rather than calling around, asking, finding a place that wants you to bring it in first, sourcing bearings and on and on, which requires removal and down time...etc and depending on prices in your area and the shop won't end up being any cheaper than a used one. all shops i know of charge a minimum of $45/hour with a 1 hour minimum shop charge. i would bet you're looking at 1 hour plus the cost of new bearings - so probably $100 or more. you can get a used one cheaper than that shipped to your door. no down time, calling, asking around, dropping it off, etc. the funny thing is that whether you install a new one or a used one i promise your next issue (if there is one) is with a ujoint, not the used (or new) carrier bearing.

bad luck, 20 years old, that is strange. he is rather mean to you, maybe it's just attitude, terrible two's or something? i don't think it's chassis rust related or there would be lots of cars around here needing windshields every year, so i agree with you on that one. i wonder if there's any rust under the windshield, maybe it'll be seen when it's replaced? i had my last one replaced for $160 or was it $180? i posted it on the xt6 site.

rear differentials aren't that expensive. same idea as the center bearings, they don't fail enough to warrant buying new either, which is why used ones are everywhere and can be found cheap, there's no demand. should be able to get one of those for $100 or less as well, probably like $50. be a good excuse to upgrade to a limited slip style, but that's just me! let's get more specific, are you just hearing things or do you feel any vibrations? if you feel anything i would suspect it's a ujoint, they fail more often than the carrier bearings, and there are three of them, not just one....so three times the chance of failure...or however the statisticians calculate that. okay, if you're interested in checking yourself you can crawl under and look at the driveshaft...that will probably fix it. juts kidding, if you get under there you can grab and yank on the driveshaft. sometimes a bad ujoint is detectable under the car. you'll see the metal shearing at the ujoint - it'll look like shiney metal or wearing in an area or you can feel play in the shaft that shouldn't be there. unfortunately you can't really rule out the driveshaft without removing it. the joints can also seize which makes them feel fine, no play, but they do cause noise and vibration. removing the driveshaft isn't all that difficult if you'd like to entertain doing that to see. you can probably just unbolt the carrier bearing (2 17mm bolts i believe) and drop it down. this may give you enough access to see if the bearings are noisey or rough. just spin the bearing around. on some soobs the carrier bearing and axle will drop down and just squeeze through without needing to remove the exhaust, that is nice since then it's only a 2 bolt job. not sure about yours though. the front half of the driveshaft (in front of the carrier bearing) isn't held in by anything, it just slides into the transmission, so with the carrier bearing out it has movement to slide in and out, but i don't believe it will come out all the way if it's still bolted to the rear diff. i wouldn't put a ton of pressure or leave it that way very long though as it slides through a seal where it slides into the trans. although the seal is very easy to replace, just be mindful and you won't need to.

are you sure it's not the rear differential or the ujoints in the shaft? the center carrier bearings fail so rarely that i would install a used driveshaft, even in my wifes car. and they never "fail" anyway, they always give plenty of warning so in the very unlikely event that your replacement one failed (which won't happen anyway), it wouldn't strand you or cause any problems. another low-mileage used unit can be had for under $100 rather easily and they are super easy to replace.