idosubaru

i'm almost positive the automatic 4EAT transmissions for the 88-91 XT and the XT6 are identical, can anyone confirm that? anyone know the final drive ratios, the XT6 is 3.7.

here are the facts - they are throwing parts at it and not fixing the problem - $300 later nothing is resolved. they are continuing down the same path. i'd look for a more specialized shop. this is bizarre, i've jumped my 20 year old rusted XT6's, lived down a mile of gravel and rock road, towed 18 foot trailers, slammed them through massive snow, off road, creek crossings, buried them in fields, and haven't ever had problems like this. with the exception of a bent control arm when off roading in the snow. but that was easy...swapped control arms and never got an alignment and had the car for years afterwards with perfect tire wear. hard to believe this young of a vehicle is having all these suspension issues.

dang that sounds bizarre. can you have subaru check their work since they just did this? i'd sure like to make sure the correct water pump was installed and it and the thermostat were installed properly before jumping to conclusions. can you verify coolant flowing through the radiator in anyway? i'd almost want two long hoses in a bucket. remove the passengers side radiator hose and run a long hose to the bucket and have another hose from the bucket going to the engine. that way you could visually see what's happening....if any coolant is flowing and if there are bubbles all in the coolant. the coolant either isn't flowing, it's heating up and then pushing coolant around. or it's getting exhaust gases in it from a bad head or headgasket (that is my assumption now, but surely you want to rule out easier things). why was the radiator replaced in the spring? overheating or was it leaking? did the car experience any overheating back then? it's very typical to have overheating prior to a radiator replacement. no antifreeze in the oil or oil in the overflow tank or antifreeze coming out on start up (when cold)? i'm thinking more and more about headgasket blowing exhaust gases into the coolant supply. i'd have the engine compression tested and do a leak down test. costs nothing if you have the tools. i would think subaru should do this for free if they did all those repairs at their own suggestion and it didn't fix it. very simple tests. if these all come up negative then the cooling system needs to be inspected...thermostat, water pump, radiator.

are your fans both coming on when it starts running hot? i'm going to ramble a lot, but the bottom line is that you need to find out where the coolant is going if you're loosing that much that the reservoir is empty when you open the hood. actually i'm confused...you say it only looses coolant when it overflows from the tank, but then you say there's never anything in the tank when you turn it off. if it's overflowing that should mean there's coolant in the tank. when it's "overflowing" - is it bubbling out? that typically means headgasket issues, but may just be overheating for some other reason. that it was overheating prior to the work being done says to me the work was done right, it's probably not an air bubble given that it was overheating before and you've carefully made sure to de-bubblize the thing. if it's loosing coolant that fast you should be able to tell where it's going. is there any leakage or steam at all? with the system full of antifreeze, do you see anything coming out of the exhaust at all when started WITH THE ENGINE COLD. if it is indeed loosing coolant, you should be able to find out where. did the dealership recommend this work based on the overheating/coolant loss? i'm not sure what responsibility they have but if they suggested this work based on the overheating i'd want them to rectify the situation rather than having them just make me throw hundreds of dollars unnecessarily down the toilet. forgetting the coolant loss issue...not knowing wether or not yo'ure really actually loosing coolant - my suggestions are radiator or headgasket. a 95 radiator could easily be clogged. easiest thing to do it replace it. but who wants to dump money into something not knowing if that will fix it? so you have a couple options. remove it and try to flush it out. start the car and get it up to operating temperature. then try and feel the surface of the radiator. if any part of it is cool, then you have blockages. or you could try one of those laser temperature doo-dads, they are great. or ask the shop to test it. you said someone you know has tools, maybe they have one of these laser gadgets, would make this task very simple, or maybe this is a good chance for him (or you) to buy one. they are rather handy at times. after that heads may need a peak - compression test and leak down test.

no reason for him not to take $500 - $1,000 from you. thing is they have cushion in the price of their vehicles they're selling to make up the difference...so really they're not even giving him $500. he could take $500 from you and still get them down a couple hundred, but i'd offer him a bit more for posterity anyway. i'd probably go $750-$1,000 to entice him to get it done quick.

