idosubaru

i know people that have driven without 5th gear for years if that helps at all. just rev that thing out, it can take it!

CCR is your only option for rebuilt, if i were installing a 2.5 i would consider it a waste of time to go with anything else. check them out. if you want to install used, install an EJ22 and avoid the same headaches you're having now, it's a drop in and plug-and-play swap with very small tips needed (all can be found here by searching). you want a used EJ25 that is likely to have the same issues you just had, bad idea. type in "head gasket" and see how many EJ25 posts come up. the EJ22's are FAR cheaper too, they're a dime a dozen...because they don't blow head gaskets all the time. they can be had for $200 around here.

CCR is your only option for rebuilt, if i were installing a 2.5 i would consider it a waste of time to go with anything else. check them out. if you want to install used, install an EJ22 and avoid the same headaches you're having now, it's a drop in and plug-and-play swap with very small tips needed (all can be found here by searching). you want a used EJ25 that is likely to have the same issues you just had, bad idea. type in "head gasket" and see how many EJ25 posts come up.

i'm not sold on that cleaning helping the head gasket issue at all. the EJ25's tend to loose bottom ends more than EJ22's as well. but this could be an artifact of the head gasket issue as well. they blow so often it's not hard to find one for sale that's already been replaced. 2 out or 3 i picked up this year already had new head gaskets on them (the other was blown). yes, other than that they are solid. the knock sensors tend to crack, no biggie. use Subaru or Magnecor ignition wires and NGK plugs only.

you're membership is all approved and ready to roll. welcome aboard and see you over there!

if the switch is in the center console it's to lock the center differential. in this case it's FTWD. if the button is on the shifter then it's PTWD and is, as you said, 2WD until you push the button, then it's in 4WD with the center diff locked. in the states the 87.5 model i mentioned earlier would be FT4WD, then earlier models would be PT4WD.

it can, yes. what is more often the case (every time i've seen it actually, i've never seen an actual failed sensor) - the sensor contacts are bad. in other words the plug that plugs into the sensor or the contacts on the sensor are corroded, dirty, etc. in worst case scenarios the corrosion gets under the wiring insulation as well. for starting conditions you also need to check the battery terminals and connections. they have to be clean and tight, not just look good from a glance, but actually be clean and tight where metal meets metal (remove and inspect).

waste of time depressurizing. have some shop towels/cloth ready and go to town. when you first pull the hose some may spray out, just protect your eyes. otherwise it's completely benign and simple.

yes, but NASIOC will likely give you more information. they are much more into building like this over there and have more information about it. from memory i'm thinking they have stickied or easy to find information about this.

if it is rod knock i'd avoid it and pay a bit more for something that runs and save all that work and cost of an engine swap. time is money they say, so i guess depends what you have the most of. at least around here it's not that hard to find a decent running and newer subaru in the $500-$1,000 range. a 2.5 will have issues here. it'll drop in and bolt up just fine, but the intake manifolds will not swap and i'm almost certain the 1991 will be OBD I and the 2.5 will be OBD II. to get it to work you'd have to attempt to swap the 1991 wiring harness onto the EJ25 intake manifold and make sure it's a 1996-1998 EJ25 to avoid bolt up hassles (bell housing change in 1999).

best bet is to swap the suspension to coil over and get rid of the air suspension. overheating, head gaskets, and turbo failure are typical problems with a 20+ year old EA82T. they also crack heads far easier than non-turbo EA82's. your best bet is to plan on putting some maintenance into it right away - new hoses, new turbo hoses and gaskets (coolant/oil), radiator check, new water pump, thermostat (subaru only), etc.

yeah check us out at the XT forum. it was originally an XT6 forum, but encompasses many XT's as well, plus the XT6 has air suspension as well so it's a very common topic over there. what you do with the suspension will greatly depend on if you're keeping the stock EA82 4 lug or swapping to 5 lug. if you keep the EA82 suspension then really any EA82 suspension swaps right over to your XT. just about any Subaru motor will fit in your XT, not counting the 6 cylinders although they may fit as well depending. the biggest help will be if yours is the 1987.5 variety XT, manufactured 1/87 or later. if it's a late 86 manufacture date but is listed as a 1987 model then you'll have less room to work with.

