idosubaru

you might have gotten lucky but from the couple i have seen you can expect a bent valve. the damage was rather light really, replace one or two bent valves and everything else is fine otherwise. replace the belt and you'll know rather quick. someone on here will probably send you a used belt for free to try if you're not wanting to buy a new for a suspect vehicle. i may have a DOHC used timing belt lying around i could send you later next week. i've done a few Legacy GT's this year.

after sitting for 5 years...could be lots of things. carb is the first thing that pops in my head, but sounds like you're confident that is not the problem? have you tried spraying starter fluid in there while cranking? fuel filter and ignition (plugs, wires, cap rotor) come to mind. vacuum hoses are a good thing to check too. if you have a compression tester might want to see what you get.

Does it die when you're coasting or sitting still? does it do it every time or rarely? have they been able to replicate this? has the check engine light ever come on? i would assume the sticking idle and this stalling issue are related somehow. I would ask them what controls the idle and to thoroughly inspect that system. if they can replicate the problem they need to hook up vaccuum gauges and their computer for real time information. protection time - start documenting as much as you can, get paper work, record everything, make them write stuff down and give you feedback on paper, written. you want as much as you can if they keep shrugging their shoulders.

NASIOC has tons of information about swapping heads and differences, compression, etc if that's what you're looking for.

i would start by replacing the thermostat and radiator cap. unless it's relatively new the radiator will be suspect as well. after all these years there's no telling what the insides look like but it could easily have significant blockages. it could also be a slipping belt, as it drives the water pump. if you hear any squealing or have alternator/electrical issues then this may point to the belt. also the crank pulley/harmonic balancer could be slipping as well. they have a thin rubber ring in them and it can separate from the metal so the outer most part of the pulley (that the belt rides on), does not turn properly with the actual crank - therefore your water pump and other accessories won't turn as fast as they should. you should also get electrical/alternator issues with this.

exhaust work should get you there easily with maybe some small boost increases. NASIOC should have all sorts of stickies and FAQ's for this.

oh yeah, that reminds me, i forgot that i had a head off a car that was driven for a while with a bad head gasket. the head was damaged where the leak occurred. there was a divot at that point on the head where part of the metal had melted or worn away. it was repairable if you like welding and machining heads.

bad idea to drive it like this if you want to keep this engine block. heat is very bad for all parts of the engine...oil degrades, bearings and well everything is compromised. it's kind of like asking "can i live by eating chocolate only"...probably for awhile but problems will begin to mount and increase exponentially. you definitely see more internal bearing failures/issues with cars that have been previously overheated than not.

take in an old exhaust stud to an auto parts store (mom and shop places are better here, the national chains will have them but in packs of two and not as good of a selection). they will have the 10x1.25 size exhaust stud you need, you just need to take on in and size it up, i've done it a bunch of time but can tell by looking really. their computers and parts books won't show any matches, but they will have it, just go look. on some you'll just notice that the stud needs to be screwed into the engine block one way and not the other, it will be obvious once you see it. some studs have a small 1/4" section that is threadless - you'll want this side closest to the engine to leave enough room for the nut to grab all the threads...like i said, it's obvious when you get in there. they are also readily available at junkyards, they have hundreds of them, find some non-rusty ones and go to town. probably put a thread in the parts wanted section here and someone will hook you up as well. there's tons of information on these exact bolts on here, i'd spend some time searching and read to your hearts content.

sounds good. you could duplicate the marks on your other belt for future use. glad it's up and running, good job!

i think that's only for the "bearing cap", not the diff plugs.

i knew that's what you meant, i was wondering if you are sure this is absolutely true since the older ones are not like this. on those, the ECU can still sense and show proper codes on older subaru's if the ECU is getting bad input from something...even if the engine has never actually ran (motor swap, etc). what is bizarre is that if what you are saying is true it would mean that the ECU can never show a code for a non-start condition...since the engine never actually "ran" on that incident, the computer doesn't know if the engine was swapped, if the car sat overnight or for 6 months (unless it discharges of course). maybe the electrical system being discharged has something to do with it? anyway, if this is true then it can't ever show a code for a non-start condition, that sounds weird.

1 tooth off is bad.

i've never used sealant on the plugs either, i did not know you were supposed to. hmmm, talk about learning something new....that's almost funny. how in the heck do you clean the old threads out without getting debris in the diff then? that sounds annoying.

i've sheared 2 1/2" sockets and one 1/2" breaker bar, moving up to 3/4" socket wrench was an excellent decision. makes axle nuts a breeze. use a torch if yours is tight and you don't have a 3/4" set. heat the nut up for one minute and immediately attack it with your socket.

should be 32 mm. bizarre thing is that i've seen 32 and 36mm axle nuts from Subaru dealers. i've gone in to get just the axle nuts before and had them hand me a 36mm nut pulled right off the axle from vehicles that usually have 32mm nuts in my experience. so it should be a 32mm, but i have seen 36 on a couple of occassions.

the older subaru's will give a code without the engine ever running, i guess the EJ series OBDII stuff is different?

i think they can be had for $79 or $89 for the cheap ones now. i believe you can even buy adapters and software for your computer now too, don't know how much they cost though. yes, the Subaru...and all other cars on the road for the most part, have the standard OBDII port connector.

i totally dig the EJ22 as well, but i've seen plenty of low mileage EJ's with oil leaks. from what i've personally seen i haven't seen anything more than age (the EJ's being newer) probably being the main contributor to EJ's leaking less. i've seen plenty of leaking cam seals, cam o-rings, valve covers on EJ engines with well under 100k, even on late 90's EJ's. i could take a picture of a 1997 that i own that fits the bill. Subaru calls for anaerobic sealant, give that a try and see if it works better. then again it might not be the type of sealant you're using but the bead consistency, rubbing off when installing, grooves not being clean...could it be another reason they leak?

i totally dig the EJ22 as well, but i've seen plenty of low mileage EJ's with oil leaks. from what i've personally seen i haven't seen anything more than age (the EJ's being newer) probably being the main contributor to EJ's leaking less. i've seen plenty of leaking cam seals, cam o-rings, valve covers on EJ engines with well under 100k, even on late 90's EJ's. Subaru calls for anaerobic sealant, give that a try and see if it works better. then again it might not be the type of sealant you're using but the bead consistency, rubbing off when installing, grooves not being clean...could it be another reason they leak?

if you have access to an OBDII scanner, check the codes just for giggles?

how about the brake booster vaccuum hose, is that one connected properly?

yep, completely interchangeable. i have 2006 Forester XT Turbo wheels on my 1989 XT6, lots of subaru's are compatible, nearly all of them actually.

i can't think of any other way than using a couple bottles of fluid and pumping each one out one at a time.

they aren't. if they were they wouldn't be in business. they have been around for a long time, people are paying those prices and for good reason in my oppinion. doesn't seem expensive to me, not for what they do. rebuilds run $2,000 at least. it's far more than a rebuild, they redesign the heads, custom fuel supply, specially pin the blocks, have vast experience with EA stuff...and on and on and on. then all the custom oil pans, engine management and various other high expense parts that other places can not do. many of their ideas and designs are were done by them. if they had mark ups like other industries they're engine prices would be far more. this is way more than a "rebuild" if that's what you're comparing it too.