1997 Impreza OBS EJ22 AWD Automatic. i have the EGR code (forget the code, i'll check and post again to be sure). i'm really at the end of my rope here and want it done. problem is the car shifts like A$$. it's horrific...won't downshift going up hills, it'll lug along at 14 mph up a hill until you manuall put it into 1st or 2nd. super stupid. otherwise it's fine and it's definitely EGR related because when it was first intermittent it would shift crappy until the CEL went away...but now it's always on. i replaced the EGR and gasket with a brand new Subaru OEM EGR valve. of course that did nothing. using parts from a 1996 Legacy GT i swapped out the circular diaphram thingy, the solenoid next to the EGR valve and the solenoid on the passengers side strut tower and the pressure sensor on the passengers side strut tower. they all appeared identical to the 1997 OBS original parts, still no difference. i also blew compressed air and cleaner through all the EGR lines...inake, exaust, etc. no dice. where should i start now that the EGR and gasket are new? step one i know is to double check the code.

in my market sedans are much more desirable than wagons as well. sedans are far easier to sell, wagons are a dime a dozen on ebay and locally.

okay we can help but we will be far more effective if you can answer as many of these questions as possible. remember, we can't see anything! the first and most important question is did it EVER overheat prior to having this work done? and how long between the work and the overheating? this is huge and will determine how to proceed from here. sorry to sound like a machine but i am an engineer. more very important info - who did the work? Does it loose any coolant? once it starts to get hot does the coolant in the overflow tank bubble when you turn the car off? if it started for the first time ever after the work was done then almost certainly the problem is related to the work. in this case what thermostat was used? it really needs to be a Subaru thermostat. aftermarket thermostats look like something you'd put on your lawnmower compared to the Subaru OEM thermostat, seriously i'm not exaggerating, someone posted pictures of them on here, it's almost funny. second - you have to make sure all the air bubbles are out, this is very, very common on these motors only. older subaru motors...hardly an issue at all, these newer EJ's are difficult in that regard. that's why he's mentioning it in the above post. it's not like a normal engine. and to the "search" idea, that is good, but when it comes to overheating keep in mind the EJ25 and EJ22 are completely different beasts on that issue. you'll see a lot on the EJ25 that isn't as applicable to the Ej22.

great car. if you can keep a vehicle from running out of oil and overheating this engine will last a very long time. look for torque bind. drive in tight circles (steering wheel turned all the way), slowly in a parking lot. any binding/breaking affect is bad. fixable, but a rather large expense. and yes it needs the timing belts and water pump addressed - that's a $500-$700 job at the dealer, much cheaper if you do it yourself. this year is a non-interference engine EJ22, a great motor that easily goes way over 200k without major issues. that's not a great price, so the decision will be based on your need and finances and ability to wait. you could get one in the $2,000-$3,000 range but might take a long time to find the same mileage, condition, trim levels, so it depends on your situation. try to get them down lower and compare well else is out there on autotrader.com for reference. keep the large dollar timing belt maintenance in mind, that may be why they are selling it. 120k is a major maintenance marker. my friend was in the market for one of these as of last week. asking about price on here is a bit skewed sometimes. i very rarely pay 4 digit prices for mine, except my wifes and that was still a bargain. i've bought three legacy sedans this year and paid less that what you're tyring to pay for this one, but they all needed work. i end up with a great vehicle (a 96 LSi) for under a grand, that's the way i roll and many others on here do the same. we're also "connected" in ways that mean we see really good deals more often than the average folk. all that to say, you'll see people say things like "i paid XXX for mine, or i would'nt offer more than XXX for it" and sometimes those figures are not applicable in all markets and situations. take that into account, that's why i say plug around autotrader and internet valuing sites to see what's out there for this model. private seller or dealer? either way i think they'd come down. if it's a dealer they should come down unless the subaru market is really good in your area. and if it's a dealer, demand that the 120k maintenance be done - particularly timing belts and water pump or at least supply the parts if you can do it yourself. do this AFTER you negotiate the best price you can.