there's some concern as to how badly it was overheated by the prior owner, but most of the time you're go to go by just installing new headgaskets. unfortunately there's no way to verify whether the block or heads are cracked, but usually they aren't. don't replace just one, whatever caused that one to fail also stressed the other one. i tried that once, bad idea. didn't take long for the other one to go, just do them both. the FSM is the way to go, the USMB will likely be your best resource though. and they can definitely be done in the car, i recommend it myself. air tools are a big plus.

yep, this info is already here. 1995 from an automatic. or 96-98 EJ22 with exhaust header. wouldn't surprise me if a 99 EJ22 would work but i'd avoid that year it's an oddball. make sure it has EGR. i HAVE picked up identical 97 subaru's that have had EGR and not had EGR so i wouldn't count on models/years/trans to be the definitive mark. although almost all late model EJ22's have EGR. and this is not that odd, i've seen a fair number of EJ25's with internal engine issues. i would guess it's related to the head gasket problem in some way.

anyone have a picture of an EA81 hub? are the inner part, the part with the lug studs on it interchangeable with an EA82?

searching will get you the information you need. RX is the only model i'm aware of that always has LSD, other models are hit or miss though some have it more (like turbo's), again searching will help clarify but really you need to look to find out. not all turbo transmissions are the same - there's 3AT, 4EAT, FWD, and AWD, then there's dual range, single range. all of the manual trans are easily interchangeable though.

yeah it'll all swap just fine. for the outback look i think you only need to swap the struts though, that's it.

this is a bad question, it's all opinion and subjective. many people tow unsafe loads and think getting from A to B without incident proves their skill, the cars capability and that it's "safe". what kind of towing you're doing makes a difference too...how often, what kind of terrain, snow, rain, mountains, what kind of trailer...all towing is not the same.

here you go. walked out to the garage at 5am, below freezing, and loaded these over dial up, hope it was worth it!

the only good source of CV axles is Subaru or MWE (that's who i get all of mine from). MWE is far more economical typically and does top notch work.

you have to piece it together essentially - i haven't found a perfect kit. for instance i typically order a timing belt "kit" - including timing belt, tensioner, timing belt pulleys. and then order everything else separately, like the water pump. as for the parts i'd replaced on a 140k 17 year old engine: timing belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, cam seals, cam o-rings, crank seal (also the oil pump seal) and remove/reseal the oil pump. the backing plate screws on the rear of the oil pump may back out, quite common on EJ engines. remove any loose screws and reinstall them with locktite. i just did this last week, i found a timing belt "kit" and then ordered everything else from the dealer. the kit i found included the timing belt, pulleys, tensioner and water pump. it was good for EJ18 and EJ22, you could see if they have another kit available: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=220163948134 i saw two other listed for $110 (by domesticgaskets, though i think they only list it as for "EJ18") and $177 (by Timing Belt Kit Pro)

they go on dry, add nothing. what headgaskets are you using? you should use the Fel-Pro permatorque's - if it's a Fel-Pro the permatorques have "PT" in the part number. any other gasket and you'll have to follow the FSM and retorque the heads which is a real PITA and hours of extra/unecessary work.

oil on the threads will not cause them to come loose. you'll be fine.

you can look it up on the internet. i think gates, the timing belt manufacturer, has a comprehensive list that i use. calling a Ford dealer would obviously give you what you need as well.

the impreza's are definitely lighter. i have a 1997 impreza OBS. owned it from 60k - 110k so far and the only non maintenance items i've replaced are one CV axle. i've got an annoying EGR issue that causes a check engine light that is mostly an annoyance. WRX 6 dash in disk changer that also plays tapes is a nice upgrade for my wife and i. it's not a "system" but does the trick for us. no complaints really but do get an occassional bizarre clicking noise i've never identified. it's been there after the new axle was installed, swapping wheels, replaced brakes, etc. other than that i've done the timing belt, water pump stuff with it. the rear drums are not that bad, but it is a rather large job. have to swap the entire rear hubs or disassemble and get all the right parts and have to deal with the emergency brake. either get the drum cable to work on the disk or swap a disc brake cable in. rust makes the job a real PITA.