idosubaru

i needed one for one of my old XT6's and they could be had for $70 from the dealer, though i think the price is now in the triple digits and this part should be the same on the EA82 it might be worth a shot. there's enough good used ones around though. i got lucky, one of my XT6's had a brand new one on it, so i've kept that one on my own daily driver.

they don't have to be exactly the same but there are plenty of EA82 variations that means they are not all interchangeable either. punch in those parts numbers on an online Subaru parts site and let us know what you get.

be sure to use the Fel-Pro permatorque headgaskets, they are THE headgaskets to use on the EA82.

i wouldn't weld it, just thread a screw in there with some sealant on the threads, though that probably isn't needed anyway. the EGR fitting doesn't have any sealant.

i'd imagine the Subaru filters are an aftermarket filter - just painted for Subaru, it is unlikely that Subaru makes their own. can probably find out searching. here's a link, and i saw others, suggesting that Purolator supplies Subaru with oil filters: http://www.mindspring.com/~latvia/Other/SubaruOilFilters/Comparison.html it has a comparison and some info on there, with the conclusion being the same i've seen in other tests and repeated across many other boards - Fram's suck.

go ahead and start preparing for a head gasket, not sure why they're throwing all these parts at it. guess they haven't seen this before? and you're not the first person with a "i just bought this EJ25 and now it's overheating" post - so yeah, people ditch them with bad headgaskets. i'd be more concerned with how bad they let it overheat (knowing they were trading it in) rather than the headgasket being replaced. Subaru will not be checking and milling the heads - they will gasketslap it for sure.

this is a bad topic to start here. you'll get as many replies as people really. your best bet is to do some research on the internet or bobistheoilguy.com. or do a search. WIX or purolator for the oil filters for me. definitely avoid Fram, anything but a Fram or a rebadged Fram is fine. some say the higher quality Frams are good, i avoid them all if there willing to sell that other junk.

unfortunately this is common practice and he may have a hard time finding a good dealer. buying lots of subaru's and working on them for friends/family i see tons of paper work with bogus charges like this, thousands of dollars worth in some cases.

the 1995 heads won't be EGR unless they're from an automatic. if they're from a manual trans, they will not have EGR stuff on them.

there's nothing all that complicated about the EJ25 headgasket, but i'd have the same concerns. mistu guys working on a subaru. if you get the idea they're a stand up place and taking care of you, i'd just make sure they're using a Subaru head gasket and not something aftermarket. this is a great deal really, if you can end up with a new headgasket out of the deal, i wouldn't want to be driving an EJ25 with the original head gasket.

how are they treating you and this experience? if you can get them to do a quality head gasket job then it's a great deal. if they're being dorks about it, then it's a roll of the dice whether they'll do the job properly or not. a warranty on the head gasket work in writing would be nice. and make sure they're using the updated Subaru gasket.

every has their own oppininion - im' an MMO user (marvel mystery oil). keep in mind that post 1998 4EAT's got an external filter, i would assume that's on all 4EAT's since but am not sure. anyway, there is the possibility that your transmission has 2 "filters". the one they have always had, the internal screen that really isn't a filter. and the newer addition of a second filter that would be a screw on style similar to your engine oil filter. if their talking about the screen filter, i'd never replace that. if it has the external transmission fluid filter i would replace that every 60k no matter what the manual says about it. i certainly wouldn't leave it on there for the life of the vehicle. the diff oils likely won't need replacing then, but it's not a bad idea either. definitely have them checked at least, make sure you're not loosing any. i'd stick with OEM on this motor. though OEM is only an NGK plug that's avaiable for a buck or two at the parts store instead of $8 each at Subaru.

there's a For Sale forum here, list it there for starters.

1995 EJ22 Legacy FWD automatic transmission: TC seal and ring seal part numbers anyone?

keep in mind the "service" department is very much geared towards "sales", they are trained, encouraged and evaluated on sales and generated sales. i'm not saying these services are bad, but certainly not necessary either. you definitely do not need that. tell them no. add your own fuel injector cleaner if you like. there is really no need for ever having this service done. you should add your own fuel injector cleaner as you see fit. if you like to be on top of maintenance and your injectors, then send them off to be professionally cleaned/rebuilt around 150k, it only costs $75 - $200 for a set of four. tell them no as well. if this is the internal screen they are talking about, then it's not even a filter, yours won't even be dirty. i've removed them with 150,000 miles on them and even then i've never seen one that needed replaced. it is not a filter and does not need replacement. it's a strainer and anything it prevents getting sucked up should come out with a fluid change. so yeah - tell them no on that too. BUT - i your transmission fluid and filter (if it has an external filter, which i think 4EAT's got after 1998), those should be changed at regular intervals - manual probably says 30k or 60k. that's not a terrible idea, but i'd personally wait until 60,000 miles for those. what does the manual call for?

1-800-562-8692 / 1-360-423-0370 $75 in Washington State 1-800-576-5231 $50 in Tennessee 1-800-640-7995 $48 in NY

i saw a junkyard was listing 97 OBW as having 3.9, but i've seen 4.11 suggested elsewhere for all manual EJ25's. this confusion comes up all the time. there's a comprehensive list for subaru manual transmissions though, just not sure where to find it. probably needs to be put in the USRM once we dig it up again, it's needed often.

i think the similarity resides only in the PCV valves - they are identical between the two, nothing else is compatible at all. the only related idea is that they are interchangeable FITMENT WISE only, in other words you can exchange engines relatively easily since the motor mounts are nearly identical in spacing and such but the electronics and everything else is a nightmare. a humorous analogy would be to say it's the same reason you can't find anything on "how similar are 350 V8's and EA series engines?".

super annoying for highway traveling. the XT6's have this "disease". the manuals run way more for the same speed compared to the autos - much quieter and nicer on the highway.

i'm replacing both the engine and transmission. in the older generation stuff it's much easier to pull them at the same time, they come right out as a lump, no need to undo extra bolts with no room and then pry/wiggle everything apart in the engine bay.

i would buy a used one from the yards, they vary rarely fail. i'd guess yours ran out of gear oil...dripped out probably and the metal overheated and chewed it up over time. buying new or rebuilt would be insane. i have one from a 1997 Legacy LSi EJ25 DOHC sedan. the yards will likely be cheaper than me, but you can contact me if you're striking out elsewhere. also put start a thread in the "parts wanted" forum here, someone else may have one.

i've never replaced a subaru inner tie rod end. do you have an FSM to look at, i would suspect it's fairly straight forward, the trucks i've seen are very simple. unthread, screw in the new one.

HOW DARE YOU!!!! that's wrong, they will both have 276x24mm front rotors. a subaru parts guy may "show" different part numbers for some reason, but they are the same size rotors. the only caveat to all of this is if your 1996 is not an outback, if it's a Legacy nonoutback, nonGT...then it'll have a smaller rotor (and single piston caliper). the next size up from the 276 is 294 which didn't show up until 2002 and these almost always require 16" wheels.

now that sounds like a plan.

yes they are all normal left hand threaded. no need to remove the inners to replace the outers. the outers have a flat spot on them for a wrench/or other tool. hold it in place while you turn the outers off.