yep, get a narrow tire if you're going with snow tires. narrower the better. if the snow is bad enough to warrant snow tires, don't go wider.

i've been meaning to start a new thread, there seem to be a fair number of failed front diffs. i just picked up a legacy with one. i've seen quite a few 1996 - 200X models with bad front diffs. i don't recall ever seeing any in the earlier models..which are older and tend ot have higher miles.

i don't know of any subaru engines, including all EA, ER, EG, and EJ series engines (mainstream anyway) that require head bolt replacement.

the high noise at highway speed annoys me too. i'm not that picky, but that's one thing i'm not fond of.

way too dynamic to put a number on. if you want/need it, then it's worth far more. i've seen much better deals myself on turbo legacy's. but they are rare and hard to find, don't see them very often and it has relatively low miles though it sounds like it's been some hard miles. it's only $1,500, so if you want it then get it. i'd offer less but if it's what you're looking for...legacy turbo, project car, then go for it. if you're not gung ho about a project car and money is somewhat of an issue i suggest waiting.

showing that this is not a new concept and has been around awhile. if it is apples to oranges then the reasons the XT6 trans get the same gas mileage is.....different than why the new ones do? an engine running at 1,000rpm will get different efficiency when running at 7,000. assuming that curve is continuous (which it is) logic suggests that 1,000 rpm's can make a difference, but i see your point that maybe it is negligible.

i'll be going from a 2.5 trans to a 2.2 trans, so yes i'll see a final drive difference. im' wondering if the gear ratio changes means my speedometer will read incorrectly or if that happens inside the trans?

if it's the same one he mentioned on another forum (where it took 3 or 4 pages to figure it out!)- it's an EJ22. but he said he wasn't going to get it?

YES! actually i didn't think anything of it until i read this post. i picked up a Legacy LSi that has these style headgaskets on it and they were replaced by the dealer. when i looked at it, i thought it looked a bit different but just blew it off. i just looked up when it was replaced - January of 2003. when did the "revised" headgasket come out? are the phase I and phase II stock headgaskets the same?

good call. everything still stands. i'd want a new timing belt, it's nearly due and if it was replaced around 100k the pulleys/water pump should still be addressed. you're asking the water pump and pulleys to go to 300k if you don't replace them with the next timing belt. that is risky.

the auto's weigh considerably more, that's one difference that isn't going away. don't forget to look up the track times of the auto's vs. manuals as well - you'll see some auto's recorded with slightly better or equal times. also the gear ratios are different, i think this matters as well. a manual AWD XT6 and a 4EAT AWD XT6 can both get nearly the same highway gas mileage. the auto at highway speeds will run 3,000 rpms while the manual runs nearly 4,000 at the same speed. i do not know if that makes a difference, but it sure seems like turning your engine over 750-1000 times more per minute would take more energy. in this case i think the less efficient auto is counteracted by a more highway friendly gear ratio.

awesome! you've done a 95-96 interchange? fantastic, that's exactly what i needed to know! so i'm getting that trans, one only has 80k - 90k on it. i had been plugging away on there and had found those 95's in scottdale which is really close, that's why i was wanting to know if it would work. to go with a 96 would have been much more expensive and much further away too. thanks!

fluid exchange is a great option, i'm with him. though i didn't know about the "don't use chemicals" stuff since i've only ever drain/refilled myself. another option if your a DIY type is to have a huge container full of new fluid. have the intake hose pulling fluid from it, the other side hose going into an empty bucket. crank the engine over for a very short time. it will suck the new fluid up while dumping the old fluid out. when new fluid starts coming out, turn it off and you're done. i've yet to try that, but know others that have.

OP Subex is from PA. if you were to swap it, just keep your existing intake manifold and bolt it to the old block. all the wiring is associated with the intake manifold, so keep that. people want the 2.2 because they're more reliable than the 2.5. even with new headgaskets i've seen 2.5's with bearing issues, rods coming through the block, and piston slap (possible but much more rare on the 2.2's), both of which you can find plenty of examples of on the internet/this board. 2.2's are a dime a dozen too, 2.5's are far more expensive. i have a bunch of 2.5's and i'm probably pulling a perfectly good one with new headgaskets out of my personal Legacy. i'd rather have the 2.2 in there, the reliability is worth it to me for the menial power difference. 20hp big deal, if i wanted a fast car the EJ25 wouldn't even be on the radar.

when he says "worst i have seen" that's true but misleading for new to subaru people. it's the "worst of the best". the EJ22, 2.2 is a fantastic engine. you can't get much closer to a gauranteed 200,000 mile engine. and i agree the 99 and up years are my least favorite, but they are still excellent motors. the 95-98 2.2's are much nicer in varying ways from a picky, mechanic, i work on these things all the time point of view. but for your purposes this is still a great engine. not nearly as bad as the EJ25 or many other engines/makes out there. this is a great car, great engine. the 2.2 is well known as a reliability machine. stick with the 2.2 over the 2.5, you're doing yourself a favor. it is an odd ball year, but thing is you won't likely have to replace it. and if you do you have options. if it's an automatic transmission i would bet that would have issues before the engine. the auto trans are reliable and excellent, but they are more likely to have issues than the motor in my experience. Two main items to ask about and address. when test driving, drive in very tight circles, slowly in the parking lot. if it feels like it's binding (wanting to stop/slow down), then the center diff (manual trans) or AWD clutch packs (auto trans) are problematic and you'll want them to fix it or move on. also ask about the timing belt maintenance. it should be on it's 3rd timing belt by now, there's no way to know how old it is. i'd want a new belt, new water pump and to have all the timing pulleys inspected (at least one will need replacing - most likely the cogged idler will be noisey). this is an interference engine with a 60,000 mile timing belt replacement interval. if one of those pulleys seizes or the water pump blows, that takes the timing belt and engine with it. so a thorough timing belt job is due and that typically runs $600-$800 at the dealer. The dealer should be willing to do this for you before you buy...actually i bet they've already installed the timing belt. if they have not though, i would specifically ask about the pulleys, at 180,000 miles i guarantee one needs replaced at least. if they're willing to do the water pump and timing belt for free, i'd offer to pay for a new pulley or two as needed, they are highly unlikely to include that. as far as price. don't ask here, we typically buy cars very cheap on these boards. my OBS was $3,500 a few years ago with 60,000 and i just bought a 97 impreza for a friend this year for $3,000 with 80,000 on it. thing is the OBS are harder to find than other vehicles but they are nice. my wife adores hers, she absolutely loves (as i do) that it's not a full size wagon, but very practical and functional for her. we can fit both our mountain bikes in the back. you are paying "top dollar" but if it's in great condition, is what you want and has a warranty then tear it up. you're getting a great vehicle. the 98 and earlier are nicer like he just mentioned from a picky perspective, i agree, but i think the stats are in your favor. any time you buy something with 180,000 miles on it you'd have to be a goober to think it's "like new", but this is a great pick for buying a used 180,000 mile vehicle. keep in mind the dealer should knock off some of that price. my buddy bought a truck this week for $7,000 when the "sticker price" said $10,000. they make massive bank on used vehicles, much more than new, particularly trade in like this probably is. they should easily come down $1000 - $500 if you like playing the game. stop at the library or book store and glance through a book about buying cars, previous car salesmen have good advice. thing is...play that price game FIRST - then find out about having them due the timing belt. they will include the timing belt, it is only fair given that at 180,000 miles it should have been replaced 3 times already by their own books. it's a great car, i would check it out.

HEY! that was funny. i only have manual EJ trans, no auto's and i want to convert it from AWD to FWD. jamal - i'll definitely take that 95 info, thanks a ton. no rush on it, so don't sweat it. 95 trans are all over the place, 96 are harder to find and more expensive and further away.